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Old 10-07-2012, 03:38 AM   #16
truk84
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Wire one outlet socket (for your 13amp heated gear) off two fused circuits in parallel (7.5amp or 10amp fuse in each circuit). If you have enough free circuits its an easy way to have a 15amp outlet.

I bought a fuze lock for my r1200gs. Just trying to work out if I should tap into the diagnostic socket or beak gps outlet for the ignition wire. They seem a good product for bikes!
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:24 AM   #17
jthomas82
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2011 install on GSA. Works perfect, I only have my gps and tank bag wired but planning in Gerblings.


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Old 10-29-2012, 04:07 AM   #18
TuefelHunden
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Just put my FZ1 yesterday. The spaghetti factory is gone . Wired to diag socket through a 2amp fuse. Works just fine. Recommend cutting the leads to the BMW socket under the seat and wire to FZ1. Now I can run anything up to 10a out of it including my battery charger. I also run my electric vest connector out of the FZ1 like most folks but have taken a spare power connector and put an SAE plug on it. I can use it for any SAE type device. Life without CanBus is great
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:16 AM   #19
'05Train
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Not to sound dense, but what's the advantage to using some sort of distribution block versus just wiring directly to the battery? I have no need for switched power that I can see, and everything I have wired in has it's own fuse. It just seems like you're adding another failure point.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:34 AM   #20
El Gato
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train View Post
Not to sound dense, but what's the advantage to using some sort of distribution block versus just wiring directly to the battery? I have no need for switched power that I can see, and everything I have wired in has it's own fuse. It just seems like you're adding another failure point.
Functionally - nothing. If all you need is 1 or 2 unswitched leads then going directly to the battery is fine. Getting more than 1 or 2 ring terminals on the battery posts is a PITA, and results in a huge tangle of wires, so a fuse block helps tidy things up, along with providing switched power.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:33 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train View Post
Not to sound dense, but what's the advantage to using some sort of distribution block versus just wiring directly to the battery? I have no need for switched power that I can see, and everything I have wired in has it's own fuse. It just seems like you're adding another failure point.
I have about 4 leads to each terminal. 1 set is OEM, 2x for accessory hubs and 1x for some direct wire.

Between two accessory hubs I'm powering about 8-10 devices... I don't think the screws would go into the battery if I tried to put all the leads direct to the battery, not to mention the mess.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:41 AM   #22
TuefelHunden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aGremlin View Post
I have about 4 leads to each terminal. 1 set is OEM, 2x for accessory hubs and 1x for some direct wire.

Between two accessory hubs I'm powering about 8-10 devices... I don't think the screws would go into the battery if I tried to put all the leads direct to the battery, not to mention the mess.
+1, When you have leads running all over your battery not only are wires a mess but so are the fuse containers.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:08 PM   #23
hardpackrider
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jThomas82,

that is a thing of beauty.. I bought the fuzeblock, but what you've done with the wiring, etc.. is pro. Trying to sort that out.. Where did u get your wire braided "sleeve" material? ..

really nice install.




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Old 11-09-2012, 03:46 PM   #24
Pete O Static
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrimerX View Post
http://www.advdesigns.com/fuzeblock.html
I have a deposit down on a 2012 GSA and one of the first things that will need to be set up is my gerbings gear. This looks nice for wiring but was wondering if anyone has first-hand experience with it.

I need to ask them what the total allowed amperage is.

Also, any suggestion for a good place to mount it?

Thanks,

-Ian
The instructions that come with the FZ1 are pretty clear about not having more than 10 amps per circuit and 30amps in total. His reasoning is that in order to keep the unit as small as possible, the wire within the circuit board can only handle 10 amps.

For heated gear, you are going to be very close, if not over that limit and if you add gloves to the jacket, you will be over for sure. As someone previously suggested, if you are going to run heated gear, wire two circuits in parallel using say, two 7.5 amp fuses for a total of 15 amps for your gear. I have seen some installs sporting 20 amp fuses on one circuit to run heated gear but that is just asking for trouble in my opinion because the FZ1 will possibly ignite before that fuse will open the circuit. He does warn of this in the directions. As he also repeatedly states, fuses are to protect your bike, not the electronic gizmo on the circuit.

I have an Eastern Beaver PC8 if you are looking for one. The reason I swapped out to the FZ1 is because the relay is on the circuit board making a cleaner install, where as the PC-8 relay is a separate unit with means more wires.

I installed the FZ1 under the seat in the tool tray. All wires run underneath. Tapped into the socket wiring harness for Canbus trigger and wired the socket to the FZ1 to bypass Canbus on that circuit. Lets face it, the socket as it is, wired to Canbus, is virtually useless.

You will be pleased with the unit for sure.
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:47 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jthomas82 View Post
2011 install on GSA. Works perfect, I only have my gps and tank bag wired but planning in Gerblings.
In the top image, it appears there is a line going up front with an in-line fuse coming out of the fuzeblock.
I'm not an electrician, but that is redundant and not really needed, right?

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Old 11-10-2012, 02:45 PM   #26
paulhdick
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I like mine ......

I have been very happy with my FuzeBlock since I installed it about a year ago. Although maybe a bit overboard, I connectorized the battery power and trigger in wires as well as the feed wires. These connectors are made by Deutsch and are completely waterproof!
This is what the entire assembly looks like which I mounted into the top tool tray.


For the trigger wire I bought the BMW OEM Aux outlet kit and installed the socket in the fairing per instructions and location, but wired it in differently. This kit comes with a connectorized cable that runs from the aux socket and Ys in to the existing socket under the seat. Instead of doing that I cut the cable in half and installed the powerlet end as normal.


I then connected the other Y end as normal by disconnecting the underseat socket, installed the new Y socket in its place, then connect the male end you removed into the female connector. The other end of the wire I connected to the FuzeBlock trigger circuit. Simple and completely reversible without cutting or splicing any original wiring. Here is the Y cable in place. Note the spare fuses!!


And the entire assembly connected.

I power up my tankbag with an SAE connector (ignition trigger), and the front Aux socket (always on) with the other, which I use for an extra GPS, Heated gear, etc .,or my Battery Tender for charging.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:04 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardpackrider
jThomas82,

that is a thing of beauty.. Where did u get your wire braided "sleeve" material? ..

really nice install.
I don't know where he got it but here are some links to other braided sleeve sites (I didn't buy the 'clean cut' version and 'my sleeving' tended to fray really quick when handling it or moving it around when installing it [terminated it by using silicone tape] - some are sold by the foot - others by the roll).

Electriduct.com - Braided Sleeving

Waytekwire.com - Braided Sleeving

Cabletiesandmore.com - Braided Sleeving
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:29 PM   #28
WindSailor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train
It [distribution block] just seems like you're adding another failure point.
On that point I agree whole heartily... I want DEPENDABLE.

Mine is the standard automotive 'bus bar' type fuse block with fuses - no electronics to fail - just fuses. Suits me just fine.

-Edit-
I'm not going to -diss- this because it works as expected - I just went another route. But still listening...

WindSailor screwed with this post 11-10-2012 at 09:16 PM
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:32 PM   #29
GrimerX OP
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I ended up with the PC-8. 3 powerlets and a stebel horn. The wiring at the box could have been neater but what I really wanted to get right were the wire runs up to the front. I found some cheap shrink-wrap at Lowes or HD (8' 1/2"->1/4" for a few bucks) and wrapped the whole length. The stuff is pretty tough so if it does rub anywhere it'll take a bit just to get through that.

If I end up with some spare time over the winter I might run the wires up through the bottom of the tray or use a connector like some of you have done. That really puts the icing on the cake for a neat install :-)
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:30 AM   #30
viz
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My setup

Fuzeblock and Relay

I use the relay for the aux lights (6 x LED units) as the combined total would have exceeded the Fuzeblock's amperage of 30 amps. Note relay is of the diode protected variety - check out the part number.

Also: Trigger Wire attachment

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