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Old 10-19-2012, 01:35 PM   #16
vtbob
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I think many people make this a lot more complicated than it needs to be.

Put the bike on the side stand, transmission in neutral, roll the bike back and forth a bit to make sure there is no residual tension.
check the deflection, in the middle of the chain(ie between the front and rear sprockets) with your finger...if you can move it up and down (total movement) about 3/4 inch you are fine.

If the chain is looser...ie total movement up to 2" the chain is loose....no big deal. Have a beer and enjoy the day! If it is more than that adjust chain to 3/4 inch movement.

If the chain is tighter than 3/4 inch....the down side you will wear your chain and sprockets out much faster...when this wear happen.... things will loosen up nicely!!
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:26 AM   #17
Snowy
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What complicates it is something being out of round. mine goes from tight to recommended slack in every full rotation of the rear wheel.

The standard OEM rear sprocket is out of round. I'm wondering if it always was, because it has always made a slapping at certain speeds....or if the slapping is a result of transmission pulses and has worn the rear sprocket out of round...it has slapped since I bought it...and the sprockets and chain have 50,000km on them, but are still in really good condition.

I clamped a screwdriver on the swingarm with the tip just touching the tip of the teeth on the rear sprocket, and then turned the wheel. It's out of round by a couple of mm from the look of it. The front looks ok. It would most likely be the rear, a couple of mm change on the rear takes it from 40mm chain slack, to running tight.


New chain and sprockets just became more urgent.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:28 AM   #18
TowPro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
What complicates it is something being out of round. mine goes from tight to recommended slack in every full rotation of the rear wheel.

The standard OEM rear sprocket is out of round. I'm wondering if it always was, because it has always made a slapping at certain speeds....or if the slapping is a result of transmission pulses and has worn the rear sprocket out of round...it has slapped since I bought it...and the sprockets and chain have 50,000km on them, but are still in really good condition.

I clamped a screwdriver on the swingarm with the tip just touching the tip of the teeth on the rear sprocket, and then turned the wheel. It's out of round by a couple of mm from the look of it. The front looks ok. It would most likely be the rear, a couple of mm change on the rear takes it from 40mm chain slack, to running tight.


New chain and sprockets just became more urgent.
Keep in mind the rear sprocket is only attached to the rear rim by rubber mounts.
They will never be perfectly round, but maybe yours are going bad?
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:08 PM   #19
epicxcrider
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But it's also held in place by the axle, no?

I'd guess all sprockets are somewhat out of round, based on the way they are manufactured.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:01 AM   #20
Snowy
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Yeah the cush drive has rubber mounts, but it's centre is controlled by the bearing.

It appears to be a manufacturing fault, and possibly the source of the "wokka wokka/shimmy shimmy/slappa slappa" noise. Depending on what speed you're doing it makes different noises.

If I use a fixed point at the tips of the teeth and rotate the gap increases on one side and decreases again as it completes the revolution. I'll check the mounting points on the cush drive and see if they're running true.

Standard sprockets, and the chain is still in really good condition. The temptation is to just slacken it off and keep running it until dead.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:39 AM   #21
epicxcrider
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I bet a new one will do the same thing. Gotta look at the bottoms of the teeth to determine how round it is, the tips are arbitrary since they don't actually carry the roller of the chain. Run it until it's dead. Anything with a chain or belt drive has a tight spot, nature of the beast.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:56 AM   #22
MikeMike
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Hey Snowy, you are on to something. When I changed out my chain and sprockets last month, I did so out of preventive maintenance and also because of the pain in the ass tight spot/loose spot deal that I had. It was annoying and where I ride I don't like annoyances, though the chain and sprockets were not that bad as far as wear and "hooking". I wish I had kept the old rear sprocket to check the following, this comes from a guy on the F800 forum on another website (and for gawd's sakes man, do not post on that website as your truth and candor will only go largely unappreciated, Snowy.)

Neiljohn said:
"Quick update, having examined the original rear sprocket closely I'm now convinced the original FACTORY 650 AND 800 (up to 2012 model year) sprockets are part of the chain failure issue, the wear varies depending on where the tooth is compared with the mounting bolt. It looks like the sprocket flexes under load wearing more one side then the other, as it's effectively unsupported and can twist. The replacement 47 tooth sprocket has a much more solid mounting and having seen the NEW 700 and 800 the design has changed on those too..."

http://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...chain+sprocket

I've always thought the original rear sprocket design looked a little too "open" and the outer ring with the teeth a little too "narrow". That is why I wished I had kept my old one to measure it out and see if it was literally "out of round" in the overall scheme of things.
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:21 AM   #23
Reaver
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What if I have an X-Ring chain?????


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Old 10-24-2012, 10:00 AM   #24
Tor
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I put the bike on the sidestand (no load), adjust until the chain touches the swing arm. Done.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:35 AM   #25
Snowy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
Hey Snowy, you are on to something.
Checked the bottom of the tooth, as compared to the tip...they appear to be uniform height, and they out of round appears to be an overall thing, not a wear thing.

I'm getting new sprockets made by a company here that does CNC stuff that's hardened etc. They reckon you'll double the chain and sprocket life of OEM.

100,000kms....cool.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:17 AM   #26
MikeMike
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Originally Posted by Snowy View Post

100,000kms....cool.
Very, cool.
And it would be even better if they could become a supplier to Motorrad!
Back in the day, BMW built a reputation based on a product and the marketing took care of itself.
Nowadays, the marketing budget likely surpasses the R and D and QSC budgets combined many times over and therein lies the problem.
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:03 AM   #27
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GH41 View Post
... Remember that a hot chain will be tighter than a cold chain...
GH41:
Sorry, I'm still on my first cup of coffee for today ...
Why is a hot chain tighter?

Also ... I'll have to pay attention to the rear sprocket on the new 2013 models, I missed the sprocket re-design.
I would hope they are backwards compatible with the older years?
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:56 PM   #28
GH41
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"Why is a hot chain tighter" The hundreds of components that make up the chain expand when hot and the slack between them is reduced. GH
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:48 PM   #29
JRWooden
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I'm with you ....
I was just thinking, off the top of my head, that the link plates would (also) expand thus making chain longer.
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:36 PM   #30
MikeMike
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JR, you are correct.
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