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Old 03-25-2013, 12:49 PM   #121
blaine.hale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radicole View Post
Hey Blaine,

I also got my Mikuni's from Alpha Moto about a year ago. I used the 210 mains he sent loosely and it was perfect on my R90/6. I used the stock rubber on the engine side and used rubber reducers from my local hardware store to connect to the airbox. Took about an hour to get em installed and it started immediately. I just played with the idle and air screw but it was a huge difference over the Bings. My bike used to crank for like 25 secs before firing up using the Bings. With the Mikuni's it fires up immediately, everytime (knock on wood).
Glad to hear that! Maybe I'll have some happy news tonight. I'm pretty optimistic.
Did your stock intake rubber have a fair amount of space around the spigot on the mikunis before tightening down? I think they may work as is but I'm not sure I want to scrunch the rubber down that much and risk a bend or fold that causes an air leak.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:22 PM   #122
radicole
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Yeah, they were fairly loose. But once I tightened them down they weren't going anywhere. Give it a shot and maybe you'll luck out and they will work fine. If they are still too loose and you have an airleak, you'll know right away
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:31 AM   #123
blaine.hale
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Slapped everything together kind of in a hurry at midnight last night. She fired up pretty quick on choke and jumped straight to 3k rpm. I'll adjust the cables, idle screw and fuel lines today. One thing I absolutely hate is that the mikunis are not side biased, they're identical, so the fuel line routing is retarded.
Fuel lines need to be cleaned up (they were leaking from all the crazy directions) and the boot needs to be positioned better. That boot is such a perfect fit that clamps aren't even super necessary but will be added.

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Old 03-26-2013, 08:45 AM   #124
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Nice job, Blaine. You won't regret, especially when it comes time to clean them. easy peasy.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:01 AM   #125
Kt-88
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A little late to the party, but this is the vm32 in the stock rubber on my r90/6.

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Old 03-26-2013, 11:52 AM   #126
blaine.hale
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So you definitely need to trim the casing on the cables that come with the alpha moto mikunis. There's so many adjustment points on the cable to it takes up way too much room on the line. Everything zeroed out, the bike will immediately start at 3-4k rpm.
If you remove the nut on the gold ferule on the carb, you can get it down to a reasonable 1500rpm. Trimming about 1/4 of an inch should give me room to zero it out and have slack to adjust and play with.

BTW....my bike is still dropping the right cylinder, despite all new carbs. FML
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:47 PM   #127
Kt-88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
So you definitely need to trim the casing on the cables that come with the alpha moto mikunis. There's so many adjustment points on the cable to it takes up way too much room on the line. Everything zeroed out, the bike will immediately start at 3-4k rpm.
If you remove the nut on the gold ferule on the carb, you can get it down to a reasonable 1500rpm. Trimming about 1/4 of an inch should give me room to zero it out and have slack to adjust and play with.

BTW....my bike is still dropping the right cylinder, despite all new carbs. FML
Ugh. Coils? Wire? Plug?
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:06 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
One thing I absolutely hate is that the mikunis are not side biased, they're identical, so the fuel line routing is retarded.
VM34s are available in left / right versions.

Right:


Left:


If they weren't handed then your idle speed screw would face toward your engine on one side and would be a PITA to adjust. That said, your idle mixture screw DOES face the engine on one side. Have fun with that.
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:56 PM   #129
blaine.hale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
If they weren't handed then your idle speed screw would face toward your engine on one side and would be a PITA to adjust. That said, your idle mixture screw DOES face the engine on one side. Have fun with that.
Eh, just have to flip sides right quick. No biggie. Fuel inlet is still annoying no matter which configuration though.
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Old 03-27-2013, 12:24 AM   #130
Kai Ju
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Fuel line routing

Here is how I set mine up.

Right side:



Left side:



and here is my idle / airscrew set up on the left side.
You can reach the idle screw from underneath and I extended the airscrew with a piece of brass tubing that I silver soldered in place, slotted and covered with a piece of vacuum hose.
The hose allows it to be turned by hand and the slot let's you keep track of how many turns you've made.

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Old 03-27-2013, 05:18 AM   #131
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Hey Kai, where'd you get your choke cables? Mine don't fit nearly as well and I've had to "make" some spacers to take up slack.
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:00 AM   #132
blaine.hale
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Nice set up, Kai. My fuel line is routed very similar to that now. How do you not get air leaks on the filter side of the carb? Looks like just the plastic is shoved into the carb body.
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:59 AM   #133
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Cables etc.

The choke cables are my old throttle cables. The throttle cables are made from two Honda CRF450 throttle cables.

The bellmouth is sealed with a couple of wraps of silicon tape. It's a very tight fit. I actually had to use a dab of grease to get them in there. Checked for Falsche Luft with propane and they are sealed tight.
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:58 PM   #134
Kt-88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
The choke cables are my old throttle cables. The throttle cables are made from two Honda CRF450 throttle cables.

The bellmouth is sealed with a couple of wraps of silicon tape. It's a very tight fit. I actually had to use a dab of grease to get them in there. Checked for Falsche Luft with propane and they are sealed tight.
Well thanks to you I decided to really try to put the stock air box on with the 32s and it did work eventually. I love it. The bike sounds like it did and rides a thousand times better than with the cones.
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:29 PM   #135
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I have seen the snorkels inside of Mikuni's a lot. From what I can tell, they all let dirt in like that. I think the pipe reducer is a better setup myself. Plus I have always wondered if the snorkels inside the carbs effects the atomizer and idle circuit ports in the bell mouth. I don't know for sure but I would think it might.
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