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Old 11-02-2012, 05:05 AM   #16
Yachtie OP
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Thanks all! I have a good idea where to start now. And I bought and installed brand new coils and if anything it kind of made it act a bit worse.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:05 AM   #17
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So tonight I plan to Swap the carbs and see if that narrows it down

If that doesn't work, going to look into Ignition Timing

If that doesn't work, i'll look into valve timing.


I do not have a BMW Tool kit, off the top of your heads What tools will i need to do any/all of the above tasks?

On a totally different topic, I'd like to do a oil change as well, do i need a BMW specific oil or can i pick up a oil from a local autoparts store?
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:07 AM   #18
Uncle Pollo
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Pics to see what are we against

What carbs do you have?

Uncle Pollo screwed with this post 11-02-2012 at 06:13 AM
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:12 AM   #19
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Dont touch the oil yet for your own sakes.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:34 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yachtie View Post
So tonight I plan to Swap the carbs and see if that narrows it down
If that doesn't work, going to look into Ignition Timing

If that doesn't work, i'll look into valve timing.

I do not have a BMW Tool kit, off the top of your heads What tools will i need to do any/all of the above tasks?

On a totally different topic, I'd like to do a oil change as well, do i need a BMW specific oil or can i pick up a oil from a local autoparts store?
I run standard castol 20-50 from the autoparts store in my airheads, since they have a dry clutch and use gear oil in the tranny. Oil is very subjective and people get very passionate about it. What ever oil you end up using, change it often
Read up on the oil filter, it's special, and weird and very german.

There are a zillion tool threads on here. but a good place to check out is Cruztools, they have/had a list of tools in their kits. That is a very soild list of tools to get, just remember that metric sized wrenches for BMW bikes are not the same sizes as used on Japanese bikes (there's a lot of use of the odd sized wrenches on BMW and the Japanese use even sizes)
6-14mm wrenchs 3-12 hex, 1,2,3 sized +screwdrivers, a selection of standard screwdrivers 8-14mm sockets
A spark plug wrench and feeler gauge are good places to start.
The nice thing about cruztools is if you decide to get one of their sets it's all pretty much there.
More expensive then building the kit yourself, but a big time saver.

As for the bike.
I suspect one of two place
A bad coil or other ignition related electrical gremlin.
Intake valve

Double check your electrical connections Make sure they are clean and well connected.
Make sure both carbs are very clean and free from crud as well as the tank, petcocks and fuel lines
Insulators can be had from BMW (the rubber hoses from the airbox to carb and from carb to cylinder head
Check your valve lash adjustment

How did the plugs look when you swapped them out?

You can do this, with the bike cold, take a hair dryer to the coil, get it nice and warm(not smoking hot but more like hot enough that it's just cool enough for you to keep your hand on it, but it feels really hot) then try and start the bike, is working ok?
Or is the bike running funky? if it's running funky that's where your problem is, if it's running fine. Well then the problem is somewhere else.

Normally, carb issues show up regardless of the bike being warm or hot (There's some carb related things that will change from a cold engine to hot engine)
Electrical issues can be more intermitient (which is why they are loathed by so many people) There are a lot of things electrically speaking that can change from a cold to hot engine.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:39 AM   #21
disston
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The swapping the carbs trick is a good one but before you do that look in the fuel bowls. There is a wire holding the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb, each carb. This is called a bail wire (or maybe it's a bale wire). You push the bale wire with a finger, or a screwdriver handle if it's really tight, to one side, it will only go one way and carefully drop the fuel bowl. If there is water in the gas it will be under the gas and you will be able to see it. The water does not mix with the gas. If only gas in in the bowl you can dump this back in the tank. and continue looking for problems.

You say that you have put new Bosch coils on the bike. Are these the correct 6 volt coils? Where did you get them?

Most parts for Airhead motorcycles are available at some BMW motorcycle dealers. Do you have an Airhead friendly BMW motorcycle dealer near you? Tell us where you live we may be able to suggest somebody or otherwise you will be having to use the postal service and internet ordering.

Start making a list you will be having to make an order soon. Put the rubber tubes from the carbs to the heads on your list. You may end up getting complete gasket kits for the carbs or just a few of the pieces but right now you are taking the float bowls off so look at the gasket on the carb body that the floart bowl contacts.

So far all you have needed in the way of tools is a couple of metric wrenches and a screwdriver. Start a list of the tools you will be needing. You can get an idea of what tools you'll need from watching the tool kit auctions on Ebay but those too kits are always over priced and few of them are complete. You don't need German wrenches to work on your bike but you may pick up a few. Craftsman Tools from Sears will work fine. Common wrenches needed are 8mm, 10mm, 12mm (need two), 13mm, 17mm, 19mm and 22mm. I'm pretty sure you don't ever need a 15mm or a 16mm, I'm not sure about 14mm. There is a use for a 24mm wrench but you may not need it right away.

There are 5 hex key wrenches in the tool kit. Sometimes called Allen wrenches. You need 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 8mm. I really for the life of me don't know what the 3mm one is for but it's in the kit. A metric assortment of Hex Keys will have these sizes and more. You may get by with one of the hex key sets in a holder that keeps the all together and makes it easy to not lose one or two but if you lose any you will lose them all, you know the type I mean. I don't care for those but they are sometimes handy to have and they may be all you find some places.

There is a common convertible screwdriver sold in most hardware stores I like. It has interchangeable bits, two sizes for flat and two sizes for Phillips. These seem to fill the bill I think but I usually have others also.

I hope that gets you started.
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:50 AM   #22
disston
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One more note about Hex Keys. Cheap ones are just that and they will not last. They may also damage fasteners and be in more ways than one counter productive. The German Heyco Hex Keys in the OEM tool kit are a quality item. In fact cheap tools in general are not a good idea. There are cheap brands but quality too so try not to get stuff just based on what it costs. As a general rule Craftsman is OK. Snap On and Mac are the best but they cost too much.
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:49 AM   #23
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Maybe I missed something, but I read, "Installed new ignition." and also, "Haven't done anything about timing." (not exact quotes).

"Close" timing can "work" at low engine speeds and temps, but once things speed up and heat up, not so much.

Not familiar with Enduralast's ignition, does it provide for individual cylinder timing?

I might be way off, but that wouldn't be anything new . . .
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:19 AM   #24
Yachtie OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chollo9 View Post
Maybe I missed something, but I read, "Installed new ignition." and also, "Haven't done anything about timing." (not exact quotes).

"Close" timing can "work" at low engine speeds and temps, but once things speed up and heat up, not so much.

Not familiar with Enduralast's ignition, does it provide for individual cylinder timing?

I might be way off, but that wouldn't be anything new . . .

My friend who installed the Electronic ignition says it did the timing per spec. " I haven't done anything with the carbs" as of yet.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:22 AM   #25
Yachtie OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
The swapping the carbs trick is a good one but before you do that look in the fuel bowls. There is a wire holding the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb, each carb. This is called a bail wire (or maybe it's a bale wire). You push the bale wire with a finger, or a screwdriver handle if it's really tight, to one side, it will only go one way and carefully drop the fuel bowl. If there is water in the gas it will be under the gas and you will be able to see it. The water does not mix with the gas. If only gas in in the bowl you can dump this back in the tank. and continue looking for problems.

You say that you have put new Bosch coils on the bike. Are these the correct 6 volt coils? Where did you get them?

Most parts for Airhead motorcycles are available at some BMW motorcycle dealers. Do you have an Airhead friendly BMW motorcycle dealer near you? Tell us where you live we may be able to suggest somebody or otherwise you will be having to use the postal service and internet ordering.

Start making a list you will be having to make an order soon. Put the rubber tubes from the carbs to the heads on your list. You may end up getting complete gasket kits for the carbs or just a few of the pieces but right now you are taking the float bowls off so look at the gasket on the carb body that the floart bowl contacts.

So far all you have needed in the way of tools is a couple of metric wrenches and a screwdriver. Start a list of the tools you will be needing. You can get an idea of what tools you'll need from watching the tool kit auctions on Ebay but those too kits are always over priced and few of them are complete. You don't need German wrenches to work on your bike but you may pick up a few. Craftsman Tools from Sears will work fine. Common wrenches needed are 8mm, 10mm, 12mm (need two), 13mm, 17mm, 19mm and 22mm. I'm pretty sure you don't ever need a 15mm or a 16mm, I'm not sure about 14mm. There is a use for a 24mm wrench but you may not need it right away.

There are 5 hex key wrenches in the tool kit. Sometimes called Allen wrenches. You need 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 8mm. I really for the life of me don't know what the 3mm one is for but it's in the kit. A metric assortment of Hex Keys will have these sizes and more. You may get by with one of the hex key sets in a holder that keeps the all together and makes it easy to not lose one or two but if you lose any you will lose them all, you know the type I mean. I don't care for those but they are sometimes handy to have and they may be all you find some places.

There is a common convertible screwdriver sold in most hardware stores I like. It has interchangeable bits, two sizes for flat and two sizes for Phillips. These seem to fill the bill I think but I usually have others also.

I hope that gets you started.
yes, new bosch coils from Euroelectric, same place i bought the charging/ignition systems.

Thanks for all the great help! I'm going to do the fuel bowl tonight. If it were water in the fuel wouldnt it be acting up on both cylinders? The problem only exists in the right cylinder. Left seems and acts fine.
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:50 AM   #26
Big Bamboo
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All good advice, but I would consider swapping the carbs left to right a last resort, the valves and timing should be checked first just to establish a baseline before messing with the carbs. The right carb also has the oil from the breather dumped into it, did you compare the spark plugs? Wet, black and oil fouled plugs could cause missing. If the fuel lines are getting old they can also shed small bits of black rubber which can block jets and/or jam intake jets. Lastly, once the basics are covered, you could try slowly adjusting the mixture screw on the bottom of the carb while the bike is running (not the idle adjustment screw on the side of the carb) If the air filters have more or less flow than stock it can affect how much fuel the carb pulls.
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:35 PM   #27
mykill
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Does it idle on both cylinders? Then bog when you accelerate?
I would go back and check everything your sausage fingers touched and double check the settings..
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:13 PM   #28
Yachtie OP
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Does it idle on both cylinders? Then bog when you accelerate?
I would go back and check everything your sausage fingers touched and double check the settings..
I would say the bike idles fine. bogs when you rev/accelerate but once warm its bogs with even the slightest acceleration.

For someone who has never adjusted timing is there a "valve timing for dummies" Thread out there preferably with pics?. Think someone posted one already just haven't had time to look at it yet.
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:20 PM   #29
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yachtie View Post
I would say the bike idles fine. bogs when you rev/accelerate but once warm its bogs with even the slightest acceleration.

For someone who has never adjusted timing is there a "valve timing for dummies" Thread out there preferably with pics?. Think someone posted one already just haven't had time to look at it yet.
Do you have a strobe timing light? They are easier and more accurate than the old bulb and a wire type. If so, hook it to the batteries pos and neg, clip the third wire to the sparkplug wire and aim at the timing hole. Idle should show "S" mark in window, revs to 3000 rpm should show "F" mark centered in window. All this is moot if you have dual plugged heads which require less advance.
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:52 PM   #30
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Cool2 another possibility

Perhaps the plug wire CONNECTOR(s) at the plug?
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