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Old 11-08-2012, 09:11 PM   #16
jackd
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No big deal. Just start looking for some of the recent threads on the topic. I just finished reading the November/December edition of Motorcycle Classics magazine - on page 74 there's a blow by blow pictorial article on how to do it to British twins. Just a minor setback - you'll be back on the road in no time.
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:24 PM   #17
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Would something like this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Silverline-Thr...licoil+kit+m12
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:32 PM   #18
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Or even something like this? http://www.timesert.com/html/4212-note.html

I've seen on some threads people have used timeserts.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:14 AM   #19
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Be careful to get the correct size kit. The first one you list above is an M12 x 1.75 thread. It is not the correct thread size. The second thread size you have above is M12 x 1.25 thread. It is the correct size. The second number is the threads per millimeter and they don't interchange.

I do not use TimeSerts. They are extra work because the hole needs to be tapered. I'm a traditional Heli Coil guy. But either system will work.

That Hanson kit looks a bit extensive. Use the Heli Coil brand or Perma Coil. I prefer Heli Coil, their kits have the drill Bit usually. You need 1/2" inserts but the 3/4 ones can probably be cut short. Still you are going to use one insert and maybe some day another, you don't need a kit with 50 inserts.

What ever you get the thread is M12 x 1.25 and 1/2'" long
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:24 AM   #20
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NGK BP7ES and NGK BP7HS or brand equivalent was what was provided to me by SJBMW when they dual plugged my R100 back in the nineties.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:55 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
Be careful to get the correct size kit. The first one you list above is an M12 x 1.75 thread. It is not the correct thread size. The second thread size you have above is M12 x 1.25 thread. It is the correct size. The second number is the threads per millimeter and they don't interchange.

I do not use TimeSerts. They are extra work because the hole needs to be tapered. I'm a traditional Heli Coil guy. But either system will work.

That Hanson kit looks a bit extensive. Use the Heli Coil brand or Perma Coil. I prefer Heli Coil, their kits have the drill Bit usually. You need 1/2" inserts but the 3/4 ones can probably be cut short. Still you are going to use one insert and maybe some day another, you don't need a kit with 50 inserts.

What ever you get the thread is M12 x 1.25 and 1/2'" long
Thanks!!
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:39 AM   #22
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So I found this kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Heli-Coil-5543...oil+m12+x+1.25

And as long as I have a 31/64 drill bit I should be set right? Just need to pick up the inserts.
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:44 AM   #23
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Most helicoil kits that I use already contain the correct drill bit in them. Before you spend your money, why don't you head to somewhere like NAPA and get one of the actual kits in your hands and see what it comes with.
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:57 AM   #24
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That's a good idea from Jackd. The parts people at auto parts stores are sometimes very helpful. The drill bit being extra is not a biggy tho. That is not an uncommon drill size. Usually the Heli Coil brand is the only one that includes the drill bit and you pay a little more for the name too. Spending $40 to get the kit and another 5 or 7 for a bit is really enough for threading a spark plug hole. Realize this is important and you can ruin your day if you mess it up but it is not something that cost a hundred dollars to fix. (unless you gotta buy a drill. You gotta a 3/8 drill?) (I like battery powered these days but have plenty of other options). NAPA stores also have very competative prices. They want you to come back.
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:17 AM   #25
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Heli-Coil kits for spark plugs have a special tap that threads into the standard size plug hole, then cuts the oversize threads for the insert. Unless you have a vertical mill, driling the plug hole would be disastrous.
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:31 AM   #26
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Get the set for sparkplugs. Match the thread pitch on the removed plug to the thread pitch on the tap.

Coat the tap with grease to catch chips. Clean and recoat often. then blow out the chips by cycling the engine with the plug wires shorted on that cylinder.
install coil, and new plug. If you are not good with tools, pay to have it done. There is a feel and technique to this.

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Old 11-11-2012, 04:48 PM   #27
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thanks for all the help guys.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:36 AM   #28
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I use a hotter running plug in the lower plug position of a dual plug setup. The bottom plug seems to collect all the crap in the engine and using a hotter running plug helps to reduce this.

So on my r90/6 I use NGK '6's in the top position and '5's in the bottom.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:09 PM   #29
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I just picked up the Perma Coil M12 x 1.25. It did not come with a drill bit but I have it on hand. My Currently electric drill can't accept the bit. I'm going to see if one of my buddies has one that they'll lend me.

Do you have any recommendation on how to drill straight without removing the head or should I remove it? I was able to get a copy of an article from a magazine that repaired it with the head still on and used a lot of grease to catch the shavings. Also they placed a piece of rag coated in grease inside to catch any that fell through. Also what is the best way to cut the inserts to the correct size?
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:44 PM   #30
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I would suggest removal of the head because, you are not experienced in doing this it will be easier for you to not have to worry about the shavings, doing it with the head on and counting on the grease catching the chips is an iffy thing at best anyway.

Have the head firmly held on a work bench so it won't move when you are working on it.

Have the spark plug hole at an angle that is easy for you to hold the drill at. You will be able to drill this by hand because the drill will want to follow the path of the existing hole but you must put some effort into not trying to mess it up.

Use oil for drilling and tapping. Use enough oil.

You mention already having a proper size drill bit, it should be a sharp bit that doesn't need to be forced into the work.
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