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Old 09-28-2012, 03:42 PM   #16
disston
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Price sounds fine to me for 52,000 mile machine.

An exhaust nut wrench will be needed sooner than later. The pipe you mention with a pin hole in it costs a hundred dollars, or there abouts. There are many options when it comes to exhaust wrenches. This one has the advantage of being able to be carried on the bike but then you still need the breaker bar to use it. Check out some other options too.

http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?...roducts_id=346



Then there's this one;
http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Tools.html



The original BMW tool is hard to find, expensive and made of heavy cast iron. It's my favorite but I don't have a picture. Sorry.
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:08 PM   #17
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Disston, you're practically a library. I saw the Northwoods one and figured I'll probably order it. What I'm hung up on is the carbs. It has the black labels so I'm assuming it might be hard to make it run great. I'll have about $500 off the bat to blow on it, but I'm not sure I want to dump all that into Mikunis.

Hell, I still don't know what I'm going to do with the thing. I might get overzealous and tear it all down. I hope I can avoid that.
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:49 PM   #18
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It may not be the carbs.

Firstly, it's worth cleaning them out anyway, but I wouldn't do anything major to them until other things had been tried first, but a quick check of the diaphragms would be worthwhile.

Back in the day I had an R75/5 with a maddening problem. It would run ok for a while - like several hundred miles - and then just become cantankerous at low revs. I would check the cleanliness of carbs etc but they would usually only have a little dirt in them (the bike did most of its mileage on dirt roads). I diagnosed the problem to be a loose bit of dirt stuck in the jets somewhere that would get sucked into the jet, stay there for a while, and then drop down. No amount of searching found it, and I must have had the cleanest carbs in Oz.

Then one day as I was doing a U-turn in front of a truck, the bike just died. I only just avoided the same process. :)

I'd long since given up using the starter motor because it had been barely able to turn the engine over, even with a new battery - this should have been a major clue.

The problem was as simple as the earth lead. Where it attaches to the engine, the lead had gradually been breaking, strand by strand, just inside the insulation. Even though I cleaned and polished the bike regularly, this break was invisible to the eye.

A quick roadside repair and suddenly my starter motor was back to full strength, and the bike started idling and running like a new one.

Since then I have always looked to electrical system first anytime I have had what seem to be carburettor problems, and in most cases it is electrical.

Anyhow hope this helps, and that bike is a great bargain.
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:50 PM   #19
disston
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I'm always surprised when a new Airhead owner gets this machine he knows very little about and the first thing he does is takes it all apart for "Restoration". So I am against that. The bike is designed to be worked on as it is. Some parts, if need be, can be taken off but 90% of anything this bikes needs to get it running will be done before the frame is painted. If you get my drift.

If the carbs have the plastic black labels on the sides they are later carbs. This is a popular way to fix a problem the original carbs had. They can probably be made to work just fine. There are some numbers on the side plates. They will be of the order 64/32/??(?) The last digits being either two or three digits. Those numbers will tell us what they are. However they could have started out as R80 or R100 carbs and the jets will have to be examined. So when you get them off, start by telling us what the numbers are and then take one of them apart. Using a magnifying glass look at the numbers on the jets.

You are going to have to use a parts microfisch to tell which jets are which. And I want you to use the correct names for things in the carbs. I'm on a life long mission to get everyone here to use the correct names for stuff in the Bing carbs. Our carbs do not have Pilot Jets. They do not have Air Screws and they do not have Chokes. Just to name a few.

Learn to use this web site, you have to go through a few pages to get to 1...Motorcycles, 2...Archive, 3...find your model. Then enter the data till you get to the carbs. Learn to use this site first. There will be others;

http://realoem.com/bmw/

There is a place on Real OEM dot Com to enter the serial number and it will tell you when the bike was made. It looks to me like it is most definitely a /5 and because of the tank it is one of the last produced. Those tanks look like the /6 tank but they do not have the space for the brake master cylinder. Unless that really is a /6 tank. But still other things say the bike is a /5.

Hopefully $500 will be enough to get this thing going. It should be but there are several expensive things you have not been able to check. 1...Compression on the cylinders would be a indication of the health of the engine and weather or not it needed any immediate internal parts. Engine work would eat up your $500 really quick. 2...Transmission repair comes to the Airheads awfully early sometimes. The trans are rather clunky but there are a number of things that we don't like to see at any time. The main thing being anything more than paste on the drain plug. No metallic particles allowed when the oil is drained. 3...Engine oil leaks bother everybody but they are usually an easy fix. Oil leaks from the trans or the final drive can be more expensive.

Have you made a deal for this bike? And when are you bringing her home to show to Momma?
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:04 PM   #20
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Thanks for steering me away from a tear down. I'll get the carb numbers once it's home and go from there, but the bike runs strong once warm, so I don't think much more than a good cleaning is required for now, but I want to get an idea of how everything is doing. I'll lube everything, replace fluids, new air filter, and go from there I suppose. Still wondering what the hole is beside the dipstick. Pictures I've seen show what looks like a rubber plug in there.

My buddy will be home on the 5th. I'm gonna take my bike up to his house, he gives me $500 and a /5, and I leave the Honda. I'm certain it's a /5, just unsure of which year, 72 or 73.

Electrics seem strong, but seems like the fairing-mounted headlight isn't working. Starter cranks well, not sure on the charging yet.

Could the link pipe (what is this actually called?) between the headers just have the pinhole(s) repaired and then I ceramic coat the entire exhaust system?
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:34 PM   #21
disston
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If you take a Volt Ohm Meter (VOM) with you you can check if the charging system is working. A non working charging system is one thing that could prevent a good start with a new bike.

How many miles to get home?

Is there a manual coming with the bike? You might as well get that if non is with the bike. The Clymers is a little more complete with more pictures I think.

You've got the right idea. There will be stuff that pops up that needs fixing.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
If you take a Volt Ohm Meter (VOM) with you you can check if the charging system is working. A non working charging system is one thing that could prevent a good start with a new bike.

How many miles to get home?

Is there a manual coming with the bike? You might as well get that if non is with the bike. The Clymers is a little more complete with more pictures I think.

You've got the right idea. There will be stuff that pops up that needs fixing.
I've got a pretty nice VOM that I absolutely cannot find, but I'll dig it up. 20 miles home, buddy said he'd follow me on the ride home. I'll order the Clymer right away, then probably the Bing manual, and the Haynes and BMW manuals if I hit a snag I can't find a solution to.
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:28 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by assquatch20 View Post
Disston, you're practically a library.
+1

Every thread he posts in, he posts a wealth of information. I'm impressed.
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:39 PM   #24
disston
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Thanks guys. But a lot of it is an act. There are people know much better and much more than I do.

Charlie
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:35 PM   #25
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There are people know much better and much more than I do.
I'd sure like to get them in this thread if that's the case. Which forum would be the best to join up with? I have tried two separate email accounts and BMWOA still won't work right for me. Would I be fine to stay here?
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:23 PM   #26
disston
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By all means stay here. I don't know the problem with BMWMOA. I'm not sure I belong to it tho. There is IBMWR, I think I belong to that one and then there is the Airheads on the Micapeak channel. The Airheads is the only one you need to be careful on. They can be nice and sometimes they can be brutal. The Gurus are on the Airheads site. It is not set up like this forum but is run through Email only.

Find the Airheads at this Web site;

http://micapeak.com/
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:24 PM   #27
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advrider is "where it's at." Stay here.
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:56 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
advrider is "where it's at." Stay here.
It's what I hear. I want to get all angles of advice, but I think I'm already overwhelmed just googling stuff. People really love these things.

Anyway, I'm just glad I have an obvious thing to do first. Line the tank, rebuild/replace petcocks, fuel lines, filters, rebuild carbs, then I get a little lost. Fluids, lubes, timing, points, cables, and while all that's going on I start skipping ahead to powdercoating stuff and how much beer fits in a Wixom.

I was hoping for some list-to-end-all-lists of what to do, but I suppose that is a bit unreasonable.
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:57 AM   #29
Renner
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+1 disston's recommendation to ride it, restore later.
Typically the airheads respond well to use... with neglect they become disconsolate

but really, save your money for what's necessary as you become comfortable with the bike's nature.
once it's quite familiar then going deep benefits from the understanding.
I'd strive for more riding, wrenching when necessary till the bike feels well-sorted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by assquatch20 View Post
Still wondering what the hole is beside the dipstick. ?
'haven't seen this addressed: that's the window for viewing the flywheel timing marks and yes, it takes a rubber plug (OEM) or wine-bottle cork (Muscat) or what-have-you. There's another small weep-hole above it that drains the starter recess.. not to worry unless things start gushing or crawling out of that(!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by assquatch20 View Post
Could the link pipe (what is this actually called?) between the headers just have the pinhole(s) repaired and then I ceramic coat the entire exhaust system?
You're in luck! that header crossover pipe can be repaired-replaced using a bathroom sink drainpipe or vacuum cleaner wand cut to length. Works like a charm for pennies.

I'm not seeing enough pics in this thread
This should be addressed pronto
And at the price mentioned, I would jump on that bike like a cinema hero on a grenade.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:02 AM   #30
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Just get the thing cleaned up and running reasonably well before you start "remaking" the darn thing !!! Valves, ignition timing , snug the carb tubes then adjust and synch. Then the other stuff.

Don't sweat the pinhole in the crossover pipe, or the hole by the dipstick. That the view into the flywheel which you will use for valves and ignition timing. Yes there is supposed to be a plastic plug in it.

You'll probably come to love the bike. They are great little Kraut Tractors.
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