Oil pressure switch leaking, do I need to seal the new one?

mfp4073 · 10-11-2012, 04:01 PM

I may be crazy, but I think I read SOMEWHERE on this site where there was a discussion about sealing the new ones before installation. Have been getting a pretty bad dripper and today realized its coming out the boot of the pressure sending unit so time to replace. I looked all over and cant find what I thought I saw...anyone?

hardwaregrrl · 10-11-2012, 04:12 PM

Try this......

mfp4073 · 10-11-2012, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl

Try this......

thanks!!! Thats what I had read.

Dont see any mention of the oil pressure switch leaking. They are cheap and easy to replace so I wont worry about it.

Bill Harris · 10-11-2012, 05:32 PM

Earlier oil pressure switches had a tapered pipe thread and nned to be snugged. Later ones use a staright thread and used a copper or aluminum washer.

boxerboy81 · 10-11-2012, 06:45 PM

The oil pressure switch seems to leak out thru the connector, not where the bakelite (or whatever it is) meets the metal.
I paid $22 for one a few weeks back.
Easiest way to change them over is to lean the bike to the right, remove left carb with cables attached, remove and replace the switch...reverse order.
Snug, just, seems plenty.

Oil everywhere...

Biebs · 10-11-2012, 07:15 PM

No need to remove carb. - cost $15 I just installed a new one in my 89gs. Only a small amount of oil leaked out bike on center stand. Uses a copper crush washer just tighten enough to crush washer do not over tighten in aluminum block.

Do not have a torque value but you should be able to feel the copper washer crush -

mfp4073 · 10-11-2012, 08:28 PM

$10.80 from huckys.

should be easy to change out.

mark1305 · 10-12-2012, 07:29 PM

Chad, if you get a chance on this or some other parts you should ask Hans if you can ride down and pick up the parts, I did it once and got a ton of info just talking with him.

mfp4073 · 10-12-2012, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mark1305

Chad, if you get a chance on this or some other parts you should ask Hans if you can ride down and pick up the parts, I did it once and got a ton of info just talking with him.

I actually did that when I got my handlebars because I wanted to lay them out on the bike. He was GREAT at making suggestions and such. BUT the cost of gas even on the bike is still more than shipping and the time to run down and back is rather prohibitive considering that from the time I put payment in the mail, I have my parts 2 days later!

But yeah, he is great to work with and to pick his brain for information!

bikerfish · 10-13-2012, 04:50 AM

It's the neutral switch that can be sealed, it's the harder one to replace. I epoxied mine before putting the tranny back in, will it help? who knows, I've had switches leak within a year, and I have bikes that still have the original one from the 70's.
I think it has to do with planetary alignment and sunspots!

daveoneshot · 10-14-2012, 08:44 AM

Thank the Universe for Hans Lowe.

mfp4073 · 10-14-2012, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveoneshot

Thank the Universe for Hans Lowe.

Agreed, he has been so much help on this crazy and wonderful airhead journey.

mfp4073 · 10-17-2012, 10:15 AM

Well that was a 2 minute project. Took longer to write out the check!

Just to note, a 15/16ths deep socket fits perfectly and goes right by the frame easy.

10-11-2012, 04:12 PM	#2
hardwaregrrl Shit for brains Joined: Jan 2006 Location: Atlanta Oddometer: 5,011	Try this...... __________________ Trans Lab RR-broke down in Ontario-2 stroke fun for 200 bucks- TCAT R100 GS racks For Sale My life aboard an R80ST

10-11-2012, 05:32 PM	#4
Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2008 Location: backwoods Alabama Oddometer: 4,019	Earlier oil pressure switches had a tapered pipe thread and nned to be snugged. Later ones use a staright thread and used a copper or aluminum washer. __________________ '73 R60/5 Toaster

10-11-2012, 06:45 PM	#5
boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal Joined: Jul 2009 Location: Oz, Australia Oddometer: 1,644	The oil pressure switch seems to leak out thru the connector, not where the bakelite (or whatever it is) meets the metal. I paid $22 for one a few weeks back. Easiest way to change them over is to lean the bike to the right, remove left carb with cables attached, remove and replace the switch...reverse order. Snug, just, seems plenty. Oil everywhere... __________________ R100RS Gallery, over 1000 pictures...

10-11-2012, 07:15 PM	#6
Biebs BMW Airhead Joined: Mar 2012 Location: Cave Creek AZ Oddometer: 241	Wow No need to remove carb. - cost $15 I just installed a new one in my 89gs. Only a small amount of oil leaked out bike on center stand. Uses a copper crush washer just tighten enough to crush washer do not over tighten in aluminum block. Do not have a torque value but you should be able to feel the copper washer crush - __________________ Airhead 1974 R75/6 & 1989 R100GS

10-12-2012, 07:29 PM	#8
mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better Joined: Feb 2005 Location: Merritt Island, FL Oddometer: 5,527	Chad, if you get a chance on this or some other parts you should ask Hans if you can ride down and pick up the parts, I did it once and got a ton of info just talking with him. __________________ Mark J Merritt Island, FL When a person asks you for advice, they don't want advice. They want corroboration.

10-13-2012, 04:50 AM	#10
bikerfish flyfishandride Joined: Aug 2010 Location: western pa Oddometer: 993	It's the neutral switch that can be sealed, it's the harder one to replace. I epoxied mine before putting the tranny back in, will it help? who knows, I've had switches leak within a year, and I have bikes that still have the original one from the 70's. I think it has to do with planetary alignment and sunspots!

10-14-2012, 08:44 AM	#11
daveoneshot Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Dec 2010 Location: Vermont Oddometer: 258	Thank the Universe for Hans Lowe.

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