ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-17-2012, 12:35 AM   #511
nightflyer
Hors contrôle
 
nightflyer's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Horn of Africa
Oddometer: 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDowns View Post

The road winds straight up the mountain quite high with beautiful vistas out over the valley below. I stopped at every mirador (vista point) on the 22 kilometer ride to the top. Here is a shot from the first mirador looking at the mouth of the canyon:



I won't bore you with all the pics. This was the best mirador. The next to the last one that had a stone retaining wall that dropped straight down 1000 vertical feet when you looked over the side. You better not suffer from vertigo if you want to hang over the edge and get this picture. That is a tour boat down there with ten rows of seats 4 wide so probably 30 0r 40 feet long with twin outboards cutting the wake down there. You have to squint to see it. It gives some perspective as to how honking big this canyon is:



From the Pacific I took the same road as you when I was there couple years back (I was suppose to meet up with Crashmaster but he stayed behind surfing, but that's another story!). I was so stunned by the Sumidero Canyon form the road that I rode down and did the boat tour on the river. Not my thing to go for the touristy thing usually but it was well worth it. Funny to see the kids with their sheep herds swimming in the river when 20 feet from there huge crocs were resting on the shore...

Great report, it brings back nice memories... good luck with the rest of the adventure
nightflyer is offline  
Old 11-17-2012, 03:27 AM   #512
crashmaster
ow, my balls!
 
crashmaster's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Alaska
Oddometer: 5,205
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDowns View Post


Nice chain. That ought to last you a while on the 250.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JDowns View Post


I believe that I know this hotel very well, great place. The 990 was tight squeeze in there.

Great photos of the cañon and the ride to San Cris.
__________________
Riding the Americas: No Fumar Español
_____________________________________________

crashmaster is offline  
Old 11-17-2012, 07:36 AM   #513
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
Quote:
Originally Posted by nightflyer View Post
From the Pacific I took the same road as you when I was there couple years back (I was suppose to meet up with Crashmaster but he stayed behind surfing, but that's another story!). I was so stunned by the Sumidero Canyon form the road that I rode down and did the boat tour on the river. Not my thing to go for the touristy thing usually but it was well worth it. Funny to see the kids with their sheep herds swimming in the river when 20 feet from there huge crocs were resting on the shore...

Great report, it brings back nice memories... good luck with the rest of the adventure
Bonjour Dépliantnuit,

Checked out your blog and see you hail from Montréal. A French Canadian in Kazakstan with a KTM sounds like a fun combination. The Pamir highway is just south of you. You must be a canyon afficianado as well.

Anyway, glad to be of service. Reading ride reports in between rides brings back fond memories for me as well.
I'll have to take that boat ride some day. It was a beautiful canyon.

Très cordialement,
Jean Thomas
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-17-2012, 08:11 AM   #514
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
Nice chain. That ought to last you a while on the 250.

I believe that I know this hotel very well, great place. The 990 was tight squeeze in there.

Great photos of the cañon and the ride to San Cris.
Hola Vin,

You have a discerning eye for quality. That chain is the nicest thing on the bike. I am sold on RK chains. The only adjustment it gets is when I fix flats.

Funny you were at the Posada San Augustin. Nice place. Good vibe. The proprietess Angelita is like her name says a little angel. Here she is this morning inspecting the door window that the guy broke with his rear view mirror trying to back out of this place as I was heading out to check out the sunrise. She just laughed it off:



If you can get the handlebars through you are golden in these places.

Saludos,
Juanito
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-17-2012, 08:37 AM   #515
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
Its quite a change of scenery going from the Oaxacan beaches to the mountains of Chiapas. Cool crisp air this morning with bright blue skies:



Nuns going to early morning church service:



People in jackets and sweatshirts up here so we must be at 7 or 8000 feet. It feels like it is in the 40s or so but warming up quickly with the sun. I froze last night riding in the mountains. Had to stop and put on my down jacket under my riding jacket. In fact I still have it on:



This guy trusts me about this far and not an inch more:



These are the fastest garbagemen I have ever seen. They had a huge pile of garbage bags tossed in the truck almost before I could get my camera out in seconds before hustling down the street. They were moving out:



No wonder this place is so clean and nice. I better step up my game, maybe shave and do some laundry

more later….

Best,
John Downs
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-17-2012, 11:40 AM   #516
TUCKERS
the famous james
 
TUCKERS's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 11,617
SCDLC is definetly up market. Lots of artsy ex pats living there.

I can barely wait for the Stonemasons report from Palenque.
__________________
James and Colleen Tucker.
Aut viam inveniam aut faciam
DMV work/insurance/registration/titles/address use/room rental/motorbike&vehicle buying/travelers help/problems solved
TUCKERS is offline  
Old 11-17-2012, 03:43 PM   #517
Cal
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary
Oddometer: 797
Follwing along everyday John
I built 2 houses in San Christobal in 2001 with Habitat for Humanity and rode back on my bike in 2010 to visit the families. I was shocked at the change from all the tourists!!! Seems like mini Europe now.

The mortar for laying the cinder block was mixed right on the ground in a small depression, the roofs were cement mixed on the ground and carried up to the roof in 5 gal buckets. A 400sq/ft roof took 6 hours with about 20 workers!
I could only carry up 2,1/2 buckets but the young mexicans carried 2 full buckets up the ladder.

If you feel like laying a few blocks in Guatemala get a hold of Habitat de Humanidad in Xela, they are very well organized, Did 2 houses in San Marcos,San Marcos(departemento) in 2006 and rode back to visit the families in 2011 for a great reunion,very emotional.

I love your report

Cal
Cal is online now  
Old 11-17-2012, 05:33 PM   #518
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
SCDLC is definetly up market. Lots of artsy ex pats living there.

I can barely wait for the Stonemasons report from Palenque.
I think that's a pretty acurate portrayal San Cristobal de las Casas. Should be in Palenque tomorrow. Will report back what I find.

Best,
John Downs
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-17-2012, 05:41 PM   #519
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal View Post
Follwing along everyday John
I built 2 houses in San Christobal in 2001 with Habitat for Humanity and rode back on my bike in 2010 to visit the families. I was shocked at the change from all the tourists!!! Seems like mini Europe now.

The mortar for laying the cinder block was mixed right on the ground in a small depression, the roofs were cement mixed on the ground and carried up to the roof in 5 gal buckets. A 400sq/ft roof took 6 hours with about 20 workers!
I could only carry up 2,1/2 buckets but the young mexicans carried 2 full buckets up the ladder.

If you feel like laying a few blocks in Guatemala get a hold of Habitat de Humanidad in Xela, they are very well organized, Did 2 houses in San Marcos,San Marcos(departemento) in 2006 and rode back to visit the families in 2011 for a great reunion,very emotional.

I love your report

Cal
Hi Cal,

Glad to have you around. Time marches on and places change. I've never been here before. I thought it would be too touristy so skipped coming here in the past. But I must say it was enjoyable walking around the city today and seeing the interesting mix of locals, taller Mexican tourists, and European backpackers mixed in with ex-pat immigrants dressed in eclectic outfits.

I only saw one American for sure who drove up in a Landcruiser with Colorado plates and was wearing Carhartt pants. I would have said hi but haven't spoken English since I saw MikeMike and it felt awkward, so I just ambled on.

I'm all in on the Guatemala habitat for humanity idea. Just not this trip. I'm focused on finally making it to South America. I could definitely see coming down here in the next year or two and doing something useful.

Kindest regards,
John Downs
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-17-2012, 06:11 PM   #520
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
Nice sunset this evening:



and looking east as storm clouds roll in over the mountains:



I took long walks today, and a siesta and a sunset walk up to this nice park up the way:



It's a nice mix of colonial funk and tourist oriented businesses. Great people watching town. Lots of nice looking folks ambling around. Some looking lost, some looking happy, and the majority of neutral lost in thought folks strolling down the streets.

Lots of local villagers unloading from the collectivo buses this morning with their bundles of goods to sell. The park this morning nearby had been taken over by stalls with various arts and crafts vendors selling jewelry, hand made textiles and tourist trinkets. I think probably women especially would enjoy this town. Although anyone who enjoys craft markets and window shopping would enjoy walking around. Motorcycling minimalists can enjoy watching the window shoppers. I would recommend this place to friends as an interesting place to spend a day or three. And if you prefer the way things used to be in Chiapas there are villages in the mountains in any direction a few miles that are like this town used to be with no tourists and indigenous locals living a simple life.

Some very stylish and beautiful women. I especially enjoyed watching 5 gorgeous women in stilletto heels with one inch lifts and ball gowns try to cross the street and get into a compact car to go to some gala event this evening.

I don't want to turn into a papparazzi scum photographer so I kept my camera in my pocket. You'll just have to imagine 5 slim women with beautifully coifed hair crossing cobblestone streets in stilletto heels with their long flowing gowns tucked in their crotch to stay out of the gutter and holding a hand modestly over their cleavage bulging out of their low cut dresses as they bent over to shoehorn in to a Volkswagen Jetta all while keeping their composure. Not an easy stunt. They pulled it off quite gracefully I thought. Pretty hilarious though.

It's easy to get lost in these larger Latin cities with narrow streets that are all lined with multicolored stucco houses with terra cotta tile roofs. They all look the same. I was fortunate to drive a taxi at night in college and learned to pay attention so I could get back the way I came in to a neighborhood. But setting a waypoint for your hotel and taking your GPS is not a bad idea these days.

Heading to Palenque tomorrow. I spent 250 on this hotel and 121 on food. I thought the jar of peanut butter was 19 pesos but it was 61 upside down. So my big expense today was a 5 dollar small jar of PB. So total of 371 or $29.68.

Buenos noches mi amigos de aventura,
Juanito
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076

JDowns screwed with this post 11-17-2012 at 06:42 PM
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-18-2012, 08:13 AM   #521
Free Radical
High speed drifter
 
Free Radical's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Wherever I go, there I am
Oddometer: 1,403
I" don't want to turn into a papparazzi scum photographer so I kept my camera in my pocket. You'll just have to imagine 5 slim women with beautifully coifed hair crossing cobblestone streets in stilletto heels with their long flowing gowns tucked in their crotch....."

Great word picture, Juanito, but as they say, a picture vale mil palabras.

Here's my support for you to unleash the inner papparazzo!
__________________
"Confiar es bueno, pero no confiar es mejor." -- El Tejano en la pelicula "El infierno."

"A cheeseburger, a tank of gas, and the hell out of here!" -- Graffiti, Men's Room, Fontanelli's Tavern, Norman, OK c 1974
Free Radical is offline  
Old 11-18-2012, 11:26 AM   #522
nightflyer
Hors contrôle
 
nightflyer's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Horn of Africa
Oddometer: 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDowns View Post
Bonjour Dépliantnuit,

Checked out your blog and see you hail from Montréal. A French Canadian in Kazakstan with a KTM sounds like a fun combination. The Pamir highway is just south of you. You must be a canyon afficianado as well.
Très cordialement,
Jean Thomas

thanks for this kind (and funny!) answer... but I have to come clean with that one: I am misleading people a bit by posting pics of small parts of my orange bike to make them believe I have a KTM when it is actually a Honda

And, yes I have plans for the Pamir highway
nightflyer is offline  
Old 11-18-2012, 11:57 AM   #523
crashmaster
ow, my balls!
 
crashmaster's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Alaska
Oddometer: 5,205
Quote:
Originally Posted by nightflyer View Post

thanks for this kind (and funny!) answer... but I have to come clean with that one: I am misleading people a bit by posting pics of small parts of my orange bike to make them believe I have a KTM when it is actually a Honda

And, yes I have plans for the Pamir highway
Almost dropped into Almaty the other day. Was doing CGN-SZX and couldn't get logged on to Chinese ATC with the CPDLC before entering L-888. I had enough fuel for the re route to Chengdu, but was thinking of just dropping into Almaty to drink beers with you.

When you ride the pamir highway post up some pics!
__________________
Riding the Americas: No Fumar Español
_____________________________________________

crashmaster is offline  
Old 11-18-2012, 04:17 PM   #524
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
Almost dropped into Almaty the other day. Was doing CGN-SZX and couldn't get logged on to Chinese ATC with the CPDLC before entering L-888. I had enough fuel for the re route to Chengdu, but was thinking of just dropping into Almaty to drink beers with you.

When you ride the pamir highway post up some pics!
Crashmaistro,

Google translate doesn't do pilotspeak translation so it took me a while to figure out you were flying from Bonn/Cologne to Shenzhen and Chinese air traffic control wasn't responding on your controller pilot data link communications as you were preparing to drop in to the L-888 route north of the Himalayas.

Sounds adventurous to me. And I agree, nightflyer needs to post up some pics of the Pamir Hwy when he gets down there. Stunning area of the world.

Saludos,
Juanito
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-18-2012, 05:35 PM   #525
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
I left San Cristobal de las Casas this morning heading for Palenque. First I had to find some more rubber cement for patching tubes as mine was beyond its past due date. It turns out that today is Sunday and no Repuestos de Motos (motorcycle parts) stores were open. But the guy at the Pemex station where I filled up with gas thought I should check the bicycle store that was open on Sundays down by the Mercado. Great idea!

I pulled up and there were two guys waiting in front of the bike shop with flat tires. It opened at 9:30 and it was 9:00, so I spent some time talking with flat tire Alejandro. He had worked in a plant nursery in Atlanta Georgia for three years a while ago but never learned any English. Nice guy.

So I learned that rubber cement is called Cemento, patches are called Parchas, and tire tubes are called Camaras. Just so you know. Two tubes of cemento cost 14 pesos or $1.12. I also bought 2 liters of oil for 130 pesos or a little over 5 bucks a liter at the Pemex station. The bike could use an oil change. There was no convenient place to do it in the city. Pemex didn't have 10/40. All they had was 40 wt. or 20/50. I chose 20/50 since that's what I ended up using in Guatemala last time I was down here and the Sherpa didn't seem to mind.

It was chilly this morning up in the mountains. I had my down jacket and long underwear on as the road climbed higher up into the mountains. There was a Gruta (grotto or cave) sign outside of town and I rode down to check it out, but you had to park your bike and walk through the pine forest up what looked like a long pathway. I didn't feel like hiking in the cold so went back to the main road to Palenque and kept riding up into the clouds. Didn't take any pictures up there. It was a fairly decent road for Chiapas. A few deslaves (landslides) and sunken areas to keep you on your toes. This area had just been repaired recently and was taken out part way again. You can see the old road and the new undermined road in this pic:



Here is another large landslide over the way:



The road finally dropped down to Ocosingo off in the distance:



It was warming up and there were good smells coming from the side of the road so I turned around and stopped for desayuno (breakfast) at a comedor. They had to run next door to get some eggs for huevos Mexicanos served with frijoles (beans) and tortillas. It's all you can eat tortillas so I finished off a pile. 20 pesos or $1.60. Quite filling and economical. Tourist towns charge twice as much. 40 or 50 pesos for this simple breakfast in places like Real de Catorce or San Cristobal.

Once you are out of the pine forests the road winds through 100 miles of lower mountains:



It was nothing but curves for hours. Really fun riding. Pounding over speed bumps, swerving around sunken areas of the road and passing buses and colectivos is fun but it is nice to take a break every now and then. Sometimes I'll turn off on a dirt road and ride down to a small village and sit on a bench and drink a coke and relax for a while. Today was no different. Stopped down a gravel road at this little place out in the middle of nowhere where the friendly locals that walked by all said buenas tardes. Nice rural kicked back vibe:



Before I got to Palenque I saw the sign for Agua Azul Cascadas and decided to go check out the waterfalls. I knew it was touristy. But the switchbacks down were only 3 miles to a Caseta de Cobra (toll booth) that charged 38 pesos or 3 dollars. I parked next to some nice Mexican tourists from way up north in Cuernavaca who were on holiday. Here is what the falls and swimming areas look like:







Just like the photos on the internet and tourist brochures. What they don't show is the busloads of people and the pathway up to the falls that is lined with trinket shops:



I would give this place a miss. The tranquil and beautiful waterfall park on the dirt road through the sugarcane fields up near Naranjo was far nicer. And I was the only one there. Quite a contrast to this place. Plus more spectacular waterfalls than this place. But hey, the tourists were enjoying Agua azul and it would be a beautiful setting minus all the people and buses.

I continued on winding down through the lower mountains:



to the coastal plain where the road flattened and straightened off towards the distance and the clouds and cold of the mountains gave way to blue skies and warmth:



Another drastic change in climate with only a few hours of riding. I arrived in Palenque around 4, so too late in the day to go check out the ruins. I rode into the lobby of the hotel here and parked and when she said 200 pesos ($16.000 with wifi, cable, two beds and hot showers I said sign me up. This is a shot of what sixteen bucks gets you in Palenque:



Two beds, a fresh roll of toilet paper, towel, and a bar of soap at the Posada Aguila Real. Works for me. I spent 601 pesos or $48.08 today on food, gas, oil, glue, entrance fees and lodging

Kindest regards,
John Downs
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076

JDowns screwed with this post 11-18-2012 at 08:15 PM
JDowns is offline  
Closed Thread

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 08:47 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014