ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-22-2012, 02:14 PM   #1
itinerant OP
Adventurer
 
itinerant's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: New York City, VT
Oddometer: 70
R80 ST - What to look for, what to upgrade?

Hi all,

Having heard such wonderful things about them, I've been keeping my eyes peeled for an R80 ST over the last couple years, and the stars have finally aligned - there's one for sale nearby, and I actually have the cash to buy it. The bike has very low miles (under 10k), but is not running. The owner says it's been outside for the better part of two years, and when he went to get it ready for selling, he found water in the crankcase. I haven't been out to see the bike yet; we've arranged a time in about a week, but I've seen a few pictures, and am pretty confident that I want to buy it. I just wanted to post the question of what I should be looking for, and if there was water in the sump, how worried should I be? It's not seized. I'm perfectly happy to rebuild carbs, get a new battery, improve electrics, etc., but I'm wondering if I'm likely to need a top-end rebuild, and what else? I'd like to avoid that slippery slope, or at least know what I'm in for. Shall I bring a compression tester with me, and if so, what results am I looking for?

Any advice will be much appreciated. If I buy the bike, I'll definitely be asking about what to upgrade on it. My focus is on getting it running really well and ready to take me on long trips - not at all on making it look nice. I live in New York City, so I'd just as soon NOT have it be a shiny target.

Thanks!
itinerant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2012, 06:16 PM   #2
spo123
Man About Town
 
spo123's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: North Shore Mass. USA
Oddometer: 660
Cool2 could be good.....or.....bad...

Just plan on an engine swap, at the begining....Then rebuild, as necessary.
__________________
spo
1973 /5 LWB Toaster
spo123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2012, 07:09 PM   #3
Renner
infamous wrench
 
Renner's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: sunny SoCal
Oddometer: 2,002
water, water everywhere

drop the carburetor float bowls and check for signs of water
drain the gearbox oil and check for the tell-tale emulsification milkshake
sure, go ahead and do the same for the final drive. no need to drain it all, just enough to get a sense of what's inside.

my buddy bought a set of forks.. whole front end... one side had internal corrosion due to water.

I was looking at an R80G/S that sat outside a while.
With the spark plugs removed you can look inside the cylinder... use a penlight.
Do you see water?
I did.

my R80ST ?

Rode it for a while... compression ok... leak-down test revealed ring issues at the left cylinder.
Subsequent top-end overhaul revealed broken second compression ring that side and... pitted Nikasil cylinder walls due water loitering there sometime in the past.

Who knows, maybe this one isn't so bad.
Is the owner making it worth your while?
__________________
"If you want to fix it with a rock, you have to stick to stone-age technology" -Anton
"...solving the latest crisis that is preventing my Airhead from taking me to the bar." -Beater-

Renner screwed with this post 09-22-2012 at 07:16 PM
Renner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2012, 07:45 PM   #4
itinerant OP
Adventurer
 
itinerant's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: New York City, VT
Oddometer: 70
whoa

That depends on what you mean by "worth my while". He's asking around 2,000 for it.

I'll certainly look for all those things, and know exactly what you mean by the "emulsification milkshake". I honestly don't mind doing a top end rebuild / valve job, with potentially a cylinder honing and re-ring. I don't mind rebuilding the forks, I've done that before too. I have all the tools for those jobs, and if I buy it for 2,000, don't mind throwing another 1,000 (or even 2,000) at getting it running right. I guess what I'm wondering is, 'is that reasonable, or should I run screaming in the other direction'?

I should say that I put a deposit on a new F650 GS, and am just waiting for the dealer to call and make me decide. I guess the way I feel is, I'd rather spend $4,000 on an R80 ST, which is classy and reliable, than 10,000 on an F650, which is not at all classy, and reliable. In other words, am I crazy to think that this bike could be a rock solid daily rider/long distance light tourer?
itinerant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2012, 09:13 PM   #5
Renner
infamous wrench
 
Renner's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: sunny SoCal
Oddometer: 2,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by itinerant View Post
In other words, am I crazy to think that this bike could be a rock solid daily rider/long distance light tourer?
IMO, not at all.
the long distance part... problem is they're geared a little low for that, which may hurt your mileage if you're in a hurry.

any properly sorted "airhead" could be a rock solid daily rider/long distace tourer.
The R80ST may be a little more versatile in a dirt friendly street bike sort of way, but mileage is not its long suit.
__________________
"If you want to fix it with a rock, you have to stick to stone-age technology" -Anton
"...solving the latest crisis that is preventing my Airhead from taking me to the bar." -Beater-

Renner screwed with this post 09-22-2012 at 09:19 PM
Renner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 05:06 AM   #6
itinerant OP
Adventurer
 
itinerant's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: New York City, VT
Oddometer: 70
Miles

That makes sense. Thanks for the input. Since the biggest bike I've ever put any highway miles on is a KLR 650, I'm willing to bet the BMW gearing feels fine to me, at least at first. I'm not a huge fan of highway riding, anyway.

Here are some photos of the bike.

Anyone have any thoughts about street focused dual sport tires? I've got Shinko 705s on the KLR, which I love, but I can't find them in the sizes for the ST. I ride almost entirely pavement with the occasional dirt road. I'm never very heavily loaded, and really don't pass 70 mph on the highway.





itinerant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 05:26 AM   #7
Mark Manley
On my way
 
Mark Manley's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Back home in the UK
Oddometer: 598
Quote:
Originally Posted by itinerant View Post
I'll certainly look for all those things, and know exactly what you mean by the "emulsification milkshake". I honestly don't mind doing a top end rebuild / valve job, with potentially a cylinder honing and re-ring.
You won't be able to hone it as it has nikasil barrels but hopfully a re-ring will suffice.

As for long distance tourer it depends on how fast and on what type of roads you travels on, it is certainly no K1600 but at a steady pace, up to 70 mph on ordinary roads it will take you as far as you want to go.

The extra disc has been added later, I have done this to my G/S and is a wothwhile extra, as for front tyres I would suggest a pair of Avon Distanzias, I run them on my G/S and with steady riding get 8-9,000 miles from a rear and they do 19 inch front in 100 and 110.

Here is luggage manufacturer Al Jesse with his R80S/T which took him to many places and was the test bike for some of his products. A great all round bike.


__________________
If it's in the Touratech catalogue then you don't need it

"You've got to think for yourselves! You're all individuals!"-Brian of Nazareth

Mark Manley screwed with this post 09-23-2012 at 07:57 AM Reason: more info
Mark Manley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 06:22 AM   #8
Renner
infamous wrench
 
Renner's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: sunny SoCal
Oddometer: 2,002
Quote:
Originally Posted by itinerant View Post
I ride almost entirely pavement with the occasional dirt road. I'm never very heavily loaded, and really don't pass 70 mph on the highway.

AFAIK no R80ST left the factory with dual disc brakes, that's special.

It sounds as though the bike would suit you nicely. Have you seen these threads?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391063&highlight=R80ST+registry

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=418019&highlight=R80ST+registry

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350434&highlight=r80st+dual+sport

there are not a lot of dual sport options in 19" for your front tire, consequently there's a fair amount of discussion around that.
Probably the ST doesn't push the off-pavement envelope so hard that tread is a critical consideration(?)
I've recently been running a Dunlop K70 which sort of looks agressive but is a street tire, and haven't found it inadequate.

That bike looks very appealing. Hopefully the price is too.
If you have the time and means to maintain it, you may find it giving greater returns than the F650.
__________________
"If you want to fix it with a rock, you have to stick to stone-age technology" -Anton
"...solving the latest crisis that is preventing my Airhead from taking me to the bar." -Beater-

Renner screwed with this post 09-23-2012 at 06:30 AM
Renner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 09:02 AM   #9
England-Kev
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Berkshire, England. Just off the Beaten Track!
Oddometer: 3,404
Blimey, that looks ready to run, I can see no way that that has been left outside for two years, I also doubt there is water in the motor

I hope you have that at home now before someone else grabs it
England-Kev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 09:12 AM   #10
England-Kev
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Berkshire, England. Just off the Beaten Track!
Oddometer: 3,404
Some advice...

From the top.

Remove the tank, and flush out with clean fuel.
Remove the fuel taps and clean the filters.
clean the carbs
change all oils (do not change oil filter at this time)
new tyres and tubes
new battery
new plugs (fire a little oil down the bore while the plugs are out) rest plugs on cylinders so they are shorted out at electrode, and turn the motor over, this will help circulate the oil before start up. (plugs must be shorted out)
Add new fuel
refit plugs
full choke
ignition on, check oil light is on
and fire it up (now oil light should go out)

Run it for a few days before changing the engine oil again, and this time change the filter too

Have fun, ask questions.
England-Kev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 01:30 PM   #11
squish
Out of the office.
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Where the Ghetto meets the sea.
Oddometer: 5,926
It wouldn't hurt to drop the oil pan, clean it up and make sure the pick up is bolted on solid.

on new to me bikes, I flush out all the old fluids, just so I know what's been done.
I also go in and clean all the major electrical connections and make sure the bike has good grounds.

That helps solve a lot of funky issues right off the bat.

Good luck

Oh yea and the stock tank for me was only good for about 110 miles to reserve.
__________________
On vacation for a spell
squish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 03:22 PM   #12
itinerant OP
Adventurer
 
itinerant's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: New York City, VT
Oddometer: 70
Thumb Great!

Wow, thanks for all the input, guys, I really I appreciate it.

Renner -> my research showed the same: that no ST came with dual discs, but that the forks supported an easy addition of a second one. I've also read around that it isn't really necessary, but hey, why not!

England-Kev -> thanks for the list! That's very helpful. I've read before that it's important to ground the plugs if they're not in the cylinders. Why is that? Does it hurt the coils if you don't? Also: it's true that it looks good, but the owner swears it was outside a bunch, and that he found water in the crankcase. Anyway, I'm going to pick it up next Sunday (out of town for work until then).

squish -> thanks for the advice. Flushing the fluids seems like a good idea, but I'm not sure I would've thought of it.I'll be ok with 110 miles to reserve for the time being, but would like to find a 100GS tank to throw on there. They're damn expensive on eBay, though!

So what's a good source for airhead bits like gaskets, oil seals, bearings, carb kits, oils, etc? I'm used to buying stuff from Dime City Cycles for my Honda, but they don't carry beemer stuff, as far as I can tell.
itinerant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 07:26 PM   #13
One Less Harley
OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT
 
One Less Harley's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Bowling Green, Ky
Oddometer: 4,610
Quote:
Originally Posted by squish View Post
It wouldn't hurt to drop the oil pan, clean it up and make sure the pick up is bolted on solid.

on new to me bikes, I flush out all the old fluids, just so I know what's been done.
I also go in and clean all the major electrical connections and make sure the bike has good grounds.

That helps solve a lot of funky issues right off the bat.

Good luck
.
yeah what he said!!!
__________________
2004 BMW R1150RS
1984 BMW R80G/S
(wrenching index)
2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S (TAT Prep)
One More DRZ does the TAT (Ride Report)

One Less Harley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 07:45 PM   #14
Renner
infamous wrench
 
Renner's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: sunny SoCal
Oddometer: 2,002
your local dealer is often a good resource.

Go here,
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/index.html
select parts, fiche, and bottom center insert the serial number to bring up the illustrated parts catalog for your bike.
the prices listed are fairly current and accurate.

you have a "neighbor" who recently had a lot of work done there on his R80ST.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745609

there are plenty of independent suppliers.
Hans "Hucky" Lowe is popular: http://www.bmwhucky.com/

have you bought this bike yet?
__________________
"If you want to fix it with a rock, you have to stick to stone-age technology" -Anton
"...solving the latest crisis that is preventing my Airhead from taking me to the bar." -Beater-
Renner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2012, 08:26 PM   #15
subagon
Hopelessly lost
 
subagon's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Antioch, FL
Oddometer: 568
FYI, I bought a ST last year with a bad transmission. I replaced 5th gear with a taller one that should reduce the RPMs around 5% when in 5th. It's a $200 part and I won't have done it just to reduce the RPMs, but since I was in the gearbox anyway...
__________________
Mike
Antioch, FL - Hopelessly lost, but making good time
Bike picts
subagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 12:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014