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Old 03-07-2013, 09:20 AM   #196
dean10 OP
Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Netherlands
Oddometer: 260
Gobernator Costa to Pico Truncado, Sunday, 27 January 2013, Day 208

Dammed wind on Ruta 40![/caption]

Today both Alex and me are feeling very brave and have decided rather then head over to Route 3, which is a Tarmac to the bottom of Argentina we are going off road on the infamous Route 40. Not sure why we are feeling so brave as you know my off road abilities are crap and Alex has Andrea on the back of his bike making off roading a tad more difficult but yet we had persuaded each other that we could not be wuzzes and had to the hit the dirt. Packed up breakfast in the campsite and then to Rio Mayo where Route 40 turns from tarmac to dirt and is dirt for 30km and then new tarmac till Perito Moreno then loads more dirt to Tres Lagos but we still had an opt out clause at Perito Moreno to still head to Route 3 if we did not like our little off toad experience.

Filled up the bike and ourselves in Rio Mayo huge piece of breaded meat with cheese ham and eggs on it for a late lunch as again we planning on doing some wild camping tonight.

So stuffed to the gills we gingerly make our way onto the dirt road and to help us with this endeavour the wind is really strong and gusting pushing us all over the place which you do need when you trying to find the smoothest part of the dirt road so progress is slow. There is a choice between a dirt track and another dirt track that sort of being prepared for tarmacking and we swopped between the two finding that the grass was always greener on the one that we not on.

Choice crap dirt road on the right or crap dirt road on the left Alex takes this seriously so he and Andrea took a closer look no photos of this![/caption]

I was already regretting my decision and my rush of bravado to do off road as we crawled through the dust counting the kilometres off one by one till we reached tarmac again. On one of the cross over from one dirt track to another there was the dreaded soft sand on hill which I skirted around but in my mirrors I watched Alex and Andrea hit the dirt they where down. Pull up park the bike so that it will not get blown over by the wind and run back to help the guys up there feet. Everyone is ok bike is ok adrenalin is pumping but all is well. First thing he asks me if I took any pictures to be honest as I was running to help them I did think about the perfect photo opportunity but I my caring Phill kicked in first and helped them and made sure all was alright before pulling the camera knowing that they where fine and it was a low speed off I wish I had pulled the camera out earlier :-)

So I was not happy on the dirt and I guess A & A where not that thrilled with miles and miles of dirt when we hit tarmac the decision was relatively easy we are hitting Route 3 down to Fitzroy as it has taken us nearly 2 hours to do 33km so at that speed we would be in Ushuaia in 2014 so longer by tarmac but definitely quicker for us.

We stop on the Tarmac part of Route 40 to take some fun pictures with the wind and the sign. I had been teasing A & A when they where looking to buy a Route 40 sticker for there bike that they do not deserve it until they complete the full length including the dirt parts well after today and as they had seen Route 40 from extremely close up I said that they had earned it :-) and could buy and add the sticker to there collection.


So the original plan was to head to Perito Moreno and camp there but as we heading to Route 3, which was about 200km we decided as we back on our beloved tarmac that we would try and take a chunk out tonight and headed for Las Heras where my GPS was telling there was a municipal camp site and fuel.

Got there at about 8.30 filled up and went to find the campsite compared with last night it was a hole and there was gangs of youths that had been drinking all day which was most off putting so we soon decided that we heading to the next town even though it was getting late and the next place was nearly 80km away.

So off we headed on the right looking back was one of the most glorious sunsets I had seen for while the light was amazing and in front of us was the moon a new full moon coming up on the horizon so did not know whether to look forward or backwards we where passing through an oil field with nodding donkeys all over the place and it was beautiful and I did not care on reaching the next place by nightfall I was enjoying the light so much. I was trying to take photos whilst driving which was not working for me kept getting my gloves in the way I eventually pulled over to get a shot of the moon over one of the nodding donkeys from a stationery position which sort of worked then in hot pursuit of A & A which involved over taking a police car we had stopped earlier to ask about camping possibilities and they said there was a Municipal campsite in Pico Truncado. They where doing 90km and they had a sticker on the back saying 110km so a sailed past at 109km waving politely and when they where out of site nailed it to catch with A&A.

Got to Pico Truncado just as the Sun had gone down still gorgeous light show and there was an interesting sculpture of a dinosaur made of oil drilling equipment that was dying to be photographed.

Interesting Sculpture but better still the light[/caption]

Whilst we discussing what to do next another biker pulled up and walked over to chat with us his front tyre had just blown and he was busy calling folks. Alex had an electrical pump so we tried that but it was staying up. Turned out the chap name was Daniel and he had a car repair shop a couple of km away and if we liked we could sleep there the night. Wow cheers mate so we follow his mechanic who had turned up to help with the puncture and find ourselves in a huge hanger / workshop in the middle of no where and this is going to be home for the night. The office for A & A and the supply room for Philly and even had a hot shower on the premises. So after chatting to Daniel and looking at his bike we found the recent for the puncture was that he had hit something really hard and dented and broken his wheel explaining why it was no longer holding air so he was lucky to stay upright but show how fragile perhaps V-strom rims are on Argentina roads both me and Alex had a quick look at ours after seeing the damage on Daniel. After offering us dinner we politely declined we where left on our own in this huge workshop talk about trusting and generous spirit this bloke has letting total strangers sleep in his workshop.

Home for the night[/caption]

It was quite late by now but I was buzzing at it had been a long eventual day so we had a cup of tea and sat in the office just chilling for while before pulling out the sleeping bags and mats. Earlier Alex was trying to figure out where he was going to put his tent up and I explained that no need we sleeping in the office and store room I blame this brain freeze on the fall and the long day but made me giggle.

Chilling after a long day in an office in a workshop in the middle of nowhere.[/caption]

Finally hit the sack amongst the car spare parts and oil cans what a strange but great day.

Strange dreams about Police cars or was it a dream![/caption]
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:23 AM   #197
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Pico Truncado to Puerto Santa Cruz,Monday, 28 January 2013, Day 209

Leaving our workshop home Mucho Gracias Daniel![/caption]

Up early as we did not wish to be an intrusion to Daniel and his team when they came to work on Monday morning and we did not want to be in there way.

Daniel had brought us breakfast so media lunas (Croissants) and other nice stuff from the bakery and teas so how thoughtful is that.

Finally managed to leave so Daniel thanks mate you are a star a scholar and a gentleman and we thank you for your generosity.

Trying to get as far South as possible but first Alex wants to spend some time on the Internet getting his blog up dated so at the first petrol station with Wi-Fi he starts working on this. We are heading to a nice campsite we had heard about on an Island in the middle of a river in Cmde. Luis Piedra Buana and I did not fancy working for hours on my blog with a dodgy Internet so I decided to press-on on my own as I fancied chilling out in a the idyllic campsite rather than a petrol station so said I would meet the guys later in the day. So headed to Puerto San Julian for a late lunch managed to find a roast chicken as most of the town was shut. Lots of memorials around for the Falklands/ Las Malvinas war and while I been in Argentina I have seen a lot of references to Las Malvinas being Argentinean so when I am asked where I am from sometimes I am reluctant to tell folks I am British and if I do I always qualify it by saying I lived in the Netherlands for the last 30 years not sure if it is a problem but I certainly do what any hassle due to my nationality so bit cautious with the English bit. Whilst I was in a petrol station signing the credit card in the office there was a telly on and it said Maxima Queen of the Netherland. What read the subtitles seemingly Beatrix has abdicated or will abdicated and the Argentinian have a Queen in Maxima its on all the news now and papers here so I am using this a deflection from my Englishness saying that I lie next door to the Queen, well sort of next door to her horses as it is very topical at the moment. I will not get started on my views on Royalty and Kings and Queens only to say up the republic :-)

Lots of Malvinas/Falklands signs around.[/caption]

Head to the campsite rendezvous spot and its quite nice and out of the wind being on a river which tend to be lower than the land around it so gets you out the wind which is nice as its has been consistent for the last couple of days not that strong I am expecting worse as I go further south.

So go and ask about the camping first bombshell its very expensive for camping considering we paid very little on the Municipal site so go and sit on a nice lawn in the sun and wait for A & A turn up working on my blog this time.

Stop running away Phillys needs a photo for his blog![/caption]

They turn up an hour or so later and I have been enjoying relaxing in the sun but its getting late and we have no where to stay yet so plan b 30km to Puerto Santa Cruz as there is a Municipal site there which we find and its excellent clean loos hot water great location also out of the wind and to top it all its free!

Set up camp head down to the seafront as Alex has a craving for some fish and we find a nice little restaurant on the seafront which has Wi-Fi so take up all the available plugs as our computers need charging and enjoy a good meal and then back to the tent for another good night sleep. Believe it or not I am actually enjoying the camping, which surprises me as usually I find it a pain in the arse but so far I am enjoying it and preferring it to hostels and hotels. Could be the location, could be the fact that its warm and dry so no packing up wet tents could be the company I do not know but I am liking and enjoying it and getting some good nights of sleep in as an added bonus.

Full Moon :-)[/caption]

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Old 03-07-2013, 09:25 AM   #198
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Puerto Santa Cruz to El Calafate, Tuesday, 29 January 2013, Day 210

Daisy :-)[/caption]

Supposed to be heading South and but today going to do a U turn and head North West why the diversion well there is a must see glacier called Perito Moreno that is on my shiny object distraction list so hence the change in direction. As we want to stick to tarmac bit of a detour to Rio Gallegos and we do a quick calculation and decide we make the next one so do not go the 20km into town to fill up. When we get to the next gas station at Las Horquetas we are running on fumes and you guessed no fuel available fortunately I have about 7 litres in 2 old plastic oil cans strapped to the back of Daisy (you where wondering what those where were you not) and Alex has 4 litres strapped to his so finally time to bring out the reserves its 60km to the next station so no reason yet for concern even with the horrendous fuel consumption I am getting at the moment due to the strong wind can make a difference of about 7km to the litre when you are riding into the wind so gives you some idea of the strength of the wind and this is constant all day.

They do have food so we fill up on empanadas and hit the road again it’s a lot cooler and the wind is up so warm weather gear has been pulled out wearing the lining in my jacket first time out since Canada and the warm gloves are on.

Next station has fuel so next stop El Calafate we are debating on staying in town or pushing on 80km as we had heard there was a campsite near the glacier.


Pull into El Calafate at about 5 fill up bit of a queue so while I was signing the credit card slip Andrea thought she would be helpful and move Daisy away from the pumps so the next car could start filling up but I guess Daisy is heavier than she looks and before you knew it Daisy was on her side with a very embarrassed Andrea struggling to pick her up oops a daisy. Had to laugh ran across to help get Daisy up right good entertainment for everyone at the pump Andrea was mortified at what she had done. Quick inspection of Daisy and looked like the radiator cover had a crack in it. Oh well you do not travel 50,000km without picking up some battle scars no one hurt Andrea was shocked and embarrassed so I can milk this one for a while :-)

Alex was also having bike trouble for some reason his chain was suddenly slack even though he had adjusted the chain this morning and it was making an awful crunching sound when pulling away so after checking the obvious which was fine we decided to whole up in town so first some food and then find a campsite and set up camp and then we looked at Alex Bike. We had checked the obvious and where working on the not so obvious so I said perhaps he had lost a couple of teeth on the front sprocket and that could explain the sudden slack as the back end was solid and when he took the side cover off I was right the front sprocket was starting to disintegrate couple of teeth worn down others hooked looked completely knackered not like a sprocket that only had 18,000km on it should be able to do double that and the fact that this happened all in one day this normal a slow process not a day process so I think he had a duff sprocket but problem now was how to get another one In Argentina not easy so hit the internet and contact our new friend Daniel and see if he had any ideas.

Pleasant evening as the campsite had a kitchen where everyone congregated working on this and my photos and chatting to the folks there.

Late night and back in my tent for a good night sleep.

Camping and liking it at the moment !![/caption]
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:28 AM   #199
dean10 OP
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El Calafate, Wednesday, 30 January 2013, Day 211

Perito Moreno Glacier Cool :-)[/caption]

Alex had sent out a couple of E-mails last night for the sprocket issue but had no responses Andrea made us breakfast and we decided we would go and visit the Glacier me and Andrea on Daisy and Alex would hitch hike the 80km and we figure out what to do when we got back based on any responses on leads Alex had posted. First check out the buses to the glacier but expensive and not for a couple of hours so we walk to the road to see how the hitch hiking will work and within about 10 minutes he has lift and is gone so me and Andrea head back to the campsite via the supermarket as I needed my daily fix of Gatorade (my latest addiction) and we both need our biscuit supply’s topping up.

Full bike kit as it was cold and expect colder still at the glacier not sure if Daisy will mind having someone on the back especially when that somebody ceremoniously dropped her in the middle of a busy petrol station scaring her radiator cover. Been a while since I had someone on the back as well and going to be interesting with the wind as well. Turned out okay Andrea an excellent passenger should be the number of miles she done on her trip and we soon whizzing our way to the Glacier. Nice ride and we met Alex at the entrance to the car park he had been there for a while I blamed Andrea she blamed me and we offered him biscuits and all was well.

John R another one for you what is it ?[/caption]

Got to love nature![/caption]

We walked to the glacier from the car park and was a great way to be slowly introduced to the glacier we had seen it from a distance on the way in and it was great but as we got closer it was better and every now and again you would hear a huge crashing noise as bits broke of and fell into the lake cool. There is about 4km of viewing platform round the glacier and we probably covered most of it just walking and enjoying the sights, which was gorgeous. A very nice day well worth the big detour from the big goal of Ushuaia we were tired so got Alex a lift back and me and Andrea then walked all the way back to the Car park and was well knackered when we got back to the bike and the biscuit supply.

Panorama Wow![/caption]

Nice ride back trying to stay awake at one point I turned around to say something to Andrea and she was asleep :-) so either total trust in my riding abilities or like me totally cream crackered.

Back to the campsite Andrea cooked for us again pasta this time which was nice tired of eating out all of the time no news on the sprocket front but we figured that they could still ride with the current one even though it’s a mess so they where heading back Rio Gallegos and as I had done that route and will be coming back through there I am heading for Puerto Natales will ride with them for the first 100km to La Esperanza and make sure they are all right and will meet up with them in Ushuaia. Alex is pretty sure that I am not needed as we did think about shuffling with the luggage me taking Andrea him taking my tent bag to reduce the load but decided to for it as its only 360km to Rio Gallegos and he thinks he can get it fixed there. I have driven for miles with knackered old chains and sprockets on old bikes in the past as I was never one for good chain maintenance so I was not to concerned about this one may sound awful but they could keep on moving for a while.

Another pleasant evening in the kitchen and later by the tents and then to bed another late night under canvas, which I am still enjoying!

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Old 03-07-2013, 09:30 AM   #200
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El Calafate to Puerto Natales, Thursday, 31 January 2013, Day 212

Minors memorial for me Dad![/caption]

Day began with left overs for breakfast which is always nice and was going to ride with A & A to La Esperanza where they would turn left in search of sprockets and chain and I would turn right because I did not want to the same road again and we would meet up in Ushuaia or before.

It was very windy even in the sheltered campsite and so was a bit concerned how it would be on the open road but as we headed to La Esperanza it was not as bad as I expected but that was mainly due to the fact that we had the wind in our backs for most of the way. When I turned right I was heading straight into the wind and had right in my side, which made life for Daisy and me considerably more difficult so fighting the wind for the rest of the day. Another border crossing problem was I could not find the road and my good friend the GPS was playing up as I was only about 30km away but suddenly it was 130km away Doh!

Very few photos taken during the day as I was to scared to stop just in case we got blown over by the wind and could not get back upright again![/caption]

Finally find the road, which is not a road but a dirt track, and find my way to the border. I am the only one there so get out of Argentina easily and another 14km of dirt wind and a bit of rain just to try and finish me of completely and I am trying to find somewhere where Daisy will not get blown over and I am going through Chilean customs. No one there either so chatting with the guys who are telling me that the winds had been gusting up to 100km an hour and idiot boy was out in that will he ever learn. You may have noticed that not many pictures been taken today that is because my official photographer had gone of the other direction and that I was to shit scared to stop just in case Daisy and I got blown over in the middle of nowhere on me own and I would not be able to get her upright due to the wind. So was not surprised to hear about the strength of the wind, as the evidence of this was in me underpants! As I been kacking myself most of the afternoon. So back in Chile again short run to Puerto Natales and to the Hostel I had the name of checked in and did my usual wander around town or today was blown around town as the wind was still quite strong then to a short presentation on the national park of Torres del Paine which looked great but I had a date with the bottom of the world so no time for distractions as I am getting closer to my goal.

Gorgeous wind related sculptures very appropriate![/caption]

Went for a nice Pizza where there was one long table that you joined and was sitting and chatting to a nice German couple who had been traveling for 2 years and doing South America by bicycle and had been defeated by the wind today as well. Like this set up as it is sometime difficult to talk to folks whilst on the road for a shy bloke like me :-)

Back to the Hostel and the never-ending chore of updating this blog it is relentless!

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Old 03-07-2013, 09:33 AM   #201
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Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas, Friday, 1 February 2013, Day 213

Middle of no where ![/caption]

Shorter run today wind not as strong as yesterday but still blowing reasonably hard so could stop every now and again but had to pick my spot carefully out of the wind somehow to avoid me and Daisy ending up on our arses. Scenery is bleak and desolates both negative words but it has something special about where bleak and desolate actually is very interesting and nice to be travelling through. Rolled into town or was that blown into town found somewhere to stay been on a good roll recently and todays was no different. Got chatting to a chap called James who had been there for a month waiting for some spare parts (bearings) for a BMW he had left in Ushuaia and been on the road for 2 years in the Americas making my trip seem rather quick. Problem in Argentina is that you cannot import any foreign goods everything must be a manufactured in Argentina (assembled!) so that why he was trying to get this done in Chile rather tan Argentina. Hope Alex made the right decision on going to Rio Gallegos, as it may be easier for parts in Chile.

Nice colours[/caption]

Went for a wander round town and grabbed some food in a great interesting sandwich place huge meat sandwich no idea what I ordered and was none the wiser when it arrived but it hit the spot.

Thought they where penguins till I saw one fly seemingly they are black and white cormorants John R correct me if I am wrong[/caption]

That evening my computer or rather my computer power cable finally died no longer able to charge my laptop as the connector to the computer which had been on the blink since Santiago finally gave up so tomorrows plan of getting the longer ferry to Tierra Del Fuego at 9 in the morning was shot and new plan to go to a Tax free Zone just outside town to see if I can find a replacement cable! As I will be completely dead in the water without me PC, Daisy and my PC are my prize processions whilst on the road and I have no idea what I would do if either of them broke so need to get the PC working is priority one or maybe I just did not want an early start and the shorter ferry route with regular ferries is an easier route down south we will never no.

Got the PC fully charged by using someone else is cable (thanks James) so had a good couple of hours left in the old girl if I was not successful in sourcing a new power cable.

Yellow House[/caption]


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Old 03-07-2013, 09:36 AM   #202
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Punta Arenas to Cerro Sombrero, Saturday, 2 February 2013, Day 214

Another victim of the Wind![/caption]

So todays mission was to source a new power cable for computer so pack the bike and head to the Zona Franca. It is dull and overcast and threatening to rain and not that warm but only about 7km to the tax free zone. Fail miserably on getting a cable and the people I am dealing with also miserable and unhelpful but I do get a lead of an electrical shop back in town so head back there and in town the people were friendly and helpful they did not have a cable but they pointed me in the direction of someone who maybe able to help so went to the next shop nice bloke does not have one but he will ring a friend and he maybe able to help you. Friend says come on over and see what we can do so I had been going from pillar to post and was not that optimistic but turned out friend had half an old apple cable and it was the half we needed so after doing some final checks on the old one he asks me can we cut the cable and splice in the new 2nd hand adaptor I say in for a penny in for a pound in Spanish of course and we cut the old cable and splice the new old connector shrink wrap it all and hey presto its fixed that will be 30USD. Bit Expensive but a new one would have cost me 80USD so happy to pay the man and happier still I had power for my PC as I realise how important it is to me on this trip.

So it’s about 1pm so question is should I stay in Punta Arenas another night or should I head to Tierra del Fuego not sure if it was wise as I had no idea how long it was to get there and if I would be able to find any affordable accommodation when I needed it but I thought bugger I nearly there must keep moving South.

Hit the road and it was cold damp overcast and the wind was getting up but other than that nice ride difficult when you stopped so very few photos.

Half way there passed Alex and Andrea who was heading to Punta Arenas for a new tyre so we pulled over for a quick chat but not for long as it was just to difficult due to the wind will see them in a couple of days in Ushuaia.

Huge queue for the ferry but I drive to the front of this as allegedly that what we motorcyclist are allowed to do and parked in front of huge truck out the wind so that Daisy would not get blown over as it was still blowing a gale. Bit of a wait for the ferry and I had to stay with Daisy for the whole trip as a bit rough and she was not tied down so was worried she may topple over.

Ferry to Tierra del Fuego finally![/caption]

In the final stretch now it’s about 5pm ish there is 30km left of tarmac before the road turns to dirt for the next 130km and there is a small town where I am hoping there is fuel and somewhere to stay.

Fuel no problem and I see a sign for a hostel down a dirt road so follow this and there I meet Jose working on his car outside a wooden building that looks like workers quarters and that is the hostel and it is workers quarters with communal bathroom and rest area and its empty and cheap so lucky me has landed on my feet have a room to myself well practically the whole hostel to myself with a dodgy heater which will probably asphyxiate me during the night but least I will die warm.

Guessing that this little place is linked to oil industry![/caption]

So after settling in I go for an explore of the one horse town which is a service town I think for the local oil development in the area it is deserted but has a certain charm. Looking for food I find a supermarket but no café or restaurant but I have been told there is one. Walk into a works Mess Restaurant but not for the public but they give me directions to a café which I still cannot find even though a nice chap took me practically to the door so ask again at the Supermarket and the nice lady takes me to a door which is the entrance to the café you could not tell from the outside. It is the local social club and it is deserted except for a young girl watching a Harry Potter film in Spanish. They are open and I have a great feed and use up the last of my Chilean money have enough for my room and breakfast in the morning.

Back to the hostel when I realise I have left my glasses at the café so back out into town again and then sitting in the common area working this on my own place is deserted. Later went out and had chat with Jose who was still working on his car saw an otter and I must say my Spanish is getting a little better day by day but only have the vocabulary for a simple dialog but better than when I first started.

Hit the sack in my toasty room ready for the final push over 130km of dirt road and then 280km tarmac to Ushuaia will be there tomorrow night finally :-)

View from room not bad![/caption]


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Old 03-07-2013, 09:40 AM   #203
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Cerro Sombrero to Rio Grande, Sunday, 3 February 2013, Day 215

Phillys under arrest by the Argentinean Police and very relieved by that fact :-)[/caption]

Dirt roads bring them on good night sleep I am ready for anything well that’s what I thought and you can see by the title I failed to make it Ushuaia :-(

Had breakfast and then tried to find the final short bit of tarmac south but got lost but was helped by a nice policeman who led me to the right road. 15km then a sign saying Fin Pavimento so dirt for the next couple of hours :-(

End of tarmac dirt for a while oh great joy![/caption]

Weather is dull and overcast wind is getting stronger but on my back so that is okay and the scenery is interesting. As for the road this is a mix of washboard corrugated iron surface which shakes Daisy and me to death and or rocky stony gravel which is a bit better as there is route left by car and lorry tyres that is smoother. But then I hit a place where they are working on the road and they have had the huge road smoothers out and I hate it when they do this as in my view this makes the terrain harder and less manageable for motorbikes and the nice smooth track left by larger vehicle’s is gone so slow going. Then the universe thought lets really take the piss out of Philly and Daisy and there was a perfect concrete road running parallel to the crappy dirt track but it was not yet open and not easily accessible. I was chatting to a bloke on the ferry and he told me some bikers where killed on this trying to get on the new road and couple of km there where sections missing so decided not to risk sneaking onto the new road. The dirt track had turned to soft sand and it had been raining heavily all night so this was the most difficult part down to a snails pace for this section.

Dirt roads mine and Daisy's favourite NOT![/caption]


Finally hit the Chilean border and by now the wind was getting stronger so had to try and find somewhere out of the wind to park Daisy or she would be blown over while I went and did the Border formalities.

Quick and simple 15km to the Argentinian side of more dirt roads also simple only problem was the wind was getting stronger and scarier.

So final push to Ushuaia back on tarmac road again heading to Rio Grande where I need a cashpoint and some petrol. Both are easily found the problem is the wind it is getting stronger and stronger and more and more unmanageable. Driving through town keep getting hammered by strong gust of wind and have difficult keeping Daisy upright whilst filling up with Petrol.

So I thought as long as I kept moving I was fine and out of town the wind would be more manageable and I determined to get to Ushuaia today. What a total arse I am!!! Gingerly made my way out of town jumping traffic lights as I did not want to stop case I got blown over and then at one stage I was blown over 2 lanes of traffic and I was no longer in control. Get out of town and I am struggling to keep Daisy in her lane and I am physically trying to pull her into the right lane using her weight my weight and all my muscle power I process but I am failing miserably and I keep moving uncontrollably into the oncoming traffic and that’s when the penny dropped that I was no longer in control and shouldn’t be out there. DICKHEAD!!

So what do I was scared shitless fighting a losing battle getting tired and more scared as I went forward I did not dare to stop did not dare to turn round as I would be on my arse in a blink of an eye all I could do was look for some shelter but I had left town and was in open country so no obvious place to stop. Heeeeeelp!

In the distance was a police control post and two policeman so I managed to get there and stop there with this two guys making sure that Daisy did fall over so it was taking 3 of us to keep daisy upright in the wind. One of the coppers say I advice that you do not go any further as it dangerous. Really officer! I had concluded that as well just recently and I was totally done in scared shitless and exhausted it took 3 of us to manhandle Daisy out of the wind and returned to there little hut.

So this is where I met Alejandro and Harnen my two favourite policemen in the whole world and pretty high on the list of my favourite people at that moment they had rescued Daisy and me from the clutches of the wind which was going to seriously damage both of us if I was to continue.

It was about 3pm and the guys told me that the wind should drop at about 8pm that evening so settled in for a long wait I was going nowhere just happy to be alive Daisy was parked behind Alejandro car with a big metal bar holding her upright.

Sheltered behind Alejandro car and huge stick to stop her blowing over and she still moving which you can not see in the picture![/caption]

So spent of the day chatting with my new friends drinking Mate first hot and later cold with orange juice learning the whole ritual about Mate which is local drink and custom and quite sociable.

The guys should have been checking the vehicles as they past but due to the wind they where having an easy day as it was pretty impossible to stand out in the wind and any documentation would be blown to Antarctica before you knew it.

So just chatting in Spanish Alejandro chatty Harnen very quite loads of questions about how much living in Europe cost, as Alejandro was only a policeman as a temporary measure and was studying mathematics and was going to be high school teacher once he had completed this so was fascinated by economics and numbers. Unfortunately Philly has no idea what anything cost or the price of milk so was not much help but did my best in telling him in my bad Spanish about living in Europe.

We had a visit from the Desk Sergeant so met him as well and then back to the Mate and the chatting.

During the day more Bikers came through and each time they would be advise about not travelling further because of the wind and it was amazing how many people ignored this advise and kept on going the arrogance or the ignorance amazed me. Others joined us in the hut so in the end there where 6 bikes.

Just to give you an idea how strong the wind was 2 Chilean bikers where stopped and given the advice and while talking a gust of wind picked one of them and his bike and blew them completely over. They listened to the advice given :-)


So very gezellig in the hut and before I knew it was 8pm and I been there 5 hours but the wind still showed no signs of abating. There was change of shift at 10pm so said goodbye and thank you to my new friends and hello to the next to police who where much more serious. At about 10.30 me an 2 Columbian brothers Julian and Daniel Ruiz decide the wind has dropped enough for riding back to Rio Grande to try and find somewhere to sleep for the night its dark the wind is still gusting but you can ride and control your bike sort off!


First place closed second place bloody expensive and then we find Ruta 40 B & B and Willy which is reasonable so we have shelter for the night it 11.30 Daniel has managed to get some Roast Chicken for dinner and we are safe and sound enjoying a meal together.

Late night as still buzzing from the day I had just had did not make Ushuaia but was just happy to be in one piece will try and will complete my goal tomorrow as the wind should have dropped by then (Oh god I hope so as I am so close!)
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:44 AM   #204
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Rio Grande to Ushuaia, Monday, 4 February 2013, Day 216

Made It!!![/caption]

Star date February 4 2013 captains log after 216 long days wandering the Americas Star ship Daisy and her Captain Philly of have finally completed there mission of Alaska to Chile or is that Argentina so they boldly went from the Top of the World to the Bottom of the world with a few Zigzags thrown in for just for a laugh or due to the Captains woeful navigating skills.

Extra Extra read all about it

Cor Blimey Guv I think they gone and done it who would have thought! What they gonna do next!

Tune into next weeks instalment at when he gets round to updating it lazy bugger or if you got any suggestion on how the two of the are going to get home well answers on a postcard to yes its that blog again

Message above posted on Facebook so looks like Philly and Daisy made it :-

So lets recap I have just ridden my bike 52,213km started on the 5th June in Halifax Nova Scotia so had to cover 11,500km before I even hit the start line at the Artic Circle so a few km to get the tyres warmed up. It is 17,848km from the Artic Circle at the top of the world to Ushuaia at the Bottom. As we all know my navigating skills are pretty mediocre and I am easily distracted so I did 40,600km and I could go on and on with loads of stats and numbers but not sure you would find them as fascinating as me J One final stat I have been on the road for 216 day and it took me 183 days so no speed limits or records broken and no animals where harmed in the making of this blog (well there was that squashed snake in the Mississippi and all the road kill on the side of the roads)

So what was the final day like had a nice breakfast and Alex and Andrea popped by but did not stay long as they wanted to get to Ushuaia before the wind got up like yesterday again so plan to meet them at the Campsite in Ushuaia. (They just wanted to be first to Ushuaia is my theory J) *The Ruiz brothers and me hit the road at about 10 after a leisurely breakfast and the mandatory photo shoot for willy for his Facebook site

Ruiz Brothers and Willy outside Ruta 40 B & B[/caption]

The wind had dropped considerably still blowing (it never ceases) but manageable so we are off. The Columbians are running a much faster pace than me and disappear into the distance I am determined to enjoy every minute of this last 210km so set of at a more sedate pace and stop every now and again because I can and takes some photos. Nice run and soon I am back in the mountains stop for some petrol but they are topping up the pumps so will take 45 minutes I have enough to get to Ushuaia so press on and then after some nice twisty mountain roads I am there.

Nearly there![/caption]

So how am I feeling about getting here especially after yesterday failure? Well to be honest I have no idea yes I am chuffed to bits as for me it’s a completion of one my life long ambitions and I just slam dunked it!* It was bloody hard at times extremely scary at others but on the plus side bloody awesome most of the time (lets forget about all those times I was whingeing about being to hot to cold to whatever) But what now how am I going to top this one. So with joy and elation comes another feelings of what next as I have been totally focussed for past 7 months (longer in you count the endless years dreaming about this trip) at reaching this point and ignored everything else saying I will deal and handle them once I reached Ushuaia and now I am here going to have to start making some tough decisions and I have no idea where to begin its like a huge void has opened and I have no idea how to get to the other side. So my day of elation that I been working on for so long marred by the reality of real life and that bloody awful question what am I going to do when I grow up!


So not to keen on camping so find a hostel and then go and try to find A & A at the campsite see how they are feeling about reaching the most Southern town in the world.

I was a bit confused as I thought Chile was at the bottom of South America but when folks started telling me Ushuaia was in Argentina I was even more confused but looking at the maps I was right it is Chile at the bottom for some reason the bottom of South America has been carved up and given a chunk to Argentina and Ushuaia is the most Southern Town Punta Arenas the most Southern City and Puerto Williams in Chile as well the most Southern Post office so my original plan of Alaska to Chile was sort of right.

A & A not there so I head back to the hostel and veg working on this and enjoying the great views from the top floor common room across the harbour bay and mountains looks like a great place maybe should venture out!

View from the Hostel not bad but should really go out :-)[/caption]

Eventually go for a walk nice town nice feel to it looking for somewhere to eat but nothing takes my fancy so head to the supermarket and Philly will be cooking tonight and let me tell what I cooked was absolutely disgusting I brought what I thought was chicken cordon bleu which I thought pop in the microwave and hey presto dinner. Nope these are not for the microwave so I end up doing them in the frying pan and they are breaded ham and cheese no chicken so as I said disgusting but cheap!

Sociable place so chatting with folks late night at the bottom of the world hit the sack planning to do a lot of sleeping for the next couple of days, as I am exhausted.


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Old 03-07-2013, 09:47 AM   #205
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Ushuaia, Tuesday, 5 February 2013 to Wednesday, 6 February 2013,Day 217 to Day 218

Shall I just get on one of these and keep heading South?[/caption]

As I left the last post I said I was exhausted physically mentally and every other type of exhaustion you can think of I think I had been running on my reserves for quite a while just trying to get to this point and now was a chance to stop and have a rest. I could have done this earlier but I was and I am still concerned about the weather and winter coming so hence the strict hard push south. But the short-term plan was to do as little as possible for a couple of days and started with a lie in and a leisurely breakfast. Alex turned up while I was eating brekkie and arranged to join them for there breakfast / lunch. They had been looking into trips to Antarctica, which sort of wetted my appetite everyone I ask for suggestions from about what to do next was along the lines of turn round and head north and go up the other side but as we all know I always ignore good suggestions and like going against the flow so jumping on a boat to Antarctica seemed like a good rebellious act. A & A had a few leads and that afternoon I checked out a few leads and a few of the travel agents looking for that elusive cheap deal leaving within a couple of days.

Maybe this bus is going to Den Haag![/caption]

I was also had some domestic thing to do such as laundry and Daisy needed looking at as the chain was making some horrendous crunching noises I thought due to all of the dirt roads we been on there may be some rocks jammed and rubbing but turned out chain was just slack as hell and needed some adjustment I think I adjusted it recently but maybe I did not so took out the slack cleared some debris out around the front sprocket and hope that would stop the horrible crunching noises I was hearing. (Paranoia setting in!). Was unable to take of the sprocket cover as one of the Allen key bolts was slipping and rounding need an impact driver but could see the front sprocket and it looked fine (Was worried the same thing that happened with Alex may be happening with mine)

The plan was to do a test ride up to see A & A at the campsite and crack a bottle of champagne that we did not drink on news years either that they had been carrying but it was late and raining so decided against this went for some dinner (there is no way I deserve my cooking twice in a row) and met a Swiss guy who I had met in Puerto Natales and a Japanese/German/Canadian girl so joined them and then back to the hostel another sociable evening.

A & A had found that elusive deal to Antarctica and where leaving on Thursday Phillys still looking few leads but all mean hanging around for a week or two which I am not sure I fancy and it still not that cheap so not sure I want to afford it awful lot of money and I have spent a small fortune already and still need to get home so am having my doubts about me going to Antarctica.

They knew I was coming and my dislike of dirt roads that they did me this stripe especially for me ( The road not the billboard!!)[/caption]

Day 2 in Ushuaia still in my very lazy mood was supposed to get up early to go into the Tierra del Fuego national park to take the mandatory end of the road pictures as it was free to get in if you got there before the gate attendants showed up for work at 8am but both today and yesterday had two late nights and was enjoying having a lay in and being lazy for a change that I am doing some procrastination and will go tomorrow mañana been in Latin America to long!

Anyone going to Antarctica do not take up much room? View from hostel![/caption]

Meet up with A & A for late lunch and arrange to meet them that evening to say goodbye in their posh hotel, which is part of their Antarctica package little bit jealous as yet that elusive deal had not turned up for Philly.

Saying Bye Bye to Alex and Andrea they are of to Antarctica I am heading North[/caption]

Went for a walk and then back working on this as I was determined to have this damned blog up to date before I left Ushuaia (NB he failed!) and spent a pleasant final evening with A & A (Hopefully meet them down the road as they are great low level maintenance travel partners :-)) and later another sociable evening at the hostel and another late night yapping.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:49 AM   #206
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Ushuaia to Rio Grande, Thursday, 7 February 2013, Day 219

Finally make it to the end of the road for the mandatory photo shot :-)[/caption]

So what is the Plan Philly spent 3 nights here which is a long time by my standards time to hit the road and a new destination that being Iguazu Falls, Brazil so that should please some of you that this trip is not over yet and I will be headed up the west coast of South America it was always my intention but needed to put in a dramatic pause will he won’t he moment to keep you guys interested.

Was supposed to be up early so that I could finally go to Tierra del Fuego national Park and get in free and get the mandatory end of the road Photo.

But have got used to wallowing in my pit again so late start it cold and I think its been snowing in the mountains (It has just got a note from Andrea telling me this) the wind is also pretty strong so I am off to a great start for my return leg got to get of Tierra del Fuego island the same way I came and I hoping that it will be a lot easier than on the way down but need to get some early starts if I am going to avoid the wind.

I had not got round to giving Daisy a test ride since fettling with her a couple of days ago and on the run down to the petrol station crunch grouching sound still there bugger looks like the chain has developed a tight spot that what happens when you do not look after your chain bugger and double bugger. So going to have to keep an eye on this and see how this develops but guess I am looking for a new chain only done 22k on this one last lasted 34k and was still reasonable when I changed it as a precautionary measure and this one looks like it done already the tyres are pretty shot as well only 8.4k on these so looks like Daisy going to need some work done on her soon first big city in Argentina me thinks as she is definitely looking a bit sorry for herself especially after all the dirt we been doing in so some serious TLC* needed if I am going to continue to churn out the miles that I been doing the last months.

Fill up and crunch up to the park try and blag my way into the park free saying I only want to take some photos and I have come all the way from Alaska but no they heard this a thousand time before but if I get there before 8 I can get in free yes I already know that but I am an idle sod. So cough up the money and there is an easy 20km dirt track to the sign. The sun has come out and the park is very pretty but its full of buses as there a couple of cruise ships in town so on my last run to the end of the world I am in a traffic jam!

Gorgeous and foxy![/caption]

The folks on the buses are fascinated by what I have done and I am surrounded by loads of folks when I get to the end of the road sign and they want to shake my hand and have there picture taken with me so was a bit miffed when I thought that the park was going to full of tourist but as me and Daisy are the center of attention and its like I am some kind of celebrity and everyone wants a bit of me I am loving the attention and I think Daisy is thinking you bastard you could have given me a clean and polish considering all these folks want to take my picture but I say the dirty rough look is butch and all the range with long distance motorcycles in* 2013 which will buy me some time before the next bike wash last one was in Columbia!

Been a bit of snow last night need to start heading North ASAP[/caption]

Loads of question being fired at me from the adoring crowd funny thing was they where all pretty negative questions such as did you have any mechanical breakdown, nasty situations, kidnappings etc. they seem dwell on the negatives side of things rather than ask how wonderful some of the place I had seen they wanted to know how bad the place I had been to where which I found very strange but I am noticing that folks are more interesting in bad things than good things and I guess I guilty of that trait as well but it very strange being surrounded by a group of people looking to hear horrors stories so it was only polite that I obliged.

Philly at the bottom of the world[/caption]

Finally freed myself from he crowd (there bus was leaving) and went for a bit of a walk and ride around the park nice place but it was still a bit parky so one of my plans of camping here the night went straight out of the window and I was heading to Rio Grande. Nice run the wind was strong but not enough to impede progress so was just about manageable and I hit Rio Grande ay about 4 and the wind was really starting to blow again for the last 30 minutes but I was nearly there. Headed for the place that A & A had stayed at it was supposed to be cheaper but as usual GPS let me down could not find the number of the house and it was not obvious and did not want pull my computer out and look it up again as I put the dam number in the machine and then it disappears so if anyone knows how to get it back again I would really like to know. Plan B to Willy’s at Ruta 40 B & B and checked in there, as the wind is getting stronger. There is me and a German biker called Doris staying there and we head down to the supermarket for supplies or literally get blown to the supermarket. Philly is cooking again tonight this time edible pasta with ham something I can do and another evening with the PC chatting and working on this. Strange Internet very slow but very good for uploading pictures so getting them up to date at least

Nice old car![/caption]

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Old 03-07-2013, 09:53 AM   #207
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Rio Grande to Cerro Sombrero, Friday, 8 February 2013, Day 220

Bye Bye dirt roads and next to go the bloody wind but will be with me for a while me thinks![/caption]

Plan to day was a big mileage day 2 borders crossings and a ferry crossing and head to the free campsite at Puerto Santa Cruz so that the plan.

Here is the reality did not really get away as early as I liked a leisurely as we know Phillys likes his leisurely breakfast packed the bike bit concerned about the chain as is making some horrible noises when pulling away there is a tight spot and then it I to slack so not sure how to adjust so hoping today will stretch it out a bit more even and then I might go for the over tight if necessary for a short while to see if I get the tightness out if not slack running and a new chain ASAP.

Got lost leaving town no idea how I do it but this is a reoccurring theme cannot blame the GPS as I ignored it thinking I knew the way out ended up in some dead end housing estate been chased by all the local dogs not a nice way to start the day. Followed the GPS this time even though it took me round the houses in my view finally got me on the right road 70km of tarmac and then back on the dirt for 130km oh my heart fills with joy or is that fear. Wind not to bad but it’s a bit damp. Thinking about taking a different route back more dirt but different dirt but in the end stick with the road I had done as I knew it was manageable except for the soft sand bits in the middle.

Never ending dirt roads![/caption]

Hit the Argentinian border same time as two large busses so queues at immigration take a while and then its on to the dirt 14km to the Chilean side of the border and its decided to rain. Not sure if this is an advantage as I can see the cars tracks or the smoother part of the road but as its wet it’s a bit muddier so slippery. Chilean formalities done the name on my temporary import papers is Phillip and Dean as my surname I have told them every time to change this to Beckwith in the system but falling on deaf ears and they say it not important try telling that to some jobs worth copper looking for some extra spending money.

Cold wet bikers not a pretty sight :-)[/caption]

So it is wet so settle in for 130km of dirt roads doing between 40km and 50km an hour so progress steady as she goes. Just before I hit the tricky bit I see a couple bikers at the side of the road so pull over for a chat in fact just a delaying tactic, as I really have no appetite for the sandy bit. Finally hit the road again and the tricky bit is not tricky at all they must have flattened or worked the soft sand bit and before I knew save for an accident where a car had a puncture and rolled over nobody hurt just shocked I was 15km away from Cerro Sombrero on hard road again and it was about 3.30pm. Did some calculation and I was still a ferry a border crossing short and 420km away from my original plan but who cares I am staying here at the nice hostel I stayed in last time and having the same dinner at the same place as last time. So via the fuel station I was checked in said hello to Jose and the friendly dog who lived outside and decided to have an afternoon nap as I cannot remember the last time I had one of these and I needed it after my off road excursion.

Cute dog and friendly as well![/caption]


Later went for dinner good feed again and back to the Hostel which was a bit fuller this time as its during the week so full of oil workers so not on my own some this time so first day heading north worked out well time for bed again.

Nice Evening for a stroll[/caption]


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Old 03-07-2013, 09:55 AM   #208
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Cerro Sombrero to Puerto Santa Cruz, Saturday, 9 February 2013, Day 221

Leaving Tierra del Fuego heading North[/caption]

First thing I did was fettle with Daisy chain as it was seriously slack except for that tight spot so not sure what to do run in tight or slack its well buggered either way but do not want to loose a chain for doing the wrong thing so sort of adjusted and it was still making horrible noises that I will have to live with till I can source a new chain probably in Buenos Aires so that’s about 2,500km away so will have to keep an eye on this. Tyres a pretty finished as well so Daisy is dirty and in desperate need of some TLC which may be a long time coming.

Had breakfast and then hit the road tarmac oh what bliss 40km to the ferry and road straight to the front of the queue again where there was 4 Germans on BMW rentals so chatted with them while waiting for the ferry. Not long wait and we where soon boarded. This time found out you had to pay in a little office, which I missed last time, as I had to stay with Daisy and could have done the same this time as no one was checking whether or not you paid but my conscience got the better of me and I did get a free trip on the way here. Another short run wind getting up but on my back and side so not much bother to the border which was a combined one this time so exit Chile enter Argentina exit Daisy Aduana Chile enter Argentina Daisy Aduana not much queues so through quite quick Phillip spelt with 1 l should be 2 they claim is not important lets see when I try and ship the bike out of here but cannot be bothered to make to much of a fuss I pointed it out they say its fine done deal.

Put my head down and headed for Puerto Santa Cruz and the free camping. Wind was strong but in the right direction so not to much bother with it today.

What do you mean you cannot read my numberplate its as clear as mud :-)[/caption]

Got to the campsite and it was rather busy this time and bugger it was no longer free blokes at the gate collecting the money. Oh well it is a holiday weekend I guess we where lucky last time. Same spot and then head to the beachfront with the plan of using the Wi-Fi and eating as the same restaurant we ate at last time. There was a mini festival going on so I decided to wander around that first and when I eventually tried the restaurant it was closed so plan B BBQ sausage sandwich at one of the stalls and an ice cream so that dinner sorted walked around the few stalls at the festival and watch a few turns on the stage and did the tour of the town (2 streets) and then headed back to the tent to work on this.

Twirly dresses again :-) Bloke at the front likes it to.[/caption]

Always someone who wants to spoil the fun evening officer :-)[/caption]


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Old 03-07-2013, 09:57 AM   #209
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Puerto Santa Cruz to Rada Chilly, Sunday, 10 February 2013, Day 222

Oh give us a bit of room here trying to have a kip![/caption]

Up pack tent fettle with chain which had not some how fixed it self during the night not getting any better if anything worse. Mission today was to try and get some pictures of flamingos and Ostriches succeeded on one account. Wind stronger today making stopping and taking pictures difficult and I only saw one set of flamingos and not an easy place to pull up and take picture.

gotcha not easy taking photos of these elusive little buggers:-)[/caption]

On the way into Puerto San Julian I saw a motorcycle club so pulled over for a look and a chat. Got chatting to a large Harley Rider Arturo I think and he says I am welcome to stay at the club overnight and have dinner but its only 1pm and I want to be a lot further north, he says he is leaving in 2 hours and there is another club in Comodoro Rivadavia and I can stay there bit further than I had planned but doable he asked if I wanted to ride with him but I did not want to wait as the wind was still strong and getting stronger and I reckoned he would be faster than me so he would eventually catch me and pass me and I also had an address so sorted. Hung around for Mate Mate as they call it here and then hit the road trying to look cool whilst pulling away in front of a large group of bikers problem it was deep gravels so I wobbled my way to the main road tried to wave and toot me horn not a graceful exit as I had planned. Thanks for the Mate and offers of food and accommodation much appreciated.

Long day in the saddle high mileage day when I went to plug the address of the motorcycle club in GPS does the usual no matches found bugger its late I am tired so plan B GPS does have a municipal campsite in a place called Rada Tilly lets head there as the wind is getting stronger and more difficult to manage could be that I am tired as well. Saw a lot of cars parked on the side of the road and till now it had been folks stopped for fishing this time there was huge colony of seals and sea lions so pulled over and watched these huge things lolling on the beach for a while.

Seal and Sea Lion Colony Nice![/caption]

Back on the road again blown into Rada Tilly found campsite not bad bit dusty but site is sheltered so home for the night. Go for a walk along a huge and gorgeous beach looking for food find a pizza place and its empty and they charge extra for eating in so get it to go and go and sit on the beach where I am treated to a gorgeous light show as the sun goes down so pizza, diet coke gorgeous view and wonderful light after a long hard day in the saddle not bad me thinks :-)

Gorgeous sunset again and interesting stone sculpture.[/caption]

Back to the campsite, which has Wi-Fi so, sitting the campsite office trying to get photos uploaded and chatting to the bloke from the council on how they can get more folks to come to Rada Tilly and building websites. It’s a nice place lovely beach but the bloody wind never stops blowing but great for kite surfing and cart surfing I think that’s what you call it. Talked about a USP for the place on how to differentiate from other towns along the coast which there are many. So another pleasant evening and back on my hands and knees in the tent :-)

Pizza, Diet Coke and this whats not to like :-)[/caption]

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Old 03-07-2013, 10:00 AM   #210
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Rada Chilly to Trelew,Monday, 11 February 2013, Day 223

No comment![/caption]

Its an official I hate the wind day god it can really get to you that dam wind you cannot see it but boy can you feel it gusting always not always constant so you really have to be on your guard and today it was stronger than usual not as dangerous as a couple of days ago but enough to keep you wary. Additional problem with the wind is that every truck you pass coming from the opposite direction feels like a body punch you brace yourself but sometimes you are still not prepared on how heavy the hit will be so rattled and trying to keep the bike on track you soldier on and occasionally you will get a couple of trucks or lorries in a convoy so you get hammered over and over again not sure when you going to get out the other side so a lot of cursing and swearing was going on in Phillys helmet today not a happy bunny at all.

Woke up and even though the tent was in a sheltered spot it was blowing around a bit packed up dust everywhere and hit the first petrol pump no petrol had been warned fortunately another one just down the road as mentioned wind is up and pushing me and Daisy all over the place but we have it under control but takes some effort fill up and have some breakfast as I am going to need all my energy if this wind keeps up. It does either I get used to it or its coming from a favourable position on my back and only a bit to the side so it seems easier later in the day. Not much to say about the route pretty dull finally hit Trelew where I have a name of a hostel which I find asking directions as Mr GPS is having a strop again. Check and can park Daisy safely in one of the young lads garden round the corner and the next plan is to try and find some Motorcycle shops for some tyres and some serious TLC for Daisy and I think the chain is totally knackered and is making the most horrendous noises which gets drowned out by the wind noise so that the only nice thing I can think of to say for the wind today.

Get a list and a map and ready to trawl the streets of Trelew when one of the lads introduce me to a group of people outside who are doing exactly the same thing as me and before I know it I am in the back of a car with 4 total strangers whizzing round the bike shops. Sorry mum you did warn me about getting into car with strangers but this lot turned out all right. So this was all done in a hurry and still not sure who these folks where and what they where up to but what I did know they going round motorcycle shops. Later find out that one of the guys was Mexican and had problems with his Kawasaki KLR gear selector and one of the other guys was a local KLR guy helping out along with 2 other mates who had the car and knew the shops. None of them spoke English except the Gabrielle a little bit so took a while to figure out what’s going on for while. Today is carnival not that you would noticed this far south but a lot of the places closed or not be able to do anything till Wednesday so I decide to put everything off till I hit Buenos Aires which about 1200km away so hope Daisy can hold it together till then. Ended up back at the hostel after visiting a few shops was offered some tyres at 500usd each thanks but no thanks will continue with my cheap as chips Brazilian Pirellis. Hostel across the road from a large Supermarket so Philly is cooking again Pasta and Ham again and then a frustrating evening with Internet that was hardly working trying to get this blog published but not getting anywhere fast in the end gave up so blog reasonably up to date only problem is not published and getting photos upload so on the web miles behind oh well.

Strange day and I did not take one photograph one because nothing that interesting to photograph and two that dammed wind do not get me started again about the bloody wind I hate it hate it hate it!!!

So the photos today a montage of various Malvinas / Falklands posters signs I have photographed still a very hot topic here makes me feel very unwelcome at times but the folks I have been nothing but nice to me so no ill feeling from the local population towards me as an Englishman maybe because I qualify it with by saying that I have lived in Holland for most of my life :-)

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