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Old 12-25-2012, 06:57 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphy Slaw View Post
I read about this mod being done a lot, but have never read about them actually breaking. This would seem to be a major liability for the big "K" if they do indeed break off during travel. Does it happen often, or is it just preventive?

Great thread, by the way.
Yes, it does happen occasionally.

I think the problem starts as a loose bolt and then the soft bolt breaks once movement starts occurring.

So, if you make sure the 4 bolts never loosen there should not be a problem.

By installing the one long bolt and nut through the upper mounting in place of the 2 individual small bolts it just pretty much makes it bulletproof.

It is also easier removing the rear subframe because you can get it ready to remove and then reach over and pull the long through bolt last.
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:04 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byork86 View Post
I just did the subframe bolts on my bike last week simply because I was already ordering parts from HT and it was $5 (only 2 bolts need replaced on '08+). Took about 3 minutes. I don't usually have a heavy load, but after seeing pictures of bikes that failed, I don't ever want to be in that situation
I don't think there is a difference in the mod between the Gen 1 & Gen 2 bikes.

You did the bolt upgrade, which is only a harder grade bolt.If they ever loosen they could still break.

The more involved mod is drilling through the 2 upper bolts and installing 1 long bolt and nut.

The Gen 2 bike did get bigger upper bolts from the factory,but I still prefer the drill through for piece of mind and don't have to worry about them loosening up.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:29 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
The Gen 2 bike did get bigger upper bolts from the factory,but I still prefer the drill through for piece of mind and don't have to worry about them loosening up.

Right. I would still like the upper thru bolt. I'm happy my bike is blue, matches all the locktite I've been using
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:43 PM   #109
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Congrats on the KLR.
The KLR is a lifestyle choice. Less is more, simplicity = less worries.
Travel more, stay longer.
There are 2 differences between your BMW and the KLR. $10,000 AND 20MPH
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:31 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheatwhacker View Post
Congrats on the KLR.
The KLR is a lifestyle choice. Less is more, simplicity = less worries.
Travel more, stay longer.
There are 2 differences between your BMW and the KLR. $10,000 AND 20MPH
... and about 100 lbs!
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:10 PM   #111
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Airbox

I added 4 one inch holes with uni foam filters in them on top the airbox where the L mod is usually cut out, and the snorkel is already removed from the factory inlet.

That is all I am going to do for now because I am going to run a Leo Vince with the quiet insert in it.

Later if I run a more open exhaust, then I can always add more.


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Old 12-26-2012, 07:21 PM   #112
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Airbox to Intake boot seal

After careful inspection I don't like the factory box to boot connection.

The boot doesn't fit that well and can easily develop a gap to introduce dirt into the engine, especially after removal of subframe and or airbox if you are not paying close attention.

So I put a nice thick bead of High performance RTV silicone sealer around it to bond the two together and seal it up.


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Old 12-27-2012, 07:53 AM   #113
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Check wheel runout & adjust spokes

Before installing the new rear tire, I wanted to check the rear wheel for runout and at least snug up the spokes.



The wheel only had about .010" run out horizontally and vertically, which I am more than happy with, so I went around and equally tightened the spokes in very small increments at a time until they all rang a nice tune when I played them with a 10 mm wrench.

After tightening the spokes I rechecked the wheel for trueness with the dial indicator.

Sorry, the picture went sideways on me.
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:59 AM   #114
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Static balance

Then I put the wheel assembly on jack stands and Static balanced it.

The PO must have put dynabeads in the tubes because I can feel them rolling around in there.I have never used them but I guess I will leave them in.

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Old 12-27-2012, 07:52 PM   #115
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Anakee 2 mounted

I originally planned on running more agressive tires, but the bike came with a brand new set of Michelin Anakee 2's, so I am going to run these this year.



I have used original Anakee's on a couple of GS's and thought they were pretty good all around tires.

Actually, since this is my primary (do it all) bike now, this tire may be a good fit.
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:37 PM   #116
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Steering head bearing lube

I figured I may as well pack some Maxima water proof grease in the steering head bearings also.

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Old 12-29-2012, 05:11 AM   #117
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Yer an animal.....

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Old 12-29-2012, 10:36 AM   #118
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Fork fluid change

While I had the front apart for the steering head bearing regrease, I dumped the old fluid from the forks and put some fresh Belray 10 weight in that I had on the shelf.

The old fork fluid was very dark and broke down.

While I was in there I noted the Race Tech Gold valve settings with red springs and 2 and 1/2 turns preload.

If I remember correctly those are the base settings and the same that I ran on my 2003 Klr a few years back and was happy with those settings.

The springs appear to be progressive with 22 1/2" length and .200 wire diameter and tighter coils at the top.

The pvc spacer is 2 3/4" long , and spring preload is 1/2".
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:20 PM   #119
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Speedo drive problem

While removing the front wheel assembly, I noticed that not only were the alignment tabs on the fork and speedo housing misaligned but the speedo drive ring internally was not aligned to the tabs on the hub of the wheel by the PO and it bent it up and left a small crack on the hub of the wheel.

That explains why the speedometer needle was jumping around at higher speeds, it was probably slipping.

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Old 12-29-2012, 04:22 PM   #120
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Speedo flange on wheel hub

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