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Old 05-11-2015, 02:38 AM   #1
c4traz OP
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 40
Melbourne to Munich on a DR w/o carnet via Korea, Japan and Mongolia

Hello adventure riders,

In case you care I would like to let you take part in my journey home wards. I started in the 2nd week of April 2015 and am currently sitting in Seoul, South Korea waiting for my bike to arrive in Busan. I hope I can find the time in the next weeks to write bit by bit about the Australian leg of the trip. Since I'm traveling solo and also working as freelancer it may be slow. But I hope that way I can get in touch with bikers along the way.

After working in Australia the last 2.5 years I got tired of the nasty Melbourne weather and those skinny jeans wearing buggers who think they should brew beer from rhubarb and headed off from Melbourne towards my beautiful home of Bavaria where craft beer is outlawed since 1516. My first big bike trip took me around South East Asia, so that route was ruled out. But I worked out I can do it even without spending 1000s on a carnet via East Asia, Iran would be the only country to avoid. And I would only need to put it on a container ship once to get it off Australia. Korea, Japan and Russia are well connected via ferries. So far the theory.

I contacted pretty much all companies somewhat in the cargo business to get quotes and did not end up with a whole lot at all. Just for the sake of saving someone a bit of time, I did not get a quote (or reply) from any of these: DHL freight, Virgin/Toll group,
quantas freight,,,,,,,, (recommended by many others, but seems dead now),,,,,,,,,,

I did get a quote from Ever Global International from Darwin to Japan but at about 2000 AUD quite pricey.
So after many weeks of googling and writing endless emails I finally did come across "Bikes Abroad" and Ivan gave me a quote for 937 AUD (excluding port charges at arrival) from either Melbourne or Brisbane to either Korea or Japan. Sweet!
Update: In Busan I had to cough up another 860.000 Won (1000 AUD) in fees, inclusive the 105k for 14 days insurance

Weapon of choice is a 2003 DR650 (a bargain for 3200 AUD) with a Garmin 62s that doesn't necessarily keep me from getting lost, and brand new Heidenauer Scout on the rear. Lots of thought went into soft vs. hard panniers with the cheapest option - Australian made - being 895 AUD excluding shipping:

But then do I really want to spend about a 1000 dollar, a third of my bike's value on two metal boxes? That's multiple times what my gear is worth. Shall they steal my dirty underwear, I don't care. I went with two no name pannier bags and a large duffle bag from an ebay warehouse seller named tour-pak. They were on special and cost me in total about 150 AUD, all the straps on the bags were utterly useless to fix them in any way to the bike and in the meantime I have cut them off. They hold onto the bike with a velcro flap and come with a rain cover. I put some additional velcro around the end of my seat as well, so that I can put one on without the other one holding against it. A rubber strap each just in case and a cargo net over the duffle bag and I'm ready. It surprisingly holds well and is not the only ebay cheapo or 2nd hand item of gumtree on my bike. And who needs a tank bag for hundreds of dollars? Am I the only one who thinks that's insane money for a storage bag? Search for "bicycle bag" on ebay and you may be surprised what the friendly guy in Hongkong sends you with free postage starting from a few bucks. Ok, it does not come with a touratech logo hence you are somewhat invisible to most people at the Horizons Unlimited meeting but it holds a small map, mobile or camera and that paper you need to show to some official at the next boom gate just fine. :)

The racks came from in the US which including shipping still were far cheaper than anything in Australia (something is wrong down under, seriously). Instead of a center stand I got one of these Australian made portable prop stands in my tool bag:
That saves you at lot of dollars and kilos and you can use it to get either wheel into the air.

So I set off on my trip and after 10 km a car driver gave me a wave and I thought, oh well, probably lost my cheapo paniers at the last pothole. But turns out it was a rear signal bulb. Must be a good sign. ;)

Approx. route so far (not actual gps data), as of 13/06/15, ca 12,000 km

First day, first hitchhiker, a lucky charm back home.
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Typical Aussie chicks, staggering home from the bar early in the morning.
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c4traz screwed with this post 06-13-2015 at 12:55 AM
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Old 05-11-2015, 03:22 AM   #2
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Joined: Aug 2002
Location: Toronto, ON
Oddometer: 57,130
Best wishes for a safe journey home and thanks for taking us along

Will you be able to register your bike in Germany once you're home?
ADV decals, patches & flag? Here
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Old 05-11-2015, 04:15 AM   #3
Not the Messiah
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Melb'n, 'Straya
Oddometer: 243
Waddaya mean ya don't like Melb'n weather?
Um, can I come with you?

Good luck with the journey, looking forward to following along.

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Old 05-11-2015, 04:28 AM   #4
Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: melbourne,australia
Oddometer: 138
Nothing wrong with Melbourne weather, at least it don't snow here 😃.

Hope you have a great trip, and a safe one.

You are going to do my dream trip so I will be all ears to hear about it.

Are you going to do the BAM road or Mongolia or just straight through Russia ?
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:02 PM   #5
another DR650 rider
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: RTW, currently Kenya
Oddometer: 278
Good luck mate. Good decision with the Melbourne weather! Hope the dr serves you well.
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:34 PM   #6
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Joined: May 2005
Location: Frankston, Vic, Aust.
Oddometer: 7,101
What's wrong with the weather? It's only 13 C at the moment.....Balmy.

Have a great trip.
05 2 wheels...soon 3 wheels.
84 Kwaka GT750 Cafe Project & 84 Kawaka GT750 Outfit
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Old 05-12-2015, 11:57 PM   #7
c4traz OP
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 40
Originally Posted by ninja97 View Post
Are you going to do the BAM road or Mongolia or just straight through Russia ?
I will arrive in Vladivostok and go through Mongolia as well, I don't want to make too long a stretch in a single country. So hopefully I can visit the Stans and reach home via South/East Europe. :)
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Old 05-13-2015, 12:08 AM   #8
c4traz OP
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 40
The first days

So first day I did the Great Ocean Road (would be great if not so packed with cars), camped behind a backpackers guesthouse and was glad to have brought my ski pants that double as warm wear for cold nites and rain wear on the bike, 2nd day to Adelaide seeing dead koalas and mostly dead kangaroos. A black one just grazing right on the edge of the road. I did not have much practice at all with my GoPro and sadly I think I did not catch much more than the road under my feet the first three days. One bows the head a lot more than one thinks with increasing speed.

Upon leaving Adelaide to the North I was quite happy to see emergency telephones with little satellite dishes plastered all over the highway. Well those would come in handy in the outback I thought. Except they must have ran out of phones about 30 km out of Adelaide. The cross winds were heavy on my neck, hiding in the right distance between a road train helped. Cruising through the vine yards of South Australia was quite nice and more curvy than one would imagine. But they seriously like fences there, more than the most uptight German neighbourhood, just there were no people, cows or sheep near or far... just fences, fences everywhere. You would take a while to find a spot for a tent off the road. I passed Port Augusta where for the first time in Australia I saw a big population of aboriginees. The petrol prices quickly creeped higher (from 1.30 AUD to 1.90 AUD close to Uluru) and the outback folks grew more peculiar depending how big the town is. Biggest town between Port Augusta and Alice Springs is I think the dusty desert town Coober Pedy (aborigenee for 'white man in a hole') with 1700 people. The further you go the calmer you get on the empty highways and slowly a routine sets in, you suddenly take only half the time to pack the bike in the morning or set up the tent in the evening as on the first day. But you spend lot of time on "where the hell did I put x, shit I lost it, damn it was stolen, oh here it is..."

Getting up close to sunrise to pack up the bike, though always avoided riding outside daylight and only had one kangaroo running across the street in what was still safe distance. Cows on the road here and there and the eagles usually take a while till they decide you are big enough for them to take off from the roadkill. The dead kangaroos are mostly not a nice sight, the birds go for the eyes and lower end first. I always wondered where the kangaroo bones go though. Only saw a dingo once.

You see lots of caravans, many Aussies even tow their boat through the outback, pickup trucks that could transport a bike in case of emergency, also the locals have CB radios in their car for communication. It's not even half as wild as the city people make you think (as usual). Little rest areas every 60 km or so give you a bit of shade and sometimes but not always a big water tank where you can fill up your bottle. The signs say it may not be safe to consume but I drank the water and also the unfiltered tap water for maybe a week and didn't have problems. Petrol is available at all roadhouses and towns and I never had to switch to reserve, met a local who did the same roads with a 14 l tank and only needed his jerry can twice. Didn't see many bikers until close to Uluru, the solo ones where locals (one Australian lady on a Harley to her new job in Darwin), the others moved in groups. You also meet solo cyclists around Alice Springs and 4x4 groups that go through the Simpson desert, something I neither have the knowledge, skills or confidence for to do.

The roadhouses always provide a warm meal, and most often come with a caravan park as well. I paid in average maybe 18 AUD for an unpowered site. Expensive for a patch of grass or sand many will think. But after riding 600-700 km that gives you a shower, a nearby place to eat and have a cold beer, a socket to charge your batteries, a place to wash your dirty socks and some other people to talk to.

The size of the cattle stations is nothing short of mind boggling for European standards at least, Curtin Springs near Uluru is one of them with an interesting history

I saw a piece of land for sale in Queensland with 160,000 hectar. Imagine owning a property bigger than the city limits of Manila. Dirt roads with old painted truck tires or similar mark the way to them, but hard to say how far you'd need to go in land. They have their own grocery shop that gets filled with a truck every few weeks.

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Old 05-13-2015, 12:17 AM   #9
c4traz OP
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 40
Originally Posted by GB View Post
Will you be able to register your bike in Germany once you're home?
Probably not a 2003 model, the reason why this awesome bike is no longer sold in Europe is that it doesn't pass the EU emission restrictions anymore.

I learned that after I got the bike but never wanted that to keep myself from doing the trip with it. :)
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Old 05-13-2015, 01:33 AM   #10
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: KL, Malaysia
Oddometer: 125
Hi Martin, great to see you are on the road again. I will be following from Malaysia, so keep those instalments coming. Best of luck and stay safe.

Dean in KL
"don't wait for your boat to come in... swim out and meet the bloody thing"
Barry Sheene
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:35 AM   #11
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Joined: Jan 2015
Location: South Western Australia
Oddometer: 6
Good to see some more Aussies doing the whole RTW thing! I like the way you've set yourself up too, Cheap, simple and it works! Worse comes to worse if something breaks its not great loss and easy to replace. Good luck on your future endevours mate, I'll be cheering you on!!
It doesnt matter what you ride, as long as you get out there and ride.....
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:53 AM   #12
c4traz OP
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 40
More outback riding

Appreciate the feedback, guys. Glad that someone enjoys my yarns :)

250 km outside of Coober Pedy I came across a group of backpackers that tried to make it to Alice Springs in a beaten car against a mechanic's advice. Now they were backtracking, stopping every 50 km for a break to let the engine cool down. They had quite some explaining to do.
Starting from Marla to Uluru the flies became terrifying and I wish I'd have had a hat with a fly net. Especially when you put the tent up. More than once I slapped my glasses out of my face. Uluru has 3G reception while 130 km before I had to use a good old coin phone. :)

As a European we often have a somewhat romantic view of the Aborigines. Sitting in the sand clapping sticks, exchanging dreams with an emu and painting caves, I thought. But they are usually busy begging in the cities for money that goes straight into a pokie or lying on the street, empty eyed. In Alice Springs you could pick a random 20 and you would have a good crew for the next Resident Evil movie. In those 2.5 years I haven't come across one that works, with two I was not quite sure but they really looked more like Indian immigrants. The white man has done some terrible things to them, and sort of gave up expecting anything from them, so have they themselves it seems.

After Alice Spring where it was a bit greener, I saw a car at the roadside with about five Aborigines. The signs already said it's 2 km to the next roadhouse. Since further South they advertise restaurants that are 400 km away, it's relatively close for outback standards.
He said I'd be the first to stop and gave me a high five. They would have run out of fuel. My eyes wandered to the older lady with the slightly unkempt hair and those two mango god gave her jumping out of her shirt in any direction, staggering (or dancing, not sure) and yelling while holding a VB can in one hand and a jerry can in the other. I figured they haven't run out of beer yet. But you gotta set priorities, after all it's hot out there close to noon and you cannot drink petrol. I offered to fetch them some and was more thinking of 2-3 liter, though the guy went to bring me the 30 liter canister not the 5 liter one the lady was dancing with. "Well not sure if that will fit under my jacket", I thought and tried to reason with him for a short while. But hey, I left the engine running for a reason. Will he think about why a foreign guy was the first to stop? Not sure.

At the roadhouse then another car with Aborigines also with no fuel cap (but at least a sock stuffed in), and also no license plate came from a dirt road strewn with empty cans. The petrol stations seem to be their new watering holes. An old Aborigine walked up to the girl and said "VEEBEE", the girl with what seemed to me was a UK accent treated him courteous like any other customer "six or 12?", he replied "VEEBEE". After serving him she continued burning garbage in a oil drum outside.

For quite some time I wondered how VB can be the most sold beer in Oz even though you never really see people drink it... until I got to the outback.

Further East I met a contractor who gets his hands dirty in remote places since many years and shared the story of how he was servicing those 300.000 $ homes the government puts up for families in aborigine communities. They used the cabinet doors for a camp fire in the living room and after the toilet was filled to the brink and wouldn't flush anymore they continued doing the same with the shower. You may want to think again if your job is really so bad.

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One of the rest stop water containers, signs discourage you to drink it though.
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Bangers, mash, pint. Fuel for another day.

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The guy at the bar is trying to make a deal for some Aborigine art.
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This photo holds a lot of true blue Aussie culture. You see thongs, tatts, stubbies, Bali singlets and drunk people arguing. Found the mistake? Yep, the person who appears to be working is a Kiwi. ;)
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c4traz screwed with this post 05-21-2015 at 07:17 AM
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Old 05-22-2015, 02:16 AM   #13
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: melbourne,australia
Oddometer: 138
Looks like you found the real Australia
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:31 PM   #14
c4traz OP
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 40
Going East, changing tires, hitting coast, leaving Oz

17/04/15 I catch the first rain in Alice Springs since months and it doesn't stop all day, my jacket and shoes are drenched, the tent won't dry, decide to stay another day and make laundry under the shower. Hang out in the laundry room as it's the only sheltered place. I help the camp site lady with the empty cans and she gives me a ride to town. Pretty disappointing, but at least I can fill up on cash and visit a post office.

18/04/15 Who would have thought I need all my warm clothes, the jacket inlet and the ski pants I took for riding in rain around Alice Springs, it's pretty cool out there in the morning and suddenly the rain comes back, first time I put the pannier rain covers on. Later it gets very warm or rather hot, changing again. In Tenant Creek on the way you see once again police babysitting abos already in the morning, bouncers in front of bottle shops. I meet young guys, AMOS, who go to the Aborigine communities in huge offroad ready trucks/buses to celebrate Christian services, I see my first dingo. Make it to Barly Homestead, the crosswinds in the plain lands are horrid, as if they'd rip your head off, passing road trains make it worse. Though you can't work it out if they are full or not until they pass, empty ones are harmless. Women's day celebration in the pub, big event for the youth on the stations, they see their friends not too often I reckon, they dress up like neat cowboys, the girls in retro dresses, first I thought must be a theme party but that's their going out wear. Nice folks though, the bartender has to tell some truck drivers to "pull their head in", they don't get to see too many women I guess. Surprised out there is no prostitution at all. In Germany that's normal along the autobahn.

19/04/2015 Strong crosswinds again, thousands and thousands of termite hills in shapes like desert buildings, the locals put shirts on the man shaped ones, sleeping in Kloncurry, even in shit holes likes that you meet backpackers serving in the pubs or working on camp sites. I see a herd of camels close to the road taking off.

20/04/2015 Boring ride ever since I went towards East, around Mt. Isa is the only part which is somehow fun to ride in the whole outback. So glad to leave it, you'd want to do this on a Harley, or maybe not at all. I hoped to make it to the coast today but when I stop for gas in Charters Towers I see my rear tire... lucky me. I call two local bike shops, one Suzuki dealer has the DR650 stock tires, sweet, appointment tomorrow morning, could have been stuck for days here if not. The town is very pretty, old gold rush place with even a stock exchange.

21/04/2015 Only one on the tent ground, a runaway dog decides to take off with the kangaroo tail bone I took of a skeleton and left in the sun to dry. He comes back without it, happy as a clam. I call the town council from the dog's tag. The owner comes soon after and leaves after the dog's running towards him without saying "thank you" or "hi" for that matter. Sure buddy, like I have no other things to deal with than your dog. The Heidenauer only lasted me 5500 km. The front Pirelli or what it was lasted about 7500-8000, I decide to change both. The guy says chain and sprocket would need replacement half way to Brisbane (I don't think so). 362 AUD for everything including two new tubes at Gold city motorcycles, short ride to Townsville.

22/04/2015 Notice they left out the front rim lock in favor of a hole. Great... I can't be bothered to go back, would cost me too much time, have to catch the ship cargo cut off date. Also notice a missing screw on the bar holding the safari tank and one of the engine case cover, but no leaking oil.

24/25th Riding down to Caloundra, staying in tiny towns. In Rolleston, one Chile and one Columbian backpacker girl working at the bar, they say the town has 40 people but yesterday there were 70 in the pub. They have a 2$ pot happy hour. ANZAC day morning in Yarraman, some sweet riding to the coast, the local bikers often twist their head instead of raising a hand or what. Not sure if it's a "Hi" or a "Get lost", looks more like the 2nd, especially when it comes from a Harley rider.

26/04/2015 The very old German lady in the red cross shop gives me rags to clean the bike for free, refuses a donation "all for the trip" she says. I clean bike at a car wash but the water gun isn't giving me any soap, then scrubbing chain and sprocket on the camp ground with a 2$ can degreaser from reject shop, happy no one complains.

27/04/2015 Drop the bike in the morning at MotoLife, all the staff except the secretary arrives on bikes, very friendly service, I have to make a snap decision. Should I leave the kangaroo skull in there? Stuffing it into the tent bag. Not the lil Koala fur though, too risky. They even bring me to the train station which is like a 25 minutes car drive, sweet. Take the train into Brisbane. Staying in backpackers dorm, first bed in weeks, though I rather sleep in a tent then in a room with 6 people where you can't open a window.

28/04/2015 I cancel my health and bike insurance, get a cheque sent for about 60 bucks, can't hurt. Get myself health insurance from worldnomads instead.

29/04/2015 I get thumbs up from Ivan that the bike passed customs, wow, I'm leaving Australia, so sudden, I did not want to book before I knew the bike is leaving shores for sure. Book a plane next morning, 800 AUD direct flight to Seoul, a good deal I reckon, the old bloke in the dorm snores like the sound when you start your old school lawn mower.

30/04/2015 Get up before 5, change the last AUD for a complete ripoff commission at the air port to USD, yes, you shouldn't do that anywhere near an airport. The flight uneventful, a stewardess and a older middle eastern lady ask me to help with her trolley's stubborn handle, it won't fold in. I try hitting it with my fist, the handle breaks and falls apart *cough*, stewardess thanks me anyway and the lady seems unconcerned. Good deed of the day?

c4traz screwed with this post 05-27-2015 at 05:41 AM
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:35 PM   #15
c4traz OP
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 40

Seafood basket in Barly Homestead photo IMG_20150412_185920_zpstnbgijlo.jpg
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Chilling in Townsville photo IMG_20150421_150313_zpsehtilvy8.jpg
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Some souvenirs. Not mine
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The true adventure riders, Queensland museum.

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