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Old 10-23-2012, 09:16 AM   #16
MortimerSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
...
The only place which has enough space for all that is the storage compartment and a) I use it for tools....
And, that area is not cool. Here is a pic of a multimeter that I had been carrying in the bottom of the tool bin.

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Old 10-23-2012, 10:30 AM   #17
AdvGa
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Originally Posted by Uller View Post
...
1. This style of R/R works better and runs cooler. Heat isn't as much of an issue for it.
...
The OEM Voltage Regulator/Shunt type gets to about 200-350 degrees F (from what I've read). Will burn you if you touch it.

Whereas my Mosfet Shindengen VR is just Warm (Appx 100 Degrees F) to the touch but does not get HOT.
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:41 PM   #18
tahoeacr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
The OEM Voltage Regulator/Shunt type gets to about 200-350 degrees F (from what I've read). Will burn you if you touch it.

Whereas my Mosfet Shindengen VR is just Warm (Appx 100 Degrees F) to the touch but does not get HOT.
It stays that cool? I'm all over it. Good write up. My stocker runs 165 located here. The other day it went to 17 volts for a minute.

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Old 10-23-2012, 04:05 PM   #19
AdvGa
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It stays that cool? I'm all over it. Good write up. ...
Yep, it is that much of a difference
...and remember your past post about your OEM VR reaching the 245 degree level range.
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Old 10-24-2012, 08:23 PM   #20
Uller OP
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Is your crank case breather hose just bent back temporarily while you do work on the bike, or do you have something else going on back there?

Nice work.. will definitely be looking at doing this in the future.
Yes and no. It doesn't permanently look like that but, I do have it routed to just above my chain with a K&N Breather Element attached to it after the one-way valve.
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Old 04-24-2014, 03:43 AM   #21
grom
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Question

Do I understand right that load current goes from R/R through thin starter relay connector in your setup?
OEM circuit load current goes around starter relay when engine is running, but still it corrodes.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:38 AM   #22
Bowber
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No, he's taken the R/R output direct to the battery via a fuse.
He cut out the connection from the R/R to the starter relay and then tidied up the original connection from the wiring harness to the starter relay.

The OEM R/R goes via the starter relay fuse to the battery though, It connects into the horrible bunch of soldered wires and then 2 wires come out of that bunch and go into the starter relay connector and then through the fuse to the battery connection.
The only reason I can see there is 2 wires is to share the electrical load, they both are connected at each end (on the OEM).

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Old 04-24-2014, 05:56 AM   #23
grom
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So OEM wiring looks like this



I think, the best option would be like this, ignoring original main fuse




Some people do like this. And it looks even worse then original to me because load current goes from R/R through thin starter relay connector



Another option
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:00 AM   #24
gefr
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I think simpler is better

I don't see the need for many fuses in a row.
Cheers.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:55 PM   #25
Bowber
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Yes OEM is like A.
He changed it to C

B is just the same as A but bypasses the starter relay.

With C the R/R output is direct to the battery and bypasses the starter relay connections, this is how I'd do it as everything is direct and you can have quite heavy wires, it also separates the charge circuit from the rest and make diagnosing problems easier.

The crap cluster of soldered wires has 8 wires (from memory), 2 from the R/R, 2 from the starter relay and 4 up to the fuse block and ignition switch that feed various items like lights, ecu etc.
I've no problem with the the 4 wires feeding the loom but the rest is crap, and the soldered block is just utterly rubbish! It's unsealed and to get at the starter relay fuse you have to take off the relay which stresses the soldered wires which then break because they're corroded.

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Old 04-28-2014, 11:54 PM   #26
grom
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Starter relay connector is Furukawa RFW 090 14Аmps max
https://www.furukawa.co.jp/tukuru/pd...pcon_01rfw.pdf
Even 2 wires in parallel are not quite enough for constant power supply of a heavy adv bike. And their capacity (2x14A) even smaller then 30 A main fuse.
So you got rid of one problem and made another.
I do rewiring just because of that corroded thin starter relay connector.
So I go to option B with new 4mm2 (11AWG) wires.
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:45 AM   #27
gen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grom View Post
Starter relay connector is Furukawa RFW 090 14Аmps max
Sold at EasternBeaver should anyone want some:

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__...d/RFW/rfw.html
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Old 10-31-2014, 11:01 AM   #28
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Just did this upgrade using the "B" option, moved the battery and starter relay under the seat as well, were they should be IMO.

great write up, THanks!
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