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Old 02-25-2014, 06:44 AM   #826
cba191
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Originally Posted by ssevy View Post
Sometimes owning a motorcycle feels like being that plate spinner on the old Ed Sullivan show - just when you get one spinning smoothly, another one is going wobbly and is about to fall
sometimes? I thought it was a constant thing.
I still find it hilarious when people say they are going to get a motorcycle so that they can save money.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:51 AM   #827
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Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
Finally got the bracket finished for the Long Range Extreme LED... A round peg, does indeed fit in a square hole.... Sorta....

Looking Good!
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:55 AM   #828
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Originally Posted by ssevy View Post
Even if you do not need the extra light output, its nice to save the amps for using other gear. That would be my main reason for going to LED headlight replacement. I looked at my 95 Tiger this weekend and I am not sure that I will have enough clearance in the back of the bulb housing and I hate to give up the rubber weather cover.
I thought I saw a photo in the other thread of a Tiger that had a ton of room, for the bulb with the cover, maybe a different year??
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:07 PM   #829
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New Lights.

Just finished mounting the new round Long Range Optimus LED Auxiliary Lights with the IQ-175 dimmer from Darryl - great stuff! Thanks again, Darryl, for the great lights and unparalleled service.

I did not use the hi-beam trigger on the IQ175 but used the programmable wire to have a hi/low beam with the LEDs - nice feature!.


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Old 02-26-2014, 04:15 PM   #830
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Crash tested!

So, I crash tested these lights back in Nov (Hammer Run in NJ)... I was doing about 30mph and hit a tree. Broke my wrist in a few places and damaged my shoulder, but the light that hit the tree is fine (!). (The lights were mounted to my barkbusters.)
I have no idea how the light survived, when you look at the beating the bracket took (and, they are pretty thick metal)...





So, looks like they are pretty tough!
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:46 AM   #831
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Originally Posted by JustRon View Post
So, I crash tested these lights back in Nov (Hammer Run in NJ)... I was doing about 30mph and hit a tree. Broke my wrist in a few places and damaged my shoulder, but the light that hit the tree is fine (!). (The lights were mounted to my barkbusters.)
I have no idea how the light survived, when you look at the beating the bracket took (and, they are pretty thick metal)...





So, looks like they are pretty tough!

Sorry to hear about the wrist and shoulder Ron. Crashing sucks.
Those look like they took one heck of a hit. Purchasing Quality the first time always pays off.
I"ll get you a new mount out today.
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Old 03-02-2014, 12:25 PM   #832
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Long Range Optimus LED Auxilary Light Round on R1200GSA

Mounted the 10 Watt Long Range Optimus LED Auxiliary Light Round on my '10 R1200GSA. I utilized a PIAA 30035 Dual switch, one switch turns the lights on/off, the other hi/lo beam. I liked this switch since it has a green/red indicator light for each button. I ran the lights independent of the bike's hi/lo beam and utilized the IQ175 dimmer.







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Old 03-02-2014, 08:21 PM   #833
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Which of your led lights have an amber cover? I would like to run an amber cover during the day.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:08 AM   #834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arrcrussell View Post
Mounted the 10 Watt Long Range Optimus LED Auxiliary Light Round on my '10 R1200GSA. I utilized a PIAA 30035 Dual switch, one switch turns the lights on/off, the other hi/lo beam. I liked this switch since it has a green/red indicator light for each button. I ran the lights independent of the bike's hi/lo beam and utilized the IQ175 dimmer.








Thank You, That looks really good!
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:09 AM   #835
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Originally Posted by baddrapp View Post
Which of your led lights have an amber cover? I would like to run an amber cover during the day.

Right now the Long Range Extreme is available with Amber covers.

http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/Long-Range-Extreme-LED-Light_p_61.html
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Old 03-04-2014, 04:55 AM   #836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arrcrussell View Post
Mounted the 10 Watt Long Range Optimus LED Auxiliary Light Round on my '10 R1200GSA. I utilized a PIAA 30035 Dual switch, one switch turns the lights on/off, the other hi/lo beam. I liked this switch since it has a green/red indicator light for each button. I ran the lights independent of the bike's hi/lo beam and utilized the IQ175 dimmer.







Would you please explain in a little more detail how you wired this switch in. Can you plug the lights directly into the sockets on the switch? Did you wire the yellow and white wires from the Skene into the switch
Thanks
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:10 AM   #837
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Originally Posted by Trickie Dick View Post
Would you please explain in a little more detail how you wired this switch in. Can you plug the lights directly into the sockets on the switch? Did you wire the yellow and white wires from the Skene into the switch
Thanks
There’s a couple of ways to do it – one without modifying the PIAA switch and one with modifying.

I did not use the plugs from the switch – I removed/cut them and wired on my own terminals.

Without modifying the switch, the power button activates the mode button on/off and the mode button alternates the white and green wires on/off – one is on while the other off and vice versa. Connect the white switch wire to the yellow IQ wire and the green switch wire to the white IQ wire. Program the IQ so the yellow wire is set at your desired low beam % (say 50%) when 12V+ is applied and 0% when not connected and grounded. When the power switch is off, no voltage is applied to the mode button thus the white switch/yellow IQ wire and the green switch/white IQ wire have no voltage thus no lights (IQ defaults to “not connected” program setting). When the power switch is on, the mode button is supplied power and either the green switch/white IQ wire has 12v+ or the white switch/yellow IQ wire has 12v+. If the white switch wire has 12v+ - it powers the yellow IQ wire and the lights are dimmed at 50%. If the green switch wire has 12v+, it powers the white IQ wire (hi beam trigger) and the lights are hi beam. I did not use this configuration.

With modifying the switch. The modification involves removing the back cover off the switch and soldering together two adjacent terminals on the mode switch – this mod makes the white switch wire 12v+ continuously when the power button is on and only the green wire is toggled on/off by the mode button (the alternating green/white on/off is eliminated). Connect the white switch wire to the red IQ wire and the green switch wire to the yellow IQ wire. Program the IQ so the yellow wire is set at your desired hi beam % (100%) when 12V+ is applied and your desired low beam % (50%) when not connected and grounded. When the power switch is off, no voltage is applied to the white switch wire/red IQ wire, thus the IQ is powered off thus no lights. When the power switch is on, the white switch wire/red IQ wire has 12v+ and powers on the IQ. If the mode button is off, the green switch/yellow IQ wire has no voltage and the lights are dimmed at 50%. If the green switch/yellow IQ wire has 12v+ the lights are hi beam. I used this configuration for few reasons, the IQ unit is not powered continuously and is powered off whenever the aux lights are off, the white IQ hi beam trigger wire is not used thus eliminating any accidental reprogramming of the IQ unit when hi beams are flashed and I did not have to run a separate power wire to the IQ unit.
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:35 AM   #838
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Originally Posted by arrcrussell View Post
There’s a couple of ways to do it – one without modifying the PIAA switch and one with modifying.

I did not use the plugs from the switch – I removed/cut them and wired on my own terminals.

Without modifying the switch, the power button activates the mode button on/off and the mode button alternates the white and green wires on/off – one is on while the other off and vice versa. Connect the white switch wire to the yellow IQ wire and the green switch wire to the white IQ wire. Program the IQ so the yellow wire is set at your desired low beam % (say 50%) when 12V+ is applied and 0% when not connected and grounded. When the power switch is off, no voltage is applied to the mode button thus the white switch/yellow IQ wire and the green switch/white IQ wire have no voltage thus no lights (IQ defaults to “not connected” program setting). When the power switch is on, the mode button is supplied power and either the green switch/white IQ wire has 12v+ or the white switch/yellow IQ wire has 12v+. If the white switch wire has 12v+ - it powers the yellow IQ wire and the lights are dimmed at 50%. If the green switch wire has 12v+, it powers the white IQ wire (hi beam trigger) and the lights are hi beam. I did not use this configuration.

With modifying the switch. The modification involves removing the back cover off the switch and soldering together two adjacent terminals on the mode switch – this mod makes the white switch wire 12v+ continuously when the power button is on and only the green wire is toggled on/off by the mode button (the alternating green/white on/off is eliminated). Connect the white switch wire to the red IQ wire and the green switch wire to the yellow IQ wire. Program the IQ so the yellow wire is set at your desired hi beam % (100%) when 12V+ is applied and your desired low beam % (50%) when not connected and grounded. When the power switch is off, no voltage is applied to the white switch wire/red IQ wire, thus the IQ is powered off thus no lights. When the power switch is on, the white switch wire/red IQ wire has 12v+ and powers on the IQ. If the mode button is off, the green switch/yellow IQ wire has no voltage and the lights are dimmed at 50%. If the green switch/yellow IQ wire has 12v+ the lights are hi beam. I used this configuration for few reasons, the IQ unit is not powered continuously and is powered off whenever the aux lights are off, the white IQ hi beam trigger wire is not used thus eliminating any accidental reprogramming of the IQ unit when hi beams are flashed and I did not have to run a separate power wire to the IQ unit.
OK… so are you coming by Durango, CO any time soon?
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Old 03-04-2014, 12:48 PM   #839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arrcrussell View Post
There’s a couple of ways to do it – one without modifying the PIAA switch and one with modifying.

I did not use the plugs from the switch – I removed/cut them and wired on my own terminals.

Without modifying the switch, the power button activates the mode button on/off and the mode button alternates the white and green wires on/off – one is on while the other off and vice versa. Connect the white switch wire to the yellow IQ wire and the green switch wire to the white IQ wire. Program the IQ so the yellow wire is set at your desired low beam % (say 50%) when 12V+ is applied and 0% when not connected and grounded. When the power switch is off, no voltage is applied to the mode button thus the white switch/yellow IQ wire and the green switch/white IQ wire have no voltage thus no lights (IQ defaults to “not connected” program setting). When the power switch is on, the mode button is supplied power and either the green switch/white IQ wire has 12v+ or the white switch/yellow IQ wire has 12v+. If the white switch wire has 12v+ - it powers the yellow IQ wire and the lights are dimmed at 50%. If the green switch wire has 12v+, it powers the white IQ wire (hi beam trigger) and the lights are hi beam. I did not use this configuration.

With modifying the switch. The modification involves removing the back cover off the switch and soldering together two adjacent terminals on the mode switch – this mod makes the white switch wire 12v+ continuously when the power button is on and only the green wire is toggled on/off by the mode button (the alternating green/white on/off is eliminated). Connect the white switch wire to the red IQ wire and the green switch wire to the yellow IQ wire. Program the IQ so the yellow wire is set at your desired hi beam % (100%) when 12V+ is applied and your desired low beam % (50%) when not connected and grounded. When the power switch is off, no voltage is applied to the white switch wire/red IQ wire, thus the IQ is powered off thus no lights. When the power switch is on, the white switch wire/red IQ wire has 12v+ and powers on the IQ. If the mode button is off, the green switch/yellow IQ wire has no voltage and the lights are dimmed at 50%. If the green switch/yellow IQ wire has 12v+ the lights are hi beam. I used this configuration for few reasons, the IQ unit is not powered continuously and is powered off whenever the aux lights are off, the white IQ hi beam trigger wire is not used thus eliminating any accidental reprogramming of the IQ unit when hi beams are flashed and I did not have to run a separate power wire to the IQ unit.
Thanks. I appreciate the explanation I will probably go with option one. Me getting into the switch itself is a good way to screw up a good switch. I did want ask if using this switch in the stock form offers any advantage over a regular waterproof 2 position toggle switch? I understand the switch light to see if it's on or off but I would think one could tell that just by looking at the lights themselves.

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Old 03-04-2014, 02:02 PM   #840
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Originally Posted by Trickie Dick View Post
Thanks. I appreciate the explanation I will probably go with option one. Me getting into the switch itself is a good way to screw up a good switch. I did want ask if using this switch in the stock form offers any advantage over a regular waterproof 2 position toggle switch? I understand the switch light to see if it's on or off but I would think one could tell that just by looking at the lights themselves.
The lights I have are not visible to the rider (except at night of course) so the indicator light is a nice feature. I would imagine the single switch would not offer the ability to have off, lo and hi beam - just on/off or hi/low.

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