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Old 10-13-2012, 12:19 AM   #1
edmondson OP
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04 1150 gs timing adjustment changes

I have an 04 gs with only 8k miles, and the timing will only stay for about 400-500 miles, then fall out of adjustment until it wont turn over like the battery is dead. That happens at about 600-700 miles. I have adjusted the timing about 4 times this summer, and tighten the set screws down pretty tight, but no luck. Any one heard of this, any thoughts?
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:31 AM   #2
mouthfulloflake
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is the hall sensor plate physically moving each time?
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:35 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
is the hall sensor plate physically moving each time?
Must be.

Jim
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:49 AM   #4
def
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My REPROM shows a rotating cup (BMW refers to is as the Hall effect gate rotor) with the HES window under the alternator drive pulley with a locating notch to orient it to the nose of the crankshaft. Further, it states that this rotor should be cemented to the alternator drive pulley with Loctite.

Is your HES rotor somehow loose or changing orientation?

Finally. my REPROM says the alternator pulley bolt is torqued to 50Nm.

Please keep us posted. This is an unusual issue.
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:54 AM   #5
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I adjusted my timing back in the summer, to try and alleviate some pinging with cheap fuel ( didnt really help)

But, even with the 3 screws loose, the plate was not easy to turn.

It is hard for me to envision how the plate itself could move if any of the 3 screws were even barely tight.

Def,chopper plate could be spinning, thats a good call!

I am not familiar with the oilhead chopper plate, but they typically look similar to the blue part in this picture

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Old 10-13-2012, 07:59 AM   #6
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from the bmw parts fiche, part #4 they call it the "rotor"

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Old 10-13-2012, 08:02 AM   #7
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this post and its photos almost appear to show the rotor is 'keyed' into the pulley?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=677362
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:02 AM   #8
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
from the bmw parts fiche, part #4 they call it the "rotor"

Yup, #4, that's the one. It (my BMW REPROM) says it is cemented to the alternator pulley (#5).
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:10 AM   #9
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
this post and its photos almost appear to show the rotor is 'keyed' into the pulley?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=677362
While the drawing in my REPROM is not very clear, reference is made to a key on the Hall rotor and the keyway on the nose of the crankshaft. I suspect that the alternator pulley and the Hall rotor are not cemented to one another as is called for.

Finally, check for correct torque of the bolt (shown as #7 on the fiche drawing) that holds the alternator drive pulley in place.
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:25 AM   #10
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this show it pretty well.

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Old 10-13-2012, 08:50 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
this show it pretty well.

The picture of the plate at the very top right of your post is the plate I have been adjusting. losening the three set screws, and rotating the plate. Poolside has posted a very good description on how to set timing. Maybe I am doing it wrong?

Here is the link: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...iming+poolside
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:22 PM   #12
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
this show it pretty well.

Yup, that's it. However, the instruction makes no mention of cementing the HES rotor to the alternator drive pulley, clearly stated in my BMW REPROM. My REPROM is for a 2001 GS so, there could be some discrepancy. Maybe another inmate who is familiar with the vintage bike in question could fill in the blanks?
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:29 PM   #13
def
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After some searching and reading, here are some observations;

1- It appears that the Honeywell 2AV54 Hall Sensor is getting scarce. I can find it available (listed) only overseas in Italy and Hungary. There appears to be no stock in the USA.

2- The article that deals with the repair of the Hall Effect Sensor assembly seems to have an error in the ignition coil impedance. The article lists the coil secondary impedance between pins 4a and 4b at 13K ohms. My REPROM shows it to be ~7.5K ohms (measured cold).

3- There is no mention of cementing the HES rotor to the alternator pulley. This is clearly mentioned in my factory REPROM;

Affix rotor (5) of Hall-effect gate with
adhesive to the Poly-V belt pulley (3).
Adhesive: .....Loctite instant adhesive or equivalent

That is all.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:39 PM   #14
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edmondson View Post
I have an 04 gs with only 8k miles, and the timing will only stay for about 400-500 miles, then fall out of adjustment until it wont turn over like the battery is dead. That happens at about 600-700 miles. I have adjusted the timing about 4 times this summer, and tighten the set screws down pretty tight, but no luck. Any one heard of this, any thoughts?
Please advise us, how are you measuring the engine ignition timing?

Next, you say, it won't turn over as if you have a dead battery? Have you measured battery voltage while the starter is operated? If so, what do you observe?

Is your alternator belt tight?
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:29 PM   #15
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the honeywell part number thing bothers me, I wish I had bought a couple of them when they were commonly available for $25
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