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Old 06-04-2015, 08:53 AM   #1
dwj - Donnie OP
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Leaking Clutch Master Cylinder

Hi!

My clutch master cylinder has a small leak where the lever depresses the pin going into the master cylinder. Is there a repair kit for this and a repair tutorial? I cannot find the master cylinder on the Parts Fishe. Thanks!

Donnie
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:59 AM   #2
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I think this is the part number you're looking for. It includes the piston and the seals. Good luck.

50302032000 REP.SET PISTON MAGURA D=10.5

The clutch master cylinder is located on the handlebar controls fiche.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:05 AM   #3
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Same

Mine is leaking a little as well and replacing the piston did not fix the problem. Most likely a worn bore in the cylinder.

I currently have a new cylinder on order from Magura and when it arrives I'll post a link and contact info for you. The KTM part only comes as a complete unit, lever and all and is a bit pricey.

In the mean time just keep an eye on the level in the reservoir and keep riding, which is what I'm doing.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:06 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unaweep View Post
I think this is the part number you're looking for. It includes the piston and the seals. Good luck.

50302032000 REP.SET PISTON MAGURA D=10.5

The clutch master cylinder is located on the handlebar controls fiche.

Thank you very much!

Now, if there is a Tutorial with pictures out there somewhere.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:08 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lycan1 View Post
Mine is leaking a little as well and replacing the piston did not fix the problem. Most likely a worn bore in the cylinder.

I currently have a new cylinder on order from Magura and when it arrives I'll post a link and contact info for you. The KTM part only comes as a complete unit, lever and all and is a bit pricey.

In the mean time just keep an eye on the level in the reservoir and keep riding, which is what I'm doing.
Thanks! I am currently in Mexico and will be returning to the US in a couple weeks.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:10 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
Thank you very much!

Now, if there is a Tutorial with pictures out there somewhere.

Inmate "noregretsallowed" posted this some time ago.

See here: http://www.ktmsmt.com/viewtopic.php?t=6578

Once you remove the lever and this "C" clip the white washer and piston assembly just pops out. It helps to have 3 hands when trying to push the new piston and washer in far enough to get the new clip into the nearly invisible slot.
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Lycan1 screwed with this post 06-04-2015 at 10:36 AM
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
Thank you very much!

Now, if there is a Tutorial with pictures out there somewhere.
Gosh- it's so flipping easy- you don't need a tutorial. Be sure to have plenty of clutch fluid- Magura blood or possibly some really light weight suspension oil. You will find the fluid is filthy! I strongly recommend a full flush.

I have a brain cramp right now and can't think of the proper name, but you'll need those pliers with the points on the end to remove the circlip that holds the piston in.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:14 AM   #8
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Gosh- it's so flipping easy- you don't need a tutorial. Be sure to have plenty of clutch fluid- Magura blood or possibly some really light weight suspension oil. You will find the fluid is filthy! I strongly recommend a full flush.

I have a brain cramp right now and can't think of the proper name, but you'll need those pliers with the points on the end to remove the circlip that holds the piston in.


I have the tool. I always use Baby Oil for fluid. When I did a similar repair on the brake master cylinder of a R1100GS, you lightly honed the inside piston wall before installing the new piston. Do you do the same with this?
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:17 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
I have the tool. I always use Baby Oil for fluid. When I did a similar repair on the brake master cylinder of a R1100GS, you lightly honed the inside piston wall before installing the new piston. Do you do the same with this?
I didn't. I've not heard of this practice before. How would you hone the piston wall? Or what would you do it with, I guess is the better question. I'd be afraid of removing material and causing a permanent leak!

Baby oil works, too. Hope you can find unscented.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:21 AM   #10
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I didn't. I've not heard of this practice before. How would you hone the piston wall? Or what would you do it with, I guess is the better question. I'd be afraid of removing material and causing a permanent leak!

Baby oil works, too. Hope you can find unscented.
The master cylinder on the BMW was somewhat larger, but the same brand I think. I wrapped some very fine sand paper around a small wood dowel and lightly sanded it. The cylinder wall was rough from oxidation. I removed that roughness and it worked fine.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:32 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
The master cylinder on the BMW was somewhat larger, but the same brand I think. I wrapped some very fine sand paper around a small wood dowel and lightly sanded it. The cylinder wall was rough from oxidation. I removed that roughness and it worked fine.
Good to know. Thanks.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:39 AM   #12
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I had my master resleeved because after 70k miles of use, it wasn't round anymore and a new piston still leaked. Works great now with the brass sleeve in it, and using light fork oil for fluid seems to have helped a lot as well. Used to run mineral oil in it, and Magura blood before that.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:42 AM   #13
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I had my master resleeved because after 70k miles of use, it wasn't round anymore and a new piston still leaked. Works great now with the brass sleeve in it, and using light fork oil for fluid seems to have helped a lot as well. Used to run mineral oil in it, and Magura blood before that.
Hola! I followed your RR.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:54 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by gearheadE30 View Post
I had my master resleeved because after 70k miles of use, it wasn't round anymore and a new piston still leaked. Works great now with the brass sleeve in it, and using light fork oil for fluid seems to have helped a lot as well. Used to run mineral oil in it, and Magura blood before that.
Gearhead- how'd you get it re-sleeved? I may be having a similar problem with my SE. Thanks.
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Old 06-04-2015, 02:56 PM   #15
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gefr is too polite to chime in here but he has experience of sleeving. Not much help to you right now as he's so far away.

This problem is a 'stopper' on a long trip so I urge folk to carry a spare assembly complete.

I'd also like to hear more info on re-sleeving @ 10.5mm which I think is the OEM inside diameter.
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