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Old 05-20-2013, 10:32 PM   #361
4play
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
I'll check WB once I get the rear end back together and report back. I suspect mine is probably a bit longer than yours. I ordered a 130 link chain just to be safe

I haven't weight it yet. But I can tell you this. I have lifted that bastard around so many times I can tell you it's pretty darn close to the CBR. Which was 364# wet fully fueled. I suspect this bike will come in at 375# ish.

My one crash bar can't weight more than 1.5 lbs. My tubing weight calc says 15" of DOM tubing weight 0.81 lbs and the two tabs and bolts are probably the remainder of the weight. The front bracket replaced the stock engine mount and I tossed the steel spacer up front in favor of one I made from aluminum. I have the actual bosses that I machined still saved in CAD and can cut them out again quickly on the waterjet if you want some. You'll have to fit the tubing though as I have no way of easily doing that again quickly.
I ordered a 130 chain & wound up removing 3 links with 15/52 sprockets. I just checked my KTM swing arm & it's ~1/2 shorter than my extended Ninja.
I would definately like a set of the plates for the crash bars if when you get around to it. Looking at what you did has me wondering about a forward loop off of that as a skid pan mount & you had mentioned tying your pegs mounts together which could be the rear mount. All of that Versys stuff on mine is pretty stout, but I'm thinking much heavier than necesary. I'm curious about the rear fender/license plate bracket clearance at full compression? It looks good with that stuff on there, mine ate all of that the 1st time I rode it prior to tear down..
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:19 AM   #362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play View Post
I ordered a 130 chain & wound up removing 3 links with 15/52 sprockets. I just checked my KTM swing arm & it's ~1/2 shorter than my extended Ninja.
I would definately like a set of the plates for the crash bars if when you get around to it. Looking at what you did has me wondering about a forward loop off of that as a skid pan mount & you had mentioned tying your pegs mounts together which could be the rear mount. All of that Versys stuff on mine is pretty stout, but I'm thinking much heavier than necesary. I'm curious about the rear fender/license plate bracket clearance at full compression? It looks good with that stuff on there, mine ate all of that the 1st time I rode it prior to tear down..
Let me finish the other side and then I'll make you up a set of plates. Haven't even looked the other side for crash bars yet.

License plate is good at full compression, I checked that by removing the shock and dropping it all the way down.

My rearsets aren't tied together with a straight tube, I triangulated them to the lower crossmember for lateral stability and they are rock solid. I didn't want to go across because of the exhaust and lack of rigidity. I do plan on mounting a lightweight skidplate and tying it into the mounts I'm making.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:27 AM   #363
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Ah sorry mate I didn't notice that the throttle body's were on.
Shows how much attention I was paying.

Your bit far away now, when do you reckon it'll be rideable?
I plan to start the engine today.

The swingarm bearings will hold up buttoning up the rear end for a week.

The real wait is the custom cables from Motion Pro. Last I spoke to them they wanted me to send in the stock Ninja throttle tube and clutch perch so they could get the stickout correct and it would be about two weeks from when they got them. And that was about a week ago.

So I'd say 2 weeks as a realistic timeframe. Right now I'm doing little stuff and basically starting reassembly. The bike won't be finished by any means, but I intend to ride it all summer in it's beta version so I can make changes if I need to.

Honestly though, being that I've had two other bikes to make a lot of mistakes with, I feel that the major componentry on this bike will be solid and that I won't be making many changes other than to reweld something somewhere else. Hopefully I didn't screw things up badly and realize I have a problem, there isn't a lot of room on that bike for a major redo
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:56 AM   #364
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A man with your "mad skillz, yo!" can easily make cables.

I have a stash of bicycle brake cable, and a bunch of old throttle cables lying around for the hardware. The hardware isn't even all that hard to make from scratch, although I do like to do it in stainless, which is a mild pita to cut threads. The factory stuff always seems to be zinc plated.

Anyway, for the ball ends, I have a length of 1/4" brass bar stock which I bought out of the metal stocks bin at Home Depot. I chuck it in the lathe and turn it to the correct diameter, and part it off. A 'best practice' is to start parting, then use a fine file to break the edges slightly before finishing the parting -- that will make them a lot easier to install. Then I cross-drill it ever so slightly larger than the cable, and solder it on to the cable.

The technology that makes this possible is the "solder pot" --- I use a copper end cap plumbing fitting filled with solder. I sit it on a fire brick (or your welding table), and heat it with a propane torch until the solder melts. Then dip the cable and ball into acid flux, then the solder pot. Hold it in the molten solder until you see solder creep up the cable, otherwise you will get a cold joint that will fail.

A good tip is to wrap the cable in masking tape before you cut it. Slide the ball end onto the cable, then clean with acetone, and flare out the ends of the cable so the ball doesn't fall off when you solder it. Clean up the new ball end on a belt sander or with a dremel tool. Done.

Easy Peasy!!
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:04 PM   #365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
The real wait is the custom cables from Motion Pro.
the longer OEM Versys cables are still too short? they worked with the Versys bar riser and ATV highs.



clutch cable, Ninja top, Versys bottom. throttle cable sets are longer too.

jdrocks screwed with this post 05-21-2013 at 12:20 PM
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:05 PM   #366
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Per JDrocks I used Versys cables, plenty of length on those
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:43 PM   #367
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I didn't even check the Versys cables because of the custom nature. I wanted to get rid of the factory controls so I went to a KTM 950 throttle tube which would necessitate new custom ends anyways. I had them use the factory cables for parts +8". I relocated my kill switch and starter button to the HDB plate.

The clutch cable I used a MSR clutch perch which doesn't match either. All in all the MP stuff isn't bad $$. It's about $40/cable so I'm guessing the bill will be about $150? Not bad to focus my efforts elsewhere plus their cables are really nice. I tried to make my own last project and they came out like donkey dick.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:32 AM   #368
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Took the powdercoating class last night so now I'm waiting on the powder supposed to be here today.

I did get some work on the other crash bar on the clutch side. Think it will work out well. I need to find a way to tie them together. I used the same plate mounts as I showed on the other side but the actual bar dips down much lower due to stator cover location.

Foam came, I think I have enough



Bought some quick disconnects so I can quickly remove the tank

http://www.colder.com/Tabid/72/PartF.../Products.aspx
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:44 AM   #369
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Today was a powder coating day. It's my first time so this is all new. I took a 2 hours class 2 nights ago and watched a bunch of youtube videos so I'm an expert right?

Started off with some industrial degreaser the stuff you aren't supposed to use on aluminum because it etches.



The I used EZ OFF oven cleaner (lye) in case there was anodizing



Cleaned thoroughly and then it went into the oven for a degassing session. I read that cast aluminum parts need to be degassed which basically means you up the temp 25% over the baking temp, so I went to 500 degrees for the degassing, it's supposed to bake at 380 for 23 minutes.



Nice



Then it went back into the sandblaster to clean anything else off, then degreased again and back in the oven to dry. It's now cooling off and I will mask the surfaces and shoot it.

I'm using Harley Davidson textured black which is a matte wrinkle finish. I tested some panels of aluminum and it comes out awesome. It feels like the rough black on a keyboard for example. Here's my test piece with one coat



The booth



Hopefully it comes out well with all the effort put into it. Update when it comes out of the oven
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:24 AM   #370
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I assume that is at Tech Shop?

That's so cool they have that gear. Neither of our local locations have powder coating.

I did find a local vendor that seems to do pretty good work, and is reasonably priced. I had a couple of luggage racks coated, I'll post pix when I get them installed.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:32 AM   #371
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I assume that is at Tech Shop?

That's so cool they have that gear. Neither of our local locations have powder coating.

I did find a local vendor that seems to do pretty good work, and is reasonably priced. I had a couple of luggage racks coated, I'll post pix when I get them installed.
Yep, tech shop. I had a minor scare. That big oven has a timer and it shut the elements right after I put the part in. It cooled down to 325 before I caught it. It's back above 400 now. The actual part temp is only 330 so I think I'm alright. I called the powder supplier and they said to start the 23 minute countdown when the part temp hits 380. Hopefully I didn't ruin a swingarm.

Tech shop has been awesome I have had a blast here for the last couple weeks working on this bike. All the tools, all the space, it's fantastic. The powdercoating setup is pretty awesome.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:29 PM   #372
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The swinger with powder on it



I had a bit of a scare when the oven timer shut the oven off just as I put the part in. By the time I realized it, the oven temp had dropped to 325. I cranked it back up and started frantically calling the powder supplier to ask for advice. They explained that the PART temp needs to be 380, not the oven temp. So I cranked the oven to 425, used an infrared thermometer to check the part and started the countdown timer once I hit 380.

Out of the oven and cooling



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Old 05-23-2013, 11:40 PM   #373
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Looks sweet!

That's one shiny ironworker in the background. They only look like that for a couple of weeks...
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:54 AM   #374
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Looks sweet!

That's one shiny ironworker in the background. They only look like that for a couple of weeks...


Thanks, I think I'm the only one who has ever used it. And I used the hydraulics aux to power the tubing bender
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:32 PM   #375
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Installed the bearings in the shock and swingarm. What a pain in the ass. Then I powdercoated the bearing spacer that goes in between the swingarm and installed the whole deal.

I also rejiggered the chain guide since the chain is moved outboard 3/8" or so. It took 124 links I think, can't remember exactly. I also need to redrill the holes for the mudguard I was off by an inch



Clutch side crashbar as it stands. It will be getting further work done



Current state. For some reason it looks short in length and reall tall, I think that's the the angle of the shot and it's also jacked up on the stand. In person sitting in it's weight it's actually nicely proportioned.

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