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Old 10-11-2012, 08:57 AM   #61
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Great job there, Hank. I hope I can pull off something that pretty. If only I could paint now.
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Old 10-11-2012, 04:54 PM   #62
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Okay, the engine and frame #'s are matching, and the registry shows it being made in 12/1972. It's got the extension for LWB, a 64/32/3 on the left, and a 64/32/4 on the right. I made a video but the filetype is wrong. I'll see if I can convert it or just get pictures tomorrow.

Does anything sound weird about the LWB for that date, and are the carbs right for the era? From what I understand these are the ones nobody wants, but I'll do what I can with them for now.

EDIT: I really can't apologize enough for how terrible I am with any camera, but here's something. I got the carb number wrong on the first look, and hadn't got the production date yet.

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Old 10-11-2012, 06:48 PM   #63
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Supposedly the carbs can be made to work. Several members have piped up when somebody ranted about getting rid of them that they still ran the 3s & 4s. Others found it more expedient to find something else.
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:26 PM   #64
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Well I got the luggage off and the right side luggage bracket was still interfering with the seat just a hair I think, so I removed it, but I'm still seeing an odd setup. The rear hinge is larger than the front, and will just hoop out of the way, but I'm having to remove the front one to get the seat all the way off to investigate. I started on it and got angry at the dim lighting, so I'll probably pick up on it tomorrow.

EDIT: I got antsy and separated the hinge from the seat. The rear hook looks to be bent, and not lined up with its tab thus it moved freely, and missing the lock, so the little lock post and one hinge is why it flopped around a bit. Not sure if I can make the bent rear work, but finding a lock would be nice. Is Denfeld the stock seat? That's what's on there.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:00 AM   #65
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Denfield is the OEM seat. Doesn't mean you have the correct one or the original I guess. The seat hinges are funky. OEM seat hinges go for a good bit of change, used. I don't think they are even available anymore, or at least one of them is not available. The stamped steel hinges, after market, are pretty common. They have an advantage of being a little more bendable.

I had only had one hinge on the repo seat of my bike for years. It was the front one. I now have a recovered original seat and it has only one hinge, on the rear. When I used the front hinge it was a lift off seat. Now with the rear hinge I have a tilt seat but I have to remove the right side bag to make that work.

I think I prefer the lift off seat style. Tilt seats don't want to stay and they fall down. A lift off can just be set aside.
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:35 PM   #66
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I think I prefer the lift off seat style. Tilt seats don't want to stay and they fall down. A lift off can just be set aside.
Yeah, I've noticed it's a not really upright even when it's tilted up and doesn't want to stay upright at all. If I could afford the new tractor Denfelds or find a Teutonic cheap, that would be great. The Denfeld feels very slick and I sit unusually high. I might be able to straighten the rear hinge out, but we'll see.

For now, I need to be ordering a Bing manual and a Clymer, along with rebuild kits, fuel lines and some tank liner, but college ain't the cheapest thing. It might be on hold until January if I can't find some work.
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:43 PM   #67
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I recently became unemployed. Have to now think of things with a different view. Cosmetic stuff will wait. I'll need the bike I'm sure and it's almost Winter too.
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:44 PM   #68
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Okie dokie, another video.


I know it's not the most exciting subject material for you guys, but any advice is greatly appreciated with this stuff. I'll be ordering the tools, books, and incidentals soon so I can get down to inspection, and a local airhead mechanic said he'd try to drop in tomorrow and have a look. There's no shops locally (that I know of) so most of my purchases will be in the mail and most of my advice will have to come from this desk.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:00 PM   #69
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Congrats on your new bike! I had a '72 SWB. Much smoother than my '74 90/6.
The seat is not stock or was recovered with a newer style seat cover. The horns are awesome! it's great to be able to wake the assshat in the BMW with the phone on.
The carbs are not hard to rebuild. they look stock to me.
Judging from the comments re the idling I'd say the pilot jets are clogged. You can get some carb soaking solution from NAPA and soak everything that's not rubber then blow it out with compressed air. The diaphrams on the top of the carb are a bitch to get back together so if there are no holes in them I'd leave them for now.
You can get more performance out of a pair of Mikunis but they're pricey.
The Avon fairing is worth something- you can call Bob's BMW in Maryland and ask them about it-they sell a lot of used parts. They'd have a different seat but the Denfield solos are pricey too.
They or a number of places have used parts like signals if you want original.
It's a good bike- probably the most reliable vintage ride. I rode mine all over the place, rarely had a problem.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:06 PM   #70
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When you shoot video pull back a little and stay on the area you want to show. The video jumps around too fast to see some details.
The signal indicator is stock. The up position on the headlight should be the hi beam. If you push down on the switch it flashes the hi beam for indicating passing. Do a search online for the the /5's- lots of info including schematics and manuals.
I'm a bit jealous
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:19 PM   #71
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AssQ,
Most folks back in those days put the bar backs on for a more upright setting position, esp with a full fairing. I imagine the fairing and handlebars would work with stock bar mounts.
The ignition plunger key, when you push it down, turn it right or left. I think left gives you ignition on with headlights, right gives you ignition on with parking light. On both my /5s I have replaced the stock ignition switch with Rocky Points keyed ignition switch conversion.
I'm pretty sure you have a later edition seat. That might be why the hinges don't line up. Or maybe PO bent them to remove the seat. As I recall to remove the correct seat you had to use an allen wrench to remove a seat hinge. Pain in the butt. My stock seat does well with no hinges, and I just push the button and lift it off.
I made a solo seat by cutting a stock seat down and had a seat guy make a cover for it. Looks just like a Denfield solo police seat. You could take that seat apart, and cut the pan, and the foam and have a cover made.
Those carbs, my guess is that someone sometime switched the carbs. One of my /5s I am second owner of, and have had it since '74. It has carbs with silver plate and these numbers: left 64/32/9 and right 64/32/10. My Curey Toaster I posted a pic of, I replaced its original carbs with a set I bought off ebay, with black covers and the same numbers you have. I'm not sure what the issue is with these carbs, but they seem to work for me.
If you need turn signals I prolly have some in my junk boxes.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:28 PM   #72
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Penetrating oil

OH, and don't forget to use pentrating oil librally, ESPECIALLY on those exhaust nuts, seat hinges, etc. Very often those exhaust nuts will strip out the threads. While you are waiting on the wrench every day give 'em a spray! Don't force them once you get the wrench. You may ruin the threads.
On my Curey Toaster the pipes were completely rusted, and the left exhaust nut would not break loose. It took me about 2 weeks of spraying oil and tapping the nut with the wrench on it before it broke loose. If I had forced it it likely would have taken the theads off with the nut. Some people just cut the nut with a dremel and break it open.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:37 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by pfestus1 View Post
AssQ,
Most folks back in those days put the bar backs on for a more upright setting position, esp with a full fairing. I imagine the fairing and handlebars would work with stock bar mounts.

The ignition plunger key, when you push it down, turn it right or left. I think left gives you ignition on with headlights, right gives you ignition on with parking light. On both my /5s I have replaced the stock ignition switch with Rocky Points keyed ignition switch conversion.

I'm pretty sure you have a later edition seat. That might be why the hinges don't line up. Or maybe PO bent them to remove the seat. As I recall to remove the correct seat you had to use an allen wrench to remove a seat hinge. Pain in the butt. My stock seat does well with no hinges, and I just push the button and lift it off.

I made a solo seat by cutting a stock seat down and had a seat guy make a cover for it. Looks just like a Denfield solo police seat. You could take that seat apart, and cut the pan, and the foam and have a cover made.
Those carbs, my guess is that someone sometime switched the carbs. One of my /5s I am second owner of, and have had it since '74. It has carbs with silver plate and these numbers: left 64/32/9 and right 64/32/10. My Curey Toaster I posted a pic of, I replaced its original carbs with a set I bought off ebay, with black covers and the same numbers you have. I'm not sure what the issue is with these carbs, but they seem to work for me.
If you need turn signals I prolly have some in my junk boxes.
I guess the PO was a little shorter. I'd like to be hunkered in just a bit to keep that buffeting away.

When I push the key in and turn it, the instrument lights just turn off, nothing else. Once I rotate it back to 6 o'clock, it pops out. I might have to replace the switch.

The seat lines up, I just think the rear hinge is bent. It doesn't fully contact the pan as if someone yanked on the seat real hard. It requires the allen wrench for removal like you mentioned. I'll have to look around for options to replace it, and I'll probably paint the pan and replace the trim once I'm not using it. I'd like to build up some spares for use.

I'm going to keep the carbs unless some newer ones just fall into my lap, but I will replace the enrichener cable with a newer one during the cleaning/rebuild. From what I can tell, that's part of the problem with the early ones.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:42 PM   #74
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OEM turn signals for /5 are the Aluminum body ones. In 1975 they switched to the black plastic which are not half as cool.


Because they are only a couple of years the Aluminum ones go for about $50 each on the used market. Sometimes a little more or less.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:56 PM   #75
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OEM turn signals for /5 are the Aluminum body ones. In 1975 they switched to the black plastic which are not half as cool.


Because they are only a couple of years the Aluminum ones go for about $50 each on the used market. Sometimes a little more or less.
Could definitely use a set of those sooner or later. I'm looking at what I'd need to rebuild the Germa petcocks. Are there any parts no longer available for them/would I be better off replacing them? From what I can make of Hucky's parts list, I can rebuild both for the price of one.

What do I need to improve the 'blackface' Bings?
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