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Old 11-09-2012, 12:03 PM   #16
PlecoLB OP
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The vertical scrapes are apparently from overheating. Surface only.

Previous owner bought the bike 1yr old, and put about 130 000kms on the bike.

But never read the book that said the bike was actually meant for highways and byways.

The bike was never over revved or wheelied and such. But taken into some serious offroad riding.

The only thing I can say are that these bikes are EXTREMELY tough.

Charley and Ewin only scratched the surface.
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Riding a block of flats in the sand is quite fun!
(Previous bike: Kawasaki KLR 650: The Art of Arriving)
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:50 PM   #17
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Wonder if your issue and this one are related http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828497
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:56 PM   #18
CheckerdD
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A couple of years ago Oak Okleshen who is one of the Airheads Club's technical Gurus posted some pictures of similar damage to a high mileage Airhead motor and blamed it on the owner using auto oil instead of motorcycle oil. I don't want to start an oil thread, but over the years a number of wear additives such as zinc have been removed from auto oil to preserve the autos cat converter. I am a bit in a panic because I have been using Mobil 1 15/50 instead of motorcycle grade in my 05. And I have almost as much miles on it as your bike. Hoping I am wrong. Dave
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:05 PM   #19
PlecoLB OP
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The oil story is a huge debate, but this bike ran on bike oil. I use castrol gtx in my autosvand bikes. I shorten the oil cycles depending on how hard I have been riding.

Dont think there is a bad oil out there. But regular and more frequent changes might be needed.

I ride quite a bit in sand tracks and dunes and the bikes and 4x4s work quite a bite harder.
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Riding a block of flats in the sand is quite fun!
(Previous bike: Kawasaki KLR 650: The Art of Arriving)
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:45 PM   #20
ragtoplvr
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Probably from running too long on it's side.

Or those wheelies

Rod
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:44 AM   #21
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlecoLB View Post
Unfortunately the big end bearing turned inside the one conrod.
And both small ends have bald spots. Bmw does not sell the small end bushes separately only complete on conrod.

There are some pics of the small end bearings and conrod wear.
A conrod shop should be able to re-bush the small end and ream it to size. How are the wrist pins?
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Old 11-10-2012, 06:51 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlecoLB View Post
The oil story is a huge debate, but this bike ran on bike oil. I use castrol gtx in my autosvand bikes. I shorten the oil cycles depending on how hard I have been riding.

Dont think there is a bad oil out there. But regular and more frequent changes might be needed.

I ride quite a bit in sand tracks and dunes and the bikes and 4x4s work quite a bite harder.
I do not think your engine damage is due to lack of friction modifiers (ZDDP). Do you know the history of oil change intervals, oil brand and viscosity? Also, how about the filter?

Many boxer owners use Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic auto oil without engine issues. Mobil and Purolator oil filters are popular as well.

I see a lot of wet carbon on pistons and combustion chambers. Any thoughts?
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:30 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
A conrod shop should be able to re-bush the small end and ream it to size. How are the wrist pins?
Wrist pins, pistons and rings all good. Would rather not take a chance on the worn conrods.

Oil pump might be more of an issue.
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Riding a block of flats in the sand is quite fun!
(Previous bike: Kawasaki KLR 650: The Art of Arriving)
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlecoLB View Post
The oil story is a huge debate, but this bike ran on bike oil. I use castrol gtx in my autosvand bikes. I shorten the oil cycles depending on how hard I have been riding.

Dont think there is a bad oil out there. But regular and more frequent changes might be needed.

I ride quite a bit in sand tracks and dunes and the bikes and 4x4s work quite a bite harder.
Just out of interest, do you allow your motor to warm at idle for a time before taking off, or fire up and go????
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:33 PM   #25
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Dont know about previous owner, but I start the bike just before I put my helmet and gloves on.
So it runs for about 2 to 3 mins before I take off.
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Riding a block of flats in the sand is quite fun!
(Previous bike: Kawasaki KLR 650: The Art of Arriving)
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:03 AM   #26
viz
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Methinks to spin a bearing you would have had to have had an interrupted oil supply... And there is scoring on the pump faces. Low oil? Or as you say - motor going while on its side, but it would have had to be revving or been on its side for a period of time to do that - those motors can take a bit... Other thought is water in the oil at some point... Have both bearings been damaged in the same manner?

Just thoughts

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Old 11-11-2012, 07:33 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
A conrod shop should be able to re-bush the small end and ream it to size. How are the wrist pins?
It spun a connecting rod bearing in the rod and cap for some reason or another. Maybe bearing wear from mileage and the bearing got loose and beat itself up enought to get loose and spin. It didn't look like it got hot from oil starvation to me but you never know what happened for an instant at some time. It rattled because it didn't have compression forcing it on the crank but was loose with the vacuum at decel.

In a former life we used to have the big end of connecting rods resized all the time. Engine rebuilders do this as a normal practice to make sure the con rod bearing fits correctly. If you can find the spec for the inside diameter of the rod most amy machine shop should be able to do this for you then new bearings and rings and gaskets and ......

Clean it all several times and then keep it all very clean and good luck with the repair. Congrats on the cojungas to take on the job.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:14 AM   #28
PlecoLB OP
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Bmw does not even stock undersized big ends. They do not rebuild these motors very often.

2 new conrods cost about 500usd. I have found a good source locally for second hand spares, so I will measure and fit a good second hand pair. At worst I will buy a new set. Its just amazing that I might get away under 1000 usd with rebuilding a 100000miles motor. Of course the labour is free which helps a lot.
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Pleco.

Riding a block of flats in the sand is quite fun!
(Previous bike: Kawasaki KLR 650: The Art of Arriving)
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:34 AM   #29
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The previous owner did not maintain that bike. That is some nasty wear which should not happen at that mileage. I use synthetic Mobil 1 10W40 every 10,000 km's and the paranoia over not using "motorcycle oil" is nonsense propaganda planted by the industry so they can make huge profits. Mobli 1, 4.4 liters $ 24.97. Full synthetic "motorcycle oil" $ 50- $100 for the same volume. Those are some expensive additives. Must be gold flakes or screwthemoverium molecules.
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:52 PM   #30
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The so-called motorcycle specific oils that we are told we must use are SG, SH API classification oils which are obsolete for automobile engines.

Also, many of these recommended oils lack friction modifiers inasmuch as most motorcycles share engine oil with the transmission and clutch.

So actually, the later API rated SL, SM auto engine oils are likely a better choice for the boxer engine with its separate dry clutch due to a more robust additive package. The friction modifiers in these energy conserving oils can help reduce wear.

However, this engine looks like there was some debris loose in the lubrication circuit that wore the pump, compromised the high pressure bearing surfaces in the lower end and went on to caused bearings to spin on one journal.

Is there evidence of any oil filter media anywhere inside the engine, oil galleries or oil ports in the crankshaft?

Don't stop looking for the cause of the bearing failures.

Keep us posted.
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