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Old 03-22-2006, 01:40 AM   #16
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Joined: May 2005
Location: Capitalist
Oddometer: 15,683
The DR is evil and must be punished.
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:33 PM   #17
Joined: Jul 2004
Oddometer: 4
Love My 1990 DR!

My 1990 DR650 brings about 43 HP on the rear wheel dyno (that is about stock HP; compare the "new ones"!), and I had many dual sports, but the '90 is still my favorite an out lived them all im my stable as I own it now for over 14 years.


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Old 07-02-2008, 08:40 AM   #18
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Serbia
Oddometer: 478
Mine is DR650RS '90, has 53000km on the odo. I ain't gona change it, at least not soon. Anybody has some net-pages for tuneup??
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Old 07-09-2008, 04:11 PM   #19
I'll fix that
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: pines & sand, NC
Oddometer: 1,291
Buy my DR350 ...and... Got any Pink gear for sale?
Originally Posted by focallength View Post
If you dont remember, sky, ground,sky,ground,sky, ground, treeeeeee! You passed out.
Originally Posted by SkidMarx View Post
Herding drunk cats drunk. That takes it up a notch.
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Give me riding.
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Old 11-11-2008, 12:42 AM   #20
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Kuala Lumpur Malaysia
Oddometer: 14
Originally Posted by johnfquinn
i have a dr 650r.i love it,murder to kick start.
Got same problem like my bike...
but i already beat a bmw gs1200 in offroad...
bye-bye to bmw
my restore link....
"All My Life I've Wanted To Do Something Big"
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Old 09-19-2009, 08:46 AM   #21
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Missouri
Oddometer: 23
is this a good price for a 1990 dr650s

Hello everyone I am new to this site so please any help with this decision would be great. I am looking at a 1990 dr650s with 25,000 miles that he wants $1350 for just wondering if that is a good price this would be my first dual purpose motorcycle it is in really nice condition just wondering if that is a good price for that bike with that many miles any info would be very helpfull.
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Old 11-09-2009, 09:48 AM   #22
Joined: Nov 2009
Oddometer: 1
Question 1990 Dr650 Case

Hey guys,
I am new to the site, and found this thread. I bought a 1990 dr650s dirt cheap. The crank bearings spin inside the case, so I guess it needs new cases. I was wondering if one of the newer bottom ends would fit 91-92 maybee. I have a couple spoted, but don't want to waste my money. I would even buy a whole motor if the price was right and do a complete swap if it was pretty much bolt up. The current motor has 22,000 miles on it but starts right up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-30-2010, 10:09 AM   #23
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Rehoboth MA
Oddometer: 350

Photobucket is stinking on me, so it's small pics for now.
1990 DR650S page
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Old 08-28-2011, 10:06 PM   #24
Joined: Aug 2011
Oddometer: 2
New...1990 me

Just bought one off a local craigslist seller.
9000KM on it for $1900 - didn't think to hard - bought it on sight.

OK - now what...

the turn signals don't work
it is hard to start but does
has big knobbies

so gotta spend more $ I don't have :-)

At 6'6" 260lbs - any advice from the knowledgeable folks out priorities
1) fix turn signals
2) slicker tires
3) ....what next?
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:26 AM   #25
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 14
1990 dr650s

Your questions were left hanging. How did you make out? Got one, runs well and no thanks to my local motorcycle shop.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:41 PM   #26
Joined: Mar 2012
Oddometer: 1
Wicked 1990 dr650s

I have a 1990 DR650S, I bought it off ebay for $1650, it had a few problems, but for under a hundred bucks in parts from BikeBandit, all is well.

A few things to answer on the previous posts:
1. Starting, there is a very specific starting procedure. If cold, Fuel to Prime, Hold the decompression lever and kick through 6 times, relase lever, find TDC, pull lever, let go of lever, lever will stay down. Kick through, lever will pop up. Find TDC if it did not start and repeat. Mine usually starts on the second kick when cold. Turn fuel to on. When the engine is hot, find TDC, pull decompression Lever, kick through, mine always starts on the first kick when Hot. Easy Peasy, right? lol. One thing to remember for easier starts, keep your idle below 1400 RPM, it is a vacuum system and will not start if the idle is higher than 1400 RPM. The unfortune part about below 1400 RPM is that when trail riding, 1400 RPM barely keeps the mortor running, in turn it loves to stall at the most in opportune times, on the trail and the street. Lowing gearing is the key! There is never a need to do 110 MPH on this beast, which mine would do.

2. Brake Master cyclinder, if your brake keeps sticking, make sure the return hole is clear. I ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit, rebuilt the cylinder, thought I fixed it, discovered at about 30 MPH that I did not. Got it stopped ok, had to bleed the front caliper, ride for a little while till I felt it locking up again, stop, bleed, repeat till home. The return hole is about the size of a #76 drill bit, or a pin from your wife sewing kit. The pin is a bit big, but will work. Problem fixed.

3. No matter what anyone tells you, it is not a hard core trail bike, it is built like a tank, yes, but that is precisely why it is not a hard core trail bike. It is heavy, and if you do not go to an after market shock, you pogo up and down the trails all day, and lugging all that weight around all day will wear you out. Trust me, I have been there.

4. Watch the oil cooler, you can and will bend it on the trials, they are expensive to replace, and almost impossible to find used. I bent mine but did not break it, so bent it back and it still work, mostly..

I'm sure other guys have had some great experiences too, I love the bike, just know it's limitations and ride accordingly, just like every other bike you may have or have had.
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Old 07-18-2012, 02:44 AM   #27
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Oddometer: 446
I've got a '90 Didn't realize how unique it was til a friend bought a '93

They seem to be significantly different bikes. I really enjoy riding mine, but have never taken it seriously off road. It's just too heavy & I'm not a good enough rider to avoid total exhaustion due to the weight. I love it for riding on the road tho and love the torque. I've got a 40mm pumper carb on mine & it really wakes the bike up throttle-response-wise.

Mine's always been pretty easy to start. Easier now w/ the pumper, but the process is the same.

Turn ignition and button to ON
Turn fuel to ON if it's not.
Set the choke -- if the engine is cold. Otherwise leave it alone.
Pull in decompression lever. It should stay in.
If the lever doesn't stay in, slowly move the kick start til the decomp lever will stay in and allow the kick start to go back to the top.
Slowly move kickstart downward til the decompression lever clicks back out.
Allow the kickstart to remove to the upper position.
Kick the bike over.

My bike has started on the 2nd kick approx 85% of the time using the above method.
10% of the time it's taken 3-4 kicks-- usually if the bike's sat for a few weeks/months.
The last 5% it's taken more on a very cold day, or when the bike sat all winter & needed fresh gas or the battery was totally flat. It doesn't seem to like starting when the battery's weak... even tho it's a kicker.
Mine always starte
It followed me home.
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:14 AM   #28
Neville1 to TT boys
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Rehoboth MA
Oddometer: 350
Pumper carb from where, and how much fiddling with it did you need to get it to run right?

Originally Posted by scottro View Post
I've got a 40mm pumper carb on mine & it really wakes the bike up throttle-response-wise.
1990 DR650S page
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Old 07-18-2012, 08:12 PM   #29
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Oddometer: 446
Originally Posted by SBG View Post
Pumper carb from where, and how much fiddling with it did you need to get it to run right?

I ordered one from these guys $263 shipped. The stock throttle cable fit and worked with some minor fiddling and re-routing. I used big O-rings from a Harbor Freight O-ring kit to shim the carb and adapt it to the intake boot.

It took very little fiddling overall. My bike ran w/ the jetting that comes w/ the carb, but I think I ended-up leaning to 155 or 150 main jet, because it was too rich up top. This is the third bike I've switched over to a pumper carb. I've found that out of the box they usually bog when you open the throttle fast -- until you set the pump so it doesn't squirt gas until somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 throttle. Delay the squirt a little and the bike runs like a champ. if the squirt comes too soon, it'll bog.

It makes the bike a lot more fun. Off-idle throttle response is RIGHT NOW. And overall throttle response is greatly improved throughout the rev range.
It followed me home.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:04 PM   #30
DR 1990
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Mountain View, CA
Oddometer: 26
I do! Since 1990! Still looking good don't you think? (21K miles)

luigi003 screwed with this post 04-25-2013 at 06:32 PM Reason: Re-sized & add another picture
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