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Old 02-23-2013, 02:51 PM   #61
chollo9 OP
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Location: Silk Hope, NC
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Wheels

Got the wheels laced today. Not done, but lightly tensioned, and roughly trued. They sure do look nicer than the poor things that came off--I'll feel a lot more confident beating the crap out of them too!





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Old 02-23-2013, 03:16 PM   #62
BeardThrone
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+1 for more fairing pictures!! The whole build looks good by the way. Who makes those square auxiliary lights?

BT
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:40 PM   #63
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Okay okay I'll get some more fairing pictures up tomorrow! You guys are gonna be seriously disappointed, I'm tellin' ya!

The square lights are Rigid Industries. The one with four LEDs is a Dually, the one with six is a D2.
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:52 PM   #64
BeardThrone
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I am thinking about working with a tall windscreen from a F650 Dakar, trim it to fit the round headlight and just painting it. Thanks for the info on the lights.
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:54 PM   #65
ME 109
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Those driving lights are wickidly good, so I believe.
Anyone know where they can be bought in Australia?
Or is overseas purchase the go?
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:07 PM   #66
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The D2 is great, the Dually isn't in the same league.

Don't know about availability in AUS, but I had to source my front disc from there (Metalgear) and it got here reasonably quickly, for about $60 post.
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:38 PM   #67
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A quick look on ebay shows there are a few option for D2 lights. Homework required.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:22 AM   #68
bmwrench
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chollo9 View Post
The nuts both have a threaded shoulder on the backside (one piece). The tensioner spring sits in the recess of the lower one, and rides over the upper one. I didn't pay any attention to it since that's how it was when it came apart, but since you asked, I looked at MAX's fische and it doesn't show a special nut like this.

What do other folks have? I'm starting to think I have a freakmobile . . .
The nuts on your motor are the usual type. Finding the correct parts and illustrations can be difficult with the online parts finders.
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:03 PM   #69
disston
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You have the correct nuts for the bearing holder that also provide a mounting place for the tension spring.
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:43 AM   #70
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Good to know my nuts are correct. Now about a shoitage in ze other depoitment . . .

Ba Dum Pum









I'm here all week.








Tip your waitress.
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:47 PM   #71
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Latest updated from the Bodge Garage

There's been far too much workin' and not enough wrenchin' goin' on around here, but there is some progress being made.

Wheels are built, and I was able to overcome the factory misalignment by offsetting the rear rim 5mm toward the drive side. I used the tried and true string method:









5mm was as much as I was comfortable dishing the wheel without using different length spokes, which I didn't have, so I also cheated the swingarm to one side by 2mm via the bearing adjusters. AND it is still 1mm out of alignment, so that shows how far off it was originally!

Next, look at the beautiful job that bmwrench did on my heads:










All new guides, new exhaust seats, valve job, new exhaust valves, and a super cleaning. Everything else is ready for assembly, so that's happening this week.

These shiny parts are making my steed look a little grungy, but it all will look dirty (like it should) pretty soon.
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chollo9 screwed with this post 03-05-2013 at 10:50 PM
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:34 PM   #72
bmwrench
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Who made that brake rotor? It's beautiful.

You gonna have room for your rear tire with that much rim offset?
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:42 PM   #73
chollo9 OP
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The rotor came from Metalgear in Australia--it's for a first generation GSXR 750.

I run a 110 rear tire, so clearance will be fine.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:49 PM   #74
DoktorT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chollo9 View Post
There's been far too much workin' and not enough wrenchin' goin' on around here, but there is some progress being made.

Wheels are built, and I was able to overcome the factory misalignment by offsetting the rear rim 5mm toward the drive side. I used the tried and true string method:

5mm was as much as I was comfortable dishing the wheel without using different length spokes, which I didn't have, so I also cheated the swingarm to one side by 2mm via the bearing adjusters. AND it is still 1mm out of alignment, so that shows how far off it was originally!

These shiny parts are making my steed look a little grungy, but it all will look dirty (like it should) pretty soon.
All the Airheads came from the factory with the swingarm centered and some offset built in. That is where the 5mm came from. There is no need to spend time correcting this at all. It will track as true as anyone might need.

Your logic was right, but in this case it is in fact correct as is.

Great project, will be watching.

DoktorT screwed with this post 03-06-2013 at 02:07 PM
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:49 PM   #75
chollo9 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoktorT View Post
All the Airheads came from the factory with the swingarm centered and some offset built in. That is where the 5mm came from. There is no need to spend time correcting this at all. It will track as true as anyone might need.

Your logic was right, but in this case it is in fact correct as is.

Great project, will be watching.
Um, I can't quite see the logic in that, no offense meant in any way. While I'll agree that a road bike (versus a road race bike) doesn't need perfect alignment (and that's why I didn't try to get the last little bit, plus the tolerances of strings and rulers being what they are . . .), it was quite noticeable that the wheels were out of alignment. If I took my hands off of the bars, the bike would strongly pull to one side, and it would turn easier one way than the other (i.e., fall into corners one way, and require more handlebar pressure the other direction). Whether or not it is worth the bother to correct is up to the individual--to me, it was.

Thanks for the kudos.
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