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Old 09-28-2012, 06:10 AM   #61
REAPER_ONE
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Where is this? I want one...



Had a home in Dixmont, Stillwater, and Winterport Village ME... I am so home sick!
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:57 AM   #62
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Sandy Cove, NS...but this one ain't for sale!
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:02 PM   #63
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Day 5: Sandy Cove, NS to Antigonish, NS

I woke just before the sunrise and putzed around outside with my coffee as the morning dew evaporated off the seat of my GS. Beard got up and we both packed our belongings and said goodbye to my family. Heading down onto the main road, you get a good view of the tidal change in Sandy Cove.


Many old lobster and fishing boats line the roadside. As certain fisheries close and faced government restrictions, many fisherman hung up their nets and traps.


Beard and I stop at WalMart and Canadian Tire on the way out of Digby in search of a seat pad for him. I have the best WalMart gel seat pad for a car that I've used for many 1000 mi days and swear by it. He eventually found one at Canadian Tire.

Heading north, I chose to travel the Evangeline Trail through the Annapolis Valley. I have more pics of the town from my return trip so stay tuned! Along the way we pass by the tidal power station. It harnesses the power of the tidal bore to create energy.


Travelling through the Annapolis Valley, I had a hard time telling if I was in the Shenandoah or Nova Scotia. It really looked that similar except for the road signs. Corn fields, orchards, cattle and all the familiar smells of home.




In Kingston, we encountered a road crew painting the line markings on the side of the road. Guess who got a little close to the white line?


We cruised north and I had to stop outside Truro for this shot.


We rode along back country two lane roads staying as close to the west coast of Nova Scotia. We pulled off for a break at the Walton Light.




The tidal bore began to roll up river as we stood and watched beside the burned down pier






How's that for a tidal change!?


I'm really quite pleased that this hail mary shot came out! Nice Volvo P1800


Shortly after we saw the Volvo, we stopped for gas at a tractor repair/auto parts/gas station. A kid no older than 12 came out and started chatting with us. It then became clear that he was running the gas station pumps Cool little dude, 12 going on 18. After pumping, we went inside and he rung up our credit cards like a pro. His Dad was around placing parts orders or somesuch.

Continuing up the coast we took a break at the Arisaig Lighthouse. It is really just a glorified ice cream shop.


This was the view for much of the ride. No complaints!


Beard and I took a break at the Cape George Light to relax in the grass and enjoy the view of the blue water and blue sky. His photos here turned out great!





The road from Cape George down to Antigonish was picturesque and a bit twisty.


Am I back in the Blue Ridge


We cruised through Antigonish and picked up some ingredients for dinner and beers/whiskey from the NSLC before heading back out on the road. The sun was sinking lower and we needed to find a place to camp. Unfortunately the area was pretty populated and random parks and hidden places to boondock were few. We settled on a campground with what appeared to be a Dorito Chip with a face as a mascot. Still not sure what that was about but they had wifi and showers. I'll split a site fee for a night with another bike for some conveniences. Also, it is nice to charge the Chatterboxes.




I don't have any food shots but I think Beard does...the kilbasa and onion/pepper hoagie cooked over the campfire was delicious after a great day in the saddle. Tomorrow morning we'll rise and cross the Canso Causeway to Cape Breton for some Cabot Trail goodness.

Next stop: MEAT COVE
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:10 PM   #64
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Now, I have to both apologize for my commentary getting rather bland and for it not getting any better in my following report. Many don't realize just how hard it is to make a simple, good day on the road that interesting to you masses. Sure we have pretty pictures, but we all love a good yarn woven in with it. Well sometimes, the roads are just great, the meals are simple & on the side of the road, and the company is just that perfect balance of companionship & unobtrusiveness where the experience is shared but you're still having your own ride. I guess I'm saying that there are great days on the road with certain people where there is simply no drama, but that it's still a day that you will remember forever. This day & the next were like that. Well, a bit more drama the next day, but we'll get to that eventually.

And on with it. After being epically skeptical about HBN's “magic” seat cushion, I tried it for all of about 10mi, after which we got into something of a heated debate because he wanted it back & I sort of suggested something along the lines of him procreating with himself, etc and we decided that I should just maybe attempt to procure my own cushion. Or something to that effect. Anyhow, I'm officially a Disciple of the Cushion. And I found one at Canadian Tire.

I have to agree with HBN on the terrain being familiar in parts of NS. A good chunk of Day... what are we on now... 5? ... felt like someone took the grape country of western NY and plopped it on an atlantic coastline.



This piece of dirt riding was fantastic in the morning, even though my dirt legs were weirdly hard to find after the last 2k mi of pavement...

Another example of just how huge the tides are up here:




Some more shots at the grain silo (which there are also a lot of in WNY) and bay:






And of the stop by the glorified ice cream light house. I was very annoyed here and I have absolutely no memory as to why. Lol. Maybe I needed a snack...




But I was in a much better mood when we hit the Cape George lighthouse and had a nice lay-down in the grass.





Funny thing here is that in both of the pics above there was a huge Korean family loudly checking out the light house. I was just in that perfect position where if I bent down slightly they were hidden behind the luggage on my bike, making the place look deserted.








After that we dropped into town (Antigonish). I was baffled by the sudden & honestly shocking number of hot young women all of a sudden, until we passed the college. No pictures were taken because we were frantically searching for booze near sunset.

We raced the sunset looking for camping and stopped at a couple of trashy RV places before ending up at the Crazy Flipping Dorito Campground. Just to prove that HBN isn't making that up, here's their logo. I can't tell you how many signs we passed with that logo thinking "what the hell is that place...???"




Dinner on the road can still be *&#$@ing amazing...




And HBN going for “second supper” late night:




And we went to bed not knowing that tomorrow would include some of the best roads on the Eastern Seaboard (pavement & dirt), a hot girl on a bicycle that we would accidentally stalk for an hour, strange canned goods, amazing seafood, a local NOVA man at the end of the world, and the Campground at the End of the Universe.


(Ps: if you got that last reference, pat yourself on the back for being a huge dork like me.)
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Old 09-30-2012, 06:38 PM   #65
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Day 6: Antigonish, NS to Meat Cove, NS

I woke up around 6 to the sound of birds chirping in the birch trees. I had rested wonderfully and had the luxury of a shower and warm oatmeal before leaving camp. The weather looked to be partly cloudy, temps in the low 60's and a bit windy along the water.

Our first geographically significant item of the day was passing across the Canso Causeway to the island of Cape Breton.

After crossing, we decided to ride along the western coast of the island. The road signs began to change from English and French to English and Gaelic We passed a few Celtic music centers and local information stations before riding through the small town of Port Hood. The wind whipped white caps on the water as we passed the church, a tired school, cottages nearly shut for the end of summer season and the sturdy weathered seaside homes.

The dirt detour along Little Mabou Rd was worth the beautiful views of cows, gravel, grassy fields and the crashing waves along the rocky cliffs.


We took a short break in Little Mabou for Beard to adjust his clanky chain and for me to pick apples and read local history. The area has a rich history of Scottish settlement due to fertile soil, rich fishing and lobster grounds and abundant mining resources.


Of course we have to stop at Glenora Distillery.


It is THE ONLY single malt manufacturer in North America.


I loved the cutting boards but alas I could not justify bringing it along. An hour later we actually drove past the "Cutting Baord Shop" where they made these things


From Glenora, we set out for Baddeck skirting the south shore of Lake Ainslie


We make our way over to Badeck and roll down through the main street. There are many people out and about enjoying the sunny weather and shops/restaurants along the water. Our destination is the Alexander Graham Bell Museum. It is amazing how many interesting projects and concepts he was working on from hydrofoils to aids for the deaf and blind


The HD-4




Beard has a few more pics of the town and surroundings I believe. Maybe not. Stop in if you are passing through!

After fueling up along the 101, we turned North onto the Cabot Trail.


The road snaked higher into the interior along low mountains and small lakes contained in their valleys. After spending some time behind a line of slow cars, we decided to take a side trip over to the Shore Road at Margaree Forks. Working our way south, I noted a road that jutted off to the right and back north again connecting with the Shore Rd. Farquhar Rd - Perfect!

It quickly turned to gravel


Then to this


After getting stuck in some slippery mud and having a hard time riding through the low hanging limbs, we decided to take a break to scout ahead. Some of the ruts were looking much deeper than a fully loaded GS without knobbies should tackle a few thousand miles from home.


It looked like we weren't the only ones using this "Road"


Maybe the only humans!


After scouting ahead for 1/4 mile or so, the conditions didn't improve so we decided to turn around. I roade back downhille and tried to direct Beard. "OH SHIT! Don't go this way! Stay to the left dude!!!" As soon as I got crossed up in the rut and dumped her, my first reaction was to dance away and take a picture! I think Beard almost fell over from laughing so hard.


Picking the bike up was relatively easy but getting it out of that rut was a bit harder. I plowed on down the rocky and rutted path until it began to gravel out again near a clearing and an abandoned old white farmhouse. Just down from there we came around a bend to find the entire road blocked by an electric company cherry picker truck working on some overhead wires. The look of the work crew as we descended down the rutted path to "nowehere" was priceless. He sorta let us scoot past the truck with 6 inches to spare between my front tire and a deep ditch. Fun

Shortly thereafter, we found ourselves back along the Shore Rd, vents on the jackets open to evaporate the sweat worked up in the woods.




The cliff and cemetery above Whale Cove was absolutely stunning. What a beautiful place.


Beard strikes a pose


We take a nice break laying in the grass and drying out our gear. After fueling up on granola bars and taking tons of cool pictures, we set off North along the shore toward Margaree Harbor and eventually Cheticamp.

Along the way we see our first moose of the trip.


We spent about an hour in Cheticamp riding through then shopping. We passed a beauty on a bicycle backtracking to the NSLC for libations.


While in the NSLC, she walks in to buy some wine. Good wine. Beard and I sorta nod at each other. Think I may move

Okay onward, time for some fresh seafood. We wind up getting smoked salmon from a place the cashier at NSLC recommended all the way back by the moose we saw. Once we secure the salmon, we have to stop to get bread and some other forgettable dinner items at the grocery store. Guess who we see in the grocery store? The same bicycle girl. After checkout we head out of town only to pass by her once more as she rides North. Seriously?

Shortly after leaving Cheticamp, we enter the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.


It is truly breathtaking. If you live on the east coast of the US, it is a MUST ride!


This famous overlook


After curving around the twisty mountain passes, the road begins to rise to about 1500 meters and the climate and vegetation changes quickly.






We had a spirited ride back down from the highlands and eventually made the turn left toward Meat Cove. They were paving the road to Bay St. Lawrence and Deadman's Pond. Later we found out that a resort somewhere along the road paid to have the frost heaved road repaved.

Love the wooden bridges here!



The road to Meat Cove then turns to dirt for 8 or 10 k to camp.




We pull around the last bend in the cliff and come to the overlook casting our gaze on Meat Cove. For Beard this is the northernmost point he will travel on this trip with me. If it weren't for the stupid ferry to NL being down, he could have made it there as well. The sun was falling lower in the sky as we pulled up toward the small campground office building and shed on the hilltop. The kind young woman running the camp took our evening's site rental and pointed us to the allowable motorcycle spots. We chose one right on the cliff's edge and set up our tents. The wind was blowing steadily so staking everything down kept us from rappelling down the cliffside to collect our tents and belongings.

After getting setup, I decided to walk down to the beach for a swim.





Kicking back on the beach was exactly what I needed after the day's ride. The temps were in the 60's but the sun was keeping my wet back warm as I relaxed to the sound of the waves.


Walking back up to camp, this is the small creek that winds down to the bay.


Back at camp, Beard has taken a shower and is feeling somewhat normal (as much as he can without a travelling chiropractor). We notice a Kawi Concours10 parked up the hill from us. Damn! Those look like Virginia tags. Naw. YES! I go introduce myself and ask where he is from in VA. Turns out he lives in Falls Church. My house is a mile from the East Falls Church Metro! What a small world. We invite him (can't remember his name) down to eat his dinner at our firepit and swap stories. Shortly after, a VStrom pulls in and I walk up and invite him down when he gets things settled.

An hour or so later, at the farthest end of the island of Cape Breton, a photographer, school teacher, writer and cartographer passed a bottle of Candian Whisky while swapping stories and plans for the future. The stars were beautiful , the wind blew strong and I could not have been happier as I fell asleep that night with a sense of accomplishment. Tomorrow I ride to The Rock and part ways with my travelling compadre.


No doubt, Beard will have a greater recollection and quality of pics from our stay on the cliffside.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:09 PM   #66
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Great photos........

I really enjoy reading about that area and looking at your great photos. Thanks for taking the time to do this.

Gary "Oldone"

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Old 09-30-2012, 07:15 PM   #67
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Thanks! 10 or 15 more days to come
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:20 PM   #68
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Keep it coming boyzzzzz. I am enjoying the pics and commentary.
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:17 PM   #69
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Ok. I should be working (yeah, I know, at Midnight on a Sunday???), but with HBN's report fresh and me just the right amount of buzzed (yeah, I can drink at work), I thought I'd get into it.

So, yeah. What HBN said for the morning. We hit some stunning paved roads & stunning dirt roads, stunning hills and shoreline. It was stunning. And I didn't take enough pics. C'est le riding. I ended up doing some maintenance in the most beautiful place I've ever had adjust a chain. Then the distillery where I spent way more on a small bottle of almost-scotch than I really should have.

The engines on Bell's hydrofoils absolutely entranced me. HUGE V-12s. Exposed valve stems. Huge brass radiators. I want one in my living room.






Then we got on the Cabot trail.




Beautiful riding again as HBN said. Until he decided to take a “shortcut”. It started out as a road. Turned into something more resembling a driveway. Then turned into a rough double track (HBN: seriously, it looks like a major road on my map!). Then it turned up the mountain and got both muddy & rocky. With over hanging branches/brambles making it hard as hell to see what you're getting into a meter at a time. I decided to stop the crazy train & scout ahead a bit. Also, HBN may have gotten briefly struck behind me. That also may have been because I was going too slowly.

The trail was pretty rough ahead and we had 3 or 4 miles of it until we got back on pavement. It was the kind of trail that would be a blast on a small bike on an afternoon in the mountains when you could call a buddy if everything went to hell. But it was over my head fully loaded & this far from home.



The funniest part of this little excursion was, after the 2 man effort of getting both bikes pointed back down the mountain, Mike took off while I geared back up. Suddenly I heard someone yelling in the distance in the woods. My thoughts (irrationally) immediately turned to angry locals with guns coming after us for trespassing. It took me a whole 2 minutes to figure out that the Chatterbox communicator was still on in the helmet hanging on the mirror on my bike and I was hearing Mike cursing in his own helmet several hundred yards down the trail.


We had been looking for a good spot to snack for about an hour and I saw a sign for a cemetery that pointed toward the ocean. That's gotta be cool. So we turned around and headed to easily the most amazing place I've even eaten lunch.














The we headed on into Cheticamp in search of seafood & beer. Vittles were procured & a hot chick was accidentally followed all over town.






And then we headed up into Cape Breton park.






I made this nice info-graphic that should be self-explanitory:




The campsite @ Meat Cove is at least as amazing as everyone said. I hadn't heard any of that chatter, so I was oblivious. Bloody amazing.






After meeting our new friend from NOVA here at the Campground at the End of the Universe (yep, still using that) and a cool guy from NB, we got a fire going and ate like kings. Well, as good as the real kings probably did. Not like on TV. Anyway. So then I took some pictures.










I went to bed on the soft grass of the cliff with the gentle breeze off the Atlantic whistling quietly through my tent (can you imagine this place in a Nor'easter? That would be awesome...). I would have been completely at peace, but I knew that the next day I would have to point my nose home and turn south for the first time in a week. Without my pink-clad compadre.
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:17 PM   #70
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Day 7: Meat Cove, NS to Port Aux Basques, NFL

Meat Cove always dazzles with the morning sunrises providing the weather holds out.


Representing for the BWDR


We had a bit of time to kill so I walked down to the "restaurant" about 1/8 mi inland. It was closed. I did take a quick wash in the river though which was refreshing. I walked back letting the sun dry me off.

After packing the bikes up, we said goodbye to the other motorcyclists and roared out of the grassy campsite.



It was warming up quickly...just in time for us to sit in the sun for 10 minutes on fresh asphalt waiting for the paving crew to let us pass. Once back on the Cabot Trail we stopped for a refuel then began working our way south along the east coast. The views were spectacular.




We pulled down to the water for a stretch and a granola snack.




Another sweet restoration.


We made our way down along Barchaois Pond on 312 to Englishtown Ferry. This narrow peninsula was a neat coastal drive with many birds and a beach that seemed to last forever.






Titanic's Little Brother


Here we are in pretty heavy crosswinds crossing the Seal Island Bridge just outside Sydney, NS


Just before the turn for the ferry, Beard and I stop at a gas station to part ways. He gives me a thumbs up. He usually uses a different finger


I'm gonna miss ya buddy. Safe travels!

Shortly after we part ways, I pull into the Ferry Terminal where I have an hour or so until I can board.


While waiting, I go inside to scope out their facility...really just to eat some of my own tuna and crackers in the air conditioning. After a buzzer telling everyone to return to their vehicles I walk back to the bike and chat with some honeymooners from St. John returning from ME. After chatting for about 25 minutes, it is clear that all the cars will be boarding first. A GS pulls up and I chat with the rider from Iowa for another 20 minutes until they finally let us on board.


The Sydney to Port Aux Basques ferry is about 6 hours so I changed into some more comfortable clothes behind my bike and packed my camelback with various electronics that needed charging and climbed up to one of the decks.


Think I got a little sun?


The sunset wasn't spectacular but I figured I'd snap a shot anyway just to let you know that it happened.


After a smooth sailing in which I watched some weather reports, charged some accessories and smoked my pipe while sipping coffee, we made it to Port Aux Basques.




After sitting in the hold breathing diesel truck fumes, I was released into the cool damp air. My first stop was the ferry terminal to book a return crossing. When she asked me when I wanted to schedule it for, I had to ask what day it was and look at the calendar. I love that feeling One week from today. That should give me some time to ride Newfoundland and maybe skip over to see what Labrador is all abooot.

Made it!


GOT IT


It was sprinkling out and the last thing I needed to do (wanted maybe) was ride off into the darkness on an unknown island with big creatures wandering about. I cruised around Port Aux Basques around 10PM until I found a Yamaha dealership and paint shop with plenty of space out back. I figured a Yamaha shop would be one of the last places to mind if I boondocked. Hell I'd buy a tire or something from them if it came to it.

I quickly set up camp, had a cold can of tuna because I didn't feel like messing around with the stove. Drank some whisky and quickly fell asleep to the sound of rain pattering on my tent.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:45 AM   #71
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Great RR guys
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:46 PM   #72
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Loving the RR, guys!

If I'd known you were so close to my backyard, we'd have put the Welcome Mat out and offered you a place to stay for the night. And probably fed you and given you beer. While my BBQ wouldn't have been the quality to what you are accustomed, I probably even could have found some local fish to grill -

Ping me the next time you're all up. There are some pretty spectacular local spots to ride (even on a big GS )!

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Old 10-02-2012, 08:37 AM   #73
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Mmmmmmm.......Chimay......good stuff; and the Grande Reserve none the less! The best of the 3 in my opinion.

Keep it coming boys; thoroughly enjoying it.
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:14 PM   #74
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Great ride reporting - keep it rolling!
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:20 PM   #75
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Great write-up and beautiful photos.
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