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Old 10-26-2012, 08:46 PM   #31
Pistolero
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My 08 has the shorter ones in the microfiche... Headed to my KTM dealer tomorrow to see if the part number supplied for the longer one pulls anything up.. I pulled the plug out of my bike and it's the shorter one I'm pretty sure.
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:00 AM   #32
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Just looked up 60036008100 on dealer net. It is no longer available, there is no application for it. The number 60036008000 is the part for all 950/990's from 2002 to 2012, no upgrades. So, I don't know where that part came from. Doesn't mean it won't be the up graded part tomorrow.
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:39 PM   #33
Gustavo.Ramos
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Lets not mix things up!

The longer bolt, does not affect oil pressure, it is just a way to reduce the clickety-clackity-clack we sometimes hear our timing chain. It puts the tensioner under higher pressure against the timing chain rail

dunno when it was introduced, but at least in my 950 it made one heck of a difference in my quest to silence down that can of nails that the 950 engine was sounding.

Part 60036008100 is available, at least in Europe as you can see from the link below.

http://www.ktm-versand.de/product_in...E-M16X1-5.html

Odly enough price has increased by 70% since last time i bought it a few months ago. It was 15ish euro, now it's 26ish...

For the oil pressure issue, i replaced the piston+spring on the oil pressure valve due to excessive scoring in the piston. Some early bikes had the piston replaced under warranty too.

There's also a complete housing of the oil pressure valve PN 60038010133, that is sealed and suposedly better design to avoid early wear.

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Old 10-27-2012, 12:57 PM   #34
OneDay
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I'm following this tread with interest as mine has similar symptoms. It only happens after then engine is hot and I start the bike after having stopped for less than 5-10 minutes. At idle it's noisy and the oil light flickers but stops as soon as I rev it a bit and get going. If the bike is cold or has been sitting for more than 10 minutes, I don't see the flicker (mine is an 2004 btw).

I always had an hunch it's the oil pump that's the issue. In the previous post, I see the part number 60038010133 (which is a replacement for 60038010000). It's not too expensive so I'm willing to give it a try. My question, do I need to also buy the spring and piston or does it come with it?

THanks,
Mike
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:17 PM   #35
Gustavo.Ramos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneDay View Post
I always had an hunch it's the oil pump that's the issue. In the previous post, I see the part number 60038010133 (which is a replacement for 60038010000). It's not too expensive so I'm willing to give it a try. My question, do I need to also buy the spring and piston or does it come with it?

THanks,
Mike
No, it is a complete set with piston and spring. Actually this part it's sealed and you can't even take piston out to verify scoring, neither the spring to check its length.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:06 PM   #36
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Just to clarify, you can take the piston and spring out, but it requires removing the whole assembly, not just a c-clip like the older version.

As I said, that upgraded part fixed the flickering oil light on my 04, and was probably the biggest contributor to my lack of timing chain noise now. Still rattles just a little when I start it until the CCTs pump up, but that now happens WAY faster than it did before.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:42 PM   #37
OneDay
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That's good info. Personally, I'm going to give this new part a try. I hope for the OP that he can fix the issue on his.

Cheers
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:02 AM   #38
Swatch
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I had the same problem on my 2004.
I replaced:
1st: tensioners (helped, but not perfect) at 70k km.

2st: Oil bypass valve assembly + Timing chains + Timing chains guides + Amsoil 20W50 oil at 80k km.
Result: noise disappeared.

Now the bike have 123k km, still quiet.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bloc View Post
For now my impression is that the issue is tied to oil temp.
I also think that the oil temp is a problem. No oil cooler on those bikes...
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:41 PM   #39
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noise is gone

Since I added oil I have not heard that noise again and the light never came on. I was surprised because I only added half a litre.

Worth mentioning that I have replaced both cam chain tensioners about 5 months ago. That reduced the cam chain noise.

I PMed Gustavo asking what heck is this oil pressure value and he generously replied with some useful info that I thought I share here for the records:

"The pressure valve i'm reffering to is located below/behind clutch drum and regulates oil pressure until 3,5 bar, after that the valve opens and the excessive pressure is released. Otherwise you'd have very high oil pressure and that can damage gaskets.

The part i replaced is the piston, part 42 of the link below, it was badly scored. There's a complete pressure valve assembly available PN 60038010133 (assembly + piston plus spring, washer and circlip), instead of replacing just the piston, or the spring (the spring gets weak too!) These parts are quite cheap, but they can be hard to get to if you're not using the 950 service manual


http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model...ystem#p_752817
"
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:35 AM   #40
bloc
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This thread has about as much info and pics as you could hope to find on the subject. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714221

The only thing I'd add is to dress the groove on the end of the oil pump shaft with a small file before removing the housing. Mine had a very slight ridge, making the housing difficult to get off the shaft.

This was only made more tricky by the inner "star" part of the pump sticking to the housing as I pulled it off.. allowing its locating dowel to slide out of its slot in the back of the star. This meant that I couldn't slide the housing back in to dress the ridge.

Ended up having to put quite a bit of pulling force on the housing to get it over the slight ridge. As far as I can tell this isn't an issue, as the inner dowel (for the suction pump "star") keeps the shaft from pulling out.. but it is something that is preventable.

Edit: one more thing.. I had good oring picks like in that writeup, but found a strong parts-retrieval-magnet far more useful for removing the needle bearing cage inside the clutch basket.
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:50 PM   #41
Gustavo.Ramos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloc View Post
This thread has about as much info and pics as you could hope to find on the subject. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714221
Had lost the link to that great thread. Straight to favourites!

tkz
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