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Old 11-04-2012, 08:40 AM   #361
Mukaltin
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Not much fresh extreme of Siberia
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:41 AM   #362
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Day 8 - Short ride to Sumy

We rode to Sumy, a short easy days ride, and as Terry mentioned above, apart from him having a run in with cops in the tiniest farm village, we did find some nice well wooded trails:



We arrived in Sumy, met our contact Nikolai (the man to whom the shock was being sent to) and Nikolai took us to a nice hotel in the centre of the city of Sumy where we could relax in comfort for about 20 EUR a night, lock the bikes up round the back and wait for Terry's shock. Sumy was a proper big town, complete with a McDonalds and several cool lounge bars within a few minutes walk from our hotel. We set up shop in one of the lounge bars for the evening and watched the fine fine female Sumy scenery roll by.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:45 AM   #363
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Ukraine Tracks

Our trackmap across the Ukraine looks like this:

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Old 11-04-2012, 09:19 AM   #364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kristof Granit View Post
Personally I drove more than 6500km here in Russia, including Moscow, on my bikes without plates numbers...



You are also not a known member of the mafia.
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:54 AM   #365
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for me - ukrainian part is really funny to read so far
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:28 PM   #366
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Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post
Viktor bought him a ratchet while we were at the tool shop. Terry didnt want it - weight he didnt need to carry. But Viktor insisted. And by now we were well aware that you dont say no to Viktor.
Good stuff!
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:45 PM   #367
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Where's the pictures of the "Sumy scenery?"

Great RR!
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:03 PM   #368
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I enjoy reading the tour description. I am also planned a Ukrainian tour 2012. I was attracted by cheap gasoline, but because of the corrupt police officers, I went in different direction. On the internet forums are a number of complaints about the Ukrainian police. Allegedly they ransom foreigners on the roads, because of the very low salaries. I hope you had not met something this. Of course not, because you do not use the roads. You make me desire for Ukraine.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:14 PM   #369
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Ukraine Women

I have been to Kiev, and the women were natural beauties...some stunningly so.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:56 PM   #370
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Insanely epic ride. Keep it coming.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:05 PM   #371
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Great pics,
I don't want to divert attention but have to say, re Police in rural areas if you did nothing wrong you have couple choices pass out some $$ and your on your way, refuse to pay they will eventually get bored and let you go, but could take 30 mins, or just don't stop
I done all three, if they have Lada or similar they not even going to bother trying to chase, they are only out for themselves. In the big cities I would just pay them off.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:22 PM   #372
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So in! Thank you Colebatch.
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:52 AM   #373
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The Sumy Split - Terry and I part ways ... temporarily

We chased up the shock, via Nikolai, our man in Sumy, and Alex, our man in Kiev and received bad news.

Ukrainian customs was holding up the shock and insisting on a import duty payment. We argued that it was a warranty item (countries around the world usually let replacement warranty items in without duty, if the sale price is zero, since you have already paid duty on the original item). But Ukraininan customs dont recognise warranty imports. We tried to argue that the shock, like the bike, is a temporary import, and only transiting Ukraine ... that it will be out of the country 24 hours after we get it ... and therefore exempt from duty, but again, they werent buying it.

Terry was going to have to pay 200 EUR import duty on the shock and it would take 3-4 days to process and get sent out to Sumy.

We were faced with a dilemma. If we waited for the shock together, we would be delayed and be running well behind schedule. We would need to skip the next few days of offroad, between Sumy and Volgograd and go via asphalt roads. I thought of going alone on the trails, but considered it risky alone ... and I enjoyed riding with Terry. I also had a quick return flight to Moscow booked from Volgograd to visit friends, so I had to get to Volgograd on schedule.

In the end, I stayed an extra day with Terry in Sumy, before taking off early one morning for the day and a half ride on asphalt to Volgograd. The only highlight was crossing the border into Russia - the rest was boring as hell.

I missed the 3-4 days of offroad trails I had planned. Two of the days of offroad I had ridden before, in 2010 (with Pate - see below), so I was OK with missing stuff I had done before, but the other two days included trails across the battlefields of Kursk, scene of the largest armoured battle in history, where 3000 German tanks faced over 5000 Soviet tanks ... and in particular I had routed the trails through the epicentre of the action, the village of Prokhorovka ... where there are numerous monuments to the epic battle, including this one (courtesy Wikipedia):



Missing Prokhorovka was a major disappointment for me. Instead of cool trails and rarely seen monuments, I had to contend with trucks and gas stations and roadside cafes.

I had told Terry to relax and enjoy himself in Sumy and when he gets the shock, cruise on into Volgograd where I would meet him at a motorcycle shop I had given him the waypoints for, in a weeks time.

As for the sights and scenery of Sumy, I can do nothing more than hand it over to Terry (tee bee).

In Moscow, I had strategic motorcycling discussions (codename for beers) with Grom (from the Morocco ride last year)


And more strategic discussions with Grom, TonyP (who rode the BAM road with Terry and myself back in 2009), and Pate, (with whom I have have ridden several off road Russian rides with, and who has a great ride report on here about Sakhalin)
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Colebatch screwed with this post 11-05-2012 at 01:05 AM
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:13 AM   #374
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I woke up on the 27th may to find myself alone, for the first time on this trip.

I,m afraid my language skills here in the ukraine aren,t the best and as for reading a menu.. forget it....
I found a real pretty girl selling shashlik , i don,t quite know how ,but i managed to order 800g from her...,i wondered why she was laughing, thats enough to feed 4 people

I had at least 4 days wait here but the hotel was very friendly.... well the receptionist was anyway........! and she spoke very good english..........

The next day i heard from Nikoli about my shock, the customs now wanted $450 in cash, hmm ,i wonder where that was going ?.The good news ?, another 3days wait....

That i really didn,t mind, the girls around here are really gorgeous and after spending the last few weeks with Walter,i was quite happy chilling out here, watching long legs and short skirts go by.......

My ukraine bike insurance was due to run out on the 31st, it was now the 31st., i was getting a bit concerned, which was probably unnecessary,but luck was on my side....a txt from Nikoli., He had my shock and i could pick it up any time.

A bottle of the finest brandy and i was on my way to the border and Volgograd.

The border crossing was really easy and friendly,Walter had forewarned the russians that i was on my way ,so they were expecting me,thanks mate.
A bit sad to leave Sumy ?, yes of course, but now i was in Russia , riding through the night in my favourite country ,i was feeling on top of the world.
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:17 AM   #375
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ride report

Great report as usual !!! Keep it coming !!!
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