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Old 09-13-2012, 04:32 PM   #1
GrizzLee OP
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The iRode to Bella Coola and Back Solo Ride Report Report

This fall, I had planned a follow-up ride to Bella Coola. A trip that was to last 6 days. I did a similar trip in 2011 (see my blog post: Solo Motorcycle Adventure: Bella Coola, Gang Ranch, Chilcotin & Fraser River ). My itinerary included a great deal of travel on dirt roads (~half of my travels were on dirt, 4x4 and gravel roads). The country is like nothing here in the lower 48 states. I left my home near Seattle and traveled Wa state hwy 9 to the Canadian border (Sumas). From there, I rode up the West side of Harrison Lake to Mt Currie. I proceeded through some freshwater fjords over to the Caribou-Chilcotin Plateau through the coastal mountains to Bella Coola. The country is remote, largely undeveloped, contains no paved roads (save for Hwy 20 from Williams Lake to Bella Coola) and contains lots of wildlife. Aside from that, the scenery is absolutely breathtaking as I traveled through several climate zones from desert country to high mountains to coastal rain forest. The vistas included high desert mountains, glacier covered peaks, deep and wide canyons carved by glaciers and big rivers. I felt like I traveled back in time. The country life in the Chilcotin-Caribou plateau is simply amazing and the people are warm and friendly. I traveled on every type of road imaginable (pavement, dirt, rock, gravel, chip seal, etc..) It is the ultimate dual sport destination and a perfect test of my skills on the large BMW R1200 GS Adventure.
This is my story... my solo adventure motorcycle ride through remote lands where I camped every night except one. I had no real itinerary and a vague plan of the route of where I wanted to go.

Pictures and video coming soon.

Here is a teaser...
Many folks always comment on how clean my bike seems to stay on these trips. This video, taken on the West Harriosn FSR in B.C., demonstrates the cheapest and most effective method to wash your BMW R1200 GS Adventure in the remote backcountry. Note: Bikini optional...

http://youtu.be/71VOABkMjZQ



Enjoy...
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"Nature Sets the Boundaries; We choose to cross"
Blog: RubiKonAdventures
RR: Bella Coola 2013 / Bella Coola Canada 2012
RR: Our Life Behind Bars

GrizzLee screwed with this post 09-13-2012 at 04:35 PM Reason: embed video
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:09 AM   #2
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Day 1 (Aug 31, 2012)

Day 1 (Aug 31, 2012)

I left my house in Sammamish, Wa around 6:00 a.m.

I just had the 24K service performed on my bike and new tires not long before. I didn't quite have time to get and install all the new farkles that I wanted (such as a new skid plate, Hiedenau Scouts and other key protection) for my off road portions of the trip.

I debated with myself the advantages/disadvantages of taking my tank bag. Pros... my SLR camera was more accessible; Cons... It gets in the way when I try and man handle the big bike and gas it up. In the end, I decided that I'd take it take it. Since I was traveling solo, I would have to rely entirely on my own personal photo skills to document the trip. I also carried a Gorrilla pod to take those pics/videos of me from afar.

So here I am all loaded and ready to go. Tent, food, stove, clothes, water filter, cameras, camp chair, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, maps, bear spray, GPS, Personal Locator Beacon, camp towel, soap, tools, compressor, extra parts for minor road repairs, etc...


After the trip, there are some things I wish I hadn't brought along. I brought a lightweight camp chair, that I found to be more of a hassle than a help. Living in the PacNW, I am always prepared for rain, so, in addition to my tent, I brought a Noah's tarp. It didn't rain, and if it had, I doubt I would have been that miserable and probably would have opted for a motel instead. Both of these items added unnecessary bulk and weight to my bike.



Saying goodbye to my family.
Because of the remoteness and lack of cell phone service, I will not have contact with them until I arrive at Bella Coola. I do carry a personal locator beacon with me and bear spray.

I ride Wa. state hwy 9 up to the Canadian border and cross at Sumas.
From there, I head up to Mission B.C. and over to Harrison Mills. Although, I have been to B.C. many, many time, I have never been to Harrison Lake.



I turn north at the Sasquatch Inn. This is where my map and GPS tell me where to go.

Soon after, I find myself on the West Side FSR road on Harrison Lake. I encountered a couple of logging trucks and a few big 4x4 Ford F350/F450s who, I assume are working in the area. They are all very nice, slowign down and give me ample room to get around them.



At the first opprotunity, I stop to deflate my tires (25 psi on the front and 35 psi on the rear). At this point, my Tourances are performing just fine. I will leave them at this pressure for the next 3 days as I will be traveling almost exclusively on dirt.



Having a snack and I really begin to look at the lake, My God, it is beautiful.



I ride up another 10 lazy miles or so. It is "bone dry" and "Gretchen" (the German name I've given to my sassy big girl) is looking good in her new white wall tires.



The lake is amazing. This picture is crooked, ( I assume) because I am trying to stay upright on the side of the gravel road to get a better view. Maybe it is from wobbly knees



This is what the road typically looks like along W. Harrison FSR.



At one point, I think I died and went to heaven. AMAZING!!!!



I wanted to stay, but I still had a long way to go.

My riding partner and navigator told me we had to press on. Oh, yes, you thought this was a solo trip report. Not entirely true. Please let me introduce you to "Hyder". He is from the central B.C coast, his mom is a beautiful Kermodo bear and his dad is a big fisherman outside the town of Hyder Alaska. "Hyder" (pronounced "Hi-dare", slang for as in Hi there) joined us on our trip big home from the Yukon this summer. He has since become a permanant travel fixture on my bike.



In reality, my travel companion is a tribute to Chris Morgan and his conservation efforts through Bear Trek around the globe. I encourage all to read about Chris and his global adventures. He is one of my heroes in the area of wildlife conservation.


I had some concerns in the area of tires. Having fresh Tourances seemed to be OK. I encounterd no deep mud.. So far, so good.


At the far north end of Harrison Lake, the road began to get a bit rough. It was, in fact certain sections required 4x4 vehicles. The big GS and all my gear was a concern. The views, however, were getting better as the valley wilderness began to "swallow" me and my bike.


I saw absolutely nobody. No people, no traffic: I was able to stop and park when I wanted and where I wanted.


Gosh darn it! This is more beautiful than I imagined.



or... http://youtu.be/mrff0wFRCug

The road was just about right for me and my big bike. The video shows the typical road condtions at the north end of Harrison Lake. It is hard to capture the steepness and looseness of the rocks, but trust me, it is much worse than it appears.

I am proud of myself, in that, during my entire trip, I never crashed my heavy laden bike. I must say, theat the low gear in the big GS was a godsend for me. I also have handlebar risers as I am a tall guy (6'3") and they made a big difference. I also have pivot pegs and had them installed in the low position. I loved them.
I must take a break now. I will post a bit more about day one a bit later.

Thanks for riding along.
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Take Care, -GrizzLee
"Nature Sets the Boundaries; We choose to cross"
Blog: RubiKonAdventures
RR: Bella Coola 2013 / Bella Coola Canada 2012
RR: Our Life Behind Bars

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Old 09-14-2012, 08:08 PM   #3
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:40 PM   #4
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Day 1 Cont...

Day 1 Cont...

Picking up where I left off...



The FSR along West Harrison Lake usually runs high and away from the lake.



However, at one point it nearly "kisses" the lake. As it was warm, I took a nice dip to cool off.



Back on the bike and I was up in the high country again. Sometimes, the road climbed up pretty good.





After a rough section, I took another break... and some self portraits.



It sounds strange, but I took inventory of my gear again here. Tent, sleeping bag, food, etc... Yep, I'm ready to spend the night out here if I have to. Gear back on and another self portrait for the guys at work.



After yet, another rough section, I end up here at this bridge with some nice and cool falls. I celebrate with another snack.



The falls were wonderful and the best I've seen so far.



I always felt like someone was looking over my shoulder.



Finally the rough road ends abruptly. I arrive at Tipella (Tipella, British Columbia, Wikipedia ).



The logging camp is classic. It is just like out of a storybook. It was late and the workers were knocking off for the day. A couple approached me, curious as to where I came from. They offered to show me around on their enduros. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time... which was too bad. I would have loved to explore the area more.



My orginal intent was to ride down the north side of the Lillooet river to Lilliooet lake and maybe to Pemberton for the night. However, the road was washed out and I had to stay on the south side. After miles of riding and stopping to help a couple in a Jeep change a flat tire, I was on my way. I ended up crossing the river just below Lillooet lake.



The scenery off the bridge was an too good to be true. The lake was mirror calm.



This appears to be the south end of Lillooet Lake and the start of the Lillooet river. It was hard to tell. It was dead quiet and the only soul to come by, was a native on a bicycle. He went down by the bridge to tend his nets. The salmon were running. What a great place to sit and rest for awhile.



Gretchen looked very clean despite all the dust and the several creek crossings we made (reference my back country bike wash video). Because of this, I probably don't have much street cred with the ADV crowd here . But that's alright with me. I still had 5 more days to go and lots and lots of gravel and dirt left to travel.



It was getting late and I realized that I didn't want to pull into Pemberton at dusk. So I found a primitive campground along Lillooet Lake to spend the night. The PFO charged me 1/2 price, because I was on a motorcycle ($7). I couldn't complain about that.



For my $7 I got one of the best tables in the house for dinner that night. Front row seats on the shoreline. I cooked my dinner and checked my maps. What a day!


After dinner, I have hot cocoa and basked in the alpenglow just sitting and resting.

As I go to sleep that night, I am lucky, in that I have no thoughts of work, traffic or the daily grind in my mind. It was a great day indeed.

In planning my trip, I have many people to thank (first and foremost my family). To travel alone requires a bit more research and safety mitigation than travelling in a group). I had my doubts about this section of my trip as I read reports on here and heard folsk say that I shouldn;t ride alone thorugh teh north end of Harrison Lake. I would like to thank Chris (beemer67 ADVrider) and Colleen (DantesDame) for their advice and help. It proved to be invaluable in building my confidence and in my final decision to ride this section of my trip alone.

Stay tuned for Day 2....

Be patient, as I have a busy weekend ahead of me. I am to go hiking with my son (highest priority) this weekend. So hang in there.

Thanks for riding along with me.
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Take Care, -GrizzLee
"Nature Sets the Boundaries; We choose to cross"
Blog: RubiKonAdventures
RR: Bella Coola 2013 / Bella Coola Canada 2012
RR: Our Life Behind Bars
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:11 PM   #5
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This is great..............a friend and I want to do this area next year. Your report so far is great. What sources did you use for the GPS, tracks and maps ? Give me a PM if you get a chance please.
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:26 PM   #6
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Nice pics, Grizz! I about choked when I saw showroom-fresh Gretchen going through a puddle! You'll be scrubbing for days once you get home!!

Hope you and your family are well. Bring on Day 2.
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:01 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by stickman1432 View Post
This is great..............a friend and I want to do this area next year. Your report so far is great. What sources did you use for the GPS, tracks and maps ? Give me a PM if you get a chance please.
Stickman.. we'll do. Let me post some more and I'll send you PM with my personal contact info and my route info.

In short I used the BC Back Roads map book I picked up in Cache Creek last year as well as the ride reports I found here as my guide/inspiration. Seriously, I had no plans last year when I rode to Bella Coola. On a whim, I decided to ride some dirt and picked up the map book when I gassed up in Cache Creek. I always wondered what was beyond the road (Hwy 97) to the west of Clinton to Quesnel. We have land up in Bowron Lakes and have driven Hwy 97 numerous times. After my trip last year, I put together the trip for this year... looking to do as much off-grid travel as possible. AWESOME country.
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Take Care, -GrizzLee
"Nature Sets the Boundaries; We choose to cross"
Blog: RubiKonAdventures
RR: Bella Coola 2013 / Bella Coola Canada 2012
RR: Our Life Behind Bars
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:15 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickman1432 View Post
This is great..............a friend and I want to do this area next year. Your report so far is great. What sources did you use for the GPS, tracks and maps ? Give me a PM if you get a chance please.
You can find some info and GPS tracks for that area on this link. http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...747592&page=43
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:18 AM   #9
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Nice pics, Grizz! I about choked when I saw showroom-fresh Gretchen going through a puddle! You'll be scrubbing for days once you get home!!

Hope you and your family are well. Bring on Day 2.

You know me all to well.
Yes Gretchen is in step 9 of her 12 step cleaning process as I write this. Buffed, waxed and polished, all put away in her dust free crib. You have to keep your lady happy and looking good in order to maintain your desire to ride her. Once the dents and wrinkles set in, I may have a wandering eye and may have to replace her with a newer, less experienced lady. Not that that's a bad thing, but it gets expensive. Darn women ( er,, I mean BMW GSs) are high maintenance.

Thanks for chiming in... hope you and DonnyO are relaxed and ready for your next epic road trip.

BTW: I just replaced my brakes. Thanks to you two, I had no worries about doing it myself. Easy.
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Take Care, -GrizzLee
"Nature Sets the Boundaries; We choose to cross"
Blog: RubiKonAdventures
RR: Bella Coola 2013 / Bella Coola Canada 2012
RR: Our Life Behind Bars

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Old 09-16-2012, 09:24 AM   #10
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Day 2 (Sept 1, 2012)

Day 2 (Sept 1, 2012)

The next morning picked up where the previous evening left off. This day proved to be "spectacular".



My morning view from my tent camp on Lillooet Lake.



Camp coffee never tasted so good.



Breakfast wasn't bad either.



10 minutes from my camp and this is what I saw.



Gretchen looking good.



I rode over to Pemberton to get some gas and discovered that they have Mc Donald's there... When did this happen? I haven't been to Pemberton for 20 years or so I guess... this breaks my heart. In any event, I headed back to Mt Currie and headed up to D'arcy.

On my way to D'arcy, I nearly got hit by an on coming driver who wasn't paying attention and took one of the curves extremely wide nearly forcing me into the ditch. I had to stop and catch my breath... DAMN that was close!!!.. too close. I am surpised my panniers or my handle bars didn't clip his mirrors. For a brief moment, I had thoughts of turning around and having words with the SOB, but I decided that wouldn't help me and would taint my pleasant experience. So I let it be.



Once at D'arcy, I took a look around and then saddled up and headed for the high line road. A local native took my picture at the first view point I encountered.



Anderson Lake - A fresh water fjord. High above the lake is a power line road, known as the High Line Road, connecting D'arcy to Seton Portage. It offers incredible views and is a road perfectly suited for my big dual sport bike.


A questionable bridge scares me a bit

All is going very well at this point. Fun gravel roads, scenic lakes, deep gorges and forested mountains. All very beautiful. And then... I come upon this bridge. Unfortunately, I have no pictures of the bridge deck itself, but it essentially consisted of 2 wide planks separated by a distance, the width of a typical vehicle, that spanned a metal truss floor. I had to precariously make my way across the bridge on one of the planks knowing that if I had to put my foot down, it would be a disaster and possibly injury. As I proceed across the bridge, it begins to flex and bounce like a giant spring.. WHOA! I am not sure what kind of specs and certifications B.C. has in place, but, construction like this would not be found in my neck of the woods. It was as if this was a temporary bridge. I could see old wooden bridge pilings underneath... farther below, a deep chasm. Yes, this kind of stuff is what distinguishes an adventure from a vacation.




Looking west back where I came
With the bridge behind me, I proceed on to greater things. Did I mention the lake views?



Lunch time.




Looking toward Seton Portage and Seton Lake.
My God, man this is unbelievable.



Looking good.





Looking at the slide that separates Seton and Anderson Lakes.
Anderson and Seton Lake were originally the same lake in this fresh water fjord, which was cut in half between ten and twenty thousand years ago by a large landslide. The slide created a locality known today as Seton Portage.




Penstocks at the BC Hydro plant.




The support columns contain native artwork.




I found the artwork fascinating.




The penstocks coming down from Mission Mtn.




More artwork.




As I leave, I head toward Lillooet up Mission Mtn.




The view down Seton Lake is fantastic.




Past the summit on the other side is Carpenter Lake.




The road heading down toward the west.




The road is wonderful.




My head kept spinning from the views.




Beyond the lower part of the reservoir it is beautiful.




Yes, this is a bikers' road.




This is also known as the bridge river road. The Bridge river dumps out of Carpenter Lake on it's way to Lillooet. Damn fine motorcycle road if I ever saw one.



The natural erosion of the canyon is something to see.



Yours truly.



The bridge river is scenic from the roadside cliffs.



The bridge river road is one of the best roads in B.C. for raw scenery.



Bridge just before Lillooet

I had to make a decision here. At this point I could have taken the road over to Big Bar Ferry. It was late afternoon by now and I was concerned about finding a good place to camp. I decided to head over to the town of Lillooet and grab a late lunch. From there, I would head over to Pavillion and take a dirt road over to Kelly Lake. Where I would spend the night.




First glimpses of the Fraser River Canyon escarpment.

The road from Pavillion instantly climbed to a high plateau. I stopped to soak in the views of the Fraser River canyon. I began to hear rumbling noises. I couldn't quite figure out where they were coming from. Looking around I see nothing. There was definite deep rumble sound and I was puzzled. As I was looking around to determine the source, I see a train winding through the edge of the canyon below me. An incredible sight for sure. I took some video of the train.



Great road through private ranch lands

The Pavillion-Clinton road also referred to as a a "short cut" by locals. The road parallels the Marble Range and passes through some incredible ranch lands. It s probably less than 20 miles of dirt, but has 18% grades, some steep drop offs and offers some great vistas on the way over to Kelly Lake.




The road offers relentless scenic opportunities.




I found myself stopping often

It took me more than 2 hours to travel this road. The pictures here demonstrate my reluctance to leave the area in any expedient manner.




I must have stopped in awe for an hour to soak up the views.


I pull into Kelly Lake that evening to camp for the night. I set up my tent and took a quick dip in the lake to wash the road off my body. I have a light dinner and some hot cocoa. I pour over my maps to plan my route for the next day. Again, as I drift off to sleep, not one thought of work crosses my mind. Awe, what a great adventure vacation this is.

Stay tuned for Day 3...

Thanks for riding along with me.
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Take Care, -GrizzLee
"Nature Sets the Boundaries; We choose to cross"
Blog: RubiKonAdventures
RR: Bella Coola 2013 / Bella Coola Canada 2012
RR: Our Life Behind Bars

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Old 09-16-2012, 10:46 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by lexluther11 View Post
You can find some info and GPS tracks for that area on this link. http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...747592&page=43
Hey lexluther11,

That is an excellent source for the W.Harrison Lake route. You guys were a few days behind me. Great ride you guys had... 'cept for the broken bones. I almost thought of joining that ride, but I really wanted to go to Bella Coola and also take advantage of the extra day off over the labor day weekend.

I will say, that riding the North end of W. Harrison Lake should not be done alone, especially in light of the BC Traile Ride experience. I saw nobody when the road started getting rough. The thought of getting hurt was always on my mind in that section. I may have laid there a day or so before I got help. Although, I did carry a personal locator beacon. My bike was on the large side and was laden w/gear.

Thanks,
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RR: Bella Coola 2013 / Bella Coola Canada 2012
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:53 AM   #12
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Yes I ride a lot in that area alone and even though I know it well you still have to keep a watch out and be carefull. I carry a Spot with me just in case. When you get that many riders together there is always that chance someone will get a scratch or two. Last year it was a broken arm. Next year we will have a chase truck just for that reason, no one should have to ride with a broken foot.

Hopefully next year you can make and those are some great pictures...........Cheers

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Old 09-16-2012, 12:13 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by lexluther11 View Post
Yes I ride a lot in that area alone and even though I know it well you still have to keep a watch out and be carefull. I carry a Spot with me just in case. When you get that many riders together there is always that chance someone will get a scratch or two. Last year it was a broken arm. Next year we will have a chase truck just for that reason, no one should have to ride with a broken foot.

Hopefully next year you can make and those are some great pictures...........Cheers


Great picture...

It makes for a nice preview to the next leg of my report... Don't post too many spoilers. I have similar pictures to show for my RR on Day 3.
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Take Care, -GrizzLee
"Nature Sets the Boundaries; We choose to cross"
Blog: RubiKonAdventures
RR: Bella Coola 2013 / Bella Coola Canada 2012
RR: Our Life Behind Bars
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:49 PM   #14
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Great report. Those views are absolutely magnificent. Your photos make all the difference. Looking forward to more
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:00 PM   #15
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I have a book around here somewhere that says Bella Coola is the killer grizzly capital of the world.
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