South America and back on a 250 Super Sherpa Minimalist Adventure

[kantuckid]

Great RR,thanks John!
This week I got a look @ Culberson's bike in the BMW museum in Greer,SC (beside the factory there)which crossed the Darien gap swamp style! There's your challenge, John.
As to the adv trips vs. family stuff, I've ridden since 1963 & may never make it to SA but can assure everyone that raising 3 sons is quite the adventure in it's own way. An earlier "family"comment prompted me to muse: until your sons/kids reach about 14, they are yours to raise at close hand then they "inch away gradually" from there.Make your choices . Another thought that was my mantra as a parent-I never tried to "impose" my hobbies(or career notions either) on my sons. Some activities they adopted(and helped us bond), others they did not. MC's is one that they never got into,(hiking,fishing,golfing,camping,cars,world travel,BB/FB/BB,etc.Woodworking-YES!) which means, that as a parent you're entitled to have your life but also need a sense for what your kids like too, along the way toward adulthood.
A friend in Mexico once ask me if I was seeing myself as on an "adventure" riding there-to which I said, "yes, for me it is my adventure". Not my ultimate idea of one, mind you but it works for me. John, you can do the last leg of "the trip I may not get to do". Just be cautioned(as one of my childless but adventurous uncles told me when we were young & w/o kids) that your late years are not lonely ones. Enjoy the ride!

[Dooga]

Originally Posted by JDowns

This is what Honduran Lempira currency looks like

Is that Honest Abe on that bill? Or just a doppelganger?

[JDowns]

Hola muchachos,

The internet went out in the hotel I was staying in last night. The power was dead so I went out with the dueño (owner) to see what the problem was this morning. Alas, there were so many bad splices in the power drop as it went to the hotel, it was hard to know which one was bad:









I would start with the wet plastic bag splice in the bottom photo. The electrical inspector back home will get a kick out of these photos when I show him. 12 serious code violations from the place they hot wired the main drop to the entrance to the hotel. That has to be a guiness record.

Not my problem though. I packed up and headed out. Early morning is a peaceful time to hit the road in Latin America. The roads are empty:



The skies were clearing:



Pleasant riding. Nicaragua is so different from Honduras. No speed bumps or potholes. It seems so prosperous, and yet it's not really. Just compared to Honduras.

A lot of volcanic rock laying around. With tropical trees like Monkeypod and Royal Poinciana on the dry Pacific side of Nica that are reminiscent of the Kona coast on the Big Island of Hawaii. A lot of rock walls made with random rubble for keeping the cattle in. Cheaper than barbed wire. I know how hard it is to use random crap rock to build a rustic wall. It's extremely difficult to build a nice looking functional rubble wall with very few flat faces on the stone you are working with. This guy has the chops:



A lot of cattle and cowboys in the area around Estelli:



Stopped for breakfast. Low carb diet. Arroz, frijoles, papas fritas, huevos y tortillas (Rice, beans, french fries, eggs and tortillas). 45 cordobas or around 2 bucks. Very filling:



Had the waitress Maria sign the tank. She really got into it:



My truck driver eating buddies:



I've never seen this tropical tree before. Green and yellow fruits the size of grapefruits growing on the bark:



I've stopped in Masaya at an internet cafe to write this brief report and check messages. Chiriqui Charlie is just down the road in Granada and has offered a flat place for my mat on the floor of his room tonight. It doesn't get any better than that in a minimalist's world.

More later……

[Throttlemeister]

Originally Posted by JDowns

I've never seen this tropical tree before. Green and yellow fruits the size of grapefruits growing on the bark:

hedge apples to me. You went flying through Honduras, you ready for Colombia or something

Worth a look at the crater lake above Granada, nice view of filled up Volcano up there at Mirador de Catarina and can find a cheap lunch with a view if you bargain.


Don't go speeding along the tree lined road to Granada, a favorite hangout of the transito.

Happy trails and happy xmas amigo

[JDowns]

Originally Posted by Dooga

Is that Honest Abe on that bill? Or just a doppelganger?

Hi Dooga,

That could easily be Abe's distant relative Francisco Morazan on the fiver in Honduras. Striking resemblance.

He united the five countries of Central America into one nation known as the Federal Republic of Central America back in the early 1800s and was the first President of Central America. Alas, as with Abe he met a grim fate at the hands of his political enemies and was executed in 1842 after which the nation fractured into the five countries we have today.

Best,
Juan Historico

[805gregg]

Originally Posted by JDowns

Hi Dave,

The Super Sherpa is a 10 for my needs. There is no perfect bike, but for someone with limited funds it works well. Easy on gas, 65mph all day long, splitting lanes in tight city traffic, just turned over 30,000 miles on the odo a couple days ago and I haven't done anything other than routine maintenance. Plus I've beat the tar out of the poor thing down to Panama and back and now heading as far south as my money lasts.

If I was made of money I don't know if I would choose any other bike. Maybe a WR250R or fly down to South America and buy an XR250L Tornado with electric start and that tough little XR250 motor.

But after seeing that Sherpa that the Aussie gal has been kicking the shit out of for the last 6 years and 174,000 kilometers with no issues I don't know. Sherpas are tough little bikes. I'm riding mine until it dies. That could be a while.

I look forward to your future ride reports.

Kindest regards
John Downs

Tell me this isn't so, surely you need a $20,000 BMW motorcycle and $1,500 KLIM riding gear to go on an extended ADVenture ride, great stuff John, keep it up.

[JDowns]

Originally Posted by Throttlemeister

hedge apples to me. You went flying through Honduras, you ready for Colombia or something

Worth a look at the crater lake above Granada, nice view of filled up Volcano up there at Mirador de Catarina and can find a cheap lunch with a view if you bargain.


Don't go speeding along the tree lined road to Granada, a favorite hangout of the transito.

Happy trails and happy xmas amigo

Hola TM,

Good to hear from you. You're right. I blew through Honduras. I'll give it a better tour next time. Colombia is like a magnet. I am getting drawn there.

I'll check out that crater lake. Looks nice.

Your boots are taking a beating and hanging in there. Can't stay away from Oklahoma now that I've seen the Zombie light.

Best,
Johnboy

[JDowns]

Headed to Granada to visit with Chiriqui Charlie. Found his hospedaje. He was out so I sat and chatted with the help. Asked the owner Nica lady if it would be okay for me to stay in CC's room and she asked her Italian husband Franco. He said no. I had to rent a separate room. Actually since CC only had one bed in his room, and I just needed a place to put my pad and sleeping bag, Francos exact words were, "you notta gonna campa in my hotel. Ain'ta gonna happen. Never. and he spread his hands apart from the waist palms down with a sweeping motion.

Well okay then. When CC came back had a nice chat. Super nice guy. Here he is signing the Sherpa tank:



I'll visit with him in Panama when I get down there. Granada is a bit pricey for my budget anyway so I went to plan B. Actually I didn't really have a plan B. I just rode out of town and wandered around until I found a nice place to stay out in the country. It's called Rio Lago Ecotourist Lodge. I'm an ecotourist tonight I guess. They rent expensive rooms to gringos. It was dark and I asked if I could camp. The guard asked the dueño and he said okay. They have wifi and a swimming pool. It looks pretty nice in the dark. Here is my camping spot out in the back 40:



I spent 846 cordobas today. At 23 cordobas to the dollar that is $36.78 on gas, a lot of food and lodging.

Buenos noches mi amigos de aventura,
Juanito

[Eagletalon]

Hello Juan:

I really have been enjoying your RR !!! Like your simplistic way of traveling around las Americas. Between you and Radioman my winter has been spent reading!!! Thanks for the constant updates as I can imagine is hard work!!!

Cuidate
John

[FODcan]

Ok John, you have hit 1,000+ replies. Time for an equipment and gear review. How are those bags working, the garmin, steripen, and what ever else you are using?

[JDowns]

Originally Posted by FODcan

Ok John, you have hit 1,000+ replies. Time for an equipment and gear review. How are those bags working, the garmin, steripen, and what ever else you are using?

Hi FODcan,

Not much gear to report on really. Which is why I can't find any corporate sponsors other than you guys. The bags leak like a sieve in the rain which is why I put things in zip locs. I can't say enough good things about plastic bags though.

The top box was a cheapo I got at discount motorcycle parts and it is holding up well.

The steripen works as advertised. I only buy water occasionally when the tap water tastes like crap or smells like sulphur like up in the mountains somewhere back a few countries.

The First Gear Jacket and pants leak like a sieve. But it's a warm wet down here in the tropics.

REI expedition socks are the best socks I have ever owned. I only have one pair and wash them regularly and they are bomb proof.

My thrift store black levis are amazing. I paid a dollar for them and they never look dirty. I wash them once a month whether they need it or not.

My black thrift store tee shirt is the same. I wash the armpits regularly with soap and water and the whole tee occasionally. Never looks dirty.

My Goodwill Industries black Chevrolet Truck hat from San Antonio is still hanging in there. Never looks gross and takes wadding up and shoving in the panniers beautifully. And keeps my helmet hair hidden when I'm off the bike.

This Macbook air I'm typing on is bomb proof. It has been slamming around in the top case over speed bumps for over 9000 miles and hasn't missed a beat.

My pawn shop Nikon coolpix camera is hanging in there. I had to switch to it when the bandwidth shrank so I can upload pics quick before the internet goes down. The pictures are smaller. But that just means you get to use your imagination more.

The GPS that Jim and Ann gave me is great. I hardly ever look at a map. Just wander around and if I feel like seeing what the elevation is or where I am in relation to the PanAm highway just pull over and fire it up.

The BMW boots that Throttlemeister gave me are holding up really well. Not only did he break them in for me, but they fit my feet like a glove and are plenty comfy hiking around ruins and such. They are probably worth more than my bike and I think kind thoughts about my Okie bud every morning when I put them on.

The tent Sam gave me in Texas has saved me a ton of money on lodging. I would have kept riding on into the night rather than pay the exhorbitant rates at this ecolodge fantasy farm I'm staying at tonight if it hadn't been for the tent.

Thermarest pad is holding up well. They are known for springing leaks but so far so good.

My lightweight down bag has saved my bacon in the cold mountains and been good for cold nights in unheated hotels.

The goose down jacket I bought for 2 bucks at the Bassett thrift store is the perfect thing for a minimalist. Squashes down to nothing and puffs up and keeps me warm under my riding jacket when I'm up in the cold mountains at night or early morning. It is dirt colored and still looks fine. Perfect as an over shirt in the morning and cool mountain evenings. Much better than the bulky Carhartt jacket I used last time.

That's about all I have. Other than tools and spare parts. Which I haven't used yet. Well other than the Motion Pro tire irons and walmart battery powered air pump. Those both work great.

If I think of anything else I'll let you know.

Best,
EcoJuan
John

[JDowns]

Originally Posted by Eagletalon

Hello Juan:

I really have been enjoying your RR !!! Like your simplistic way of traveling around las Americas. Between you and Radioman my winter has been spent reading!!! Thanks for the constant updates as I can imagine is hard work!!!

Cuidate
John

Hi Eagletalon,

Glad to have you along for the ride. It's my job to keep you entertained while you sharpen your talons and get ready for your next ride.

I have plenty of time to type these up. I'm hanging out in a tent. 12 hours of darkness tonight and I sleep six. What else am I going to do for the other 6 hours? I can only listen to so many podcasts and study so much Spanish.

Besides, writing ride reports is fun. I've met a lot of nice people that I wouldn't have even known to look up if it hadn't been for typing these up every day. Plus all the great ideas that you guys throw out have made this a way more interesting ride than I would have imagined.

Best,
Juanito

[Dracula]

John,

Can you please write us something about how you manage to stay safe, by pure luck, doing research and go around places you are not supposed to be, or safety down there is just not a concern, and anyone with common sense could travel safe. I have a Colombian colleague who claims when he visits home never takes out his cell phone except in public places that have security, or wears a watch or other personal items that would be desirable, he dresses plainly not like in USA. During my Alaska trip last summer I met and spoke to some Colombians who said if I wanted to ride there, I better not take "that motorcycle" (my GS 1200) as it attracts attention and I may be asked to "donate it". Not that you would have to worry about that, but I just love the comfort of my 83 K miles fat girl and she is all I have now and am not going to buy a second bike for the trip South, I have traveled and got lost in central Mexico and felt people were genuinely nice, but occasionally you can sense a weird vibe now and then, Then one night in San Miguel De Allende I heard what appeared to be fireworks but were in fact AK 47 shots I learned later about. If you can speak about similar encounters and how you handle it, it would be great info. This is all coming from someone who was kidnapped at 7 years age by Romanian gypsies and managed to escape out of pure luck, so perhaps biased

Cheers,
Vic

[tricepilot]

Originally Posted by JDowns

REI expedition socks are the best socks I have ever owned. I only have one pair and wash them regularly and they are bomb proof.

That's because he left his other pair at my house

[JDowns]

My camping spot in the morning light:



The owners diesel Landcruiser pickup. This one doesn't look like it sees much adventure:



I like the older Landy pickups that cruise the mountain roads. Beat up with parts hanging off, they have a retro Indiana Jones flair.

I was getting blown around on the road last night and the tent was flapping all night. This morning I see that I have landed in wind farm central:



I'd never stood at the base of one of these windmills before so had to hike over and feel the power of the swoosh:



The door at the base was locked so no climbing up in the tower for a look see. Just standing there looking straight up at ginormous blades going WHOOSH………..WHOOSH………….WHOOSH. They make quite a rhythmic racket cutting a swath through the air.

Walked down to the river next door:



The pool looks cleaner. At least it will be when Pablo finishes skimming all the leaves that blew in last night:



Think I'll get out those flame jams that Alain from Bacalar gave me as a going away present and go for a dip before heading over to the beach.

more later…..