Sibirsky Extreme 2012 - The Toughest Ride of Them All

[Pamirski]

Originally Posted by O'B

This might be a year that the Eastern Bam is possible. After reading your reports it seems that it is entirely dependant on the weather, Here in the Pnwet there is talk that spring is going to come early and we are going to have a dry spring and summer. Of course we hope for that every year. All those swamps you were riding through would have to be a lot more dryed out. It seems you have to monitor conditions like the surfers do and be ready to go when the conditions are right. It would be quite a feat to ride the whole road. A light bike would certainly have to be used. I must say this is the best RR I have read. A lot of your photos reminds me of the PNW. With the rain, scenery and roads.

Perhaps a word on weather, this concerns also the clothing-discussion.
The weather in the region between Baikal and Tynda can be really as bad as you can possibly imagine. In 2011 I turned back, also because of week-long bad weather. This year before arriving at the BAM I checked always my favourite spot (Novaja Chara) about the weather. The three weeks before arrival the prognostics never had some sun on the radar. I was so lucky, the rain stopped just, when I arrived at Kuanda and until Tynda no drop would fall anymore. The people at the BAM told me, that it had been rainy for quite some time. Perhaps they exagerated a little bit (I heard of periods of 4 weeks, 6 weeks and 2 months of rain), but perhaps Walter will still show some marks, that prove that this summer has seen floods, that come only every 20 years. In Chara I was told, that the connection between old and new town had been cut.
In such a weather you won't get warm and dry anymore and every river crossing (if possible) is something you want to avoid. And be also aware of the puddles, they can literally eat a motorrider, you don't know how deep they are.
You won't get a guarantee to get through at ideal conditions for the whole stretch by looking at the forecast (when it is good, you first have to get to the BAM). Of course locals have some suggestions when to drive, but every summer can be different.

[EtronX]

Originally Posted by El Saguaro

Walter, EntronX, Have you ever considered using canyoneering shoes plus neoprene socks? like these:

Nope. You need solid boots for protection. If I didn't have my cross boots when I toppled over and did the submariner in the river, there is a great risk I would have injured my foot

Again, wet feet is no problem. In the morning they look OK again. You can, as Walter and Terry does, use SealSkinz waterproof socks. Your boots are wet, but feet stay dry. Until the next deep river of course

[bob66]

After ~3 weeks I finally got to an end with reading this RR. I'm interested in details about Altai and Tuva track (this summer I want to go there). I will PM you Walter to ask a few questions.

Great RR , waiting to see what's next.

Bob

[ROD CURRIE]

Originally Posted by EtronX

Nope. You need solid boots for protection. If I didn't have my cross boots when I toppled over and did the submariner in the river, there is a great risk I would have injured my foot

Again, wet feet is no problem. In the morning they look OK again. You can, as Walter and Terry does, use SealSkinz waterproof socks. Your boots are wet, but feet stay dry. Until the next deep river of course

And as we keep saying, everything has to be carried-so you have 2 sets of footwear...your moto-boots, and one other that has to fulfill every other use....usually-but not always-sandals. If one took everything...or even half the things one might conceivably need...hammer, saw, axe, spares-(a vice!) clothing variants, more detailed maps, you'd need a support vehicle following (and I'm not saying that's wrong-it's just not what this group want)or have a bike so heavy...

Said it all before.

[achesley]

Each morning, I get up, fire up the computer and check this report out while coffee is brewing. I stand amazed. Now, I just have to read about the woman rider. There are just some amazing people in this world that I never heard of till ADV Rider.

[NoLurkerAnymore]

Originally Posted by achesley

There are just some amazing people in this world that I never heard of till ADV Rider.

So true. This is absolutely amazing!!!

[Colebatch]

Right back to the story ...

By now we had just unloaded from the truck that had given us a ride across the Kuanda river. It was about 7:30 pm.

We were not going to get to a hotel tonight ... next one would be at Chara, about 160 km away.

I told the guys I knew where there was a rail station in the middle of nowhere where we might be able to put sleeping bags indoors away from the mosquitoes. Balbukhta, about 35 km away on the road. We should be there in an hour, have enough time to get sorted for the evening.

We reached Balbukhta and I stuck my head in the station (which was in a building the size of school sports hall literally in the middle of nowhere) and asked is we could stay the night. The lady was kind enough to offer us tea and biscuits but said that they had to lock the station up empty in about 15 minutes ... a local train was coming to collect them and take them back to Kuanda where the staff live. It seemed we would need to camp in the station forecourt.

I have no pics of the station or our camping are, but I am hoping the Norwegian guys have some pics or video stills or something.

EtronX had his tent up in 5 minutes and went to bed ... he sleeps and wakes early.

Terry went to investigate the sound of running water, taking his wash kit with him. When he hadnt returned in 10 minutes I went to check on him and found a great camping and cooking area by a beach besides a beautiful mountain river. With almost no bugs or mosquitoes (unlike 100 yards away up at the station). Terry had been washing himself in the chilly river.

I went back to get Erik and Steve and told them to bring cooking equipment food etc ... and we had a great night out by the river there.

Someone took a few pics of the scene ... I think it was Steve. Steve, you got anything?

[Dahveed]

I think the prevailing wisdom from US military forces operating in Jungle/rain forest environments was to NOT wear socks in their boots. Socks just keep your feet from ever drying out in your boots and that leads to fungus problems.

Anyway, back to the epic story!

[Saso]

Originally Posted by Colebatch

Someone took a few pics of the scene ... I think it was Steve. Steve, you got anything?

[dukedinner]

Its ironic ...not only is the hardest core ADVrider on the planet not one of us on this forum, nor is it a strapping tall guy, its a woman - a small lightweight russian woman who happens to have very tomboy-ish looks

Ha!..so while us guys are so busy trying to one up each other, the girls are just getting it done! I think I can feel that Beamster smile lurking in the background....

[Frey Bentos]

A small question for the Colemiester. What about the BMW Serano being sweetable for such manly exploits?

[O'B]

Originally Posted by bob66

After ~3 weeks I finally got to an end with reading this RR. I'm interested in details about Altai and Tuva track (this summer I want to go there). I will PM you Walter to ask a few questions.

Great RR , waiting to see what's next.

Bob

Absolutley that area really stuck in my mind also. Walter or anybody with all these rivers and areas you have traveled in Siberia what kind of fish are in the rivers? Do they contain some kind of trout? I know there are salmon and such on the pacific coast but what about inland? These rivers and areas you are crossing have probably never seen a hook.

[Pamirski]

Originally Posted by O'B

Absolutley that area really stuck in my mind also. Walter or anybody with all these rivers and areas you have traveled in Siberia what kind of fish are in the rivers? Do they contain some kind of trout? I know there are salmon and such on the pacific coast but what about inland? These rivers and areas you are crossing have probably never seen a hook.

Definetly not, Russians like hunting and fishing, so you even find them in remote areas. When we were on the plateau Ukok, which is said to be a quite remote area of the Altai, we were astonished to meet some guys fishing in the area. It seems to be renowned for that activity. Leprindo (between Kuanda and Chara) is also an area the locals like to go for the weekend. But I don't know what kind of fish they are after, I was given a Lenok, when I camped one night on the board of river Lena (between Kachug and Shigalowo). Truck drivers also have their spots, where they get their dinner.

[dmcd]

Great stuff as usual, I've been reading your reports for a couple of years now Walter, thats why I smile, and admire your patience, when replying to posts where people suggest you took the wrong bike/shoes/helmet/gloves/luggage/tent/oil/tyres/socks/underpants etc. I'd be fairly happy to go with your setup.

[ciedema]

Originally Posted by O'B

Absolutley that area really stuck in my mind also. Walter or anybody with all these rivers and areas you have traveled in Siberia what kind of fish are in the rivers? Do they contain some kind of trout? I know there are salmon and such on the pacific coast but what about inland? These rivers and areas you are crossing have probably never seen a hook.

If ever find yourself on the road between Irkust and UU a must is the smoked fish from lake Baikal - fantastic and sold all along the roadside. Also the wild strawberries, better than anything you have ever tried.