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Old 04-17-2013, 09:45 PM   #151
team ftb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
Those sound like injector issues.

A few tips on injector cleaning. Take the injector out, drown it in carb cleaner/ solvent, put the downstream end in the schraeder valve side of a bicycle floor pump, and blow into it. It'll take quite a few PSI (as high as 80ish), but it will let go and shoot a bunch of junk out. Easily done in the boonies provided you have a pump. No harm to the injector and typically the bike runs great after doing so.

Fantastic info ned. if you had tits i'd kiss ya. info like the above that educates one on how to extract oneself from the jaws of breakdowns in the middle of nowhere are priceless. thankyou. so your backflushing the injector without an electrical pulse to open the injector valve but somewhere around 80 psi forces the valve open, is this correct?




Exactly what I did. A couple tips here as well- take off the non-serviceable clamps and put on fuel injection hose clamps so that you can completely disassemble the system. I have found the small inline filters clog, and you can perceive the problem by blowing thru the line and feeling the resistance. There should be only a small amount, we had a 350 on this trip that was hard to get a breath thru. Removed the small filter and presto the bike ran great again.

My dealer is also recommending a big inline filter in place of the small ones, I don't have one on my bike (yet) but agree with the concept. He's got an aluminum one he has had good luck with, I'll get the brand name and add to the thread when I install one.

I'm guessing the aluminum filter he's suggesting is the golan mini


slavens carries them with the removable fi hose clamps. http://www.slavensracing.com/shop/su...r-kit-by-golan

another thing i've done is remove the quick disconnect from the fuel line. a few people have had issues with the orings getting damaged and then leaking simply during separation and reinstalling the two sides. figure with my luck it will happen to me as well, a bit more inconvenience but vice grips in my tool kit pinches the line closed easily enough.


i'm of the thought that the small cone shaped oem filters get clogged too easily with just a few particles and that the higher surface area of the golan will trap the particles but still have enough surface area to keep enough flow. so i have replaced my cone shaped oem filter with the golan. if anyone see's any reason why this may not be correct please post up.
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:27 PM   #152
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Thank you very much to all of you for the very useful information!!!
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:20 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
a few people have had issues with the orings getting damaged and then leaking simply during separation and reinstalling the two sides.
Yes, pressure will force it open with no pulse.

I carry O-rings, get the viton ones that crap fuel doesn't damage.

And yes, that's the same filter I've seen, will get one soon!
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:36 PM   #154
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We Husaberg riders (AKA the beta release KTM guinea pig test crew) found out the same thing with the fuel filters. The tiny ones near the injector are not good and the Mahle filter in the tank is a POS that apparently does not filter terribly well.

The Golan inline is a great way to go. Cheapskates like me get by nicely with the now semi legendary 11 micron Can Am Quad filter used in all their EFI quads, part number 709000100, cost is around 10 bucks. Put one of these on before you even ride the bike, never have an injector issue, problem solved. 135 hours on my 'Berg, after the standard KTM fuel pump crap out (replaced with Cycle Works pump for a Husky) it has run like a watch ever since. The splitstream filler sock makes it a bit of a PITA to fill the tank, but it is probably a good idea to protect the pump. Got one of those too.

Regarding the fuel pumps, KTM has apparently figured this out. The original "black" pumps were craptastic made in China affairs that stopped dead and then fried their guts when hot, later "brown" ones are made in Italy. Thank your brothers in blue for pushing their bikes out of the woods and suffering that one through for you :)

By the way, if your FI bike suddenly stops running completely, (typically when it is good and stinky hot) it is the fuel pump. This is the fuel pump drill:

1) Tap the starter, listen for whir of pump. No whir = no pumping = no gas = no go.
2) Let the bike cool for awhile. 30 minutes or so. Tap the button again. Try clapping the tank hard at this point to vibrate the pump. This got me out of the woods twice by the way.
3) If you get it running, take an easy way back and replace the pump. Once they lock, they are done. They will lock again and again, with increasing frequency and then finally no amount of tank smacking will revive them.

Final note, don't sit there and crank it unil the battery dies. It will start right away or not at all. It is an on/off deal.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:21 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duken4evr View Post
We Husaberg riders (AKA the beta release KTM guinea pig test crew) found out the same thing with the fuel filters. The tiny ones near the injector are not good and the Mahle filter in the tank is a POS that apparently does not filter terribly well.

The Golan inline is a great way to go. Cheapskates like me get by nicely with the now semi legendary 11 micron Can Am Quad filter used in all their EFI quads, part number 709000100, cost is around 10 bucks. Put one of these on before you even ride the bike, never have an injector issue, problem solved. 135 hours on my 'Berg, after the standard KTM fuel pump crap out (replaced with Cycle Works pump for a Husky) it has run like a watch ever since. The splitstream filler sock makes it a bit of a PITA to fill the tank, but it is probably a good idea to protect the pump. Got one of those too.

Regarding the fuel pumps, KTM has apparently figured this out. The original "black" pumps were craptastic made in China affairs that stopped dead and then fried their guts when hot, later "brown" ones are made in Italy. Thank your brothers in blue for pushing their bikes out of the woods and suffering that one through for you :)

By the way, if your FI bike suddenly stops running completely, (typically when it is good and stinky hot) it is the fuel pump. This is the fuel pump drill:

1) Tap the starter, listen for whir of pump. No whir = no pumping = no gas = no go.
2) Let the bike cool for awhile. 30 minutes or so. Tap the button again. Try clapping the tank hard at this point to vibrate the pump. This got me out of the woods twice by the way.
3) If you get it running, take an easy way back and replace the pump. Once they lock, they are done. They will lock again and again, with increasing frequency and then finally no amount of tank smacking will revive them.

Final note, don't sit there and crank it unil the battery dies. It will start right away or not at all. It is an on/off deal.

FOR ALL YOU DO, THIS BUD'S FOR YOU

sorry duken4ever, couldn't resist. pushing anything out of the woods just sucks. and thanks for the heads up on the fuel pump

my bike has felt just a little off lately. it doesn't feel like i'm getting the big hit i've become addicted to. and i'm getting the slightest bit of surging at cruise when going down the road. i took my inline out a few months ago and was relying on my in-tank to take care of business. bad idea? i'm adding a bd squadron this weekend and was going to adjust the valves and the throttle body as well just to make sure those aren't giving me any problems. and i guess i'll pull the injector and give it a blow-thru. if the in-tank filter isn't doing the job, what have you switched to? are you only using the fuel sock and put the can-am filter inlne after the tank? thanks-jim

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Old 04-20-2013, 07:20 AM   #156
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Hi 240,

I left my Mahle in tank filter in place. The external Can Am quad inline filter is a paper filter manufactured by Walbro and rated at 11 micron (we former bike pushing 'Berg guys are insane about this stuff), which is perfect to protect the injector from anything the in tank filter lets through. I replace the inline filter once a season as a maintenance item. I would like to eliminate the in tank filter altogether and just run the external easily replaced one, but that would require submersion rated hose and redoing my whole in tank system. The bike runs perfect, so I am following the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" train of thought on that one. I doubt I am getting much crap in my tank anyway, as I have had the filter sock since nearly day 1.

Here is a pic of my squirrely little setup, complete with rad hose and coat hanger wire Keeps the filter from bouncing off the 'Berg's horizontal cylinder and wearing a hole in it.

The 'Berg contingent has found that cleaning/restoring the injectors is dicey. If they really do get "plugged" they usually are toast. They can work better for awhile, but tend to give problems over the long haul. Best to replace the injector if it truly has an issue, then be anal about your fuel filtration.



Sounds like your injector is not quite happy. I would try some Techron first and see if that clears it up. Funny thing with FI. If it is not absolutely dead nuts perfect all the time, there is something wrong, and when there is something wrong, it tends to get wronger over time. Don't be discouraged though, it is not rocket science (well it is to KTM apparently) to add a proper micron rated filter to keep these things clean and running great. FI is a joy. I love the response and crisp perfection of it. Add a filter and with a good pump and FI is reliable in my experience (135 hours and counting).
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2001 Honda CR250 (out of state riding buddy's bike stored in CO for his annual epic ride) fills my need for the occasional 2 stroke hit!
2006 Yamaha FZ1

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Old 04-20-2013, 11:01 AM   #157
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Thanks!

Duken4ever thanks for the help. Somewhere someone came up with a solid lower cost replacement for the in-tank filter so I'm currently looking through all the 500 posts on the different sites trying to find it. When I get that, I'll do the in-tank, in-line, injector fix all at once. The bike is certainly not running bad, just a little off. Shoot, could just be a dirty air filter. I'll spend my day today installing my new Squadron and adjusting the valves and throttle body, and cleaning that air filter.
Thanks again. Happy Trails!
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:39 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duken4evr View Post
I left my Mahle in tank filter in place. The external Can Am quad inline filter ... Add a filter and with a good pump and FI is reliable in my experience (135 hours and counting).
Great post!

Is there a part number handy for the Can Am filter?
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:56 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
Great post!

Is there a part number handy for the Can Am filter?
Hey Ned


Part number is 709000100, I think it's used on a variety of vehicles by Can-Am and Bombardier.
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:04 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
Great post!

Is there a part number handy for the Can Am filter?
I think that he mentioned it some posts ago:

Quote:
The Golan inline is a great way to go. Cheapskates like me get by nicely with the now semi legendary 11 micron Can Am Quad filter used in all their EFI quads, part number 709000100, cost is around 10 bucks.
Thanks to all for your contributions!
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:33 PM   #161
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Oops... Lukas and I posted at the same time!
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:08 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duken4evr View Post
We Husaberg riders (AKA the beta release KTM guinea pig test crew) found out the same thing with the fuel filters. The tiny ones near the injector are not good and the Mahle filter in the tank is a POS that apparently does not filter terribly well.

The Golan inline is a great way to go. Cheapskates like me get by nicely with the now semi legendary 11 micron Can Am Quad filter used in all their EFI quads, part number 709000100, cost is around 10 bucks. Put one of these on before you even ride the bike, never have an injector issue, problem solved. 135 hours on my 'Berg, after the standard KTM fuel pump crap out (replaced with Cycle Works pump for a Husky) it has run like a watch ever since. The splitstream filler sock makes it a bit of a PITA to fill the tank, but it is probably a good idea to protect the pump. Got one of those too.

Regarding the fuel pumps, KTM has apparently figured this out. The original "black" pumps were craptastic made in China affairs that stopped dead and then fried their guts when hot, later "brown" ones are made in Italy. Thank your brothers in blue for pushing their bikes out of the woods and suffering that one through for you :)

By the way, if your FI bike suddenly stops running completely, (typically when it is good and stinky hot) it is the fuel pump. This is the fuel pump drill:

1) Tap the starter, listen for whir of pump. No whir = no pumping = no gas = no go.
2) Let the bike cool for awhile. 30 minutes or so. Tap the button again. Try clapping the tank hard at this point to vibrate the pump. This got me out of the woods twice by the way.
3) If you get it running, take an easy way back and replace the pump. Once they lock, they are done. They will lock again and again, with increasing frequency and then finally no amount of tank smacking will revive them.

Final note, don't sit there and crank it unil the battery dies. It will start right away or not at all. It is an on/off deal.
So,if the fuel pump locks during a race.............do they stop the race and let you tap and clank on things?

I was just wondering.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:20 PM   #163
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You guys seen this headlight?

Enduro-Tech LED Hi/Low (4500/1800 lumen)

http://youtu.be/jWQkFKjN2LY

http://youtu.be/IlCYtaAadgY

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Old 04-28-2013, 03:28 AM   #164
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You guys seen this headlight?

OMG....... Simply SPECTACULAR!!!!! If the price is right, they're going to sell a ton of them!
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:01 AM   #165
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Currency converter puts it at round $445 (1840 Polish Zloty)
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