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Old 10-09-2012, 01:35 AM   #1
Joined: Oct 2012
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European no man's land - Trip to Albania

First of all - Why "no man's land"? Because that was the impression Albania left us, since entering the country. Impression that changed radically as we started to discover people and places. I at least know that I had not many expectations, but still, I think I had an open heart. I went to discover, to see, to admire. And although the initial plan was to just cross Albania towards Montenegro, we ended up spending our entire holiday in the beautiful Albanian lands.

But let's start with the beginning ... Friday, August 12, 2011, Sibiu, Romania

Helloween are singing in the Grand Square and I am struggling to shove a bunch of shirts, boxer shorts and socks in a side bag. I'm angry as time goes by and I miss the concerts, but a fresh weissbier from the refrigerator and the thought of the trip to come calms me. Finally, the bags are ready, I get out in the yard and mount the on the Vroom-vroom. The "one beer" becomes about four beers ... and I go out in the square to continue with the good mood. I miss the Helloween concert, but at least I make it to Tarja's. Finally I gather a group of former and current colleagues, we share all shorts of memories and experiences, and we get "a little bit" drunk.

The next day, with great difficulty we pull out around noon.

We meet my coworker Marius and his wife, in order to start the trip "softly": a biker meeting about 150km away.

We get there in the afternoon and enjoy the fun until late in the night:

It is here we discover that we have a problem - a broken sleeping mat. So we decide to spend two days on our next sleeping place to wait for a new mat. That is even better - since next place is one of my favorites - Bazias. It is the place where the Danube enters Romania. It is a place where the water is really wide, really calm, not a lot of currents, you can swim without any problems, and you get an amazing view of the sunset.

Almost forgot to mention - the bike is our trusty '99 SV650S

After receiving the mat we start early in the morning towards Macedonia. We follow the narrow winding road near the border with Serbia, we pass through semi-deserted villages, where the few people we see are looking at as as if we were riding an UFO. We arrive at the border where we face a very surprised customs officer: "Where are you going?" "Albania and maybe further" "Albania?!? Why?" "Well we don't know yet, but we hope to find out!" "OK, have a good trip" "Thank you!"

And we are off riding through Serbia. The road is good, almost empty, the sun is up, and it is not too hot, not too cold. Just perfect for riding. Everything in green around us. The sky is an intense blue. I listen to the beautiful rumble of the V-twin engine and to good ol' Johnny Cash. A small tear is going down from my right eye - but it's because of happiness - a bit of freedom at last!

As we were in Serbia before and this time we were looking for something else, we just took the shortest way to Macedonia. Another quick border control and we are riding on Macedonian roads. Landscape is different here, green fields have been replaced by arid mountains. And it is quite hot:

We arrive in Strumica at sundown. This is the last pic we have taken before getting dark. In Strumica we find a cheap and nice hotel (altough I think this was the most expensive accomodation during this trip - around 30 euro) and we sleep for the night. Next day we will visit the waterfalls and head for Ohrid.
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:00 AM   #2
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Looking forward to this


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Old 10-09-2012, 09:08 AM   #3
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:16 PM   #4
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Foarte frumos. Keep posting
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:59 AM   #5
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So let's go ahead with Macedonia then
First of all, it's hot and dry. From our point of view, really hot. Over 40 degrees Celsius. But nevertheless, almost all the fields are being used for agriculture. The Macedonians have definitely not forgotten how to grow real fruits and vegetables. Even in supermarkets you can find ones that are really really tasty, not like the plastic-tasting ones usually found in our supermarkets. You won't find any garlic imported from China or anything like that here. Respect!
In the morning we head for the waterfalls.

They are not really spectacular, I have to admit, but they are still beautiful, the place is quiet, there are almost no tourists, and, most important, it is quite cool, compared to the heat we face on the road. After a bit of relaxing here, we get out in the sun and head for the other side of Macedonia, Ohrid lake.
We pass by many churches:

At some point we encounter a very interesting gorge on the road near Demir Kapija. We enter a tunnel which opens up into the narrow gorge. After the valley, there's, guess what, another tunnel. And the rocks are, I think, about 200m high, and the valley is less than 50m wide. You have the illusion that the mountain is literally falling on you head. You can see the location on google maps here:

Too bad the locals (or the tourists, I don't know) have transformed the place under and around the bridge into a vast public toilet. So you have to make a hard slalom through piles of crap if you want to hike through the gorge. Disappointing, because the natural beauty is really impressive.

The sun is setting as we are closing on Ohrid and I think I get the idea how the Macedonian flag was conceived - or something close to that...

Finally we arrive in the city. Seems to be a quite touristic destination. Many, many people on the small streets of the old city. And at one traffic light, there is this old guy on a bicycle who comes to us and asks us, in perfect English, "Do you need a place to stay for the night?" "Well, yeah, sure we do" "Well then follow me!" So there we go, we follow the push-bike on the motorcycle. The old guy seems to be going as fast as he can - but luckily his house is quite close. Lucky for us too, because it is just starting to rain.
The room is really modest and there is a shared bathroom, but we really don't need much, so we take it for something like 20E.
After a quick shower we go out in the old city and drink a couple of well deserved beers. Honorable mention, I think the beer we drank in Macedonia was the best in this whole trip. Skopsko is the name, I highly recommend it!
After a short but good night sleep we wake up early next morning, with the sun in the window. We have a chat with our host about the city, a bit of history and recommendations, we pack up, say goodbye and we are on our way again. Of course, not before viewing a couple of the sights in the city:

And we are finally on our way towards the (for us, at least) unknown:

So long Macedonia, Albania here we come!
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:13 AM   #6
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Subscribed ! Drum bun !!

Eu am fost akum 3 ani, pe ruta Timisoara-Atena, Pireu. Drumul de la Tirana catre Macedonia este wow !! Trece printr un oras care incepe cu B... Nu mai stiu cum se numeste.... View uri excelente, pamantul este rosu, zici ca esti in alta lume.

Have fun.


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Old 10-15-2012, 12:10 PM   #7
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And then what happened?


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Old 10-16-2012, 11:37 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Dickyb View Post
And then what happened?


The rest will be happening pretty soon, I hope. At the moment I am really stuck with a lot of work, so I don't really have the time to finish the story now. I apologise for this, but don' worry, I will post it soon enough.
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:56 AM   #9
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Here goes nothing - the follow-up:

After circling a bit around Lake Ohrid we arrive at one lone border crossing. There is only us and the guards. It seems not so many people are trying to get through here. Oh well, if this is where the road takes us...
We pass quickly and easily, just using our ID cards. We are being wished a warm "Welcome to Albania!" and we move on.

The road is different - narrower and bumpier than in Macedonia. And there's almost nobody on it. After passing through a couple of villages and seeing the looks on peoples' faces we decide to put away the camera. They don't really look friendly and we are trying to keep a low profile. Also, you don't see any women on the streets here - probably in these parts they are following the Muslim ideas more fanatically. Anyway, we don't want any trouble.

The road just keeps getting narrower and narrower. The landscape is also different. From the fields of Macedonia, filled with growing plants and well fed animals, here we only see unused terrain, trash thrown all over the place and blown by the wind, and skinny cows and donkeys scavenging for food. And, yes, there is one more thing. There seem to be only two means of transportation: donkey-based and Mercedes-based. This naturally means that there is a very big difference between social classes - and there does not seem to be a middle class.

Out of nowhere, literally, we find a restaurant. A mafia style one. It's like an oasis. There is nothing around, just the same landscape as before. The place is surrounded by tall trees and a marble fence. The grass in the yard is green and as nice as the one on a football field. There are rose shrubs all over the place, and the tables are set in between. A few Mercedes cars parked in front. Oh well - this should be a good place to get some food after not eating anything for almost a day. So we walk in and we are wondering: how's it going to be? Will they feed us, knock us out, rip us off? Who knows? So we sit at a table and we see some surprised looks on the waiters' faces - yet, here nobody looks unfriendly. It is really OK. A boy who looks just as intimidated as us comes and explains which food is what on the menu, and then takes our order. Not much later, we find ourselves in front of a very nice nice meal: veal, pork and lamb meat, zaziki sauce, fresh bread and salad. And we though wow, this is going to be expensive - not to mention that we did not get the chance to exchange any money yet...But what the hell, let's enjoy it. It was like nothing before - really, really good. And in the end we were allowed to pay in euro an get the change in Albanian leke. Guess what - it was really cheap too - about 10 euro for the whole thing.

So we are on our way again with full bellies and a really good first impression on Albanian cuisine. Again, the road is more and more narrower, and more winding too.

After some riding, close to sunset, we arrive in the mountains. The road becomes bumpy again, as the sun is descending behind the crest in front of us. We only ope that the road is going to get better at some point - no more plans of getting to the sea this day, we are still 200km away...

The road follows every detail of the terrain. There is no traffic. We really like it - yet it's bumpy and we have to ride rather slowly. There is no village on the road. Here and there we see signs that point to villages, but they are all at least a couple of kilometers from the road.

More and more it looks to us that we will be sleeping with Albanian bears tonight...
And yet again out of nowhere, in the middle of the forest, we find a small restaurant with a guesthouse. There are young people eating and drinking at the tables outside, so it must be good too. And since our first experience of Albanian cuisine and hospitality was so good, we decided to stop there for the evening.

We are received by a man who looks really happy to see us. After trying to communicate a bit, I find out he is actually Vlach: He doesn't really speak Romanian, but somehow we can understand each other. I don't know if this was because of my enthusiasm or because of the Korca beer we so eagerly drank,but after a while we were like two friends or cousins who just met after being apart for a couple of years. At some point he also told me that there are actually many Vlachs in Albania: in Gjirokaster, in Parmet, in Vlora...

And this was not the only interesting person we met. There was also an Italian couple who were traveling in their 4x4. After Morocco and some more north-African countries they were driving through the "exotic" southern Europe too. I am really ashamed that I got a bit drunk and I forgot to ask for contact details. The next morning when we woke up they were already gone. Pity...

We also enjoyed the company of Goje and his friends, from Korca. They spoke really good English, and although they seemed to be rich kids (they had a couple of rather new Mercedes cars) they were not at all like the spoiled brats we see at home and in western countries. Goje also played the guitar really well and we had a very fun evening. They also did not let us pay for the dinner and we really enjoyed many Albanian specialties. Here you can see the Albanian kids, the Italians, and my Lore. I am behind the camera...

Next I will tell you how did we finally reach the sea and about some of the things we've done there.

Stay tuned!
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Old 10-25-2012, 02:47 AM   #10
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I surely will stay tuned :o)
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:45 AM   #11
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Keep it coming :)
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:20 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by asilindean View Post
Keep it coming :)
Indeed, I guess it is time to finish up this little ride report and move on to the next, SV adventures, Caucasus, 2012. But until then...

I am rather ashamed that, by following the main road, we missed the city center of Korca and also the famous Brewery. However, the beer we did not miss. In my opinion it was the best beer in Albania. And the second best beer in this trip, after the Makedonian Skopsko.

Next morning we started late and lazy. We rode slowly and relaxed over and around the mountains again.

We pass by trees, small lakes, herds of sheep, logging activities, bunkers and almost derelict small villages.

And at some point we see these guys:

Eva an Attila are Hungarians, but they are from Romania. We are happy to share a few moments and words with them in our native language, and then we all go our way. They are coming from Montenegro and the sea, and that's just where we are headed.

Road becomes worse, but landscape is just more and more beautiful. The heat is getting us down a bit (it's over 40deg C), but we're still hanging on.

It was here, by the side of a small stream, where we stopped to refresh, where we met this Polish couple who were heading to the sea too.

We rode with them for a while, until they decided that my SV was too slow on the bumpy road compared to their Transalp, so I let them go faster. And since we were behind anyway, we thought that it was a pitty to pass by such a beautiful river in such heat and not take advantage and go for a bath:

And here is the bathing spot:

We like to respect our privacy, so no XXX-rated pics here

But here's a little guy that we met on our way to the water:

This seems to be "it" for today. Work is calling me again. I hope next time I get the chance to share more.

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Old 03-18-2013, 10:09 AM   #13
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Very nice trip! Looking forward to the rest. Cheers from another SV rider.
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:29 PM   #14
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Great reading.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:23 PM   #15
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I look forward to the next installment. Very nice.
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