Another R80gls build, just slower

[Ghilli]

Hi Everyone

I've allready started the rebuild of my 1981 R80g/s, but with the amout of hours I've allready put in I feel I should share some of it, even if it is only to see my own photos.

So here goes, this was my g/s in one piece 2 years back, it is in about 200 pieces right now.



I needed to replace the oil pump seal as it started to leak too much, wich I left as it is quite a big job. So in the process of removing the gearbox I decided I might as well do the whole thing (complete motorcycle I mean), and an hour after my well thought trough plan...

[jellycow]

Now, that's a way to enter Advrider!
Start looks good, can't wait to see the next steps.

[Clay Spinner]

Nice start! Take lots of photos... I@ll be doing the same thing soon enough.

[scalpel]

Ghilli fortunately you are an engineer!!!

[Ghilli]

Even though I am one I still needed to overcome my three fears:

-Removing the gearbox
-Disconnecting every single wire and cable
-Removing the barrels and pistons
-Welding to the frame

Ok four









Obviously I had to wash it in the kitchen.

[scalpel]

Ghilli daar is baie ouens in die Kaap wat jou kan help raam versterk. Goeie welders. There is a few guys in Cape Town that can help you with frame welding. With good experience. Send me a pm for more details. Stuur groete vir Koos. Send regards to your brother.

[scalpel]

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?board=132.0

Local South African site.

[Ghilli]

Re-enforcing the frame looks really nice, but its too late for me now. I just fixed up the original frame and made a center stand out of three retired ones. Got that powder coated with a few other parts, and it came out really well, relatively cheap too.

This is the subframe with a piece torn out that I repaired.



I attached a new battery mount to the frame.



And repaired the damage the center stand made, those plugs are important.



Set up the frame to see if everything fits, before I need to bend any coated finished parts.



And here is my center stand made from old dead ones.

[Ghilli]

Next up was the driveshaft, I took the original and a slightly less worn out shaft and swapped the bell housing. This was probably unnecessary, but the road going thrust adapter definitely had less wear than the one one the g/s.



The thrust adapter on the g/s lost that totally round profile and "sharpens" when it wears.





This called for some high tech tools, so I made me a high tech tool.

[Ghilli]

Not a lot of photos, but I wanted to try and do DIY nickel plating on all the bolts that are "special". All the other standard bolts will be replaced by new stainless steel bolts.



The plating came out very nice, I hope its durable as well. These are the plated rear shock bolts, the photobomb bolt on the left is a new stainless bolt, the unpolished plated bolts shines more than brand new bolts. I made those small spacers to reduce the hole size compared to the bolt, there was quite allot of play on the rear bolts.



This is a spacer inside the bolt hole on the swing arm.

[Ghilli]

Here's a cool photo for no reason whatsoever.



This actually gives you a good idea of areas to avoid when installing a wiring harness, there really isn't enough space to just route it anywhere.

[Ghilli]

Bad news time, I've seen this allot on the internot, now I have one as well.





The hub is out of its wear limit and looks like someone forced it off and started a nice crack, I was riding like this without knowing I was about 10 seconds away from death all the time.

[Clay Spinner]

Nice post... just a question... how does one measure the wear limit?

[goatroper]

Originally Posted by Ghilli

[



Obviously I had to wash it in the kitchen.

You know about the thrust washers on the crank, yes?

[Ghilli]

Originally Posted by Clay Spinner

Nice post... just a question... how does one measure the wear limit?

In the back of the manual it says that the max permitted wear on the drum is 201.5mm, that is the inner diameter of the hub which I measured with a large vernier. If you look closely you can see its a steel band that is cast inside the aluminium hub.

Only problem is, this is the data for a 4 bolt hub and not the older 3 bolt, not sure if it is the same for both models.