loss of electrical power when turning handlebars lock to lock

mmytacist · 10-02-2012, 09:54 PM

my fairly old but formerly holding up splendidly 2001 R1150GS with 100K miles is exhibiting an electrical gremlin. I hope someone here who lives and breathes wiring harnesses will have an aha! moment on reading this description.

When turning the handlebars lock to lock, at some point in that motion, and not always at the same point, I will lose complete electrical power for an instant, then it will all come back (lights, instrumentation, etc). But at that point it is too late of course. The bike needs to be restarted with the starter button. Not cool when you are cornering

Home safe in my garage I can grab the big wiring loom on the left side of the steering head and by gently pulling that back and forth cause the same symptoms I got while riding. So its in there somewhere... I also see the black plastic covering on that wiring loom has split in many location so that I can see the wires inside, but none appears to be frayed.

Any help appreciated.

FYI: for full disclosure, I had just finished replacing my original brake lines with SS lines. The fuel tank was off, but the only electrical connection I touched during the whole procedure was the one you disconnect to remove the fuel tank (on the right side of the bike).

Thanks
Ben

Terry · 10-03-2012, 07:12 AM

It is not uncommon. The short section of harness between the ignition switch and the frame is too stiff and will eventually break. Either the wires themselves, or the switch. Mine did it so that the bike would start and run fine, but would die every time I turned the handlebars to the right. I replaced the harness and switch. Fairly easy job. There is a small set screw that holds the switch in the lock assembly. It is secured with some lock-tite, so you will need to clean that out and then have the correct size (and good quality) screwdriver available. There are some good pictures somewhere here on ADVRider. I think I removed the upper triple clamp so it was easier to get to the lock, but it may be possible to do it without.
Here is the thread from when I did it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569692

Terry

mmytacist · 10-03-2012, 08:02 AM

Excellent, thanks Terry.
Apparently I suck at searches...

Regards,
Ben

Bender · 10-03-2012, 04:06 PM

Buy a new switch, the fix is very easy! Do not drill the old switch bolts out. Looks for a dot of paint on the ignition barrel, dig it out to find a magic allen head screw. Loosen the screw and the switch falls right out.

Peka · 10-03-2012, 07:53 PM

On my 1100 I managed to find the section of cable where it was broken. It wasn't completely broken but enough to cause the same symptoms you have. So I just fixed the break and protected it with some split tubing.

10-02-2012, 09:54 PM	#1
mmytacist ^OP Adventurer Joined: Apr 2002 Location: San Jose, CA Oddometer: 22	loss of electrical power when turning handlebars lock to lock my fairly old but formerly holding up splendidly 2001 R1150GS with 100K miles is exhibiting an electrical gremlin. I hope someone here who lives and breathes wiring harnesses will have an aha! moment on reading this description. When turning the handlebars lock to lock, at some point in that motion, and not always at the same point, I will lose complete electrical power for an instant, then it will all come back (lights, instrumentation, etc). But at that point it is too late of course. The bike needs to be restarted with the starter button. Not cool when you are cornering Home safe in my garage I can grab the big wiring loom on the left side of the steering head and by gently pulling that back and forth cause the same symptoms I got while riding. So its in there somewhere... I also see the black plastic covering on that wiring loom has split in many location so that I can see the wires inside, but none appears to be frayed. Any help appreciated. FYI: for full disclosure, I had just finished replacing my original brake lines with SS lines. The fuel tank was off, but the only electrical connection I touched during the whole procedure was the one you disconnect to remove the fuel tank (on the right side of the bike). Thanks Ben

10-03-2012, 07:12 AM	#2
Terry Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2002 Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado Oddometer: 1,214	It is not uncommon. The short section of harness between the ignition switch and the frame is too stiff and will eventually break. Either the wires themselves, or the switch. Mine did it so that the bike would start and run fine, but would die every time I turned the handlebars to the right. I replaced the harness and switch. Fairly easy job. There is a small set screw that holds the switch in the lock assembly. It is secured with some lock-tite, so you will need to clean that out and then have the correct size (and good quality) screwdriver available. There are some good pictures somewhere here on ADVRider. I think I removed the upper triple clamp so it was easier to get to the lock, but it may be possible to do it without. Here is the thread from when I did it. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=569692 Terry __________________ "The rights of every man are diminished when the rights of one man are threatened." John F. Kennedy, June 11, 1963

10-03-2012, 04:06 PM	#4
Bender I can pass this guy. Joined: Feb 2005 Location: Cypress, Texas. Oddometer: 27,178	Buy a new switch, the fix is very easy! Do not drill the old switch bolts out. Looks for a dot of paint on the ignition barrel, dig it out to find a magic allen head screw. Loosen the screw and the switch falls right out. __________________ Bender™ Searching for the lost Xanadu. The generation that would change the world is still looking for the car keys.

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10-03-2012, 08:02 AM	#3
mmytacist ^OP Adventurer Joined: Apr 2002 Location: San Jose, CA Oddometer: 22	Excellent, thanks Terry. Apparently I suck at searches... Regards, Ben

10-03-2012, 07:53 PM	#5
Peka Beastly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2004 Location: Brisbane, Australia Oddometer: 1,991	On my 1100 I managed to find the section of cable where it was broken. It wasn't completely broken but enough to cause the same symptoms you have. So I just fixed the break and protected it with some split tubing.