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Old 11-03-2012, 09:15 AM   #1
Steve907AK OP
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New to me 2010 R1200GSA, need help!!!

Greetings to all!! This is my first post on this forum, but I've been reading it for about two months now. It's driving me nuts now that the weather is getting colder. The more I read, the more I realize what I don't know. But there's one thing that's really bothering me....just had my 12K service and 20W/50 was put in my engine and 75W/140 was put in my tranny and final drive. Now I'm no BMW mechanic or anything, but in my earlier years would consider myself somewhat of a gear head. I've built a few small block Chevy engines, transmissions and differentials, in fact, put together vehicles starting with a frame only.
That being said, it appears to me that what the dealer used (had dealer do 12k service for warranty purposes), is not what would make any sense to me.. Why 20W/50 in the engine? This is fall in Alaska. Why 75W/140???
I am really confused. I called BMWNA. They said they can't recommend oil weight, the dealer uses their discretion.
I then called some dealers in the lower 48. They appear to be using 10 or 15W/40 and everyone I talked to appears to be using 75W90 in the final drive.
I need help because I have no problem riding in 25-30 deg weather as long as the streets are clear and dry.
I noticed my engine ticks for 45 seconds or so after turned off in for a bit in these temperatures. It didn't do this when I first changed it a week or so after I bought it in August.

Any good insight out there??
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:43 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve907AK View Post
Greetings to all!! This is my first post on this forum, but I've been reading it for about two months now. It's driving me nuts now that the weather is getting colder. The more I read, the more I realize what I don't know. But there's one thing that's really bothering me....just had my 12K service and 20W/50 was put in my engine and 75W/140 was put in my tranny and final drive. Now I'm no BMW mechanic or anything, but in my earlier years would consider myself somewhat of a gear head. I've built a few small block Chevy engines, transmissions and differentials, in fact, put together vehicles starting with a frame only.
That being said, it appears to me that what the dealer used (had dealer do 12k service for warranty purposes), is not what would make any sense to me.. Why 20W/50 in the engine? This is fall in Alaska. Why 75W/140???
I am really confused. I called BMWNA. They said they can't recommend oil weight, the dealer uses their discretion.
I then called some dealers in the lower 48. They appear to be using 10 or 15W/40 and everyone I talked to appears to be using 75W90 in the final drive.
I need help because I have no problem riding in 25-30 deg weather as long as the streets are clear and dry.
I noticed my engine ticks for 45 seconds or so after turned off in for a bit in these temperatures. It didn't do this when I first changed it a week or so after I bought it in August.

Any good insight out there??
Read the owner's manual......

Were it my bike I would have prefered 10W 40 oil in the engine, however if you look at the chart in your owner's manual I'm betting that 20W 50 oil is okay in the temperature range you can expect to see in Anchorage (That is where BMW recommends oil types for various operating temps). In any case it will not harm the bike.

Transmission spec is 850 ml of 75W 140 or 75W 90 GL5 rated synthetic oil. I would opt for the 75W 140 since it provdes a broader temperature range.

Final drive spec is 180 ml of 75W 90 GL5 synthetic oil for R1200s 05-09. You should again check the owner's manual to see what oil is recommended in your final drive. The 75W 90 oil is recommended for the 05-09 hexheads, but maybe they went to 75W 140 for your year. If you have a vented final drive, then the amount of oil in the FD is likely 230 ml.

The ticking you are hearing is likely the result of cooling metal as the engine, or more likely the exhaust system, cools.

Don't think you have anything to worry about.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:14 PM   #3
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Have never owned a BMW so claim next to zero knowledge of the beasts, but... my shaft drive bikes do fine with 75W-90 synthetic in the final drives year around, in all climates. Likewise, the liquid-cooled ones (except for the KLR) survive very well on a diet of 5W-30 synthetic here in Alaska, 5W-40 synthetic Diesel motor oil when I'm traveling into hot climates. During summer, the KLR gets treated to 15W-50, but no way would I ask it to handle anything heavier than 10W-30 in colder weather. Initial lubricant flow when an engine is first started is critical, as more wear happens in a cold engine than after it has reached full operating temperature. Modern synthetic motor oils have a film strength that is vastly superior to the oils of a few decades ago, and lighter oils protect from wear better than in the past, while also flowing more freely. That is why some auto manufacturers are even recommending 0W-20/30 oils for cold climates.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:53 PM   #4
Steve907AK OP
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Clarification on "ticking"

On my first post I said with the 20W/50 engine oil, the engine "ticks" for about 30 seconds or so after turning off". I MEANT after starting it up after cooling off for a bit. Like the valve train doesn't get oil right away because it's too thick...??
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:12 PM   #5
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I thought boxers sounding starved of oil at start up was normal.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:42 PM   #6
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Steve,
I have an 09 I live in Wasilla and just went riding today with no problems. I run the recommended 20W50 with no problems at all. I have also rode in temps as low as 10 deg without any bike problems at all. Don't worry about it and ride on
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:44 PM   #7
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Mee thinks your shizz is all fugged up! Wheel it to my house and ill give you $50 for salvage.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:21 AM   #8
Steve907AK OP
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Thanks for the help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juvat View Post
Steve,
I have an 09 I live in Wasilla and just went riding today with no problems. I run the recommended 20W50 with no problems at all. I have also rode in temps as low as 10 deg without any bike problems at all. Don't worry about it and ride on
Juvat: Thanks for the input. I'm just going to ride it for now. In fact, I'm thinking about a ride today. I also live in Wasilla. If your interested in a quick trip today shoot me a text or call: 982-6133.
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:58 PM   #9
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Sorry, didn't get the message till just now. I hope you had a chance to get out!
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:24 PM   #10
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Hey Steve!

Those oil specs are what BMW calls for per their maintenance recommendations, however, if you're wanting another type of oil, we're happy to do accommodate!

We've been using 20w50 in the boxers for years, haven't had any issues whatsoever. Same with the final drive stuff.

The ticking on startup is normal, as the bike sits on a sidestand or centerstand, oil drains out of the head into the sump. Takes a few secs for the oil to get pumped back into the head. Totally normal, no cause for concern. If you like I'm happy to put an ear to it if that will help too. After your 12k service, if anything was out of spec it would have been readily apparent.

Your logic is sound regarding oil weights, most of my customers who ride their dirt bikes in the winter use lighter weight oil in the very low temps due to reciprocating drag, but that's an exception and you probably won't be riding your bike when it's below zero.

Anything else please ask away, hope I can help!
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:50 AM   #11
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For the record

The 75-140 is not recommended for R1200 FD's. Apparently under certain circumstances it cannot maintain it's presence under rapid loading like AK chuckholes for example. It is too thick. That said I have run it quite a bit in both R1200's. The official BMW recommended volume has now been reduced to 180cc vs. 220 as well. Most are settling for around 200cc. This is because the dip$*%*$ at BMW got cheap and did not vent the FD until this year, and it becomes a pressure vessel, blowing out seals, and destroying FD units from lack of oil. Yes, it's vented again now, and even has a drain plug too, starting 2008! Cost saving in all the wrong places. I've heard mine pop and release the pressure when I pulled the plug. 65,000 miles though and no FD failures.

Ed
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:57 PM   #12
friar mike
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You know I love my BMW but it is just unbelievable the crap I have to tell customers as I work on these things and I will never own a 1200gs my 1150gs maybe big and heavy but it just doesn't have the problems. I would like to know what the hell happened to BMWs research and development and more over there engineers there is no real world work going on before they sell theses things to the consumers
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friar mike screwed with this post 11-14-2012 at 02:04 PM
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:51 PM   #13
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Oh boy a "1150 vs 1200" thread! Are we in 2005 again?

I've never seen so many people be so happy with this alleged piece of "crap." There were teething problems to work through that every model of every brand has to work through, but on the whole it's a fantastic bike, just as the 1150 was fantastic.

Different strokes for different folks.

And Steve,

Were you able to get sorted out? Again, drop me a line if you need anything!
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:00 PM   #14
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Brendon it is what it is from it ABS to it rear end and it troublesome I work on them I know now the new 800s I just haven't seen them in for so many troubles and stranding riders like the 1200 has. The 1150 has rear end bearing troubles too but nothing like the 1200 and we won't even start on the electronic problems and you know it. Iam not here to bash the 1200 they are loved by lots of riders but facts are facts.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:38 AM   #15
Brendon@TMS
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Those aren't facts, they're your opinions.

Numerical/quantitative evidence and a statistical analysis of events showing a trend that one model has more instances of warranty induced repair would help bolster your claim.

Agree to strongly disagree.
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