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Old 01-14-2013, 10:54 AM   #2611
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Originally Posted by tee bee View Post
Don,t suppose you got the early morning knock by the matriarch, to vacate the room ?
Ha,ha I think that is same one we stayed in also.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:13 AM   #2612
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Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post
At least the Brits dominate extreme enduro with the top 3 riders in the world
You wish ! Taddy is beating them all hands down,....

Back to this RR
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:31 AM   #2613
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Originally Posted by mario33 View Post
You wish ! Taddy is beating them all hands down,....
Taddy Schmaddy .... Reads em and weep ...

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Old 01-14-2013, 11:40 AM   #2614
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This thread needs to get back to the good stuff.

Look… It's not in my nature to be mysterious, but I can't talk about it and I can't talk about why.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:15 PM   #2615
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Originally Posted by GSlite View Post
This thread needs to get back to the good stuff.
I wholly endorse the idea of moving a good piece of this conversation to the Jo Momma sub-forum for Comparative Studies of Central Asian History. I am much enjoying the photos and narrative of this trip, however.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:52 PM   #2616
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Originally Posted by ROD CURRIE View Post
There's a great story in one of the GK books I've read of a debate ordered by Genghis Khan to get closer to which religion was "right". Buddhists, Christians, Jews Muslims, etc were all invited.
It started off well with cogent points being made although not always agreed with, but the Christians were drinking and as the debate got more heated and accusations were levelled they were getting more pissed ( drunk) and started shouting back. In the end they stopped listening and started signing hymns to drown out the other religion's representatives in a childish "Lah lah lah I can't hear you" way. . It's a scream. Good that our religious scholars are so mature. Plus ca change, plus c'est le meme chose.

Jerusalem today anyone?.

There's more and it's much better than this-I'll see if I can find the section tonight-unless someone has it already?
According to William of Rubruck's account of the debate (William, refrenced by Walter in post #2592, wrote"wrote the most detailed and valuable of the early Western accounts of the Mongols"):

" I said: "You should in the first place inquire what is evil, before you ask whence it comes. But let us go back to the first question, whether you believe that any god is omnipotent; after that I will answer all you may wish to ask me.

He (the Buddist debate leader) sat for a long time without replying, so that it became necessary for the secretaries who were listening on the part of the Chan (Möngke Khan) to tell him to reply. Finally he answered that no god was omnipotent. With that the Saracens (the Muslims) burst out into a loud laugh. When silence was restored, I said: "Then no one of your gods can save you from every peril, for occasions may arise in which he has no power. Furthermore, no one can serve two masters: how can you serve so many gods in heaven and earth?" The audience told him to answer, but he remained speechless...."

"....They all listened without making any contradiction, but no one said: "I believe; I want to become a Christian." When this was over, the Nestorians (sect of Christianity found in the Mongol capital and elsewhere in Asia) as well as the Saracens (Muslims) sang with a loud voice; while the Tuins (Buddists) kept silence, and after that they all [J: everyone] drank deeply."

It appears Rod, (according to William's personal account) that only after the debate was finished did the singing and drinking begin.

Fascinating to read William of Rubruk's first person account of his 18,000km journey from Constatinople to Karakorum and back. Thank you Walter for the history refrences! As others have said, I think what fascinates readers of this thread most in addition to your beautiful pictures and funny personal stories is reading about the histories and culture and the people of the places you are visiting. Kind of like the adventurers of old!
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:23 PM   #2617
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Originally Posted by ROD CURRIE View Post
Such is life, I'd plenty so we siphoned 3 or 4 litres out and bashed on...and on. We slowed down to 50 to conserve fuel and got to a gas staion just as his bike was on the last drops-and gratefully filled up.
Naturally there was a station every 500 yards now!

Hah! The trusty and reliable KTM saves the day!'s just that I never get to say that.

So Rod.....

Did you have a short memory and attempt to charge extortionist rates for those 3 litres? Or did you have a longer memory and recall the 1K km of towing?

Quick (hopefully) hijack - Fairings vs not, would love your input.

From what I can see, Walter and Rod have the full rally style fairings, while Terry, Prutser and Beamster seem to have the minimalist wind screens.

Clearly there must be some advantage to the amount of wind/elements fatigue, otherwise every single rally bike wouldn't be built like that. But I'm wondering if there's a way to perhaps put a subjective number on it?

If you were to do the same routes with and without, would it be, say, 20% less fatigue?

Did any of the riders without the extra protection ever feel like it would have been nicer to have it?

Thanks in advance.

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Old 01-14-2013, 02:07 PM   #2618
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Prutser, is this the last we see of you and Beamster? If so, thanks for the ride! I loved what you guys added to the trip and now I have more than a few questions coming your way about that airhead...
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:36 PM   #2619
we can rebuild him.
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Originally Posted by ROD CURRIE View Post
In the pic, Lyndon is wearing the Adventure-Spec hat that should be sold as " Wear this and look like a knob"..he's a good lookin' guy but you'd never know it.
I can see I need to talk to both Dave and Chris at AS and Lyndon, and improve the sartorial element of the range.
Rod, Chris doesn't do 'sartorial' but at least the dreads are gone nowadays

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Old 01-14-2013, 03:47 PM   #2620
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Day 65 550KM left....

In the morning Beamster started to make us breakfast while I packed the tent. When we were ready to go it was still pretty early, so there was no need to rush as it would only be 550 km to Irkutsk.
We took the same route from the campsite back to the main road which was a nice start of the day.
Once we were back on the tarmac and there was no more mud left on our tires we cruised on with a nice steady pace.
Until I noticed all the max speed signs, that we really missed so much in Mongolia.
And it didn't take long before I noticed cops on the lookout for a bonus paycheck. Although we did draw their attention, they didn't stop us because they were already negotiating with someone else

By the time we reached Ulan Ude our bikes could use some fuel. But first we had to find a cash point as our pile of rubles had shrunk a bit to much with our extra time in the Altai.
From Ulan Ude we got onto the M55 (Trans-Siberian Highway) towards lake Baikal
Something we were looking forward to. At the start of our 5 week trip we had planned to spent some of our last days at Olkhon Island to relax before we would fly back to our everyday life. Somewhere along the trip for some reason our planning got a little bit messed up. But hey shit happens and we were still happy to see at least a bit of the lake.

As we where getting closer to the lake the weather changed for the worse, the wind picked up and soon after that it started to rain. The road had gotten worse too. There was no more tarmac and the road was not much better than the road from Tsakhir to Tsetserleg in Mongolia.

Finally we saw the first glimpse of "the big lake" A big grey mass of water was all we could see trough the bushes. Which was nothing like what you see in a travel companies brochure Or on Walter's pictures
But we could add it to our list of things we always wanted to see (its still on the list of things we like to see again)

A big part of the Baikal Highway (a part of the Trans-Siberian Highway) was under construction when we were there.
And traffic wise it was the opposite of the roads in Mongolia. A big row of trucks that was constantly overtaken by cars, whom were than overtaken by the faster cars. Even in blind corners they just take the risk and just go !
On the side of the road there are many demolished cars which proof not all of them make it.

By now we had done so much km's that our fuel tanks were almost empty again, but hadn't seen a fuel station for a long time.
Even on Beamster's dash a light was indicating she had to re-fill. Which she hadn't seen very often this trip as her bike was the most economical one on this trip. I was probably using the last vapors that were in my auxiliary tank when we drove onto a fuel stations parking place.

Once the bikes where parked and ready to be filled up, I walked up to the window to pay. But I had forgotten how to say that I wanted to fill the bikes to the max. A guy next to me understood what I was trying to say to the girl behind the window and he turned my mixture of russian words into an understandable sentence It worked

Our goal in Irkustk was Nina's place. A guest house in the center of Irkutsk on a 2 min walking distance from the main square. Walter had booked us a room so we wanted to make it there that night.
The rain kept pouring down as we made our way towards Irkutsk. Half an hour after we left the fuel station Beamster made clear she wanted to stop. I had forgotten she needed to go to the toilet. But as the one at the fuel station could be smelled from 30 meters downwind she asked me to stop at a less polluted place.

When I finally found a decent spot to stop, it was already getting dark. Which made the already low temperature drop a bit more. Our gloves were completely soaked and all the water splashing up from the potholes drenched our socks once again.
We had just passed a sign that told us Irkutsk was only 170km further
Because Walter booked a room for us we didn't want to stop and so we pushed on. Otherwise I would have pitched the tent behind some bushes and make it to Irkutsk the next day. But we didn't and now were both shivering until all the wet clothing started to act like a wetsuit again !!!!

Finding Nina's place wasn't that hard with the waypoint Walter gave us. Once there we pushed the doorbell next to the wooden door ! But no response..... We didn't dare to enter the garden because we were warned about Nina's vicious dog that had tourists on the top of his menu.
After another subtle push on the doorbell a friendly lady opened a window and made clear she would come down.
She handed me a cell phone with someone who was speaking french. With the few french words I knew I could tell her that I couldn't understand what she was saying. But when I asked her if she spoke English (which she did) the girl told me she was Nina's daughter and asked me if we were friends of Walter. When I said yes she told me there was a misunderstanding as we should be arriving the next day. At this moment all the rooms were booked.(later when I checked the text message again that Walter had send me, I saw that I had missed the word "NO" room for the night)
But she told us she would get us a room somewhere else in town. She would call us when she had found a place.
Nina invited us inside and made us a gesture to try not to wake the other guests. As It was already 22:30 local time which was one hour later than in Mongolia.

We apologist for our leaking gear, but she said not to worry about it and started to make us a cup of tea.
And she made us some pancakes. Real sweet of her
15 min. later her daughter called to tell us she had found a place 20 min. from Nina's place. We could leave our bikes and wet gear at Nina's. But the woman who owned the other guest house was still out of town for another hour.
Nina gave us a map and showed us where to go and explained us where we could find the entrance of the guest house.
We thanked Nina for her hospitality before we left on our midnight city tour through small dark alleys in search of what looked like a haunted house.

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Old 01-14-2013, 04:02 PM   #2621
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At this moment all the rooms were booked.(later when I checked the text message again that Walter had send me, I saw that I had missed the word "NO" room for the night)
I'm gonna remember this. Never know when it comes in handy

Shame of the weather mate, sort of made all the difference I guess
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:08 PM   #2622
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Colebatch - great video. And I love the fact that you have Telegraph Road (Dire Straits/Mark Knopfler) as your fav musician ever. Bikes and Knopfler, the two passions of my life.

Thanks for the great rr.

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Old 01-14-2013, 06:30 PM   #2623
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Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post
Americans believe that their country has been democratic since inception yet denied women the right to vote till something like 1925. Does that mean Americans before 1925 were immoral? Or that its not necessary for the voice of women to be heard in a democracy?
Sorry, Americans (that know their history) know and understand that we are NOT a Democracy. We are a Republic bound by a Constitution. Big difference.
Life is a story. Make yours worth telling.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:04 PM   #2624
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100 years ago....

Originally Posted by Prutser View Post

" in search of what looked like a haunted house."

I bet that house was something special 100 years ago... Look at the lattice work and other wood work detail on the second floor
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:21 PM   #2625
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What, no KTM to Bemer tow?

Originally Posted by CordR View Post
Hah! The trusty and reliable KTM saves the day!'s just that I never get to say that.

So Rod.....

Did you have a short memory and attempt to charge extortionist rates for those 3 litres? Or did you have a longer memory and recall the 1K km of towing?

And I thought it was going to be Terry's turn to be towed.
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