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Old 10-05-2012, 12:38 PM   #16
bushyb OP
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Thanks. Great ideaI will start it this evening and run it for a while with the charger connnected so it is as full as possible. Then disconnect the battery and charger and then reconnect it tomorrow morning and try it and will let you know.

Hey I am bad man! I did not do what I said and disconnect the battery and reconnect it this morning!!!!!!
I ended up replacing the new battery with the first new battery I had and started it up before I went to bed and just switched it off and left it. I was up early this morning, opened the fuel tapes, gave it half choke, no throttle and she just dragged a fraction and fired right up, so will check it without charging through the day and give a feedback.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:07 PM   #17
BALSEY
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for what it's worth... I jump started my bike from a running car battery and fried my diode board. When I need a jump now I would try from a non- running car.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:55 AM   #18
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for what it's worth... I jump started my bike from a running car battery and fried my diode board. When I need a jump now I would try from a non- running car.
Why would a running car be any different than a car that's not running. Something else is wrong here. Either somebody hooked the cables up backwards or the running car did not have a properly functioning alternator system, in which case this should have been known.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:05 AM   #19
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Okay I have replace the battery with the first new battery I had and charged it fully last night. Then disconnected the charger and took a reading it was 13.41 volts measured at 10:30 pm, I then to a reading this morning at 06:30am and it had dropped to 12.67 volts and went to work. I then took a reading again this afternoon at 5:00pm and the reading was 12.63 volts. I reconnected the charger and it was fully charged within 5 minutes. I then took two videos.
1st with charger connected and plugs removed - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJxu3MCzvio&feature=g-upl
2nd with the plugs replaced.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4HS1NDnWic&feature=youtu.be
You might have to turn the sound up a bit to hear the cranking. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:26 AM   #20
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Choke on or off? If cold, it should be fully on to start. Seems to be turning over correctly.

Petrol on.
Choke on.
Ignition on.
Right hand on closed throttle.
Left thumb on starter.
Depress starter, but don't gas it until you get the engine started, then moderate throttle to keep it running.

Under normal circumstances, you should be ready to jump straight on and ride off with the choke reduced to half, then turn it off after a km or so.

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Old 10-10-2012, 04:01 AM   #21
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It sounds like the timing is advanced too far.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:50 AM   #22
bushyb OP
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Okay I have replace the battery with the first new battery I had and charged it fully last night. Then disconnected the charger and took a reading it was 13.41 volts measured at 10:30 pm, I then to a reading this morning at 06:30am and it had dropped to 12.67 volts and went to work. I then took a reading again this afternoon at 5:00pm and the reading was 12.63 volts. I reconnected the charger and it was fully charged within 5 minutes. I then took two videos.
1st with charger connected and plugs removed - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJxu3MCzvio&feature=g-upl
2nd with the plugs replaced.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4HS1NDnWic&feature=youtu.be
You might have to turn the sound up a bit to hear the cranking. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.
Thanks for the replies. Sorry in advance if I sound a bit frustrated as this has been a thorn in my side for a while now. It seems there is some consensus that the timing is out.
Now I can almost set a ’59 Bonneville’s timing blindfolded because the process is set out step by step and I have done it a few hundred times.I have searched and found a lot of stuff with a gazillion pages a million other issues and models and part etc. I just get totally lost in all the jargon, I am the world’s worst reader – I need pictures. I have not done this on a BMW or VW before. What I am looking for a simple step by step instruction to check the timing on my bike a 1982 R100RS. Hope someone can help with some photos and a step by step instruction. Thanks
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:08 AM   #23
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Timing your bike is very easy,

Buy a strobe timing light

Connect it to the engine

Look at the timing marks with the strobe. They should be at the S mark at idle revs. And stop advancing on the F mark at about 3000-3500 revs. (some bike will have a Z mark instead of an F}

Loosen the 2 bolts securing the bean can and rotate to adjust the timing, (use a kitchen glove so you don't get burnt by the hot exhaust.

Tighten the bean can.

If the timing on the S mark is wrong, but it is right on the F mark, then go with the F mark.

If you don't have a strobe you can very roughly time the bike at idle by rotating the bean can and fixing it where the engine sounds happiest. Usually setting the bean can in the middle of its adjustment range will get the bike started. Ignore all the stuff in the manuals about using special BMW timing tools for setting the initial timing.

Sorry, but no pics!
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:46 AM   #24
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Thanks for the reply. 1982 R100RS. It seems the timing was out quite a bit. But I am not sure its spot on now. Marks on the fly wheel are from the bottom upwards “---“, “S” and ”01” and about 2 inches on there is a “Z”. Note this is an electronic system (no point). Battled to start the bike once it was started we checked the timing with the strobe light which was showing the “Z” mark in line with the crank mark. Loosened and adjusted the bean can clockwise and got the “---” about 3mm above the casing mark, I had to fully rotate the bean can all the way clockwise so it could not go any more to get the “---“ close to the casing mark. When the bike was revved up to 3500 rpm we couldn’t see the “Z” mark but the “---” mark just moved up just a bit. I must say that it idled much better. It started this morning with a touch of the button. I actually couldn’t believe how easy it was.

I am just wondering if this is correct or ”good enough”. My thoughts are that the advance springs (if any) are a bit seized so that there is not a big difference when revving up the motor.
The other though was just like one replaces the distributor on the car and you got to slot it in exactly right to get an equal amount of movement either way on the distributor. Is it possible to remove the bean can and rotate it slightly anti clockwise to centralize it better and replace it without too much difficulty?
I hope this makes sense
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Old 10-13-2012, 01:50 PM   #25
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I usually start my bike with the choke on full but unlike the rest of you I give her some gas while cranking. About 1/3 throttle. If warm out I turn choke off immediately and if cold only turn it half way down for a minute.

My bike does not sound anything like yours. Crank, pause, crank, pause. I also think that is a symptom of too much advance but never sure of this until I check the timing. Do you have an electronic ignition? I guess you do since it is an '82 bike. Be very careful to not crank the engine unless the plug wires are hooked up to installed plugs or the plugs are well grounded. These electronic ignitions fry parts if the coils fire into a blank hole.

You have a good battery and the starter motor is cranking good. It's not either of those.
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:21 PM   #26
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I am a bit confussed. I went back and loosened the bean can and started the bike again then rotated it anti clockwize with the strobe light on it checked it again at all the way back the the ideling was higher and the "Z" was in line with the grove on the casting.
On turning the bean can clockwize again the "Z" moved downwards but the "S or ---" could not be seen and the ideling dropped.
Remenber when I first looked at it the bike was difficult to start and the "Z" was lined with the mark.
So with the bean can fully rotated clockwize the bike starts easy and the ideling is lower.

What now?
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:15 AM   #27
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There are different letters on different bikes unfortunately. My 81 RS has OT and Z

OT in the timing window at idle ~1050 rpm
Z in the window @ 3000 rpm

There is always the possibility of the flywheel/clutch carrier being incorrectly placed on the crank, as in 'one hole out'
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:40 AM   #28
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Hello !
Can I give you my advice ? As I own an R65 RT (special offer in 1982 from French importer based on an RT fairing added to a plain R65).
This bike was heavily used up to 160 000 km then let aside for 10 years, been run on and off since today.
I decided to remove the fairing this year and put it back into use.
As on you bike, the battery, even if new, had big difficulties starting the bike. I was allowed only one stroke of the starter. So if I did not succeed to start it on the first stroke, I had to go to work by foot... I complained to the battery seller and he offered a new one. Same behavior. I tester all the charging circuit but to no avail. Then I removed the fairing and saw that the big positive lead going out of the motor casing had been destroyed by the bar which hold the two fairing sides to the frame !!! I had been lucky because the fairing is plastic, and the frame is well painted so earthing was not good. Otherwise...... Now with the new cable in place, the battery charges very well and keep it. I have a lot of starting strokes available and all is well. I suggest you remove your tank and have a peek... you may get an horror view...
Last but not least, I was quite unable to tune the engine. Even after thoroughsly cleaning the carbs and replacing all O-rings and diaphragms. I asked a competent BMW dealer and he told me to check the advance timing. bingo, it was at full. And could not adjust it properly. so I opened the can to see that the advance mechanism was seized at full stroke. A cleaning and lubricating later, the bike ran very fine.... Bear in mind that the advance springs are very delicate and difficult to source... so do not use your biggest hammer to dismantle the bean can....
Hope this helps !
P.S. I will spend some holidays next April near Rotorua...
I forgot,
OT means TDC so you should have the timing at idle set around 6° BEFORE this. If you do not have an S mark you have to use a timing light with advance settings. The Z mark means full advance and should only show around 3000 RPM. The start of advance (moving from S to Z) occurs at around 1500 RPM. As the bean can is the same for quite every bike using it, advance settings should be the same. Check either the user manual or the maintenance manual or Clymer or Haynes for the exact settings for your bike.

georgesgiralt screwed with this post 10-14-2012 at 02:44 AM Reason: I forgot something.
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Old 10-14-2012, 03:22 AM   #29
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Yes, what George said. S in the window at idle, not OT.
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:22 AM   #30
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There are different letters on different bikes unfortunately. My 81 RS has OT and Z

OT in the timing window at idle ~1050 rpm
Z in the window @ 3000 rpm

There is always the possibility of the flywheel/clutch carrier being incorrectly placed on the crank, as in 'one hole out'
Thanks, Correction I stated "01 it should have been 0T".

I will have to look again. I can get the "Z" at idel and at 3000 rpm. Would this be a problem? I will have to check again. To the best of my knowlge the bike has never been striped or a part.
Thanks
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