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Old 10-08-2012, 06:37 PM   #16
brucifer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo View Post
Are you sure it's not #7? That looks more like the airscrew. (I could be wrong)
I misunderstood. I thought you wanted to know how to remove the slide needle to shim it. Sorry about that.
Yes, 7 is your mixture screw.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:07 PM   #17
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Herb the pic makes it look better than it is in person, but thank you.

brucifer - ah yes thats how I recall the carb looking inside the XL250 I had. Can you remind me how to remove it? I recall a spring on the arm and having to remove a screw...
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:30 AM   #18
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Yeah, the spring holds the link arm on; remove it. Then remove the two tiny screws that hold the link plate to the top of the slide. Make sure you use a screwdriver that fits well and lots of down force so as not to round out the screw heads. The linkage should now come out as well as the needle.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:17 AM   #19
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I either watched a vid or step by step instructions online before; any idea where to see that?
So when I go to add the washer to rihen it up a tad bit, should I open both carbs and add a washer to both needles? Makes sense to me, but thought I'd ask.
Do you know of any easy/cheap way to get a little more throttle response and pep out of the bike? I could remove the snorkle but that won't do anything with the stock exhaust I assume.
Just wondering. Thanks!

Oh, let me go take a pic of the carbs...
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:54 PM   #20
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Left stock carburetor. I assume its an air screw to the lower right of the square. If so, I assume I have it set as rich as possible, correct?




The bottom of the carbs




The right carb. Idle screw is at the upper right.




Left carb after I dremeled off the tab. I turned it all the way in which would RICHEN an air screw. Stock setting was 1.75 turns out. I set it at 1 turn out. I forget, should this make it easier (richer) to kickstart, or is it the raising of the needle that makes it easier to start?



I hope this helps me and others to follow.
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:16 PM   #21
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Looks very similar to the '84-'87 XL250R setup...

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Old 10-09-2012, 01:50 PM   #22
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Yes it does. Please tell me what you know about them. I'm looking for info! Thank you!
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Old 10-09-2012, 02:00 PM   #23
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I learned to not neglect a perfectly good carb. I bought my XL250 brand-new in '87, but in later years parked it for years at a stretch. On a couple occasions I left the petcock on, letting an entire tankful of gas evaporate through the carb bowl vets, coating every surface in the float bowls with slick, hard green varnish.

Don't do that.

And then while removing the carbs to clean them, I heard the intake boot crack. From then on it had a nasty intake leak and it never did run right. And the choke didn't work, making the bike nearly impossible to start without ether.

In a nutshell, keep the carbs clean and happy so you don't have to remove and disassemble them. Keep the tank filled with fresh high-octane gasoline, shut off the petcock when the engine's not running, and drain the carb float bowls if you're not going to run the engine for a couple days.

Here's how I fixed mine: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788941
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Stretch67 screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 02:07 PM
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:57 PM   #24
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Anyone know of a site for XL XR 350R info? Even an old site with lots of info...
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:15 PM   #25
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Nowhere close to an XL350, but I think the description and pics sum up what has to be done to remove my XL's needle and raise it.

Anyone have any advice on raising the needle 1 or 2 little washers?
And should I raise the needle of the 2nd carb?

http://crfsonly.com/howto/450x/jetti...jet-needle.php


Ahh, I finally found it. Here's the pics I followed on my XR250L. I bet the XL350R carb is very similar.

http://rickramsey.net/CRF230Fcarb.htm
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:30 PM   #26
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Raising the needles is not the way to make it start easier. You can try a larger pilot jet.
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:11 AM   #27
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More info: The XL Page...

http://www.oldrice.com/xl_page.htm
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:34 PM   #28
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I hope to get to this soon. Anyone have any advice on whether I should use 1 or 2 washers below each needle?
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:35 PM   #29
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Done, I put 2 washers below each needle.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:21 AM   #30
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I've just done extensive work on this subject

Just joined the forum so that I had some place to share the information.

If the washers don't work I suspect I can help you.

The previous poster that suggested a different pilot jet was exactly right
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