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Old 02-06-2013, 12:39 PM   #1021
crashmaster
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Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
Hey paul,

Actually, next time I need a fuel injected bike.
Yeah man EFI is really nice up there.
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:41 PM   #1022
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"The night before leaving Arequipa, I picked up a late Christmas present to myself, transported to Peru courtesy of bubbletron's boyfriend, Scott."



Hey Bryce,

It was great to meet up in Arequipa and fun on this end to contribute in a small way to your adventure that so many are following! I had a blast riding and exploring the Canon del Colca, the Altiplano and Cuzco region/Valle Sagrado with bubbletron and my rented steed, el burro, a Blue Gen II KLR from Peru Motors. BTW bubbletron informed me that you also would have appreciated a delivery of a fine US product similiar to local custom of chewing Coca leaves and I wish I had known before because an entire log of said product would have found its way south to you to support your adventure! Look forward to meeting up in Oregon for some riding when and if you return.

Cheers, Scott (aka mendovet, and when south of the border, menudovet)
Scott, you're the man! Thanks a ton for bringing that thing down to me at the last minute! It's paying off bigtime on these Chilean Autopistas! And about the dip, it's a good thing you didn't bring any of that. This trip has forced me to quit, which is a good thing, but if someone offered me a dip right now, I don't know if I would have had the willpower to resist! Thanks again man! I'll hit you up when I get back!

Bryce
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:43 PM   #1023
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Nice shots of the Lagunas Route, captures the essence of riding on Mars as much as photos will allow. I hope the info I pointed you to helped you out along that route.

There are some really nice high passes between Argentina and Chile that I would highly recommend. Paso Sico, Paso San Francisco, Paso Agua Negra, among others. The spine of the Andes is quite spectacular as you head further south and criss cross your way back and forth from Chile to Argentina. And of course, the Carretera Austral from outside of Futaleufu all the way to Villa O'Higgins is worth the effort, then back track up to north of Cochrane and cross into Argentina at Paso Roballo, very nice stuff. When you get further south, Chalten is worth a look and a couple spectacular day hikes near Cerro Torre and Fitzroy, as well as Perito Moreno glacier.

Things will get a bit cheaper when you cross into Argentina. As you head deeper into Patagonia prices will increase as well, but there are great spots to camp all through Patagonia as long as its not pissing down rain the whole time.

Great report amigo, salud!

Vin
Nice, thanks for the advice! I need to get my butt in gear and get down there while the weather is still relatively warm!
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:46 PM   #1024
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Awesome! Which ones? I miss my Dyna so bad right now....
It definitely doesn't miss you. I do though.
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:47 PM   #1025
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Stealth Camping 101

Day 113 (February 4, 2013)
Taltal, Chile to Huasco, Chile
Day's Ride: 329 Miles



After updating my ride report at the Internet Cafe in Taltal, I grabbed some supplies at the local mercado, then started backtracking north out of town to look for a camping spot. On the way out, I saw a couple of Mormon Missionairies walking down the street, and shouted a quick hello to them in English. That caught them off guard, so I pulled over and talked to them for a while. It's always nice to meet Americans in far off places and have a conversation in English every now and then.

About five miles north of town, I found a beautiful spot to camp right next to the ocean. There was only a small "sendero" (trail) leading to it, but the XR650L was built for such things, and I was able to ride to it with no issues. I don't think a BMW would have done well here....sorry Mike !

I set up camp and started cooking right as the sun was going down. Beautiful!



Now granted, this wasn't a very stealthy spot as it was in full view of the road; however, there were several families literally living on the beach a few hundred yards away, so I didn't think I would have any issues. There was plenty of trash laying around as well, which really was the only negative thing. For those of you that are reading along in preperation for doing this trip, here are the coordinates for where I stayed: -25.26898, -70.44061. Really, you could camp just about anywhere north of Taltal without issue.

I woke up the next morning around 8:00 PM and was surprised to find a man rolling bales of dried kelp up the beach a few feet away from my tent. We chatted for a minutes and I still wasn't able to figure out what he was doing with the kelp, but he complimented me on my bike and then went on his way. I imagine he was using the kelp for fuel for his fire or something.

In any event, I cooked my breakfast, packed up, and got ready to hit the road. I found a pretty cool bird skull lying in the sand and decided to add it to the front fender of my bike:



I've been looking for a good skull hood ornament since Mexico! After zipping birdy down, I found a slightly less harrowing path out of my campsite and back to the main road:



This was a little more managable, but there were still a few sections that I don't think a bigger bike could have made it through. Once again, I was extremely glad to be on a light and tall 650cc bike.

South of Taltal I headed inland for a National Park that a few Chileans had recomended to me when I was camping in San Pedro.



I was trying to avoid riding on the Panamerican Highway as much as possible and this seeemed like a good diversion. The road immediately switched to something that wasn't quite pavement, but not quite dirt. I looked in my handy little Chilean road map/book that I had picked up at a local Copec gas station and found that it was labled as "Establizado con Sal" or Salt Stabilized.



It was quite nice really, hard as contrete with very few pot holes. It was better by far than any road in Honduras...

Pan de Azucar ended up being really pretty and I stopped for lunch near some fisherman who had recently returned with a fresh catch. This guy cleaning the fish and feeding the scraps to some pelicans who were loitering a few feet behind him.



He would tease the pelicans and wave the fish guts back in forth in front of their faces; their heads would bob back and forth, their eyes following the fish guts like begging dogs waiting for a scrap from the master. It was great entertainment!

I continued south near the ocean, cutting back and forth on salt roads trying to stay off the Panamerican and as close to the water as possible.







I eventually came across a couple of dutch cyclists. We stopped and talked for a while; they were on their way north from Ushuaia and had started riding in October, so I was able to get some information on road conditions down south. Looks like im in store for a lot more gravel!



I've got lots of respect for people who do this trip on bicycles. I'm a cyclist back home, but I can't imagine carrying all of that gear on a bicycle for thousands of miles and years at a time! What a journey!

I spent the rest of the day linking up salt roads trying to stay near the ocean.



Eventually I made it to the town of Huasco where I bough supplies and fuel, then back tracked again out of town to find a campsite. Luckily, I found the mother of all stealth camping sites (-28.41573, -71.19815). It was so stealthy that some people pulled up in a truck twenty feet from me and didn't even realize that I was there. It was also quite beautiful and even had a little rock wall that someone had built around the sleeping area. However, it was full of trash. Luckily, someon had left an old rusty shovel lying around and I was able to clean things up quite nicely.



Just behind the low rock wall on the bottom left of the picture is the little niche where I put up my tent. The spot where I parked my bike was hell to get into; once again, only a farily small bike with good clearance could make it in here. Event then, I wasn't quite sure if I would be able to get the bike back out in the morning...
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:58 PM   #1026
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Very cool! Make sure you wash off your undercarriage well after all those salt roads (the bike's too!).
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:37 PM   #1027
huzar
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I'm down...

Seriously, let's try and coordinate on getting our bikes back to Seattle. It sounds like we are all needing basically the same thing...
And if you need logistics support or a place to crash while you're picking up your bikes in Seattle, let me know. Least I can do to return the favor after Mike stood in line stupid early to get those train tickets
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:04 PM   #1028
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I say we go Priate, hi-jack a ship, load the bikes on board, sail it back to the states (Mike can captain 'cause he grew up on a fishing boat), unload, then sell it to a scrap yard in Mexico....
I'm in!
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:48 PM   #1029
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I'm in!
Awesome! Now we just need to get Mike on board!
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:26 PM   #1030
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Awesome! Now we just need to get Mike on board!
If he backs out, I have a couple of sailor friends that might be up for the adventure...
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:05 AM   #1031
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Cruising the Panam

Day 114 (February 5, 2013)
Huasco, Chile to Los Villos, Chile
Day's Ride: 321 Miles



Getting out of my super stealthy campsite proved to be a bit of a challenge. I had to pivot my bike 180 degrees on the kickstand before clearing out my line and attempting to ride out.



Luckily I made it out without issue and was able to get back on the road. The salt roads were mostly played out by this point, so I stuck to the Panamerican Highway and cruised.



Chile is very modern and nice. It's like being in Europe or the States. They even have four lane divided highways, which is always nice when you just want to make some miles.



Another mark of modernity is the fact that they have Wal-Mart (called "Lider" down here for some reason).......



I actually went in to look for AAA Lithium batteries for my SPOT and was immediately overwhelmed by "the people of Wal-Mart". Seriously, Wal-Mart down here is no different than it is back in the states, complete with the odd and sometimes downright strange clientèle. Unfortunately, "Lider" didn't have my batteries, but after a little searching, I found a store nearby that carried them



These things are damn hard to find. I haven't seen any since I left Mexico. Granted, I haven't been looking overly hard, but still it seems like you should be able to just walk into a major store and grab a few packs, especially someplace modern like Panama City, Medellin, or Chile. Instead, I had to hector and badger multiple people until I finally found someone to lead me to a tiny, dusty display case tucked away behind the customer service desk. I ended up paying 20,000 pesos for 10 AAA batteries; that works out to about $42! If you're planning on doing this trip with a SPOT, save yourself some trouble (and money) and just buy 20 of these things before you leave the states.

After finally escaping the clutches of the Wal-Mart I hit the road again heading south. As I moved further out of the Atacama, the vegetation began to increase and I found myself thinking that I was back in Southern California on I-5 between Orange County and San Diego.



I kept my eyes peeled for a good place to pitch my tent, but realized that things were a little more populated and developed this far south. I eventually came across a campground and pulled in to see how much it would cost. The old man running the joint wanted 20,000 pesos ($42)! That was a little outrageous and I told him so. I told him that I could camp at a campground in the states for less than that (KOA) and it would have wifi, hot showers, and a swimming pool! He wasn't budging on the price, so I started to put my helmet back on to leave when a younger guy walked up and started talking to me in English.

Turns out that he was the owner's son and was willing to deal. He said I could camp for 15,000 pesos and I told him I would just take my chances on the beach for that much money. He finally asked me how much I was willing to pay and I told him 10,000 pesos. I should have gone a little lower, but I was tired and didn't really feel like arguing to much. He agreed to 10,000 and I was all set.



The campsite was nice, but for 10,000 pesos, I probably should have gotten a little more. Oh well, live and learn.
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:19 AM   #1032
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Into Santiago

Day 115 (February 6, 2013)
Los Villos, Chile to Santiago, Chile
Day's Ride: 149 Miles



Nothing much to write about today. The last remaining vestigages of power in my camera finally died, so now I'm limited to my iPhone for pictures until I can find a new way to charge it. I rode the last few miles into Santiago on the Panam.



The second Hostel that I stopped up ended up being fairly cheap and having a massive side yard with parking for my bike, so I jumped on it.



The name of the Hostel is "Hosteling International", one of the chain of Hostels. It's only 8,000 pesos (cheaper than last night's camping) so I'll probably stay here for a few days and hunt for a new sprocket for my bike, a camera charger, and possibly some new tires.

Ulyses screwed with this post 02-07-2013 at 05:28 AM
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:18 AM   #1033
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Dang!!! Thats one heck of a trip and one I'm wanting to do. Subscribed!!
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:14 AM   #1034
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You might just try using rechargable batteries (2x) all around and forget the alkalines,find a chargers for all your needs.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:02 PM   #1035
alvincullumyork
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I gonna need to start seeing some penguins soon.
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How to ride your XR650L to South America: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...2#post19932112
If you're in my area on a ride and need a place to crash, a hot meal, or some beer let me know. 913 260 7873
Things I'm looking for: CRF Forks, CRFX front wheel, XR650L Rear Wheel.
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