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Old 10-24-2012, 11:26 AM   #31
Zoef zoef
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Sir,

The measured 9V during cranking is somewhat on the low side.
On your problem, one of the classic symptoms associated with HES failure is the rpm on your dash going haywire, ie bouncing up and down. HES failure is usually the wires shorting, this can result in having more switching than one per revolution.
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:35 PM   #32
ElMartillo OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoef zoef View Post
Sir,

The measured 9V during cranking is somewhat on the low side.
On your problem, one of the classic symptoms associated with HES failure is the rpm on your dash going haywire, ie bouncing up and down. HES failure is usually the wires shorting, this can result in having more switching than one per revolution.
Thank you for addressing this. I don't recall the tachometer doing anything strange during the original failure. I do still believe the HES wiring could be the cause of the problem.

I do believe the battery drain issue is coincidental, unless it can be attributed to a poor connection or mis-connection in the ignition switch AND the original symptom of the injectors misfiring can also be attributed to the same.

If the battery stops draining quickly and the symptoms of the original event do not recur after every effort to duplicate the symptoms I will have to assume my ignition switch was at fault.

I will continue to monitor the battery, and take short rides on the bike trying to duplicate the symptoms.

So far, since my ignition switch discovery, I have repeatedly and successfully started and ridden the bike with no return of the problem. The only thing I haven't done is wash it again, which I will do when I return in 1 month in an attempt to duplicate all circumstances surrounding the original event.

Thanks again to all for the help!
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:43 PM   #33
Jim Moore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoef zoef View Post
Sir,

The measured 9V during cranking is somewhat on the low side.
I agree, that's low. I'm surprised you didn't get an ABS fail on start-up.
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:50 PM   #34
vintagerider
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http://www.odysseybatteries.com/files/techbook.pdf

Most battery mfg's publish data and OCV tables for their batteries like the one above. You didn't mention your OCV or temperature so can not say your SOC. Cranking 9.0 vdc indicates starter, wiring or battery not optimum.

It seems like your initial issue of pump re-priming in rapid succession has resolved since your r-r the ignition switch. If it re-occurs then post your observations and any diagnostic steps you've taken. If this were my mc then I would not be replacing HES at this time.
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:12 PM   #35
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When I get back I'll check all connections, and the charge output from the alternator. I will update at that time.

Thanks again to all for the help!

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Old 11-30-2012, 03:44 PM   #36
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Back in the Saddle

OK, got back in town two days ago.

When I got home I took the bike off the charger. Started it up, let it warm up. No signs of the original problem. Checked voltage after: 12.99 volts.

Next morning, no battery charger for at least 8 hours: 12.96 volts. Took her out for a ride later in the day. No signs of the original symptoms. No battery charger overnight.

Raining today so I thought it would be a good test to see if water has anything to do with the original symptoms. Checked battery voltage before ride: 12.93 volts. When cranking, voltage reads approximately 9+/- volts. Near 14 while bike was warming up. Ran fine. Stopped and started 3 times within 1.5 hours no problem, except the ABS wouldn't engage after the 2nd startup (alternately blinking lights).

Battery voltage after ride: approximately 13.0.

At this point I need to assume my injector-misfiring symptom was related to the ignition switch issue (I'd like to hear Beezer's opinion on this). I may still have a weak battery; although it is fairly new the cranking amps reading is low.

Thoughts?

:)
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