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Old 09-17-2012, 12:48 PM   #1
Ryan Anderson OP
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R1100GS maintenance?

A question for the gurus. I bought a '97 R1100GS a couple of months ago, with 82K on it. Got a great deal on it. It is in essentially perfect cosmetic condition, and has no mechanical/electrical issues that I know of (maybe some minor surging in 3rd at about 3500 rpm). Has new ohlins shocks. The dealer I got it from said that the previous owner did regular maintenance, both on his own and in a shop, but they have no records of what was done. Both the dealer and I have given it a good inspection, without actually working on anything (no issues). I'm planning on changing the oil and checking the air filter this week. I do have a shop manual and the usual maintenance schedules, and I am fairly good with wrench work. My question is this: without a maintenance record, I don't know where to start with preventative maintenance. What should I be checking in detail, adjusting, or replacing? Is there one of the maintenance checklists I should start with (i.e., the 10K list, and go from there)? Any advice would be great!
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:53 PM   #2
wvrocks
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If it has the original rubber brake lines, strongly consider replacing them before they fail. This will take care of
the brake fluid swap that should be done too. Spieglers work well. Check your brake pad conditon while your at it.

Might change your fuel filter and inlet screen. If you are going to do that I'd think about replacing all the internal fuel lines in the tank and possibly adding quick disconnects to the outside fuel lines.

Not really maintenance but you might want to read this thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=665648
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Old 09-17-2012, 01:02 PM   #3
Twilight Error
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Anderson View Post
A question for the gurus. I bought a '97 R1100GS a couple of months ago, with 82K on it. Got a great deal on it. It is in essentially perfect cosmetic condition, and has no mechanical/electrical issues that I know of (maybe some minor surging in 3rd at about 3500 rpm). Has new ohlins shocks. The dealer I got it from said that the previous owner did regular maintenance, both on his own and in a shop, but they have no records of what was done. Both the dealer and I have given it a good inspection, without actually working on anything (no issues). I'm planning on changing the oil and checking the air filter this week. I do have a shop manual and the usual maintenance schedules, and I am fairly good with wrench work. My question is this: without a maintenance record, I don't know where to start with preventative maintenance. What should I be checking in detail, adjusting, or replacing? Is there one of the maintenance checklists I should start with (i.e., the 10K list, and go from there)? Any advice would be great!
I'm assuming there aren't any obvious oil/fluid leaks to resolve? My first stop would be a complete fluid change. Fresh oil and filter in the motor, transmission, fork tubes and final drive. Siphon fluid out of the brake reservoirs and replace with new, bleed the brakes until you get new fluid at the calipers. Re-torque the heads and check the valve adjustment. Pull the starter, check the clutch disc for thickness -if it's original, you'll want to change it soon. There isn't an easy way to check the transmission input splines without breaking the bike in half, a bore scope in the cavity might be a good way to look at them.
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Old 09-17-2012, 01:26 PM   #4
YetiGS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twilight Error View Post
I'm assuming there aren't any obvious oil/fluid leaks to resolve? My first stop would be a complete fluid change. Fresh oil and filter in the motor, transmission, fork tubes and final drive. Siphon fluid out of the brake reservoirs and replace with new, bleed the brakes until you get new fluid at the calipers. Re-torque the heads and check the valve adjustment. Pull the starter, check the clutch disc for thickness -if it's original, you'll want to change it soon. There isn't an easy way to check the transmission input splines without breaking the bike in half, a bore scope in the cavity might be a good way to look at them.
I would not re-torque the heads unless there is an indicated need. Far too many friends and me have re-torqued heads and had the studs pull out. Especially the lower left (or is it right ) one.

I agree with wvrocks, if the brake lines haven't been replaced with stainless steel ones, do it ASAP.

I just bought my '97 a short while ago with a mostly unknown service history. I changed all of the fluids (engine, transmission and final drive), checked the valves and end gap (they were perfect) and balanced the throttle bodies. I pulled the tank and changed the filter and installed new lines and added quick-disconnects. I checked the alternator belt. I installed the newer cam chain tensioner on the left head. You don't have to, but I did, do the low-voltage ABS fault fix.

Easy how-tos for all these can be found in Hall Of Wisdom (click the link at the lower right of every page on ADV). I also recommend the Jim VonBaden how-to videos.

Enjoy the "new" bike!
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Old 09-17-2012, 01:36 PM   #5
Twilight Error
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post
I would not re-torque the heads unless there is an indicated need. Far too many friends and me have re-torqued heads and had the studs pull out. Especially the lower left (or is it right ) one.

I agree with wvrocks, if the brake lines haven't been replaced with stainless steel ones, do it ASAP.

I just bought my '97 a short while ago with a mostly unknown service history. I changed all of the fluids (engine, transmission and final drive), checked the valves and end gap (they were perfect) and balanced the throttle bodies. I pulled the tank and changed the filter and installed new lines and added quick-disconnects. I checked the alternator belt. I installed the newer cam chain tensioner on the left head. You don't have to, but I did, do the low-voltage ABS fault fix.

Easy how-tos for all these can be found in Hall Of Wisdom (click the link at the lower right of every page on ADV). I also recommend the Jim VonBaden how-to videos.

Enjoy the "new" bike!
I've always redone the head torque when performing a valve adjustment on both my 1100 & 1150.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:21 PM   #6
YetiGS
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Originally Posted by Twilight Error View Post
I've always redone the head torque when performing a valve adjustment on both my 1100 & 1150.
Why?

If you have to adjust the rocker end play, you have to re-torque one of the bolts, but otherwise I can't think of a reason to do this?

I'm guessing you've never had one pull out on you.


Edit: re-reading this, that last sentence didn't come across right!
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:24 PM   #7
Twilight Error
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Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post
Why?

If you have to adjust the rocker end play, you have to re-torque one of the bolts, but otherwise I can't think of a reason to do this?

I'm guessing you've never had one pull out on you.


Edit: re-reading this, that last sentence didn't come across right!
No, I've never had one pull out.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:35 PM   #8
Ryan Anderson OP
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Lot's of good info, thanks! There are no fluid leaks that I've found. Where would I find these SS brake lines?
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:21 PM   #9
Twilight Error
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Lot's of good info, thanks! There are no fluid leaks that I've found. Where would I find these SS brake lines?
I got mine from Touratech, they're from a German supplier (not Speigler).
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:01 PM   #10
wvrocks
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I got mine direct from Spiegler USA. http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html. You can have them add extra length if you have bar risers.
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:08 PM   #11
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twilight Error View Post
I've always redone the head torque when performing a valve adjustment on both my 1100 & 1150.
That is just asking for trouble, especially on an 1100.

Jim
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:39 PM   #12
Mituk
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+1 on all of the above (except the headbolt retroque) - I just put a set of Spieglers on my '98 and got red to match the bike. They look great When you do that, bleed the ABS even if you are getting good lever pressure -- apparently crud hides in there, and even if you are bleeding clear at the wheel, you can still puke out black stuff from the ABS -- at least mine could.
You mentioned minor surging -- I still had some just off idle, even after meticulously valve adjusting and TB synching. Replaced the plugs with Autolite 3923's, and it disappeared. I was pretty surprised, so put the old plugs back in -- surge was back. Just got back from 3200 miles through southern CO & UT, and they performed flawlessly. Also improved cold start a bit, which is nice when you are camped at 9,000' and its a bit chilly.
The items mentioned in the above posts pretty much cover any safety/longevity items you should immediately be concerned about - Ride it, get to know it, and you'll have a blast!
Cheers
Dave
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:51 PM   #13
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New braided SS brake lines with fancy colored banjos can be had here. Good prices and excellent service....

http://www.cyclebrakes.com/html/galfer_brake_lines.html

If you have questions, they'll walk you through it.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:02 PM   #14
YetiGS
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Originally Posted by wvrocks View Post
I got mine direct from Spiegler USA. http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html. You can have them add extra length if you have bar risers.
That's where I got mine too. I got the master cylinder to ABS pump made 3" longer because of my bar risers. Perfect.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:21 PM   #15
JLeather
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I'm in about the same boat as you. Last summer I bought a '95 11GS with 94k on the clock. Changed all the fluids, SOP on a new bike for me and most other conscientous inmates. I put speigler lines on it (with an extra 2" in the top line for some Rox risers) and it required new tires and front rotors to pass MD inspection. I'd recommend flushing the ABS module with the bleeders on top and not just relying on the caliper bleeders to get it all. Mine had some pretty good gunk come out of the ABS unit itself.

I changed the in-tank fuel lines and unfortunately busted the fuel pump nipple in the process (stupid crimped-on factory hose clamps) so it got a new fuel pump. Moved the filter to the outside of the tank and replaced the big O-ring on the tank. I performed the relay mods in the thread linked above, as well as the ABS power relay mod so the bike stopped throwing ABS codes at cold start-ups. I checked the valves, and in the process either stripped or discovered 3 stripped valve cover bolt holes (helicoiled them). Oh, yeah, and I found my headlight wiring had melted so I replaced that and added a relay to function the high beams and a set of driving lights I installed.

That's the short list. About $1k (the fuel pump and front rotors were not cheap) and about 3 weeks of fairly serious attention. Wouldn't do a thing different, love the bike and would ride it to Alaska tomorrow if I had the vacation time. Enjoy it.
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