My life aboard a BMW R80ST

[hardwaregrrl]

Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler

Don't forget the little gasket doughnuts that go on the upper studs which hold your timing cover on. Forget those and your new gasket won't seal right

Yep, I do have them! Thanks AW!!! Got any advice on the stud?

[Airhead Wrangler]

Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl

Got any advice on the stud?

Sorry, but I've been lucky enough to have never pulled one. Thread insert, ho! Good luck.

[Stan_R80/7]

Now that you have done this job, the next time it will be easier - especially if the old chain is cut off with bolt cutters. That is, provided the sprocket teeth and bearing look good. After (sucessfully) going through all that with the timing chain replacement (especially the bearing and sprockets) installing a helicoil is fairly simple.

There are some specialized kits for repairing the studs in the engine case, but a standard helicoil should work great. Of course, the cylinder must be pulled and some tape/protection put behind the stud hole to drill it out for installing the helicoil. The access provided by removing the cylinder should be enough to get behind the stud hole.

The tap (provided in the helicoil kit to cut the threads) can be packed with grease and cleaned frequently to catch any chips that may fall into the engine. Drilling the oversize hole for the tap is where the tape and access behind the hole are important to catch metal chips from falling into the engine. Use WD40 on the drill bit and hole when enlarging the engine case hole to make cutting easier.

The only advise I can give is when tapping the helicoil hole, use a tap guide. The tap guide helps get the threads started straight and makes the job easier. A tap guide is not required, but really helps.

A tap guide is usually made from a piece of (1"x1") flat wood or aluminum stock (aluminum is better) ~ 3/8"-3/4" thick with a hole slighly larger than the tap drilled in a drill press. If the tap guide is made first, it can help (but is not critical) for drilling the oversize hole. WD40 on the tap hole would be good here also - just make sure any tape to catch metal bits does not come off from soaking in the WD40.

Good Luck! [insert legal disclaimer here]

p.s. The above is how I would approach installing a new helicoil to repair a stripped engine case hole. YMMV.

Edit: Not that you may even want to know (but, it's too late - I'm in this far): here are a couple of links to tap guides and how to use them.
http://www.amazon.com/Hand-Tap-Guide.../dp/B000ZN30U4
http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/sk...hand-drilling/

[hardwaregrrl]

Thanks Stan......I'm gonna go this route. I'm lucky enough to have a shop that allows me to use their fancy schmancy tools and what nots.....so I'll drag the bike out to Watkinsville early in the AM. I had thought about going the helicoil route, but this is a learning process and I want to do it the correct way. Since it's a top stud, I was nervous about blocking the oil feed hole...and the jig supplied will get rid of that fear. After I read this, I decided to do it the proper way. I'll try and take pics of the process.

[Stan_R80/7]

Oh, yea, those top studs supply oil the the valve train. I forgot about that. There is no back access to the hole. Whoops.

It looks like you have a good plan to fix the stripped threads. Good luck!

[hardwaregrrl]

So that HPD tool is the schiznit!!!

STep 1 Remove stud



Step 2 install drill bushing



Step 3 drill bit ready with grease



Step 4 Drill it out!



Step 5 tap it



Step 6 clean it and vacuum it out



STep 7 Install insert with bad ass loctitie



Step 8 Let the insert cure



Step 9 install bushing for oil passage



Step 9 drill oil passage



Step 10 Admire your work



Step 11 Stud back in the block.






So I had a little more time and put the oil pan back on with the nice shiny new gasket.





And just to make sure the oil passage was clear......eureka!!!

[bpeckm]

..........

nicely done... that tool looks the part...

[Renner]

good job!

[Sutherngintelmen]

Hell yeahs Jenna!

[Stan_R80/7]

Cool! Good Job!

This was the 'specialized kit' I referred to earlier - that (quite frankly) appeared to be a drill and tap guide that one could make in the shop w/out much trouble - and certainly *not* worth $500.00. However, seeing it in action (and not done by a paid representative) I have changed my opinion. Thanks for sharing.

[disston]

Nice photos. Thanks for the tutorial.

[hardwaregrrl]

Thanks guys....obviously there is a bit more to it than that, but that jig sure keeps your brow dry. Took about 4 hours and 3 of that was letting the insert cure. I'm hoping for my starter back early in the week, so I can put her back together and getting the timing spot on.....then I really and truly can jet my carbs.

[mark1305]

Very good job, Jenna!

[hardwaregrrl]

Originally Posted by mark1305

Very good job, Jenna!

Thanks Mark

To all you fellas who were asking for a tech day on the timing chain replacement....I'm sorry. I was able to secure some work up until Christamas, I had the time to tackle it this week, so I couldn't wait. Most of the tech you'd be observing would be me fishing for tools in my garage after I'd thrown them in disgust. I'm am happy to help you change yours, but it ain't an easy few hours....hopefully Brad and I can do something in January. Going to pull the jugs and change out the rod bearings, and maybe even attempt to balance the pistons and rods. That one will be a bit easier to show.

[Airhead Wrangler]

That tool is pretty slick. Still, I hope I never have to use it though.