Rear v-shaped frame bend... :-(

[Spingse]

Hello everyone!
Making a left turn from standstill i hit a slippery spot and lowsided. This was last year.
Pullling my hair why the bodywork/tankcover on the right side was fitting really poorly i found out why this spring. The tank is being pushed over by the lowest part of the v-shaped rear frame - it´s been bend right where the most front part of the rear footpeg tube attaches.

Everything is explained here:
http://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...t-of-alignment

Now i need to take of the frame and straighten it out and i cant seem to find any good advise on this.

Has anyone tried this and have some advice or do i just go ahead?
Im not technically disabled but i do not want to repat the failures of others.

See you, Martin

(Maybe some reinforcement would be in place, this fragile rear frame is apparently made out of sauerkraut oder germknödel)

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Spingse

Hello everyone!
Making a left turn from standstill i hit a slippery spot and lowsided. This was last year.
Pullling my hair why the bodywork/tankcover on the right side was fitting really poorly i found out why this spring. The tank is being pushed over by the lowest part of the v-shaped rear frame - it´s been bend right where the most front part of the rear footpeg tube attaches.

Everything is explained here:
http://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...t-of-alignment

Now i need to take of the frame and straighten it out and i cant seem to find any good advise on this.

Has anyone tried this and have some advice or do i just go ahead?
Im not technically disabled but i do not want to repat the failures of others.

See you, Martin

(Maybe some reinforcement would be in place, this fragile rear frame is apparently made out of sauerkraut oder germknödel)

Av for helvede da...... After you take the subframe off, you can use a donkraft ( jack) to slowly pry the top sub frame wider. Really dont know, until you get it off. Thats how I will start. They are flimsy....imho.

[Spingse]

A little progress
Been studying the BMW repair manual, according to Spandau you have to:
1: Remove luggagerack/grabhandle/silencer
2: Remove all rear plastic (lights, mudguard and so)
3: Cut all cableties you can see. Unplug tank (hoses and wires) Unplug computer.
4: Remove the frame and the tank together. Then, slide the tank forward to remove from frame..This gave me an idea

Leave the tank on the bike, loosen the frame and slide it backwards! This avoids cutting most of the cableties and spilling gas all over.
Failure or not, there will be pictures.

Hej Erling, if the jack doesn´t work i will bend it over my knee (håber du kan holde varmen derovre, har lige været en måned i Playa del Carmen imens sneen smeltede herhjemme , håber at komme tilbage på to hjul engang)

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Spingse

A little progress
Been studying the BMW repair manual, according to Spandau you have to:
1: Remove luggagerack/grabhandle/silencer
2: Remove all rear plastic (lights, mudguard and so)
3: Cut all cableties you can see. Unplug tank (hoses and wires) Unplug computer.
4: Remove the frame and the tank together. Then, slide the tank forward to remove from frame..This gave me an idea

Leave the tank on the bike, loosen the frame and slide it backwards! This avoids cutting most of the cableties and spilling gas all over.
Failure or not, there will be pictures.

Hej Erling, if the jack doesn´t work i will bend it over my knee (håber du kan holde varmen derovre, har lige været en måned i Playa del Carmen imens sneen smeltede herhjemme , håber at komme tilbage på to hjul engang)

Yeppers...... Den er allerede oppe paa 28 grader i skyggen her i oerkenen..... Puhahh....

[Spingse]

Done! The rear frame is liberated and sits by the remains of the bike. A one and a half hour job. As predicted, the tank does not have to come off - but a lot of other things does. I have pictures, later, I'm done for today.
Regards, Martin.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Spingse

Done! The rear frame is liberated and sits by the remains of the bike. A one and a half hour job. As predicted, the tank does not have to come off - but a lot of other things does. I have pictures, later, I'm done for today.
Regards, Martin.

Skaal......

[Hamish71]

....build new subframe!...like that other thread here somewhere....cant find it.

[Spingse]

So, finally got time to reveal my secrets
I have a ZEGA luggage rack and a custom build mount for a HB topbox but dont let that confuse you. I will try to make it as universal as possible.

Headlines on removing rear frame the easiest way without too much bullsh**:

Tools:
Tx25 (fairings, mudguard etc.)
Tx30 (Tank, under seat)
Tx40 (Handrail/luggage-rack, muffler)
Tx50 (Frame)
Spanner for bolt that holds frame, not much room for a socket. - do not remember size
8mm socket (seat-lock)

Useful links:
Max-BMW fiche: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...6&rnd=08102012
High res complete pictures: Trying to make an online album.. Not there yet

- Remove seat (Ignition key....)

- Remove muffler (Tx40, plyers for the springs)

Remove

Remove rear plastic (Tx 25, Tx 40?(For the rear bolts) not that complicated.
A couple of notes:
-The license plate light is a rubber fitting pushed in to the housing from behind, a light tuck and the complete socket should follow.
- You might not have to remove the rear light/brake LED-housing but it makes the whole plastic part more flexible and easier to remove/mount
-The bolts holding the mudguard are the ones with a washer
- The "lateral body parts" have a part that matches with a recess in the tank and is pushed together. A rubber band/o-ring keeps them together. Mine were deteriorated and needed replacement.

A couple of pictures showing what to look out for:
Washer, narrow side down!


All the "spaghetti" under the plastic in the back, showing the placement of the connections and zip-ties


Two bolts are longer than the others, the ones connecting the mudguard and the rear plastic (picture from right side of bike):

Loosen computer(Tx25, beware of long spacers, mounts collar up) and tank (Tx30)



- Remove brake reservoir (keep it upright - ziptie it to the main-frame somewhere

- Remove seatlock-assembly to access frame-bolts.
Notes: Small plug on the left side slides of the assembly - it has a locking mechanism hidden. (You might skip removing the assembly, the bolts for the frame looks accessible if you have the right tool)



And finally, removing frame:
Notes:
I did not take off the return-hose for the tank, not necessary, but notice how the lower right leg of the frame goes thru the loop if you want to reassemble at some point.



Thats all - happy disassembling, folks!

Regards, Martin

[Spingse]

Just a minor update on the condition of the frame.
The frame was clearly bent where the rear part of the passenger footpeg attaches.
I borrowed a shop press to straighten it out, but it took almost no force to do it, it could probably have been done in a vice without too much trouble. Be careful not to make dents - the tubing is very soft.

First, i straighened the bent part, then I took the measurements from the attachment points on the main frame and matched the rear frame with these.

The frame is powder coated and the coating was cracked - i just sanded the area around the cracking and gave it some primer and some matte black from a can.

A before picture:



Not only was the rear frame bent, but it was also twisted..
I attribute this to the fact that i was carrying three times the recommended weight in my top box. The position of the top box acted as a lever that amplified the force inflicted on the foot peg and also twisting the whole frame.
I am still surprised of the tenous design of the frame.

Regards, Martin

[Trailblazin]

Easy fix: have the insurance company total it out for having frame damage and theyll give you a nice big check to go buy a new bike.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by Trailblazin

Easy fix: have the insurance company total it out for having frame damage and theyll give you a nice big check to go buy a new bike.

The Danish Taksator, I dont think will total the bike as easy as they do in the states.

[Spingse]

In Denmark we pay ALOT! of taxes, especially on motorbikes.
The taxing increases exponentially on bikes.
Estimated as remembered and in USD:

0-200 USD: 0%
200-2000 USD: 105%
2000-> : 180%

A new F700GS is listed for 23.500 USD

You can do alot of work before the bike is totalled, a new rear frame is 995 USD

Regards, Martin

[Loutre]

Originally Posted by Spingse

In Denmark we pay ALOT! of taxes, especially on motorbikes.
The taxing increases exponentially on bikes.
Estimated as remembered and in USD:

0-200 USD: 0%
200-2000 USD: 105%
2000-> : 180%

A new F700GS is listed for 23.500 USD

You can do alot of work before the bike is totalled, a new rear frame is 995 USD

Regards, Martin

Well lucky you germany is right next to you where the parts are cheaper than USD :o)