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Old 10-07-2013, 08:49 PM   #2416
kurtzinpa
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Olustee, FL till May, Then Carbondale IL for month
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Wicked

Quote:
Originally Posted by JM View Post
Toothbrush? What toothbrush? That was one of the unnecessary items I removed from my gear to save weight. Hell, I'm only going to be on the road for a month.
leave dentures home. Kill two birds with one stone.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:50 PM   #2417
Hikertrash
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Changed oil, transmission and FD fluids, changed out spark plugs and gave it a half ass wash.
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:29 AM   #2418
RichBMW
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Removed the luggage rack



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Old 10-08-2013, 02:01 AM   #2419
ACD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenslair View Post
Made up a skid plate out of some scrap aluminum I had.

That plate looks very professional!! I wish my home made improvements looked half as good as yours :)


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Old 10-09-2013, 09:36 AM   #2420
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Originally Posted by madpuma13 View Post
I have been looking for amber running lights like this everywhere! Where you find em?!
Rigid LED D2 duallies with amber covers ...
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:46 AM   #2421
SylvainB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenslair View Post
Made up a skid plate out of some scrap aluminum I had.

Nice job, I'm planning to do the same, can you show the other side of the skid plate so the attachements are visible? What did you use to attach the plate? Did you use rubber inserts? Thanks
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Present: K16GT 2012, F800S 2008 (wife's),R1100GS 1997, R100/7 1978, wrf 426 2002
Past: K12GT 2008, ST1300 2003, Sach 250wr 1978, Husky 390wr, Honda xr500r late 70's, Husky 360wr, PE 250 1976... I know I'm old
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:13 AM   #2422
Ravenslair
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Originally Posted by ACD View Post
That plate looks very professional!! I wish my home made improvements looked half as good as yours :)

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Thanks, I appreciate that. Took a few metal jigsaw blades. Should have just used a carbide blade on my Skilsaw.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SylvainB View Post
Nice job, I'm planning to do the same, can you show the other side of the skid plate so the attachements are visible? What did you use to attach the plate? Did you use rubber inserts? Thanks
Thanks.

I will take a picture when I get home tonight. I used 1" Hillman Group steel clamps (from Lowes in their hardware section, likely the same for any other big box hardware store). The lower set of holes were drilled incorrectly. Measure twice, cut/drill once. I broke that rule this time.
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Old 10-10-2013, 05:16 AM   #2423
Ron from BC
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Originally Posted by YetiGS View Post
As part of my re-build over the last two weeks, I installed new throttle cables on my GSA. My bike's got 110,000 miles on it and I' not sure if they have ever been replaced before. Tim?? Anyways, they did not feel bad or like they were dragging, but I could feel a difference between my throttle and my friend's bike that only has 30k miles. So, replace them I did . . .


OH. MY. GOD.


I am not exaggerating when I say it feels like a whole new bike. Not one bit. I have an IICE Air and the XIED which both made improvements to the bike. But nothing like this.

The throttle is now soooo much lighter. The bike actually revs easily now! Rev matching on downshifts is now a simple matter. Accelerating, it feels like somebody took 20% off the fly wheel. I've popped three little wheelies shifting into second gear just because I'm not yet used to how much faster the bike revs up. Dare I say it, it feels like the engine on my 1200GS did!

Apparently, my throttle cables were a lot worse than I thought. It's sad to think that my throttle cables were actually making it harder for the bike to rev up.

The moral of the story is, if your bike has over 50,000 miles, you might want to seriously consider replacing your throttle cables. The DIY in the Hall of Wisdom makes it a simple job. It took me about 2 1/2 hours over two sessions (an hour to remove the old, an hour and a half to install the new). Oh, and it was a TON easier to synch the TB's when I was done too.
Now you really have me excited. I picked up all the cables for the change earlier in the summer with the plan to do it in November. During my research on doing the job there wasn't one person who didn't say it made an incredible difference and your comment only adds more anticipation to do the job.

My GSA also has 110K miles and there aren't any visible signs like fraying of the cable as it goes into the ferrules. The only thing I find is that when I give the bike a quick snap of throttle with the clutch pulled in, the hand grip seems to turn about an inch or so before I get the burst of juice.

How long did the job take? Did you buy a new Bowden Box too or just clean the old one.



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Old 10-10-2013, 08:02 AM   #2424
YetiGS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron from BC View Post
Now you really have me excited. I picked up all the cables for the change earlier in the summer with the plan to do it in November. During my research on doing the job there wasn't one person who didn't say it made an incredible difference and your comment only adds more anticipation to do the job.

My GSA also has 110K miles and there aren't any visible signs like fraying of the cable as it goes into the ferrules. The only thing I find is that when I give the bike a quick snap of throttle with the clutch pulled in, the hand grip seems to turn about an inch or so before I get the burst of juice.

How long did the job take? Did you buy a new Bowden Box too or just clean the old one.



Ron
I bought new everything, including the Bowden box. It took me about 1 or 1 1/2 hours to remove everything and about an hour to put the new stuff in. I work pretty quickly though. The hardest part (for me) was disconnecting and connecting the throttle cables at the throttle bodies. Once I figured that it out, it was easy. A week later and I'm still amazed at the difference.

What year is your bike? If it's a 2004 or earlier, you need to get a new throttle cable guide for the grip. MikeO describes it at the end of his "How To" in the Hall of Wisdom.
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:21 PM   #2425
Hikertrash
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Installed a rear Full Bore M40. Goes much smoother when you stop giving a shit about scratching your rims 😄




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Old 10-10-2013, 01:14 PM   #2426
Ravenslair
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Originally Posted by Hikertrash View Post
Installed a rear Full Bore M40. Goes much smoother when you stop giving a shit about scratching your rims ��




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I use a piece of plastic from a laundry detergent bottle. Nice and thick and usually stays in place. I have that same tire on my 1150GSA and am passing the 8500 mile mark. I probably have another 500-1000 miles left before the centerline wears flat.
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:26 PM   #2427
VEGASGSA
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Location: The Northwet..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hikertrash View Post
Installed a rear Full Bore M40. Goes much smoother when you stop giving a shit about scratching your rims 😄




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After hundreds of miles in the dsesert..You can't tell which is rock rash and owner induced..
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Old 10-10-2013, 02:02 PM   #2428
Hikertrash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenslair View Post
I use a piece of plastic from a laundry detergent bottle. Nice and thick and usually stays in place. I have that same tire on my 1150GSA and am passing the 8500 mile mark. I probably have another 500-1000 miles left before the centerline wears flat.
Yeah, I intended to use a laundry detergent bottle, but threw it out last week. I did use a milk jug but it's so thin that it started to rip so I just said "fuck it" and spooned it on without any protection.

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After hundreds of miles in the dsesert..You can't tell which is rock rash and owner induced..
Haha, that's true
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Old 10-10-2013, 06:17 PM   #2429
HighTechCoonass
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Location: land of the swamps!, Cajun Country LA
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Shinko 705??


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hikertrash View Post
Installed a rear Full Bore M40. Goes much smoother when you stop giving a shit about scratching your rims ��




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Old 10-10-2013, 06:48 PM   #2430
Hikertrash
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Shinko 705??
Similar, but slightly different tread.

http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod...083-AS402.aspx
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