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Old 03-19-2013, 06:46 PM   #241
dean10 OP
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Netherlands
Oddometer: 258
Trindade to Sao Paulo, Sunday, 17 March 2013,Day 257

No photos at all taken today due to extreme wet weather conditions so a random shot from yesterday![/caption]

Today I had arranged to meet Andrea and Alex in Sao Paulo and they where staying with an American Chap called Jake who they had found via ADV Rider Tent Space and I had also dropped him a line a couple of days of ago asking could I also stay at the same time and the response was sure so I had a destination back to Sao Paulo the only problem was it was pissing down with rain but I guess this is to be expected when you are staying in a rain forest. So packed Daisy in the rain said Tata to everyone was a bit sad to be leaving as I could have stayed a couple more days in this great little place but you know me onward and forward unlikely that I will double back but I highly recommended the Kaissara Hostel in Trindade unless you are an arse then your not welcome :-)

It was further and longer than I thought to Sao Paulo you probably thinking its Phillys planning and map reading gone wrong but today I will blame the weather it never stopped raining all day and I mean raining proper hard wet stuff I was soaking wet all day. Had to negotiate some seriously tricky roads steep winding roads with cars crawling up the hills on roads that where more like rivers than roads would be just about ok if no traffic but huge amount of slow stop start traffic on very steep inclines with no grip so Daisy clutch given a workout today trying not to stop as when you did you had to try a cover the back brake as the front had no weight on it so it would lock and start sliding backwards and I am not very good at going backwards some say not very good in going forward either J (ABS no good in these conditions either)

But as Daisy is fully loaded and is pretty heavy holding her up on one leg whilst sliding backwards trying to cover the back brake as well very difficult so there was a lot of cursing going on in Phillys Nolan Helmet today.

Then I hit all the tolls road into Sao Paulo so had to stop take my sopping wet gloves of pull out my soggy wet wallet to pay the toll slow wet unnecessary exercise in my view but not much choice.

I was a wet soggy mess when I reached Jakes flat in the Sao Paulo after getting lost on Sao Pauloís spaghetti junctions more than once.

Quick shower and I was sort of human again and had an excellent evening with Jake and his wife Andrea and A & A and little Olivia there 2 year old daughter keeping us all entertained. Brazilian BBQ the meat just kept on coming all night, which was fantastic for this hungry carnivore. So tough wet day today but finished with excellent company and the perfect hosts so a big thank you to Jake, Andrea and Olivia for being so hospitable to this wet weary traveller most appreciated.

So after the perfect evening after a wet day in the saddle thereís was one casualty that being Phillys Passport I had it in its usual place in my Rukka jacket pocket but I guess todays was just to much water as it was a soggy mess a lots of the Visas ruined I think the Brazilian one is just about legible fortunately but lots of the others are ruined so could be a problem down the road. Last time I ruined a passport I could not leave the country for 2 months till I got a new one this was in Hong Kong in 96 just before the handover I am hoping it will not be the same issue here!

 
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:49 PM   #242
dean10 OP
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Sao Paulo to Curitiba, Monday, 18 March 2013, Day 258

Is this how Philly is feeling at the moment?[/caption]

Had breakfast with A & A as Jake and Andrea had already gone to work. A & A heading to the airport to catch a plane to Munich to pick up gunner (there Daisy) to drive to Bucharest hope the weathers not to bad for them and Philly is heading South destination at this stage unknown.

A & A heading back to Bucharest so yet another bye bye photo been a few hopefully there will be more :-)[/caption]

Just like to take this opportunity to thank Jake and Andrea for being the perfect hosts to a total stranger at such short notice I am not sure you know how much I appreciate such gestures and how nice it is to stay at folks houses after been on the road for so long and I very much enjoyed meeting you and getting to share your bit of Brazil for an evening so for that I thank you :-)

Daisy is looking cleaner which is a benefit of the rain however my sheepskin is still wet and my riding kit is still damp but this will dry on the way (Optimist). It was dull and overcast as I tried to find my way out of Sao Paulo back to the coast and before I knew it I was raining again so looks like another wet day in the saddle and it was. It rained then stopped then rained some more did not see much when it was raining it was probably a very pretty ride that I did but I was in the clouds or it was pissing down so I could not see much along the way. Had to be pretty focussed all day as roads where very greasy and treacherous when wet.

Daisy amongst the Bananas[/caption]



As I was heading down the coast wet damp not been able to see anything the thought was going through my head why am I doing this I should just call it quits and go home. I think I was a bit jealous of A & A who where on the plane heading home and just seen a glimpse of being at home at Jakes and Andreas and I was a bit road weary myself and it was going to be another month before I would be back in my little pad in Holland. So I was doing the calculation on how long I would need to get to Buenos Aires could I move my flight forward could Sandra get Daisy on a plane earlier so in other words I was wet miserable lonely and wanted to go home. But than the other side of the argument kicked in Phillip Dean Beckwith you jammy shit you are riding a wonderful motorcycle Daisy through Brazil you are going to ride down along the coast to and through Uruguay as well. You have the luxury currently of not having to work and the huge opportunity to experience stuff other folkís just dream about and you are out there doing it now. You will be bored shitless after being back for a week wishing you where here just like how you are wishing you are back at home at the moment so in short after wallowing and feeling sorry for myself gave myself a little pep talk and at that moment the sun should have come out birds starting singing nice music faded in but it did not happen it just kept on raining so I started the singing myself punched in Curitiba as my new destinations in my GPS as I am always happier when I have a target and itís a good sign when Philly is singing normally means he is happy. About that taking it easy it was 2pm and Curitiba was 280km wet riding away also happy at giving myself stupid hard stretch targets leaves me less time for wallowing and feeling sorry for myself as I needed to focus on the job on hand instead.

Pulled up at the place I had punched into my GPS 4 hours ago no feeling in my fingers as it was cold and I was soaked to the skin. Was not sure what the place I was heading for would be like but turned to be an Hostelling International place so not to expensive and a courtyard for Daisy and a simple one bed room for Philly and across the road a shopping mall with a huge food court so in short everything I need after another wet day in the saddle so settle in hung up all my wet kit went for some food and a wander then back to the hostel to update this and then to bed. Had a blanket first time in ages complete change in weather from hot and sweaty to cold and wet so all I need is to get rid of either the sweaty and or the cold part and I would be much happier but as I have no influence on this lets just roll with punches and see what tomorrow will bring :-)

Hopefully the sun will come out down the road and I will get to see what is hidden behind the veil of clouds and rain heres hoping :-)[/caption]
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:58 AM   #243
Paul J Statham
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Don't bail on us now!!!

Philly
I have finally caught up to your current time and location in your ride report .
I have enjoyed it all. I do not like traveling by myself as much as you do . I do prefer to travel with my spouse or a friend. I would get lonely and I have not had the Luxury of the time you have spent on your trip. I hope to some day when I retire. But I have enjoyed your trip writing style and humor. I can assure you that once you get back home you will wish you were back in S.A exploring the place. I am sitting in my office in London Ontario Canada wishing I was where you are at this minute even if I had to do it by myself. I wish I had of known when you were through this area I would have loved to meet you in person , Have a great safe trip . You have a fan here.
Thank you for taking the time to do so for all us office bound souls.
Paul
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:24 AM   #244
dean10 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul J Statham View Post
Philly
I have finally caught up to your current time and location in your ride report .
I have enjoyed it all. I do not like traveling by myself as much as you do . I do prefer to travel with my spouse or a friend. I would get lonely and I have not had the Luxury of the time you have spent on your trip. I hope to some day when I retire. But I have enjoyed your trip writing style and humor. I can assure you that once you get back home you will wish you were back in S.A exploring the place. I am sitting in my office in London Ontario Canada wishing I was where you are at this minute even if I had to do it by myself. I wish I had of known when you were through this area I would have loved to meet you in person , Have a great safe trip . You have a fan here.
Thank you for taking the time to do so for all us office bound souls.
Paul
Thanks Paul good to know that I have at least a couple of fans out there in the virtual world if you are feeling really bored in the office there are literally thousands of photos I have taken whilst on the road some good some bad but all there to be seen at http://dean64.smugmug.com
So that could keep you and anyone else who is interested entertained for a while
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:26 AM   #245
dean10 OP
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Curitiba, Tuesday, 19 March 2013,Day 259





Curitiba great Murals and artwork![/caption]

After my little bit of wallowing and self pity yesterday I have decided to stick with the original plan and just keep on rolling even though the weather and my mood is telling me to pull the plug earlier but after reviewing the situation I am going to try and relax and slow the pace right down and try to enjoy what is left of my trip so with that in mind I booked another night in Curitiba after a long leisurely breakfast and instead of chilling and relaxing what does Philly do he goes straight out into town heading for a laundry round the corner and then spends the next 5 hours just walking around it as if he has no idea on how to take it easy. It was not raining and only drizzled every now and again so a lot cooler ideal condition for just wandering. Nice town some interesting sculptures and murals doted all over the place and an interesting modern art building which looked fantastic.

Modern Art Museum Curitiba[/caption]



Got back to the laundry at 3 my laundry was supposed to be ready at 2 but still not finished just come out of the drier so glad I did not turn when I was supposed to. Went back to the hostel to have a bit of a rest and to try and get this bleeding thing up to date so spent a couple of hours working on this and then of for another wander round town to find some dinner.





Back to the Hostel again working this and do some planning for the coming days and then beddy byes so that was a Philly rest and relax day going have to work on my slowing it down skills as this is certainly not taking it easy but very enjoyable none the less :-)

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Old 03-22-2013, 08:28 AM   #246
dean10 OP
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Curitiba to Blumenau, Wednesday, 20 March 2013, Day 260

Blumenau in the Rain[/caption]

Todays destination is a Germanic town of Blumenau that Jake told me about all I know that there is a huge beer festival every year biggest in the world after Munich and allegedly lots of pretty girls. Not to far so no hurry to leave weather dull and overcast as I leave Curitiba sort of tryís to rain all day but not enough to put my waterproofs on but damp and greasy in places.



Heading for a Posada I had the address of and just as I find the place after riding around in ever decreasing circles its starts to rain. Checked in and was debating whether on how long to stay as I had no idea what there was to do in this place. There was a mini beer festival, which was starting today which is the universe way of taking the piss out of Philly as he had decided to stay dry till he gets home :-( lady at the hostel is not sure she has space for tomorrow night so book in for one night and go for a wander and it is really pissing down. Walk around in the rain for a couple of hours piss wet through sure this may be a nice town but in this weather not that attractive nice modern cathedral and German looking buildings dotted all over the place. Get in to ruck about 50 cents on a bill for a pasty and coke I had so still in a looking for a ruck kind of mood or maybe I was just soaked and tired and sick of getting screwed even if its only 50 cents so what happened to the relaxed chilled out Philly looks like he still hiding need to drag him out or its not going to be a very nice couple of weeks. Headed back to the Posada soaked to the skin by now was going to take a look at the beer festival but it was to far to walk in this weather and temptation to fall of the wagon and go on a serious bender was there and I am not sure that is the wisest move at the moment :-)





Spent the evening trying to get kit dry and reading started a new book as part of lets get Phill to slow down and relax campaign John Grisham novel so not so taxing and easy reading.

 
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:29 AM   #247
dean10 OP
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Blumenau to Barra da Lagoa, Thursday, 21 March 2013, Day 261

What a difference a day makes![/caption]

Weather forecast is rain but when I wake up the sun has come out. What a difference a day makes had a gorgeous day on the bike if they are going to be like this then Philly may just stay a bit longer :-) (Talk about mood swings!)

Had breakfast on the balcony packed Daisy one of my panniers is leaking chronically not surprised as there a huge hole where I have bumped them against the scenery on one to many occasion. This is pannier with my bike stuff in so not accessed that often but had a look today and as it been wet and damp for a while a pair of gloves had gone mouldy as well as my hiking boots which I have carried for nearly the whole trip and never worn! So next stop need to have a look at this and do some cleaning and repairs.

Breakfast Views Nice![/caption]

Brigite lady from the hostel wants a photo for her Facebook page funny old bird goes from being the nicest person and great hostess one minute to complete unpleasant and surely person in the next minute I thought I had mood swings well this lady has them to difference is she is in the hospitality business I am not one of the reason why I do not fancy staying another night.

Moody and Moody and Daisy![/caption]

Heading to Florianopolis and the beaches there but doing a loop inland rather than going straight there which turned out to be an inspired call as it was a wonderful run through the countryside did not rain all day and the sun was shining. GPS was playing up and got me down some dirt tracks but the scenery was gorgeous and only for some short bits as I had not really planned this bit that I was worried that maybe it would all be dirt but the road where good with sweeping bend after long sweeping bend all day long and the surface not that bad either making for good riding conditions.



Hit Florianopolis at about 5 could have kept going as I was enjoying myself so much and found a nice and empty HI Hostel in Barra da Lagoa where I will be for the next couple of days to work on Phillys relaxing and slowing down skills

Philly’s gone Surfing! Back in a couple of Days :-)


 

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Old 03-26-2013, 05:57 PM   #248
dean10 OP
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Route as at 23rd March

Been a while since I posted the route so here it is :-)

Route as at 23rd March 2013 making my way slowly back to Buenos Aires[/caption]



Part One 30,888km


Part Two 7,420km[/caption]

Part three 24,608km made it to the bottom yeah! making my way slowly to Buenos Aires[/caption]

For the mileage geeks 62,917km and still going strong :-)
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:51 AM   #249
Rutabaga
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Quote:
Been a while since I posted the route so here it is :-)
This is my route of your journey.

Page 17 of 17 ę First < 7 13 14 15 16 17

Seventeen arduous pages spread over a month or two but oddly all occurred in the same location though I did have to change chairs once or twice. Looks about like the same track but a quicker pace, just done via proxy but I sure am enjoying the illusion. Thanks Philly.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:41 PM   #250
dean10 OP
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Time to change chairs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rutabaga View Post
This is my route of your journey.

Page 17 of 17 ę First < 7 13 14 15 16 17

Seventeen arduous pages spread over a month or two but oddly all occurred in the same location though I did have to change chairs once or twice. Looks about like the same track but a quicker pace, just done via proxy but I sure am enjoying the illusion. Thanks Philly.
Rutabaga
Find your self a comfy chair for the final run back into Buenos Aires Phillys big trip is nearly over and I have appreciated your support along the way :-)
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:43 PM   #251
dean10 OP
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Barra da Lagoa, Friday, 22 March 2013 to Sunday, 24 March 2013, Day 262 to Day 264

Thats me on the left :-) not[/caption]

Have spent the last 3 days attempting to surf. How did that go I hear you all ask, well let me tell you I have found something else that I really enjoy but have absolutely no talent for but had a bloody good time trying to get the hang of this. First day quite a lot waves and bloody big ones for a beginner so spent most of the lesson face planting my muggins in the sea so in short did not get up on the board once. Seemingly this old boy is not as agile as he used to be I have recollection of being reasonably sporty in my youth but seems I have lost that ability as It takes me forever to pick up new things these days. In surfing the trick is to get from lying flat on the board to upright position in one fluid motion. Your having a laugh are you not the only fluid motion this old boy had was when he had the trots in Columbia so need a plan B as Philly cannot do that move so break it into 2 steps which is not ideal hence the continuous face planting.

Next lesson need another solution to get this old beached whale standing on a surf board so they bring out the whale size surf board that being one you use for Surf paddling so its the size of a barn door thus making it much more stable and first time I use this I am surfing baby as it nigh on impossible not to be able surf on one of these as he face plants his muggins again on the next wave! So some improvement over the 3 days may be able to progress back to the normal surfboard if I ever do this again but this is a sport you got to spend a considerable amount of time getting the hang off and doing regularly so living near a place where you can do this regularly which I do not see happening and there are many other sports I am crap at that I want to work on before I add another one to my list but will definitely have another bash at this as its quite addictive. So thanks to Josue of Josue Surf School for your patients and an enjoyable 3 days surfing.

Josue my surf teacher cheers mate[/caption]

Surfed for a couple of hours a day leaving the rest just to relax so did a lot of walking and just chilling and reading. Had the room to myself for the first couple of nights, which was nice, but had company on the weekend.



So 4 nights in the same place I have got itchy feet again so moving on again but I did enjoy my couple of days as a beach bum but perpetual motion is Philly preferred state and I was getting tired of people trying to push me back into the sea whilst pouring sea water over me seemingly there is some kind of likeness between me and a beach whale I myself do not see this likeness!

Barra da Lagoa[/caption]
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:44 PM   #252
dean10 OP
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Barra da Lagoa to Laguna, Monday, 25 March 2013, Day 265

So any of you know how to drive this thing?[/caption]

So back on the road again first thing I wanted to do was a quick whizz around the island of Santa Catarina went north first which was pretty uninteresting so was not going to bother with the South part but found myself in the wrong lane in Florianopolis so decide what the hell and took a look at the south of the island as well which was nicer and less built up so I was glad I did this. Back on the main land destination a place called Imbituba no idea why other than itís the right distance away for an easy days ride. Spent quite a while tootling around the island so was about 4ish when I rolled into Imbituba. Spent a while looking for somewhere to stay but everything is quite expensive look both up the coast and down the coast and ask at lot of places but all to much for Phillys budget. Found the perfect place Hostel and camping on the beach but looked like it had shut for the winter or end of the season thought about camping here anyhow but that thought did not last long why because its camping *:-)

So plan B its 40km to Laguna next town along the coast South lets give that a try.



Tourist office just outside town and they give me an address of a place near the beach and just as its getting dark Philly and Daisy find there new home for the night a very well worn out run down Hotel. Cheap and cheerful and pleasant enough so this will do room to myself. Next food which is proving difficult as there are a lot of bakeries and place selling pasty, sandwiches and hamburgers but I am getting tired of this all the time and just want some simple plain cooking but tonight the best I could was a chicken burger sandwich after walking around for a while back to me room and tonightís film was Django Unchained Tarantino latest offering. Nothing special and very weak plot and his cameo roll with the 2 Aussies whatís that all about. It looks like he is just regurgitating his old films using the same cast from those as well as the sound tracks shuffling it all up and hey presto a newish film. You have to do better than that.

This film critic needs to hit the sack good night.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:46 PM   #253
dean10 OP
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Laguna to Urubici, Tuesday, 26 March 2013, Day 266

Nice run through the escarpment.[/caption]

I am heading inland today heading in the direction of Lages on the Ruta138 Serra do Rio do Rastro. Jake in Sao Paulo told me about this road and I had read about it on some others folkís blogs so was looking forward to an interesting run. So slow breakfast quick ride along the coast then right heading for the hills. Been a while since my GPS and Mr Garmin sent me into the unknown today it decided that Phillys needed to do some dirt roads even though we had this discussion on numerous occasion that Phillys and Daisy prefer tarmac and has disabled off roads in his choices menu and yet I still keep finding myself in the middle of nowhere on a dirt road and today was no different. A good day in the saddle even with the addition of the odd off road excursions lovely countryside and a run through a gorgeous road through and up the escarpment that runs along the coast of Brazil.



Stopped and tried to get some information about Lages at a tourist info place but my Portuguese is non existent and the lady there only spoke Portuguese so with my bad Spanish managed to get a new destination of Urubici as it got a thumbs up from the lady which I took as a sign that it may be nice. Rolled into Urubici at about 3 looking for somewhere to stay but all the places I had look at were very expensive. One I thought had potential and I thought the guy said 30 Realís that was around my budget he spoke Portuguese only with a speech impediment making the dialog difficult! Turned out it was 300 Realís not 30 Realís you are taking the piss mate itís a Pousada not the bleeding Hilton. Obrigado mate and ciao. Found a nice Pousada, which was within my budget just as it was starting to chuck it down. Rained for a while so worked on this and the sun came out again so went for a walk trying to find something good for my dinner.



Walked for miles again and found an Italian restaurant just as I was going to resort to the standard fare so nice Spaghetti tonight just what the doctor ordered. Back to the Pousada chatting to the owner who gives me some tips and pointers for my route back to the coast tomorrow had found another route on Advrider and he added some extras to it and showed me some pictures so looking forward to tomorrows ride.

Wild life not so wild![/caption]

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Old 03-31-2013, 06:48 PM   #254
dean10 OP
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Urubici to Torres, Wednesday, 27 March 2013, Day 267

Drop dead gorgeous the scenery not the fella blocking the view in this piccie.[/caption]

What are glorious day was driving along and found myself shouting and screaming at the top of my voice was he angry and pissed off with some local driver again nope it was just pure happiness I was also giggling like a school girl as I was riding along. Why this sudden show of emotion well the scenery I was riding through was drop dead gorgeous and stunning simply breath taking the sun was shining not to hot and whizzing along a road that I knew was a dead end but hey what a dead end :-)

Morro Da Igreja Pedra Furada[/caption]



 

So had yet another leisurely breakfast seem to be doing that a lot lately in my real life I never really bothered with breakfast just a coffee and a current bun on the run well me thinks I going to start implementing leisurely breakfast on a daily basis as I am enjoying them. Mandatory photo shoot, as lady at the *wants a picture of Daisy and me (Life of a minor celebrity is a tough one I can tell you :-))

Mandatory photo shot for the owners of Pousada Prof Verde[/caption]

Hit the road as I mention sun was shining but only 19 degrees C, which was a nice temperature, filled up Daisy as I was heading into uncharted territory with few fuel station first port of call a nice little waterfall and shrine called Gruta N.S De Lourdes which was pleasant then onto the dead end road to Morro Da Igreja Pedra Furada which as mentioned earlier was pretty special. Spent some time here just soaking up the wonderful scenery and wow was it spectacular.

Hit the road again heading to Serra Do Corvo Branco which was a canyon cut through the rock and a sharp descent on a dirt road down the through the escarpment I mentioned before. Yes yet another Dirt road but this time I knew it was coming and was planned for not a surprise like previous days.



Another splendid run and wonderful scenery only blot was as I was riding along I felt something hit me in the face just below my eye because as usual I was riding with my helmet open enjoying the wind in me face. So this is an usual occurrence being hit in the face by flies but this was different it was bigger and hurt like hell and just to rub salt in the wound it stung me I guess it was a bee that I had just head butted and in retaliation it had stung me. Ouch that hurts have been stung about 4 or 5 times by bees on this trip usually on my arms as they fly up my sleeves and cannot get out so end up stinging me on the arms this time on the cheek bone and boy did it hurt felt like someone had punched me in the face.

So lesson here is ride with helmet closed and visor down. Bollocks to that love riding with my mush in the open so going to continue and suffer the consequences, 20 minutes later get hit right in the eye by a fly :-)

So lots of dirt roads today so not making much progress but who cares when the scenery is like this heading back to the coast to a place called Torres again as is much of the planning at the moment based on no real knowledge of the places I am going only that I like the name and the sound of the place.

After another tougher unplanned off road stint rolled into town and straight to the tourist info place to find a cheap place for the night and directed to a nice Pousada round the corner run by a nice elderly couple have a laugh with them whilst checking and then for my mandatory wander around the town looking for something for my dinner and again the scarcity of viable options end up with a chicken crepe on a stick!

Back to the Pousada working on the thankless task that is phillysbigtrip.wordpress.com will be happy when I no longer am obliged to do this, as it is becoming quite a chore. So some last minute feedback and appreciation of my efforts here would be nice even if it is just a smiley face and or thumbs up. Daisy needs some love :-)



 

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Old 04-01-2013, 04:41 AM   #255
Rutabaga
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Southeast Lower Carolina
Oddometer: 729
. As always, it is appreciated that you are devoting an immense amount of resources to create, edit, and post these pictorial essays. I often wonder if some of the so called classic writers of literature would have bothered in their efforts if they had to ride a motorcycle down the road, stop it, get off, get protective gear off, get pen and paper out, compose, write, then reverse the process to go a few more miles down the road to repeat the exercise just to get a poem, novel or whatever completed. Artists? Sculpturers?
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