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Old 10-31-2012, 11:29 AM   #16
LanceR75 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoktorT View Post
For sure if you haven't, shine a light down into the gas tank to access condition of liner and the lower seams. Loose chips of liner will clog up the works again in short order if all you did is drain and rinse. In any event, low cost inline filters added help keep the float valves and bowls clean.
Tank is clean!
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:33 PM   #17
datchew
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baptize it in something hoppy and save some for yourself before you push the button.
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:21 PM   #18
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Well? Did it start?
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:22 PM   #19
LanceR75 OP
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Originally Posted by WooPig View Post
Well? Did it start?
Almost there. Had to order then order some more carb bits. Should have her ready in a few days.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:04 PM   #20
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My R80 had been sitting for 12 years and I simply changed all the fluids, cleaned the tank and carb bowls, fitted a new battery and rode it, 4 hours to get it running IIRC.
Whatever you do now, run it for a few hundred miles then give it another full service changing the fluids again.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:01 AM   #21
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Pull the oil pan, clean it out make sure the pick up is in good condition and that the screws have not backed out.

After ten years there will be some nasty a$$ stuff that settles out onto the pan.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:16 AM   #22
Cogswell
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Looks like you have a good handle and lots of help on the pre-flight prep.

You will want to ride the bike for 20-30 minutes before attempting carb adjustment or balancing. "Fully warmed up"


We do need to see some pictures while you're waiting on parts.


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The good thing is, your damn motor can't read. If it says oil on the container, it's pretty much OK to dump in there.... ED.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:41 AM   #23
Geeto67
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here is a debate for you all.....do you change the oil prior to first startup after a prolonged nap or after?

I have always started the bike on the oil it had in it, then once hot, drained and replaced with fresh stuff. I have done this on at least a dozen aircooled honda fours in my life and some of them had been sitting for almost 20 years. Every mechanical based job I ever worked in I was always told to change the engine oil hot not cold on stored vehicles. Of course I was always told to prime the oil pump before start up, even if it meant just turning the engine over with the starter (most 60's GM cars you can prime the oil pump by pulling the distributor and turning the pump gear with an electric drill - on the SOHC cb750s I always kicked it over about a dozen times and usually the red oil pressure light would go off).

However, a friend of mine recently ruined an R65 engine when he did it because there was water in the crankcase that did not show on the dipstick and he spun a bearing.

so, hot oil change or not?
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Old 11-16-2012, 02:18 PM   #24
Rinty
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Quote:
...do you change the oil prior to first start up...Geeto67
I think you answered your own question, with the anecdote about your friend.

If I was about to start a long stored machine, I would drain the oil first, then fill with an inexpensive brand of 10W-30 automobile oil, then run the bike until hot, but not at high rpms, and then drain it and fill with a quality motorcycle oil.
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