The drz400s rebuild, stronger...faster...somthinger!

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Ok, got the cylinder and piston installed
Millenium, with je piston 434 kit.
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Painted the cylinder red, for a little pizazz, lets people know theres a little something special inside.
Gapped the top ring 0.02 mm smaller for a bit more compression.

I bought a new radiator to test it out, very well made, sides twice as thick as stock. Myers super cool radiator
Ill buy a new left one from them too. They say they can rebuild one of their radiators for iirc $45, even if its pancaked flat. The sides are easily twice as thick as stock, if not more.. I dont see them crushing, unless ran over by a dumptruck.

Im buying parts for the head, all kibbewhite, just trying to score a new head

So heres the score, hot rods bottom end, millenium bb kit with 434 je piston, myers super cool radiator. Kibblewhite springs/valves, fcr carb.
Titanium timeserts, with a little extra length for some uber head bolts.
All new gaskets and bearings, plus oil jet.

[bobfab]

If my DRZ motor ever dies ill be heading a similar route!

[rgp332]

Check out Evans coolant to replace the antifreeze,cools alot better and wont boil over ! Use it in a 2stroke I have that was running hot in the slow stuff after that no problem !

[Bobby Ginger]

Just found this, picking up a DRZ tomorow. If I ever have issues this will be handy.

[955616846]

Originally Posted by rgp332

Check out Evans coolant to replace the antifreeze,cools alot better and wont boil over ! Use it in a 2stroke I have that was running hot in the slow stuff after that no problem !

Check again, do the chemistry and the math... While they won't boil over waterless coolants need larger radiators and a larger capacity water pump to maintain the same engine temperatures because they carry ****less**** heat away from the engine per unit of mass or volume.
No boil and zero pressure is attractive, but it shouldn't come at the expense of ever exceeding critical engine temperatures. If an engine is getting hot enough to boil a water/glycol coolant and damage the engine, it will certainly get hot enough to damage the engine with waterless coolant.
The best coolant for cooling efficiency in the DR-Z is still a water/glycol mix...
There is still about 30-40% of the heat produced by the engine passing through the oil to the atmosphere inefficiently through the cases (worse with large skid plates and case savers) and in a round about fashion back through the water cooling system. There are large gains to be made here.

FWIW, I have a couple of Huskies running Evans so I am not blind to its merits, but those two bikes saw considerable effort and money to ensure that it works as it should.

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so a little update, got a new head and all the parts for it, except the hot cams which are on back order for a month. i just need the clutch primary gear and plates. a left radiator and right radiator sensor. i got a e model air boot and throttle cables for the fcr. aside from the cams and clutch primary gear i just need to order a header, ill prob. get a fmf powerbomb. so the parts are trickling in slowly and ive been organizing them and double checking. ive replaced almost every single part on the bike with new,oem or aftermarket. school has the bike on the back burner but ill get pics up as soon as everything is in.

[larryboy]

I would highly recommend that you waste a few gaskets and check your valve squish, you know, modeling clay and check for proper valve to piston clearance.

Stiffer valve springs I hope?

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Got my new header in yesterday

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