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Old 05-19-2013, 12:52 PM   #196
DefconZero
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Just read through your whole thread and I must say this device tickles my fancy VERY MUCH SO.

Definitely in to help you get this thing on the road to victory!
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:54 PM   #197
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Just came across this - interesting.

I put a pc8 in my f8gs when I switched to Shorai(before Joel's thread) It's cramped in there, this might be worth tinkering with.

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Old 05-20-2013, 07:26 AM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.C View Post
Hey Crafty,

I don't see any mounting holes in the pics of the epoxy encased protos, do you have a some mounting holes in the wind?

I suspect it's a cart and horse question but are you anticipating significant feature changes after the kickstarter run or just minor issue fixes?
If the early adopters by in large agree on some significant feature changes then I will almost certainly include those in the post Kickstarter version. Designs evolve though, so it is fair expect that a V2 will be better than the V1. I'm still waiting for the iPhone 82 before I get one, its the one that is going to be the AWESOMIST!... Then again, maybe I should wait for the iPhone 83...
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:32 AM   #199
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Does this schematic make sense to y'all? Please, exclude yourself from this survey if no schematic I could show you would ever make any sense to you.

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Old 05-20-2013, 09:19 AM   #200
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I'm not an EE but it makes sense to me.
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:54 AM   #201
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How much pwm

How many channels can be PWM'd? or CC'd? All?

Looking forward to it's release.
T
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:56 AM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter View Post
How many channels can be PWM'd? or CC'd? All?

Looking forward to it's release.
T
All have PWM, currently two have constant current. I am considering going to 4. I couldn't think a reason to need more than 2 CC sources though. Thoughts?
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:01 AM   #203
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Not really. Most of the devices that would be controlled by CC can also be used with PWM.

Maybe the CC can be used as a secondary fail electronic fuse. Limit current not to exceed... like for heated gear. In case wiring shorts out on the heated seat. Or for the external power ports.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:07 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter View Post
Not really. Most of the devices that would be controlled by CC can also be used with PWM.

Maybe the CC can be used as a secondary fail electronic fuse. Limit current not to exceed... like for heated gear. In case wiring shorts out on the heated seat. Or for the external power ports.
CC is not really a very good solution for the fuse failing. A constant 3A will still cause a fire. The fusing cannot be allowed to fail. The CC is mainly for custom LED installs I think. I don't have any other good ideas for using it myself.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:10 AM   #205
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I think you misunderstand my use of the phrase "constant current". I mean a circuit that no matter the impedance will output no more than X amps (you can adjust the value via your mobile phone). This is useful because some gadgets are current limited without regard to the voltage. LEDs are specced at so many amps but almost unconcerned with the voltage and have nearly no impedance. As a result they require you to use a resistor in series to prevent an over current situation. This has the negative side effect of lowering brightness at lower voltages which means you must spec the resistor to the highest expected voltage. This results in an LED being less bright when the bike if off that when its on. A constant current circuit will provide, for example 1 amp, to the LED regardless of voltage.

On the topic of the battery tender, while you could use my device to run power back to the battery, it would have to be "on" so that seems like a not very good plan to me. All the other ideas can easily to accommodated using the standard delay shutoff logic stuff already included on every circuit or the fact that you can keep the device running even when the bike is otherwise off (but you are there to shut it down).

I have not come up with a plan for external indicators. I have 3 LED indicator pads on the board but I've not decided how or even if to use them. I selected 3 because I was considering a single RGB LED on a wire to dash mount. I am undecided on that still.

All the inputs can sense high or low so that isn't an issue.

I looked at the Stebel horns, I didn't see any that would need more than 18A at 12V which translates to about 15.5A at 13.8V. What I could do is allow you to set a time limit on the circuit breaker for those sorts of high current short duration circuits.

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Originally Posted by RocketMoto View Post
Josh...

Coupla thoughts here.

craftycoder screwed with this post 06-28-2013 at 12:09 PM
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:48 AM   #206
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[QUOTE=craftycoder;21466858I have 3 LED indicator pads on the board but I've not decided how or even if to use them. I selected 3 because I was considering a single RGB LED on a wire to dash mount. I am undecided on that still..[/QUOTE]

IMHO a single red/green/yellow remote LED to show battery condition without having to resort getting my phone out would be a good idea.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:42 PM   #207
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Originally Posted by craftycoder View Post
CC is not really a very good solution for the fuse failing. A constant 3A will still cause a fire. The fusing cannot be allowed to fail. The CC is mainly for custom LED installs I think. I don't have any other good ideas for using it myself.
Wasn't thinking of using it in place of fuse. No, fuse stays there.

Was more thinking of using it to prevent fuse from blowing in the first place on outlets that could easily get overloaded or nuisance tripping.

Or as mentioned, battery charging. Just in case ya kill a LiFe battery totally, some quick re-wiring and you could feed a slow charge back in to recover the battery part way before increasing the charge rate. Yes, this is for advanced users only.

Hmmmm.. but thinking along these lines, this could solve a second problem I have been trying to address. I built a large capacity LiFe battery so I can use my bikes battery while at the campsite. While I can drain quite a bit of the battery and still have enough to start the bike, you can't drain it all. Is it possible to use the HighTech fuse block to cut off power to everything when voltage drops to a certain point. I know we talked about shedding loads if the alternator couldn't keep up, this would be shedding all loads when the battery is 75% discharged. This would still leave enough to start the bike the next morning. So basically you are creating a battery reserve within the main battery.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:50 PM   #208
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Yes, that is totally doable. In fact it is easy because it is purely a software fix and I could field update that at my leisure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter View Post
Wasn't thinking of using it in place of fuse. No, fuse stays there.

Was more thinking of using it to prevent fuse from blowing in the first place on outlets that could easily get overloaded or nuisance tripping.

Or as mentioned, battery charging. Just in case ya kill a LiFe battery totally, some quick re-wiring and you could feed a slow charge back in to recover the battery part way before increasing the charge rate. Yes, this is for advanced users only.

Hmmmm.. but thinking along these lines, this could solve a second problem I have been trying to address. I built a large capacity LiFe battery so I can use my bikes battery while at the campsite. While I can drain quite a bit of the battery and still have enough to start the bike, you can't drain it all. Is it possible to use the HighTech fuse block to cut off power to everything when voltage drops to a certain point. I know we talked about shedding loads if the alternator couldn't keep up, this would be shedding all loads when the battery is 75% discharged. This would still leave enough to start the bike the next morning. So basically you are creating a battery reserve within the main battery.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:23 AM   #209
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I may have missed this discussion earlier, but:

Can the unit accept analog input or is it limited to open/closed switches for input? I'm curious if a dial can be set up to control the pwm for heated grips/gear or if this has to be handled by "stepping" to different levels through momentary switch presses.

Can't wait for the kickstarter!
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:05 AM   #210
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In a previous incarnation it did accept analog inputs. The current system accepts digital only (as in high or low) BUT... (in a world exclusive report) I have sketched out a plan to allow serial communication via these inputs so I can put together devices EXACTLY as you are describing where a simple POT could be used to control PWM. I do want to do this, but I'm not sure if it will make it into the Kickstarter version. At this point I want to get these things into peoples hands and get some user feedback to see if I am on the right track.

Quote:
Originally Posted by expressexcess View Post
I may have missed this discussion earlier, but:

Can the unit accept analog input or is it limited to open/closed switches for input? I'm curious if a dial can be set up to control the pwm for heated grips/gear or if this has to be handled by "stepping" to different levels through momentary switch presses.

Can't wait for the kickstarter!
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