ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-20-2012, 01:20 AM   #556
TonyZA
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Jo.burg, South Africa
Oddometer: 14
You give a whole new perspective on viewing ruins -- I reckon I'll look at any that I come across in my travels in a completely different way now.

Great report!
TonyZA is offline  
Old 11-20-2012, 04:19 AM   #557
OldPete
Be aware
 
OldPete's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Los Alamitos, CA
Oddometer: 4,700
Enjoying the ride Juanito.
I check in often and note, as in write it down, the Spanish you use.
Printed out the list of phrases in your other RR.
OldPete is offline  
Old 11-20-2012, 08:08 AM   #558
crashmaster
ow, my balls!
 
crashmaster's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Alaska
Oddometer: 5,211
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDowns View Post
Yes, that lime mortar slobber will wash away in the tropics just as all the lime plaster did years ago. It's no big deal. Time heals all. In the game of rock, plaster, scissors--- rock wins every time.

Saludos,
Juanito
I'll never look at the ruins the same way again. Interesting observations Juan. I learn something new every day. Nice write up.
__________________
Riding the Americas: No Fumar Español
_____________________________________________

crashmaster is offline  
Old 11-20-2012, 03:50 PM   #559
SavannahCapt
Studly Adventurer
 
SavannahCapt's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: SE Georgia
Oddometer: 733
. It's no big deal. Time heals all. In the game of rock, plaster, scissors--- rock wins every time.

Saludos,
Juanito[/QUOTE]

And with enough time and weather, gravity wins. The rocks end up down at the beach in tiny pieces.
__________________
Anyone can take the helm when the seas are calm.
SavannahCapt is offline  
Old 11-20-2012, 05:50 PM   #560
BeachGuy
Alabama & Costa Rica
 
BeachGuy's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Back in Alabama!
Oddometer: 469
John, a geologist once told me that a rock was just a future piece of sand. Mexican mortar has noting to do with it's longevity.
No matter how bad the job is done.

That's the extent of my knowledge.
__________________
BeachGuy
2010 Ride Report: Orange Beach, AL to Jaco Beach, Costa Rica
2011 Ride Report: Costa Rica to Panama back to Costa Rica
2014 Ride Report: Ring of Ireland in 30 days
One of the beautiful things about riding solo is the quality of the social experience.
BeachGuy is offline  
Old 11-20-2012, 06:12 PM   #561
SavannahCapt
Studly Adventurer
 
SavannahCapt's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: SE Georgia
Oddometer: 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeachGuy View Post
John, a geologist once told me that a rock was just a future piece of sand. Mexican mortar has noting to do with it's longevity.
No matter how bad the job is done.

That's the extent of my knowledge.
Well there is really no "end product" cause the sand can end up as rock again, sandstone being the most obvious. Sorry, I'm done.
__________________
Anyone can take the helm when the seas are calm.
SavannahCapt is offline  
Old 11-21-2012, 07:40 AM   #562
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
I was camping out near the Guatemalan border in the State of Campeche at some ruins last night. Just came through a small town out in the middle of nowhere for some breakfast and they actually have slow internet.

So I'll load some photos and see if I can show you rural Campeche and the ruins of El Tigre in a bit. Pretty nice out here.

More later.....

Saludos,
Juanito
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-21-2012, 08:27 AM   #563
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
Yesterday I was loading my bike up back in Palenque and heard pounding upstairs so went up to see what they were building. It turns out they were making holes in the masonry for windows. They drilled four holes at the corners and cut the window opening with a 4" angle grinder with a diamante (diamond) blade on the inside and outside of the wall and were knocking it out carefully with a chisel and sledge. No rebar in the curtain walls so I'd rather be camping if there is an earthquake:




I left the hotel thinking I would head back to the Tonina ruins back through the Chiapas mountains. Fate would have it differently as I left the hotel and looked for a bank to change money. I stopped at the local Oxxo convenience store and asked Francisco where the nearest bank was. He offered me a beer which I declined. It looked like he was in a fiesta mood at 9 in the morning. Here's Francisco in the parking lot:



It turns out that the 20th of November is like the 4th of July in the U.S. A major national holiday. Francisco was in a fiesta mood, but I just wanted to change a couple hundred bucks and head to some more Mayan ruins. All banks were closed. And there was a parade blocking off the main street that I needed to get anywhere. So I checked out the parade:







I thought that was a real 9mm in his pants but it was plastic on closer inspection. They were chanting Viva Zapata, so I imagine they are the next generation of Zapatistas:



There is only so much parade watching I am good for so I decided to try some back alleys over a footbridge to get across the stream and over to the other side of town:



I asked a traffic cop if there was a Casa de Cambio nearby and he directed me to this shop that sold appliances, motorcycles and changed money:



The exchange rate was 12.5 pesos to the dollar, not as good as the bank rate, but it was a holiday and I was heading out in the sticks so I walked out with 2500 pesos and headed down the road. It was already afternoon and I didn't know if parks were open on national holidays so I decided to head towards Quintana Roo and motored over to the Yucatan.

I crossed a bridge and paid the new half price toll for motorcycles that started Novermber 14th. All Cuotas and toll bridges are now half price for motorcycles. So instead of 20 pesos it was 10 pesos to cross over the river into the State of Tabasco. Nice.

The Yucatan is a lot of straight riding through savannah like country. I saw a sign to El Tigre Ruinas and thought that sounded compelling so took a derecha down a nice back road with a fair enough number of potholes to keep things interesting past the town of Candelaria out into the middle of nowhere forty miles or so.

Eventually ended up on this road heading straight out to who knows where:



It had been paved at one time and there were stretches and remnants over the bridges. I kept going looking for ruins sticking up out of the jungle but never saw any. Finally ended up here at this nice lake. Looked like a nice place to camp:



There was nobody around so I decided to double back and retrace the road I came in on in the hopes of finding the mythical El Tigre Ruinas. Eventually came to a house and pulled in. No one appeared to be home but as I parked Carlos came out of a shed and said this was the ruinas. Hmmmm. I paid the 35 peso entry fee and Carlos gave me a boleta (ticket), Here's my bud Carlos:



I walked up the path and at first thought these were the first ruins and thought to myself WTF?:



Nope. Just the bathrooms. Whew!

I continued on up a jeep trail out through the jungle a kilometer or so. Nobody was out here. Totally serene and peaceful place. Carlos said the road out here is despacio (crap) so not many people come. I was wondering if there were any ruins by the time I came around a bend and saw something off in the distance past a large mowed parklike area:




Now we're talking:





Original Mayan ruins that were discovered 25 years ago:







The upper pyramid walls were all original:



Even the floor was original limestone cement:



The staircase leading up the pyramid was a Mexican re-build with whatever the cat dragged in:




Nice view out over the Campeche countryside from the top of the pyramid. Really peaceful and quiet out here:




Nice original Mayan work. Much different down here in Campeche than up in Chiapas. These boys were into rectilinear with rounded corners. Nice work:



Nice rounded corners on this column. You can see where they used the thin square stone to face the core of the pyramid which was backfilled with rounded fill stones mortared in place. Some of the face stone has fallen away leaving the rounded crap inside exposed. Standing thin stones upright and mortaring them in place never lasts for more than a few centuries:



Carlos said this was the matrimonial bed for the Queen but he told me there were vampires when a bat was flying around this evening so who knows:



The ball court was all Mexican reproduction:



Some nice 4 foot tall plaster his and hers heads that had been unearthed and were under a protective shed in a burial chamber:






and a 4 foot tall Jaguar negro mascarone (black jaguar mask):



Anyway nice ruins and a peaceful place to come out in the middle of nowhere in Campeche 20 miles from the Guatemalan border if you're in the area.There's a back road across the border just down the way but they don't have aduana or a banercito and anyway I want to head over to Quintana Roo and check out more ruinas tomorrow. Carlos said I could camp for free anywhere so I am typing this in my tent at:

N 18º 07.424'
W 90º 50.353'

I sat around this evening in the maintenance shed/kitchen/dining area and chatted with Carlos and got out my computer and uploaded these photos and he showed me which work was original and what had been restored confirming what I already knew. I showed him pictures of Palenque. He's never been out of Campeche.

I didn't have any food but there was actually a snack place that caters to the 3 or four people who come out here on a good day so I knocked over at the house across the way and the nice man opened up his tienda. It consisted of a fridge with 10 sodas in it, and a rack with candy a few bags of chips and some crackers. So dinner consisted of crackers, chips and a coke. Not the best meal I've eaten in Mexico but I'm not complaining.

I learned that candalosa means "in heat", so there is some carnal canine action going on in the bushes between Carlos's 4 dogs and their new amiga. I hope they knock it off before bedtime. I can't really complain for a peaceful free place to camp out in the Campeche savannah.

Because it's close to the border there are a lot of military check points out here and a couple of federales actually stopped me and tried to shake me down for a refresca (soda) but I told them Mordida es muy malo por tu espiritu y turismo y tu pais. (payola is bad for your spirit, tourism and your country) . First time anyone has checked my fake license yet, so it was about time. They finally gave it back and I motored on.

I spent 210 pesos or $16.80 today on gas, food, bridge toll and admission.
Breakfast is over. I'm off to the beaches of Quintana Roo. More later...

Saludos,
Juanito
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076

JDowns screwed with this post 11-21-2012 at 12:22 PM
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-21-2012, 08:59 AM   #564
Nice_Rumble
Beastly Adventurer
 
Nice_Rumble's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: New London, NH
Oddometer: 2,243
Referred to this thread by Dwight (Kedgi) who is riding south a few days (weeks) behind you. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=832336

Hope you guys get to meet up at some point. That would be fun to see two threads merge. Looks like you're having fun. Ride safe.
__________________
Noise annoys, ride stealth
Member: CCCOFVT, MVTR, NETRA
2013 KTM 500EXC
Nice_Rumble is offline  
Old 11-21-2012, 12:01 PM   #565
JDowns OP
Sounds good, let's go!
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Bassett, NE
Oddometer: 2,652
Buenos tardes mi amigos de aventura,

I'm all in on this Mundo de Mayo (Mayan world) out here in the Yucatan. Lots of straight roads so not that adventurous riding wise other than weaving around the potholes on the backroads.

This is where I camped last night at the El Tigre ruins:



Nice peaceful place. I think you'll like it if you need a free place to camp and you're in the neighborhood. Carlos the caretaker for the last seven years is a really kicked back dude. Actually everything is kicked back in the rural areas out here. Nice.

Followed the railroad tracks north to the main road and took a turn towards the Carribean. Should be there soon. Just stopped in to a cybercafe to charge up my dying laptop batteries.

Check out the tread on this semi trailer spare tire outside. There was barely a trace of tread left:



But who am I to talk. My rear tire is getting a little thin in the teeth as well. Here is a shot of macho topes in Escarcega. Rock and roll:



more later....

Suerte,
Juan
__________________
South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=831076

JDowns screwed with this post 11-21-2012 at 12:06 PM
JDowns is offline  
Old 11-21-2012, 02:03 PM   #566
_cy_
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 5,929
John.. thanks for all the updates ... sounds like good times.
_cy_ is offline  
Old 11-21-2012, 02:05 PM   #567
TUCKERS
the famous james
 
TUCKERS's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 11,624
Nice couple of days John.

Pretty flat out there eh? Stay clear of Can-Cun, nothing for you there unless you want to take a flight to Havana.

Chichen Itza and then south?

Great stuff, loving it.
__________________
James and Colleen Tucker.
Aut viam inveniam aut faciam
DMV work/insurance/registration/titles/address use/room rental/motorbike&vehicle buying/travelers help/problems solved
TUCKERS is offline  
Old 11-21-2012, 02:16 PM   #568
Cal
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary
Oddometer: 805
John
Don't miss Tulum, the Mayan's knew how to pick a spot to live when then built Tulum! When you go into the park take your traje de bano porque la playa a bajo Tulum es el mejor! You can then cross into Belise at Chetemal.
Cal is offline  
Old 11-21-2012, 02:46 PM   #569
thepackrat
i can ride that
 
thepackrat's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: escaped from Iqaluit, Nunavut
Oddometer: 36
just caught up

Hope to do a similar trip in the next couple of years. There are decent cabanas/camping places right on the beach at Talum. From them it's a decent walk north to the ruins. Great place to swim at the ruins as well. Enjoying your reports. Paul
thepackrat is offline  
Old 11-21-2012, 04:11 PM   #570
Almost There
Up, up, and away
 
Almost There's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: NW Oregon
Oddometer: 321
Great report. Finally got caught up in rainy Oregon.
Almost There is offline  
Closed Thread

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014