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Old 04-23-2015, 09:27 AM   #1
jrsbike OP
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Center Stand Tang

Center Stand Tang: When collecting my metal work to be painted I just noticed
that my center stand has a broken off tang. Should I have a new piece of steel tube welded on or can I still get the stand down without it? This is on a 74 R90S resto. thx
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:51 AM   #2
CafeDude
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Get a piece of flat stock, hammered into the S shape welded back on. It's a bitch to reach the stand with your toe without the tang. And hard not to get burned by the exhaust when doing so.

If this is a proper restoration, you'll want it back on, and accurately.
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:57 AM   #3
tlub
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and only use it to get it down

You probably know this, but for others that are reading that might be new owners- The main reason they break is that folks use them incorrectly and stand on them when trying to get the bike on the centerstand. Don't do that. It doesn't work- it makes it really hard to get it on the stand- and it breaks them off. You stand on the pad on the end of the stand leg, and step down. They will just about hop up themselves if the stand is not bent. Only use the tang to bring the stand down then stay away from the tang.
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:02 PM   #4
deafanddiabetic
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I've been dealing with burnt thumbs the past few weeks, that S steel shape is a really good idea. I need to befriend a welder, or learn how to do it myself...
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Old 04-23-2015, 01:23 PM   #5
patrkbukly
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One Bolt

I will try and get you a picture of mine.

The RT,

I drilled a 3/8ths hole where the tang was, installed a 5" 3/8 bolt with 2 locknuts and it works like a charm.

I will try and post a pic when I'm back.
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Old 04-23-2015, 01:58 PM   #6
motor_chris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrkbukly View Post
I will try and get you a picture of mine.

The RT,

I drilled a 3/8ths hole where the tang was, installed a 5" 3/8 bolt with 2 locknuts and it works like a charm.

I will try and post a pic when I'm back.
That's a great idea, please post a pic.
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Old 04-23-2015, 04:43 PM   #7
boyblu
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Tangs also work on side stands. No Brown side stands needed.
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Old 04-23-2015, 05:43 PM   #8
jrsbike OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrkbukly View Post
I will try and get you a picture of mine.

The RT,

I drilled a 3/8ths hole where the tang was, installed a 5" 3/8 bolt with 2 locknuts and it works like a charm.

I will try and post a pic when I'm back.
If you come straight out through the original tang location won't you hit the exhaust pipe? Isn't that why an S shape or curve is needed?
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:09 PM   #9
bmwrench
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Welding a correct looking tang is pretty easy. I like to drill a hole through the stand and slip a 1/4" rod into it, then weld it to both sides of the tube. Once it's welded in, I bend the rod to shape, using the torch to make bending it easy. Welding the rod to both sides keeps knuckle heads from tearing it off again.
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Old 04-24-2015, 05:48 AM   #10
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I too like to use a piece of 1/4 or 5/16 inch rod, weld it to the stand then bend it to shape. I usually use a piece of water or gas pipe to rough shape the tang. To get the last bit to tuck in, I'll use a snug fitting box end wrench.
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Old 04-26-2015, 06:26 PM   #11
patrkbukly
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Thought of you when I saw this

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrsbike View Post
Center Stand Tang: When collecting my metal work to be painted I just noticed
that my center stand has a broken off tang. Should I have a new piece of steel tube welded on or can I still get the stand down without it? This is on a 74 R90S resto. thx
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Airhead-...c90f56&vxp=mtr

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Old 05-01-2015, 11:02 AM   #12
deafanddiabetic
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I tried the drilling method last night, I think just putting a bolt through there is a fantastic idea (especially being the rest of my bike is quite "patina'd").

I tried to use a cobalt bit to get through the center stand but it barely made a dent. The only step up from there is a diamond bit!

How the heck do you drill through this thing?
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:36 AM   #13
Stan_R80/7
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I generally start off drilling a 1/4" hole with a 1/8" drill bit. That's after getting the hole location correct and started with a center punch and drill. Not only does that make drilling the hole easier, but breaking a 1/8 bit is much less expensive and easier to replace than a 1/4" bit. A 3/16 drill is the next size followed by the final 1/4" bit. A regular HSS or Cobalt bit with some oil at lower speeds will work fine. It's easier to do the machining (and welding) with the stand off the bike.
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:40 AM   #14
rambozo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwrench View Post
Welding a correct looking tang is pretty easy. I like to drill a hole through the stand and slip a 1/4" rod into it, then weld it to both sides of the tube. Once it's welded in, I bend the rod to shape, using the torch to make bending it easy. Welding the rod to both sides keeps knuckle heads from tearing it off again.
+1

This is by far the best option in my opinion
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:45 AM   #15
patrkbukly
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I owed you a pic

Quote:
Originally Posted by deafanddiabetic View Post
I tried the drilling method last night, I think just putting a bolt through there is a fantastic idea (especially being the rest of my bike is quite "patina'd").

I tried to use a cobalt bit to get through the center stand but it barely made a dent. The only step up from there is a diamond bit!

How the heck do you drill through this thing?
I owed you this picture;
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