|11-15-2012, 10:06 PM||#16|
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
Another failure point is where the wire goes through a small opening to the inner sanctum where the coiled wire lives. It can chafe on the opening and ground out there.
Inertia is the enemy here. High temps don't help either.
As for the insulation, I don't recall if they have any or not. The housing is plastic, so there's no conductivity there. I'm sure some insulation wouldn't hurt, just make sure the heat shrink doesn't interfere with the brushes sinking deeper as they wear.
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges
BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACH*SPEEDO*CLOCK*VOLT METER *PODs & LIGHT BOARD*
|11-16-2012, 06:23 AM||#17|
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: backwoods Alabama
Well put, Wirespokes.
Common sense and periodic maintenance will go a long way in ensuring a trouble-free charging system. No matter what system you have.
One thing to be careful about on stator removal is when you are nudging it out of the timing case is to very gently push only on the iron stator laminations. Not ever the copper stator wires, or on the aluminum housing. The stator can be compromised, and the damage can be subtle and not show up right away. And put a thin film of grease or anti-seize on the joint between the stator laminations and the timing case cover. This will minimize future corrosion between these dissimilar metals.
Carry a proper rotor removal bolt. You can piece together something from junk parts that may work, but you can also screw the pooch. Bigtime.
If you seriously travel, tour or ride frequently, pick up a spare rotor. Even if you have a half-kilobuck ultimaet system. Rotors can and do fail.
'73 R60/5 Toaster
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