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Old 09-05-2008, 12:25 AM   #76
Luke
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The BMW F650GS has a 400w stator on some of the years. You might try one of those regulators. They're a bit more expensive, but will likely be much more reliable.

As far as the headlights, the stock wiring only provides 10.5 volts to the bulb, so installing thicker wires and a relay from the battery will get a lot more light out of a regular bulb.
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Old 09-06-2008, 02:04 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
...
I have alot more info on bulbs if you are interested... good luck with the new Electrosport stuff...
Hey Meat, yeah, any info you have on bulbs that you can give me would be great. Those bulbs that you have, are they marked / stamped "12v 55 watt", or was that only on the package? I see most of the ones in the eBay shops are also colored. As far as I know, coloring the light is done by actually removing part of the light spectrum - filtering out some of the light wavelengths before they leave the bulb, so that means less light is output, and all the wavelengths that are removed are not available to reflect off of objects in your path. That seems to agree with my experience with colored bulbs. Anyway, thanks for any info you can give me.
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Old 09-06-2008, 04:45 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthscape
Hey Meat, yeah, any info you have on bulbs that you can give me would be great. Those bulbs that you have, are they marked / stamped "12v 55 watt", or was that only on the package? I see most of the ones in the eBay shops are also colored. As far as I know, coloring the light is done by actually removing part of the light spectrum - filtering out some of the light wavelengths before they leave the bulb, so that means less light is output, and all the wavelengths that are removed are not available to reflect off of objects in your path. That seems to agree with my experience with colored bulbs. Anyway, thanks for any info you can give me.
Osram is a top shelf bulb mfg. Yes they are marked 12V 55W on the packaging, and I fully expect them to be exactly that... they are Made in Germany.

More information than you could ever want here:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/tech.html

A more user-friendly wiring upgrade supplier:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/

And a bit on bulbs here:
http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/for...ts=4&mid=92165
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Old 09-06-2008, 09:57 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
The BMW F650GS has a 400w stator on some of the years. You might try one of those regulators. They're a bit more expensive, but will likely be much more reliable.

As far as the headlights, the stock wiring only provides 10.5 volts to the bulb, so installing thicker wires and a relay from the battery will get a lot more light out of a regular bulb.
Interesting. I see that Electrosport has a model ESR710 that is for 97 to 01 F650s. But, I'm not sure what output those years had. Do you have or know where to find any info about the physical characteristics of the BMW regulator? I did a quick search and didn't come up with much yet. I was also looking at the KTM950 regulator. The 950 has a 450 watt output, but the regulator is a bit bigger. If I can find a way to modify the LC4 mounting plate, I'd have a bigger selection of regulators to choose from, probably including the BMW and KTM950 units. Thanks for the info!
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Old 09-07-2008, 10:32 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
Osram is a top shelf bulb mfg. Yes they are marked 12V 55W on the packaging, and I fully expect them to be exactly that... they are Made in Germany.

More information than you could ever want here:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/tech.html

A more user-friendly wiring upgrade supplier:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/

And a bit on bulbs here:
http://www.pointedthree.com/disc/for...ts=4&mid=92165
Excellent bulb info Meat - seems to fit exactly with my experiences. I found these and may try them - true 65 watt clear bulbs:
http://www.bestrestproducts.com/cele...form/?recno=66
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Old 09-07-2008, 01:24 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthscape
Interesting. I see that Electrosport has a model ESR710 that is for 97 to 01 F650s. But, I'm not sure what output those years had. Do you have or know where to find any info about the physical characteristics of the BMW regulator? I did a quick search and didn't come up with much yet. I was also looking at the KTM950 regulator. The 950 has a 450 watt output, but the regulator is a bit bigger. If I can find a way to modify the LC4 mounting plate, I'd have a bigger selection of regulators to choose from, probably including the BMW and KTM950 units. Thanks for the info!
No, my idea was to use the actual BMW regulator. Those bikes get a lot of hours put on them and are pretty reliable, so that might be a good alternative if you're having problems with the electrosport products.

The 400W stators were only the GS Dakar models, or something like that. I remember the parts fiche mentioned the power rating when I looked. From memory, the GS regulators are quite a bit bigger than the KTM one, but that makes sense if they can handle a lot more power.

There is some space between the carb and the starter that might work for mounting one. You might also want to run the regulator output leads straight to the battery, as the stock wires are very thin.
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Old 09-07-2008, 06:36 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
No, my idea was to use the actual BMW regulator...
Yes, I understood that. I was looking for any information on the size of the BMW regulator, figuring that a replacement for it would be similar in size.
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:06 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthscape
Yes, I understood that. I was looking for any information on the size of the BMW regulator, figuring that a replacement for it would be similar in size.
Ah, sorry, I misunderstood you. Offhand, the V-strom and KTM LC8 also have big stators. 450W. The V-strom reg has a connector right on it, so will be hard to retrofit. The KTM is a possibility (and only $100)

I just found the 650 faq here, which says the regulator is 28mm x 91mm x 81mm.
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Old 10-04-2008, 08:24 PM   #84
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Well, I didn't hear back from Electrosport, and didn't want to just watch the rest of the riding season (and best part) slip away. So I ordered a KTM 950 regulator from Bike Bandit. Unfortunately, just before I ordered it, the price went up by $8. Oh well. I was able to cheat slightly, since I have a 950 Adventure I was able to look at the regulator on it to see if it could work before ordering one.

Here's a comparison of the stock 640 regulator and the 950 regulator, the 950 regulator is on the left, and is significantly bigger than the 640 regulator:





The connectors on the 950 regulator are also different. It has the 3 input stator yellow wires, but has 2 ground wires and 2 +12v wires. According to the 950 wiring diagram, both ground and +12v wires eventually go to the same place on the bike.



Using all soldered connections, I combined the positive and negative leads, and put the connectors for the 640 onto the 950 regulator.



This photo shows the 950 regulator on the 640, but not quite finished. After this picture, I had to drill out new holes for the mounting studs because the 950 regulator is enough larger than the 640 regulator that it can't be moved back onto the mounting plate far enough for the holes to align with the studs. You can get around this at least 2 ways. 1, do the same thing as I did on the Electrosport regulator, drill new holes and enlarge the top part to fit the nuts on the studs. 2, what I did, drill new holes for the mounting studs so that the studs partially protrude in the original mounting holes, and then use short bolts into the original holes from the top. Since the bolts going in from the top have the same thread as the studs, the threads from the bolts grab onto the threads from the studs and hold everything in place. A little aluminum foil can be used as a spacer to in case the bolts aren't close enough to engage the studs. I know this is hard to understand. I'll try to get a pic of this somehow soon. Even though not much thread overlaps, it seems to hold more than enough.



So far a test ride shows it is working. After about an hour ride non-stop, I pulled the seat off as quick as possible and checked out the regulator. It was quite warm, but was not anywhere near too hot to touch (it was also a cold evening). Only time will tell, but given the 950 is rated to put out 450 watts, it should handle the increased 640 output. I may look into putting a small PC fan on top of the regulator to try and move some air over it better under the seat.

Next up, is to install one of these IPF bulbs in the low beam side. I still have a working 70 watt bulb in the high beam side (HUGE difference), but when it goes I'll put one of these in there too (H1 bulbs are neither low or high beam specific). These are real 65 watt CLEAR bulbs from Best Rest http://www.bestrestproducts.com/cele...form/?recno=66

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Old 10-04-2008, 09:32 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthscape
snipage

On a related note, if anyone knows where I can get H1 headlight bulbs in the 70 to 80 watt range, that are CLEAR, no tint, no coating, no fancy garbage, please let me know. .


Go HID... more light,..less wattage
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Old 10-06-2008, 04:08 PM   #86
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I finally got off of the pot and pulled the trigger on the ESG950 stator from Electrosport and the 950 voltage regulator bought from Munn's.

Given the very limited amount of real estate under the seat, heat, and larger voltage regulator size, I've settled on mounting the new VR below the waterpump on the left side of the bike. I'll have to fashion some sort of small bracket to complete this new dynamo.

I figure if BMW is mounting their VR's out in the clean air they might be onto something, so I'll mount this VR in the clean airflow as well.

More photos and story at 10.

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Old 10-07-2008, 07:53 PM   #87
Earthscape
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
... I've settled on mounting the new VR below the waterpump on the left side of the bike...
Not trying to change your mind, but keep in mind the engine gives off a lot of heat itself, especially where the air flows out from the radiator and down under the gas tank (plus back off the left header and coolant hoses). If you can get your hand down there while riding you can feel how much heat there is. Might still be better than under the seat though. I'd love to see a pic of what you come up with. It's worth the trouble.
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Old 12-11-2008, 03:53 PM   #88
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In as much as you have to redo the connectors on the Electrosport VR and figure out the CDI interface anyway, and considering what seems to be some legitimate, pervasive quality concerns with the Electrosport VR, why wouldn't one simply use a Yamaha VR for a Raptor. Is it too underrated for the new stator output in a manner similar to the stock KTM VR?
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:00 PM   #89
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BillyD, not sure anyone has an answer for you. It's possible, but I think (and Luke knows way more about this stuff than me) this stator in the LC4 flywheel puts out more power than it does when in the Raptor.

Hopefully no bad luck, but so far the 950 regulator seems to be up to the task with the new stator. I was initially thinking of adding some air flow to the regulator under the seat, but I compared the "hotness" of the regulator on the 640 to the regulator on the actual KTM950 after a ride, and it gets far hotter on the 950 than it does on the 640 - so that leads me to believe that it's probably not being stressed on the 640 with the high output stator.

One other thing I've noticed is that the stock wire connecting the charging system to the battery is mighty spindly. I might try connecting one of the regulator wires directly to the battery terminal (Luke, is that legal? - one wire from the regulator into the harnes at the original connection, and the other regulator wire directly to the battery?).

Luke, if you're still reading, one other question you may be able to answer - I haven't found a good explanation anywhere for what the difference is between a stator/regulator/rectifier setup, and an alternator setup. My Triumph has an alternator, it's mounted behind the cylinders and is air cooled, is rated at only 300 watts, but in practice seems to put out more usable power than that (dual 65 watt headlights, dual tail lights, heated grips, heated vest, and even at idle doesn't seem to be stressed). What's the difference? (besides being very heavy... )
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:09 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthscape
One other thing I've noticed is that the stock wire connecting the charging system to the battery is mighty spindly. I might try connecting one of the regulator wires directly to the battery terminal (Luke, is that legal? - one wire from the regulator into the harnes at the original connection, and the other regulator wire directly to the battery?).
On my 625SXC I have both outputs of the RR connected direct to the battery terminals (disconnected from the wiring harness), it's a Luke-ism, from his 640Adv. So you should be able to do the same on the 950 one. I had a wiring harness fault on my 625, good output from R/R but something bogus in the wiring causing current to drop and the battery would discharge. After 2 hours of debugging at Luke's I just punted and copied his bypass though I used the correct connectors sourced from EasternBeaver .... one of these days I'll try and find where the issue is.
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