F800GS Brake Pads

johngil · 03-02-2010, 08:53 PM

Anyone happier than normal w/ any aftermarket pads using the stock rotors?
Part #'s?

CrazyMike · 03-03-2010, 01:43 PM

John,
I wish I could offer up some advice on current brake pads but at 13600, I'm just about to put on some Galfer FD165 Black pads on the rear and FD 172 Green pads on the front.

It'll be a couple of weeks before I can offer any advice but I'll try to follow up for you.

johngil · 03-03-2010, 03:15 PM

I may try these as well. It's time (again).

YetiGS · 03-03-2010, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johngil

I may try these as well. It's time (again).

If you didn't ride in so damn much mud . . .

johngil · 03-03-2010, 03:23 PM

"when i get home, i'm gonna punch your momma right in the mouth, because there is no wayyyy you came from my loins."

GSranger · 03-03-2010, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johngil

"when i get home, i'm gonna punch your momma right in the mouth, because there is no wayyyy you came from my loins."

I love Jackie Gleason in that movie

PackMule · 03-04-2010, 06:26 AM

I've got a set of Galfer Gold's on the rear now. The rear is very easy to lock up b/c of the studded knobbies, but the gold's have a nice feel and are easy to modulate. Much better than the stockers.

Can't comment on longevity yet.

johngil · 03-05-2010, 03:47 PM

CrazyMike, thanks for the info. I will ride Sunday and report back.

bumbee800 · 03-05-2010, 04:24 PM

I have a set of carbone Lorraine pads on their way from bmwboneyard.

Any trick to mounting these new pads. Do you just push the pistons back in and if so what are using to push them back in with?

I was also planning on flushing the old brake fluid while doing this. Is there anything I need to be aware of when flushing the brake fluid (ie abs got yas)? I have always just opened the bleed valve and squeezed the brakes while replenishing the old fluid with new in the resevoir being careful not to run the resevoir dry.

Any advice would be appreciated.

CrazyMike · 03-06-2010, 06:20 AM

The rumor is that you don't have to unmount the calipers to replace the brake pads. Removing the calipers is not that hard so either way that works for you will be fine.

I use a large flat-bladed screwdriver to compress the pistons back into the caliper.

No extra tips for bleeding the brakes even with ABS (which I have and I've bled).

Good luck!

johngil · 03-06-2010, 06:27 AM

I pulled the rear wheel. Easy enough.
For the front, I removed the calipers. Probably unnecessary, but so easy I really didn't think about it.

As for bleeding the brakes...
I have changed a couple of brake lines on the bike (w/ ABS) and bleeding the system was totally painless.

Bayner · 03-06-2010, 07:09 PM

FYFFI:
Proper method for brake pad replacement on an ABS system includes opening the bleeder screw when retracting the pistons. This prevents any sediment from being forced back up through the plumbing and F-ing up your ABS valving, which you definately don't want to have happen.

(I've done it without opening the bleeders many times, :ie when they're siezed, and rarely had troubles. However these bikes are new enough nothing should be stuck. Opening them regularly will ensure it stays that way.)

johngil · 03-07-2010, 06:57 PM

Love the green up front. The black in the back works well, but may be lacking feel. Only got in 120 miles or so. Lots of fire roads and sliding.
I may be tempted to try the green in the back as well.

PackMule · 03-08-2010, 05:53 AM

The gold has good feel (IMO) out back, John, and should last longer than the greens.

johngil · 03-08-2010, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PackMule

The gold has good feel (IMO) out back, John, and should last longer than the greens.

I have used the gold on my KTM's.

I'm reluctant to try them on the brokeback beemer only because of them being harder on the rotors. From the price sheets I have seen, I would need to sell my son and pimp out my wife to pay for a new set of rotors.

I'm sure I'm just being paranoid.

03-02-2010, 08:53 PM	#1
johngil ^OP Reseda, CA Joined: Jun 2007 Oddometer: 3,489	F800GS Brake Pads Anyone happier than normal w/ any aftermarket pads using the stock rotors? Part #'s?

03-03-2010, 01:43 PM	#2
CrazyMike *42* Joined: Jul 2007 Location: South Cackalacka Oddometer: 777	John, I wish I could offer up some advice on current brake pads but at 13600, I'm just about to put on some Galfer FD165 Black pads on the rear and FD 172 Green pads on the front. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can offer any advice but I'll try to follow up for you. __________________ Mike --------------------------------------------

03-04-2010, 06:26 AM	#7
PackMule love what you do Joined: Aug 2005 Location: New Hampshah Oddometer: 19,441	I've got a set of Galfer Gold's on the rear now. The rear is very easy to lock up b/c of the studded knobbies, but the gold's have a nice feel and are easy to modulate. Much better than the stockers. Can't comment on longevity yet. __________________ Nate in N.E. Yes, I have a Dakar problem -- that there are 50 weeks of the year without Dakar! They don't expect you to finish. That's why it's the Dakar. -- PPiA Get your sweet Pyndon DakARTwork here Pyndon '13

03-06-2010, 06:20 AM	#10
CrazyMike *42* Joined: Jul 2007 Location: South Cackalacka Oddometer: 777	The rumor is that you don't have to unmount the calipers to replace the brake pads. Removing the calipers is not that hard so either way that works for you will be fine. I use a large flat-bladed screwdriver to compress the pistons back into the caliper. No extra tips for bleeding the brakes even with ABS (which I have and I've bled). Good luck! __________________ Mike --------------------------------------------

03-08-2010, 05:53 AM	#14
PackMule love what you do Joined: Aug 2005 Location: New Hampshah Oddometer: 19,441	The gold has good feel (IMO) out back, John, and should last longer than the greens. __________________ Nate in N.E. Yes, I have a Dakar problem -- that there are 50 weeks of the year without Dakar! They don't expect you to finish. That's why it's the Dakar. -- PPiA Get your sweet Pyndon DakARTwork here Pyndon '13

03-03-2010, 03:15 PM	#3
johngil ^OP Reseda, CA Joined: Jun 2007 Oddometer: 3,489	I may try these as well. It's time (again).

03-03-2010, 03:23 PM	#5
johngil ^OP Reseda, CA Joined: Jun 2007 Oddometer: 3,489	"when i get home, i'm gonna punch your momma right in the mouth, because there is no wayyyy you came from my loins."

03-05-2010, 03:47 PM	#8
johngil ^OP Reseda, CA Joined: Jun 2007 Oddometer: 3,489	CrazyMike, thanks for the info. I will ride Sunday and report back.

03-05-2010, 04:24 PM	#9
bumbee800 Adventurer Joined: Apr 2009 Location: Vancouver Canada Oddometer: 44	I have a set of carbone Lorraine pads on their way from bmwboneyard. Any trick to mounting these new pads. Do you just push the pistons back in and if so what are using to push them back in with? I was also planning on flushing the old brake fluid while doing this. Is there anything I need to be aware of when flushing the brake fluid (ie abs got yas)? I have always just opened the bleed valve and squeezed the brakes while replenishing the old fluid with new in the resevoir being careful not to run the resevoir dry. Any advice would be appreciated.

03-06-2010, 06:27 AM	#11
johngil ^OP Reseda, CA Joined: Jun 2007 Oddometer: 3,489	I pulled the rear wheel. Easy enough. For the front, I removed the calipers. Probably unnecessary, but so easy I really didn't think about it. As for bleeding the brakes... I have changed a couple of brake lines on the bike (w/ ABS) and bleeding the system was totally painless.

03-06-2010, 07:09 PM	#12
Bayner Beastly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2008 Location: Penticton, BC Oddometer: 1,237	FYFFI: Proper method for brake pad replacement on an ABS system includes opening the bleeder screw when retracting the pistons. This prevents any sediment from being forced back up through the plumbing and F-ing up your ABS valving, which you definately don't want to have happen. (I've done it without opening the bleeders many times, :ie when they're siezed, and rarely had troubles. However these bikes are new enough nothing should be stuck. Opening them regularly will ensure it stays that way.)

03-07-2010, 06:57 PM	#13
johngil ^OP Reseda, CA Joined: Jun 2007 Oddometer: 3,489	Love the green up front. The black in the back works well, but may be lacking feel. Only got in 120 miles or so. Lots of fire roads and sliding. I may be tempted to try the green in the back as well.

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